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YOUR RESEARCHLower Control Arm DIY
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Adjust adjustable wrench tight enough against the nut
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I just carefully adjusted the adjustable wrench tight enough against the nut.
Leading evidence: 'Adjust adjustable wrench tight enough against the nut' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust adjustable wrench tight enough against the nut' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
EDIT: Now that I've finished replacing the two rear LCAs, the Torx key was not necessary, because the tapered fit prevents the threaded shaft of the installed ball joint from turning while loosening the nylon-lock nut, and you can raise the ball joint of the new LCA with a padded floor jack into the tapered fit receptacle so again the threaded stud doesn't turn when the new nylon lock-nut is being tightened.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I replaced the arm w/ a rebuilt one from vertex purchased off of ebay for $149 shipping included.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The nice thing about this arm is that the ball joint can be replaced easily when I hit 180K miles.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
EDIT: Now that I've finished replacing the two rear LCAs, the Torx key was not necessary, because the tapered fit prevents the threaded shaft of the installed ball joint from turning while loosening the nylon-lock nut, and you can raise the ball joint of the new LCA with a padded floor jack into the tapered fit receptacle so again the threaded stud doesn't turn when the new nylon lock-nut is being tightened.
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I just completed replacing my squeaking, groaning lower control arm (Porsche part #996 341 053 16). The arm has a non-replaceable ball joint that just wore out after 90K miles. No sense in recreating the wheel- see here for a DIY write up-
kevingosselin.blogspot.com/2009/08/boxster-control-arm-replacment-in-total.html
A few notes- this is a pretty easy DIY, I used a 19mm, 18mm and 17mm open end wrench, a 18 mm socket, vice grips and a NAPA universal ball joint separator (part # 3916). I used the vice grips to hold the bolt head while turning the nut w/ the wrench/socket. I replaced the arm w/ a rebuilt one from vertex purchased off of ebay for $149 shipping included. The nice thing about this arm is that the ball joint can be replaced easily when I hit 180K miles. The torque specs are 56 ball joint, 74 chassis, 118 diagonal (all ft/lbs) 118 seemed way too much and I used 96 instead. I do not see how a torque wrench could fit in the space for the ball joint and chassis bolts so I just got them nice and tight. The diagonal nut is easy to get the wrench on.
Taking it easy and savoring every moment it took me 2 hours. I should get the car aligned but there were no shakes or shimmys on the road test. I will keep an eye on it.
This ball joint wearing out and making noise seems to be a common problem as the mileage starts to accumulate on our cars. Fortunately it is an easy and sort of inexpensive DIY
Looking at doing the same thing but with the GT3 arms for next weekends DE, glad to know it's a 2 hr job. Front sway bar going in at the same time. Rear sway bar went in last night as I needed something to do.
Interesting point about the replaceable ball joint in the rebuilt unit. I went with the GT3, but that's a nice feature.
You should get the alignment done. My camber was still fine after doing the job but the toe was way off. That's the sort of thing you might not feel, but will cost you pair of tires quickly.
-Shawn
Also need 21mm socket, which I didn't have in my tool set, neither do I have 18mm socket or wrench, these sizes are uncommon and are skipped in my tool set.....
The upside is local hardware store chain has wrench set on sale for 60% off this week.
In that case I should also mention long L-shaped Torx T-40 Key to hold the ball joint stud from turning while the nut is being loosened or tightened.
EDIT: Now that I've finished replacing the two rear LCAs, the Torx key was not necessary, because the tapered fit prevents the threaded shaft of the installed ball joint from turning while loosening the nylon-lock nut, and you can raise the ball joint of the new LCA with a padded floor jack into the tapered fit receptacle so again the threaded stud doesn't turn when the new nylon lock-nut is being tightened.
FYI the drive shafts are in the way of easy access to the ball joint nut, you will need a long open/box end wrench and lots of time to loosen this nut on each side.
That is a good point about the poly. I only ordered a pair for the front, I may order another set for the rear. And then see about poly. Not sure.
