Stomski sr067 broken stud removal tool.

So I broke 4 of the 6 bolts holding the drivers side header to my head. I welded nuts on two of the stubs successfully but the bolts just broke again closer to the head. I'm down to drilling them out. Stomski makes what looks like an excellent toolset to make sure I'm drilling down the centre of each bolt and I'm wondering if someone has one they don't need anymore..... or maybe they are willing to rent it? Stub Welded nut New shorter stub ​​​​​​

I just purchased the guide and used the manifold with longer bolts to hold it in place.

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So they sold you just the blue guide? How did you then line up you drill bits with the centre of the broken bolts?

https://www.stomskiracing.com/collec...mm-drill-guide This goes over the broken bolt. Allows you to drill 3/16 hole in them. I believe i then used an M8 tap set to expand the hole and clean out the threads. I used the manifold with this sandwiched between it and the block. That kept it perfectly vertical and aligned on the bolt.

Thanks for that tip. Bit more risk of me screwing up but definitely more economical than spending $342 USD for the full boat. Will have to think on it.

$342 is cheap compared to a messed up head. Don't try it unless you have a way to keep the drill square to the head.

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This is exactly what I was thinking.

I found using the guide added a safer first step. It put a perfectly straight 3/16 hole down the center of the bolt. Then I basically did what these guys are doing. I only had one to extract though. You Tube

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And me as well guys. I barely trust my skills (more like my patience) enough to drill this even with the jig. Sounds like nobody has a used one to rent or sell, guess I will be spending the money. I'm in Canada so this turns into a $500 endeavour pretty quick. Will post progress in this thread.

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Thanks for that video. You called it, for one I might take the risk but for four it's not worth it.

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It only cost that much if you dont sell it when you are done. Someone else will need one. Buy it, use it once and sell it for 50-70% to next person and you both get a good deal.

Also, I bought the kit and used it then traded it to a Porsche tech after I was done with it. Well worth it for peace of mind not to screw things up worse.

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That's the plan brother. Unless of course I keep it because *one day* I will need to do the other side... Thanks for the support gents.

update - I ordered the kit about a week ago - after trying but failing to back the studs out by welding nuts on them. I tried three studs and all of them just broke again but this time closer to the head: before welded nut after

The kit arrived in Canada promptly - I spoke with Steve Stomski and explained my predicament - he threw in an extra set of drill bits. Thanks Steve -! So the first stud has been drilled now with the smaller bit and I'll show those photos ....but first a word about depths, as we know drill too deep and you will nick a coolant channel and scrap your head. Off the bat I measured the hole depth as 22 mm, the Stomski jig at 25.4 mm thick, and the shoulder of the guide as 5.4 mm. I marked the bit therefor at 52.8 mm (Sharpie worked great and seems resistant to washing off with cutting oil by the way). About half way through though I realized it was the length of the bolt that matters - not the depth of the hole. Sure enough I learned that the threaded section of the bolt is 26 mm long. I measured the header flange to be 12 mm which meant that only 14 mm of broken bolt was stuck in the head - a full 12mm short of the bottom of the hole. I added a mark on my drill bit at 40.8 mm and sure enough that's where I ended up breaking through. I stopped about 8 times during this first drilling campaign to clean out the swerf and re-oil my bit. Picture shows the pilot hole after the first millimetre to confirm I was centred. Note also I've removed all of the coolant lines and hoses - they were going to get in the way and since I plan to drop the motor anyway now was the time. Going to drill with the big bit next..... marked up drill bit mounted jig pilot hole check

I should mention I'm fortunate enough to have room for 4-post hoist in my shop - easily the best investment I've *ever* made in tools. I would hate to be doing this on the ground.

So this is the broken bolt once the centre has been drilled out. That took me a few hours because I went very slowly - just a few mm at a time. Then - somewhat ant-climatically - I set up for the big bit and that job was done in a few minutes. You can see here how the residual threads pulled right out like a big string. To be fair - I did this in two stages as well although I shouldn't have. I pulled this string as far as it would go and then went in and drilled the second part and had to get in there with a dental pick to hook the next string. Anyway - that's one done and three to go. after the big bit pulling out the residual threads

Nice job! Having that lift sure makes it nice to work under there

So that's three out of four done successfully. he next two didn't result in residual threads. In both cases the threads were removed by the drilling process. What I mean to say is that the threads in the head stayed intact but the bolt threads were drawn out by the drill. Anyway... happy so far, calling it a night. The last one is right up against the sump so I might have to do some thinking..... Too late for that now.

