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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHClutch went, told not to replace RMS?
Leading reported evidence
Install under warranty too
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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0
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
At that same time, RMS 999 113 490 40 was installed under warranty too....
Leading evidence: 'Install under warranty too' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Install under warranty too' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
By way of reference my 02 Boxster's RMS was replaced sometime in IIRC July of 2002 with around 25K miles on the car.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Here is it August of 2012 -- 10 years after it was replaced -- and the RMS is oil tight yet.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I have records of the clutch being changed on my car at 13 000km (under warranty?!).
Replace ims (pelican parts one...$165.00) and the aos as well
Suggestion or failed attempt
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Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
My clutch also went at around 60K.....Ahmet (Rennlist member) did the work for me.......we left the RMS and IMS alone.....if the transmission needs to be removed again, I will change the IMS (pelican parts one...$165.00) and the AOS as well.....
Replace ims (pelican parts one...$165.00) and the aos as well
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion
My clutch also went at around 60K.....Ahmet (Rennlist member) did the work for me.......we left the RMS and IMS alone.....if the transmission needs to be removed again, I will change the IMS (pelican parts one...$165.00) and the AOS as well.....
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
16 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261026T135432Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
My clutch went at 62,000 miles. Is that typical?
Anyway, I called my shop and they said that they'll only replace the seal if it's leaking. If it's not he says it's better to leave it alone.
Is that right?
Even though it may not be leaking, the RMS from 2003 is not the same as the one that is sold in 2012 (the part number has been superseeded to an updated 997 seal if I am not mistaken). I would definetely have it changed while they're in there.
Off topic: what suspension are you running? I like the way your car sits!
Clutch wear varies greatly by driving style/use, changed mine at 49k, I am not the original owner though. I would change the rms, it is cheap and they are already in there. As mentioned, there is a newer part and it would be a real bummer if it starts to leak in a month. May also consider the AOS, easy job with the tranny out. I had all this done, plus the LN Engineering IMS bearing and trans oil replacement a few months ago.
Generally, the rule is it ain't broke don't fix it. Another is let sleeping dogs alone.
But of course it is up to you. You are always free to thank the shop for the advice and elect to have the seal replaced.
By way of reference my 02 Boxster's RMS was replaced sometime in IIRC July of 2002 with around 25K miles on the car.
Here is it August of 2012 -- 10 years after it was replaced -- and the RMS is oil tight yet. Ten years later and oh about 232K miles later...
Sincerely,
Macster.
I'm thinking if they have the trans out and the car in a million pieces, replace the RMS.
EDoyle, not sure what suspension is in there. It's the way it was when I bought it about 2 years ago.
My clutch also went at 62k, so yes I would say it is typical. I had my indy also do the L&N IMS and RMS while they were in there because it does not add any additional labor costs and helps me sleep better.
This is what I had found:
OLD RMS: 999 113 490 40
NEW RMS: 997 101 212 01
I have records of the clutch being changed on my car at 13 000km (under warranty?!). At that same time, RMS 999 113 490 40 was installed under warranty too.... this is back in 2003. If ever the transmission comes out I would definetly install the new RMS which is ~$30 at the dealer.
My clutch also went at around 60K.....Ahmet (Rennlist member) did the work for me.......we left the RMS and IMS alone.....if the transmission needs to be removed again, I will change the IMS (pelican parts one...$165.00) and the AOS as well.....
To be honest, that decision seems backasswards to me. Leaving the RMS alone if not leaking I get, though the newer seals are better. A leaking RMS never killed an M96 engine. But to my mind, swapping in the LN bearing is a no-brainier while you have the cases apart. It's another couple of hours labor and $500 in parts to potentially avoid a major engine failure.
you can get it done while you are in there for the Clutch.... I would not push my clients to do the RMS/IMS work... But, strongly suggest it! You can save a bucket full of labor by working on the 3 items together.
Big +1 The IMS bearing is the wrong place to be cheap..... If the RMS is bone dry leave it alone but you have no idea what is going on with the IMS bearing.
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