Glad you had a good time at MSR. The 3.1 combines the flowing relatively flat 1.7 with the chaotic, blind corner, hilly, switchback 1.3 into a fun course. I honestly like ECR as much, but will not go back until they repave. COTA is just too much money for me. If you want a wild ride, you must do the day trip to VIR or Road Atlanta. Those two tracks make MSR seem simple and easy. If you have even more time, go out to the Glen. Love those three tracks, just don't have the time to drive out to them since I now live in Tx.
Everyone that puts the polyurethane bushings into any suspension component should first learn how these things actually work and, why using them is not really a good idea in a suspension part that was not built to have a urethane bearing in it (after all, that's exactly what they are).
Never on a street car. Those joints are not meant for the abuse of daily or even street driving. Just because something is used in racing, doesn't mean it will do well in street use.
Outside of perhaps winter usage, I (and I'm sure many others) strongly disagree. I run them at all 4 corners with great results, besides cost I don't see any downside. The positive benefits are great
Cheers,
Those joints are not protect from the environment and will wear out a lot faster than regular ball joints. That's the main reason they are only recommended for track use.
Not true, you can either get weather-sealed/'booted', which are about equally as protected as a typical balljoint...yes you can get 'open' style joints and they would be a poor choice for poor weather/dirty-road street cars
No worries at all
Even the heim's (such as toe-links or dogbones for those wondering) you can get with boots, although I'm sure they still won't last as long as factory stock...but it's worth it!
I will tell you my secret that has saved me many headaches eversince I discovered it.
You can buy these at many tool places like HF and such. Make sure you get the billet version as the cast version is weak and will break on you.
My tool is a small sledge hammer, the ball joint stud is just slight taper fit, I loosen the nut by 1/4", and give the casting the threaded stud fit into a couple of smart, but not abusive whacks, the taper fit will pop loose, I've used this trick over several different cars, as well as my own 996 just over a month ago, works like a charm.
This is how I used to do it until it no longer worked on some cars with good amount of corrosion. Tried the pickle fork route as well as air chisel hammer w/pickle fork attachment. Finally discovered this tool and it has never failed me and worked on the first try. Jobs that used to take me 10-30min of cursing and swearing only take under 5 min now.
Just an update. Finally getting around to installing my control arms. It will take me a few days with this Tx heat. (It is 10pm and still 90+ degrees...outside, my garage is probably high 90's. I think I will work on this stuff in the AM from now on)
Just a tip, I bought this tool and I loosen the control arm ball joint nut and bring it to the top of the ball joint so it is flush. Then I use this tool sort of upside down. The single arm is on the nut/bolt and NOT on the underside of the control arm. Few little cranks with a socket wrench and it pops out REALLY easy. It is basically pushing the bolt down. I tried it the other way (single arm under neath and using the tool as sort of a pry bar.... didn't work.). If you already knew this, then it is a new one for me.
The single arm pushes on the threaded stud, is that what you meant?
The U-shape portion should fit around the LCA bushing and over the casting the tapered LCA bushing body fits into, the U-shape end and the single arm ends squeeze together when the threaded stud of the tool turns to pop loose the tapered LCA bushing.
Yes, this is what I meant.
Tip #2=> The bolt by the chassis can slide all the way out and then down. There is a hidden hole there to get the bolt fully out. To replace the bolt just do the reverse. You cannot angle it in.
Tip#3=> I know this is against all of "mechanic" best practice, but I didn't buy a 21mm or the 18mm. I just held the nuts in place with an adjustable wrench and my socket wrench on the bolt side. I just carefully adjusted the adjustable wrench tight enough against the nut. You don't need it to break the bolts loose, just need it to keep the nut from spinning once you break it loose. Note: Everything is back on the car, just hand tight, if I cannot get sufficient torque with the adjustable, I will buy the correct tools.
"Tip#3=> I know this is against all of "mechanic" best practice, but I didn't buy a 21mm or the 18mm. I just held the nuts in place with an adjustable wrench and my socket wrench on the bolt side. I just carefully adjusted the adjustable wrench tight enough against the nut. You don't need it to break the bolts loose, just need it to keep the nut from spinning once you break it loose. Note: Everything is back on the car, just hand tight, if I cannot get sufficient torque with the adjustable, I will buy the correct tools."
