H&R & B8?s - Advice after Install

Hello all - as the title says, I just completed the install and am now looking for a decent alignment shop in my area. Before I take it in however, I�d like to ask everyone that has completed a similar install, if it was necessary to replace the toe links (or anything else) to get within spec? The measurement at the center point of each fender (in line with the hub) is now approximately 25.5 inches. Ive read and combed through what seems to be a hundred different threads (I�m grateful for the wealth of info here) but it�s been difficult to find a definitive answer. I understand there are a lot of variables to consider, so maybe that�s not possible. Im hoping to save some $$$ pre-alignment if I�m just going to have to replace �stuff� anyway. Not to mention the cost of a second alignment. Thanks!

About a year ago I went to B8’s and H&R springs. I also had my indie install RSS adjustable rear toe arms at the same time. Without adjustable toe arms, or at least eccentric bushings, you won’t be able to get the rear within spec and you wear rear tires out much faster. After living with it for about a year now I’ve noticed I do get some bump steer in the front. It’s not terrible but it’s noticeable going over crests in the road or or certain bumps that load both the front wheels equally. I just bought RSS front adjustable toe steer kit but have yet to have my indie install and realign. Once I get this sorted and a couple thousand miles on it, then I’m going to do the sway bars and that should pretty much do it for my needs. I do love this suspension set up by the way!

Not sure if whats on mine is need because it came with the car along with h and r springs and b8s. Front has rss tie rods and gt3 lowers, rear has rss upper dog bones and i put on taret adjustable toe arms. I run about 2.5 camber all around for a more trackish set up. No bump steer in my set up.

I would love to add a bunch of other components to really dial it in, but for now I have to sorta do things in phases... you know, finances and all. If I have to spring for something else to ensure that the car is safe and or I’m not ruining my tires, so be it - I’ll just have to scrounge some from my wheel fund! For now, I’m hoping an alignment is all I need, but like Sobriquet advised, I may be looking at adjustable toe arms at a minimum. Anyone else?

Curious because I�m about to do same set up on my 4S. I do about 2k a year so not sure tire wear is that crucial. They will age out I would think first.

Rear toe misalignment can chew up the inner part of the tread in 100 miles.

Good to know. Is there a definitive answer on whether new drop links are required?

Quotes source post: 17186189

You can save some money by using eccentric bushings in your existing toe arms rather than buying adjustable rear toe arms. But you�ll most certainly need one or the other. https://www.elephantracing.com/porsc...ntric-bushings

Quotes source post: 17186724

New drop links are not required unless you�re swapping out the sway bars for adjustable. Or they�re worn out.

Sorry still learning. Drop links same as toe links? I see a toe control arm and a stabilizer bar link which I believe is a drop link. Is the toe link the same as a toe control arm? I just thought I needed new struts and springs to lower 4s. Do I need anything else for street driving? This gets really confusing.

Quotes source post: 17186819

lol, thanks... I was just reading about those! I wonder what the process entails regarding removal & installation? They are definitely a more affordable option. I have also looked at several adjustable toe arms on eBay (GodSpeed and Megan Racing) for around $200 but not sure on the quality. Most of the other brands recommended here are roughly twice that (I�m sure for good reason).

It seems to vary car to car. When I did mine, everyone said I would need rear toe links (no they are not the same as drop links, drop links are for the sway bars), but that was all. I could get the toe into spec with stock adjusters, but camber was too much for street. I ended up going with adjustable upper control arms (dogbones) to get my camber back to reasonable. I did end up replacing my rear toe link with Tarrett ones, and really glad I did as mine were more worn out than they appeared, but I could get to a good spec with stock adjusters.

Quotes source post: 17186833

Drop links are for the sway bars and are not the same as toe links. Toe arms and toe links are the same thing. If you�re lowering your car, you need a way to get more toe adjustment in the rear so you don�t burn through the tires. You can use adjustable rear toe arms or the bushings I linked above for a more cost effective alternative.

Quotes source post: 17186864

This will give you an idea of what it takes to remove the old bushing. Doesn�t seem terrible. You can actually ship you rear toe arms to Elephant and they�ll swap out the bushings for you. Look into their �Component Services�. You Tube

this it?

Quotes source post: 17186924

Yep!

Thank you. So this will take care of the back, and nothing needed for front. Also, my indie won�t install since he didn�t buy the parts so my other car mechanic said he could do it. Is It it a strange request to ask him to swap the bushings? I�m thinking all he needs is a press. Is that correct? Thanks again, I hope I�m am circling the drain on this.

Quotes source post: 17187055

i don’t think it’s necessarily a “strange” request. Though a lot of mechanics/shops are cautious with regards to using customer parts... and I get that. Most do not want to take ownership of something they are not familiar with. Oh, and check out the video link Sobriquet attached to post #14 - it shows a process for replacing the bushings. It doesn’t exactly look like fun, but it’s definitely do-able,

Thanks everyone, I read this a few times. I think I got it now. The lowering will cause to much toe in. By adding that bushing, it will shorten the distance of the toe link and reduce the toe in so it can be aligned to spec. Again, Thanks everyone. I�ll talk to my mechanic.

I have the megan racing arms on my track car. Dont have any complaints. Thry likely arent aerosoace grade heim joints or whatever, but they dont have any play after 4 years, nor do they make noise or anything. I dont see the point of paying more here for a street car. You could likely also build your own.

Now that I�m am thinking about it, I have no receipts that the toe arms were ever replaced. Car is now 19 years old with 74k on it. Depending on the cost, it might make more sense to buy adjustables since I would be avoiding the labor cost. Suggestions? Thanks

These them?

yes

Quotes source post: 17187497

While I don't necessarily disagree with you, street driving could actually be a little more demanding than track driving in a few different ways. 1) bumpy pothole laden roads (2) Weather/Wetness (not to say track can't be wet, but more often than not, they're dry) Road Salt (3) sheer # of miles etc... Again, this isn't to say they won't hold up to street driving, just a few things to think about.

I spent 2 years driving the car to the track in the northeast, so yea. I juat havent seen anything out of these things that would indicate a lack of quality