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I am looking at the car on the lift. Did you drive the car partially onto the lift and leave the back half of the car hanging off the lift so you can drop the engine? Any fear of the car falling off the lift when doing this?

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I was a little concerned when I planned it in my head at first, but once the plan was implemented it was very clear that the centre of gravity is over the ramps. Nevertheless, I started slow and low to convince myself it wouldn't be a problem before I went all in. ​​ Its working out well. Going to make the engine drop a piece of cake. edit: The car is supported on the rear jack pads. It's not going to tip backwards, just as it wouldn't do if I used a floor jack to raise the car or if I put it on a two post hoist with the arms of the hoist extended to the four jack pads.

That is awesome to know. I have a four post lift and always wondered how I would drop the engine if I needed to.

OK - job is done. A few notes: 1) The tool does the job - no doubt about it. all for broken studs are out and I have clean threads. In my case the big bit removed the residual bolt threads on its own - only in the first case was I able to pull the threads out like a string. Don't know why. 2) The hole are 23 mm deep - but the bolt threads only go in the hole about 14 - 16 mm. This was obvious when drilling with smaller bit because I broke through long before I was 23 mm in. Not so with the big bit where I had to keep drilling deeper. Scary stuff because I was freaked out about drilling through into the cooling jackets. I think what was happening is that in the last few mm the stub starts turning in the hole and since it's a right hand bit it tends to drive the stub all the way to the top before it can bite again. 3) The last three mm or so of the isn't normally threaded. After this process the hole becomes drilled and tapped right to the end so when I insert a bolt now it goes in 3 mm deeper than the bolt in the holes that I didn't have to drill out (ie the holes for the two bolts that didn't break.). This freaked me out - think I had drilled too deep - but I confirmed that both the untouched holes and the ones that I drilled are all 23 mm deep. 4) The process seems like it removes the peaks of the treads in the hole - it's barely perceptible but the threads in the holed I drilled might be 80 - 90% of the depth of a hole out of the factory. Picture shows the threads of the last hole I drilled and they look sharp but if you zoom in you can see they are squared off a bit. Not enough to require helicoils though, and that is what matters. The kit does come with a guide for an oversized bit required for helicoils, but no oversized bit and no oversized tap.if necessary. So - with that I guess my kit is for sale. My only hesitation is that I have only removed the driver side header because that's the side of the engine I will be working on. I'm contemplating removing the passenger side also so that I can ceramic coat my headers but also so that I can clean out those threads. Lastly - what do you guys think about installing stainless steel studs and maybe copper nuts when I replace these headers instead of using the stock Porsche supplied bolts ?

Aluminum and stainless dont really play well with each other for fasteners. U can get alot if oxidation but it may not matter if u never have to pull the studs?

So i had the fun of breaking 8 out of 12 exhaust bolts today. Still want to sell or rent the tool? Ill pm u too.

It blows my mind that Porsche used bolts and not studs. I cannot understand the rationale. My car had four of six passenger side bolts broken when I bought it Jasper your garage looks incredible. It makes me curious about your house, is it some MCM masterpiece?

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Rationale is saving costs. Bolt is 1 p/n vs stud and nut 2 p/n and attaching a part using studs and nuts requires extra time to fit the nut. Ease of replacement during product life is a non-issue for Porsche because too few of the headers are removed under waranty (where porsche foots the bill) to make a difference in this cost calculation exercise. Add to this that in the warranty period most bolts could be removed without snapping and it makes financial sense to the manufacturer. Probably for this same reason they went to wheel bolts from 9x6 onwards

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I'd replace the things with M8x1.25 hardened studs and M8x1.25 copper plated flange nuts and be done with it forever. In fact that's what I did.