Hey, if it works/enables you to complete the job without damaging anything (including yourself) it is "the correct tool". This being said, I'm not sure I understand "sufficient torque"... AFAIK the suspension components should all be torqued to "specific" #'s... as opposed to "sufficient" #'s...
Done. Passenger side took about 15-20 min (obviously with car up on stands and wheel off already). The headlight sensor on the driver side took me for a loop. Didn't do my research enough to figure out what that was before tackling this DIY. It was simple thing, but just didn't know what it was at first.
If I had to do this again, this would be an hour job total. I wish the coil packs were this easy, that took me forever because couldn't get my hands in there.
Your URO bushing will probably suffer a premature wear in the long run as they tend to use substandard rubber. Not as bad though as using URO branded coolant hoses. Ask me how I know...
Replaced my front lower control arms today. When turning and going over bumps the creaking and groaning was really bad. Seems to be entirely gone now. I thought I was also getting creaking and groaning in the rear but did not heat it on the test drive I just took. If I start to hear it I will also replace ethe rears.
I bought the Meyle controls arms on Amazon for $100.57@ including shipping. The Porsche OEM list for about $750@, TRW seem to go for $400-$500@ on line (by the way the ones off my car, which I have had since 2000 and 4,000 miles, were stamped TRW and I am sure they were the originals) and I saw URO's for around $70@. I read a lot about URO's failing pretty quickly so I spent the extra on the Meyle. I figure even if they don't last as long for $100@ I can replace them 4-7 times. Easy job, maybe an hour or so on each side.
Most commonly, yes. There are also the Vertex/EPS arms with replaceable ball joint (this is the part that actually fails/gets squeaky) for around $150 Ea. I went with these, as well as the wishbones with the urethane bushings. They seem well made. Who knows if I'll ever need to replace them or the ball joints again, but it seemed like a good idea...
Seemed "similar" to OEM, but what can I really tell?
For the stupid low closeout price, it was worth the attempt. The front of my car does make less noise now when going over a big bump slowly. When I do a track event, I'll see if I feel any difference. Before, it felt like one of the front wheels had a slight shake (like the front of a broken shopping cart wheel, but not as pronounced).
For these odd tool sizes I use standard tools that seem to fit tighter...I will have to document them, but my most used box end wrenches are 5/8, 11/32, and 3/4. The 11/32 fits better than 18mm and one of the others is used in place of 16.5mm. Why do tool sets leave these out?(and also the 21mm)
I replaced my right side with one from eEuroparts.com for $81. The quality seems good. Now I notice my left side is creaking so I will do the left side next. I will document the wrench sizes I used (the standard sizes). I know it won't matter to you guys who go full bore professional, but guys like me who carry an all-purpose tool bag--it's a way to keep it lighter. Keep as much tools as you need without waste and for as many jobs and emergencies you can think of.
Seems like a good idea if you plan to keep the car long term. So does anyone know if the ball joint Vertex use is generic or a stock Porsche part?
http://www.vertexauto.com/showitem.a...nt%20Or%20Rear
Vertex identifies the replaceable ball joint as :Part No: 99634100100
http://www.vertexauto.com/showitem.a...0%26%20Boxster
it/they look just like the stock arms - in fact I think I remember that they had the Porsche part #s on them. They also take a core charge until you send your old arms back to them, so yes I'd say that the arm itself is the Porsche part (in at least some cases). Since Porsch doesn't sell the ball joint itself, I would think that it's a part that Vertex has developed for the purpose of rebuilding the arms (which Porsche says can't or shouldn't be done).
Vertex would pay for the tooling and minimum order for a run of totally custom ball joints ?
More likely it is a stock/slightly modified Ball Joint from another vehicle.- which is great - but which vehicle?
I was hoping someone would recognize the part from the enlarged photo linked here ?
http://www.vertexauto.com/UserData/I...rge/279386.jpg
I am looking to replace Control Arms components on my 2000 C2. Were you happy with the CA from Rock Auto? If so, which brand did you purchase? Trying to avoid the cost of genuine Porsche parts but don't want to compromise quality. Suggestions?
your two options are TRW and Meyle. both OE manufactures (meaning you buy the same part as the OEM minus the Porsche logo).
i couldn't find a good price on the TRW, so i went with the Meyle, but they should both be the same as the OEM.
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