Battery dead, hood won't pop with jumper

I've had to pop the hood with a jumper before without issues. However, now the hood won't open even with a fully charged jumper connected to the fuse block and a ground. Anyone experience this??? Thanks.

is the fuse blown? so the doors are open, battery dead and you want to open the trunk to charge the battery - right? my guess is the central locking system has it locked down and there is no power at that circuit to release it.

Yes, that is correct. I haven't thought of the fuse since I just drove it a few days ago... do you know which one to check? Thanks.

my book says "the fuse plan is located inside of the lid" I assume that is the fuse cover lid

Yeah, let's hope it's not the hood lid!

MY and model please... did you leave the key in the lock?...RTFM...

MKI's have a cable to open the hood....no "donor battery" required I dont have that page in my book... or a glove box ALSO I think the OP is doing the "jumper" thing... hense the title "won't pop with jumper "

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Ummm...he didn't give MY or model and he said he has used the fuse box hookup to open the lid before???? All of the 996s have a cable to unlock (under the passenger side wheel well). The reason it may not be opening this time is he forgot to leave the key (with immobilizer function) in the door lock....not sure what you are saying....I know what the OP is saying...I think...LOL BTW, what fuse do you speak of? I don't know one for the lid....

so the immobilizer went to sleep and the jumper wont open the hood? no wonder those damn keys cost $500!! I dont know of any fuse, just thought it made sense to check them

996, 2002 door is open <I don't lock the doors> battery is dead and can't pop the hood per Porsche instruction to jump with a "donor" battery between fuse block and ground.

I have a 99 and my battery died once with the doors unlocked. I attached a battery charger to a location in the engine bay and the hood opened.

OK wait is the hood opening via electrical means "standard" or an option? My car doesnt have ANY means I have ever found of opening the hood via anything other than pulling on the lever (also 99') aka a cable release

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Is the key in the door lock when you try it? It has nothing to do with the door being locked...it is the immobilizer won't let you unlock the lid without the key in the lock...make sense?

Engin lid won't open either. Key opener doesn't work as well... I have a fully charged portable battery. AArrrrrrrrgggggggggggggggggggggg.

Sorry, but I can't tell from your repsonse.... did you try the jump at the fuse box with the key in the door ?time to use the manual cable under the front passenger side wheel well...perhaps your latch mechanism is in need of adjustment.

Yes, I tried it with the key in the door...

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Where did you attach the battery charger in the engine bay?

Could something be wrong with the donor battery? like dead? or with the battery charger? getting too much resistance ,so not going to charge mode

Are you pushing the button on the key? Maybe the key battery is dead/low And if you "jump" it does that supply power to anything else that would indicate power (ie radio, lights?)

Can the Porsche battery conditioner (the one that plugs into the lighter) get enough charge into a dead battery to open the hood? (Never m ind... I tried it .... the answer is yes. After about 4 hours I was able to open the hood.)

i got the same problem tried to pop the hood using a battery, but forget to put the key on the door, so it didn't work. now i tried a few more times with the key on the door. no response at all. note, i didn't lock my car, that's why it drained the battery. but the red alarm light was still blinking before i tried to pop the hood. now the red light not blinking even i connect a fully charged battery through the fuse box. any thoughts? did the security system lock itself up?

man, anyone just call a porsche dealer for halp?

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The cable release is in the engine bay. Hood release is electric on my car. The bolt that holds the air filter assembly (near the locking mechanism) is what I use for the ground, and there is a positive cable connection next to the power steering reservoir. If you look at your manual (for a '99) on page 144, you can see the box with the "+" on it. I have a 1 amp charger, so it took about 30 minutes to get enough power to open the hood.

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I just found out that my battery is dead. The car has been sitting in carage without doors locked for about two weeks. Could somebody confirm that the reason for battery draining is that the doors were unlocked? If that really is the reason, what causes the battery to drain when the doors are not locked?

If the battery is dead the alarm still retains the alarm status but it does not function to sound an alarm. So it might be that after the battery gets up in charge the key needs to be cycled in the ignition to cancel the car being locked down since the battery went low enough to get the alarm to figure shut things down. I hope that's all it is. For the fob not working it might be the same case of the ignition needing cycling to wake the system up. After 5 days I believe the remote sensor for the alarm is shut down to save battery power. The owners manual says recharge every 2-3 weeks if not using the car and it also says every 3 months. One big thing it says is don't rapid charge the battery.

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Maybe you found the short that drained the battery?

I left the key inside my Porsche 996 C-2 (04) and after few days the battery went dead, unable to start the car. I tried to follow the procedure in the manual to open the trunk (by connecting doner battery cable to the terminal in the fuse box etc.) without success. However I managed to open the trunk using emergency trunk release cable located inside the left tail light. The emergency release cable was stuff inside the tail light. I could see through the cable gap. I pulled it and the truck pop open.

OK, so my battery was 100% dead this morning (and for some reason my windows had rolled half way down). I've jumped it before so I know the procedure of connecting to the fuse box to be able to pop the engine hood, etc... I left the key in the door and everything, but the hood release still does nothing...??? As of 6 months ago my FOB doesn't work for remotely locking/unlocking the doors (got it wet). I wonder if that's part of the issue? Does anyone know if you need a working FOB in order for this to work? Anyone know why the windows would have rolled half way down on their own?

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"..jumped it before.." "..connecting to the fuse box.." Specific point, fuse, fuse outflow end? I seem to remember you must remove a specific fuse and "jump", attach, to the fuse holder load side....

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Only applies to MK II. Please see this link http://perryandcoblog.com/2009/11/17...hood-solution/

My Porsche is 2009 911 Carrera S, had 40K service in July,did not try to open luggage compartment lid until two weeks ago and it will not open even though Porsche battery is fully charged! HELP! Does my car have an emergency cable under passenger wheel we'll? Does it require me to place car key in driver door lock? Phil.

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Have you tried the steps in the link above?

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That's what you've got to Love about these cars, it's NEVER that Simple!

Just a bump and a little help advice with 996 GT2s. The hood would not open with the fuse box relay override (red stick) with jumper cables. (I left the key in the ignition for a week. Ooops) Luckily one can see the manual pull cable through the front rad cooling slits. There is a hole in the black shroud ( right above the round hole for the tow hook eye) where you can just see the thin silver cable. I used a metal fish tape with a hooked end ( a bent coat hook might work) to pull it out enough to grasp the cable and pull it with a needle nosed pliers. Recharging the battery now. I hope the immobiliser is not going to be problematic. God I long for the old "analog" 911s.

Your immobilizer should be fine but you may want to keep an eye on the battery. If it's been completely discharged for some time, it may never recover.

i had a similar problem. The battery went kaput. giving the Red tab in the fuse box juice from another battery did not help either. I removed the wheel and the inside cowl trying to locate the steel cable to release the hood lock. For some reason i could not find it. What i did alternatively was that i left the juice battery connected to the red tab in the fuse box with a earthing connected to the door hinge for about 30 minutes and retried. BINGO.. the hood open switch worked and i could manage to open the hood. Phew.... i have ordered a CTek Trickle charger to keep the battery in the pink of health.

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Wow, I know we're powerful, but kudos to the earthling for making it work! Have you seen the movie "Independence Day"? A new sequel is coming out in a couple of weeks.

I have a 2002 c2, I SIMPLY CAN'T F$#@%^&ING BELIEVE an $80,000 car doesn't have a manual cable to release the front and rear trunk lids. Porsche, you put the BATTERY in the front trunk, then you design a front trunk that CANNOT be opened when THE BATTERY IS DEAD from inside the car with a simple pull of a lever like every single F$#@%^ING CAR EVER MADE SINCE THE BEGINNING OF TIME? Seriously, how dumb is that? I know there is a procedure that involves keys, and spare batteries, and fuses, and two priests, and animal sacrifice. Or I can take off a wheel and then a wheel liner to find a cable ....... to open the front truck? We are talking about the trunk right? WHERE THE F$#@%^ING BATTERY IS! You couldn't spend $12 total in parts on an $80,000 car to run a wire 8 feet? Rant over, that is all.

....it is lighter than running a steal cable and allows for a more "elegant" switch feel. The Dodge Viper started this with electronic latch releases for its doors on the very first gen cars. At least your Porsche didn't KILL you like this Corvette killed its owner due to the same design issue. http://www.nydailynews.com/news/nati...icle-1.2253934 This is one reason why I like cars built before about 1995. The latest BMWs and other such "High End" cars have all sorts of stupid nannies that don't allow you to open doors in gear and such.

I just read the above article about the 2007 corvette and I sit here simply STUNNED that you cannot manually open the door of a 2007 corvette FROM INSIDE THE CAR (unless you happen to remember some secret procedure). I hope Chevrolet was sued and paid out hundreds of millions of dollars but of course that didn't happen.

This is sort of an old thread and common problem. Porsche did provide a manual release cable but made it difficult to use. If you have any 996 please take the advice of many and opportunity NOW to locate and relocate the trunk release cable behind the front bumper. It really amounts to a 10 minute job and can save hours, if not days, of frustration. If you have not done this..JUST DO IT NOW!

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I agree every car, regardless of how sophisticated, should have manual door latches inside. However, unless there was something unique about the 2007 Corvette's targa top, the owner could have manually opened the top to save his life. All he would have had to do is pull out the two latches on the driver and passenger side and then push the targa up and out. Yes, it would have damaged the car and ruined the top, but his life could have been saved. Or, at least he could have pushed it up and out half way to call for help. He was at a Waffle House for goodness sakes. There is always someone hangin' out in the parking lot.

Windshields are actually pretty easy to break from the inside....

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I've read multiple threads about how frustrating it is to own a Porsche with electronic locks for the front/rear hoods and when the battery goes dead, you're screwed. I get it. But one thing people haven't considered in many of these threads is Porsche desire to help protect your investment by developing technology that secures your vehicle from theft via immobilizer which locks down the car if accessed by thieves. Is the technology perfect? No! The ol' expression, "Locks are only good to keep the *honest* people out" is very true in many situations, but still, Porsche's immobilizers have been an effective deterrent for most lesser thieves (if you get my drift). My car even has LoJack installed which has probably been more effective in protecting (and recovering) vehicles than alarm systems.

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Exactly! If I knew the car did NOT have manual door latches, then I'd keep a simple hammer under the seat. Windows can be replaced, but not a life. Sad the man couldn't figure out how to get out or at least scream for help. Again, unlatching the targa top would be my first option if no one was around to help. I owned those types of cars, and the tops were really easy to unlatched and open. The C6 has two main latches that pull out.... and, they're manual.

Ok, this just in... The C6 Corvette DOES have a emergency manual door release on the driver's side. (see picture - #4) Apparently, James Rogers did not know about this feature as do many that own these cars.

Sheesh! Man can't get out of car because he doesn't know how to do it? What is the world coming to? A big red button with a clear indicator that plainly means "exit" car and he doesn't know it is there? I know it is way to much to say - read the f****** owners manual. It is a clear sign humanity as we know it is on the downslope, people so dependent on the fancy gizmos designed into the car that they can't even figure out, if something goes wrong, how to exit the car. We are most certainly doomed.

Ormond beach has the answer, pull the front bumper. If I can do it, anyone can. Clean your radiators while ur @ it, and follow the cable from the switch, pull it from under the front passenger tire and drop it down by the horn. U won't have to play golf in your flip-flops ever again or go to a meeting without your laptop or worry about your battery dying, or...

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DOES THE KEY HAVE TO BE IN THE DOOR!?!??!! I have this same problem. Battery dead for weeks, key battery is dead, put the key in ignition and it would not jump from the fuse box, took key out of ignition and would not jump. I guess the last thing to try is to put the key in the ignition? This car is driving me nuts; I didn't drive it b/c its a 997 convertible and it was raining all last month and cold out so I kept in the garage.

Fish out the cable under the left rear tail light. Pull it and open the engine lid. Use the jumper points in the engine bay and jump the car from a 12V battery or another vehicle. As soon as you get this done, replace the battery because it is now useless. And, get a battery tender/maintainer and use it in the cigarette lighter. This is so simple to do if the car is going to sit for a month or a couple of months.

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Has anyone explored the fact that it probably isn't the electrical system. If the donor battery doesn't work, the problem is likely the Frunck Latch Servo. Mine went bad after 6 years. It's a little motor with a mechanism. My problem was a shot motor. I could see where the mechanism could fail as well. Maybe the replacement servos have been upgraded. The good old cable is pretty fool-proof. After I found it in the passenger side front wheel well. I re-routed it to my front grill. And yes, it's silly to have an electronic mechanism to open the hood, which requires a manual backup, illustrating the fact that it always should/could have retained the manual setup WHOOPS. A dead thread, but apparently this won't stop until all the 996 and boxsters are off the road