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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHOK the gremlin keeps moving around.
Leading reported evidence
Check electrical
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
so they couldnt diagnose anyting they checked all the electrical from front to back, they did a smoke check .....
Leading evidence: 'Check electrical' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'transmission cables, well i' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check /' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
ok so lasnight I replaced the #2 spark plug and coil.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
OK so I replaced the coil and the sparkplug with new OEM parts....
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Replace coils and spark plugs and the problem still exists
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
It seems no one knows what's wrong with the car, I took it to several Indy shops in the area since the problem started, they ran diagnostics and replaced coils and spark plugs and the problem still exists, this morning on my way to work the d*mn CEL 0302 came back on the car started to sputter bad I pulled over and ran a scan, the CEL was detected and cleared.
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transmission cables, well i
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Suspected cause · Original poster
Ok so on my last thread the problem was the transmission cables, well I fixed those, now is another problem it seems the d*mn gremlin keeps moving around the car.
Outcome qualification: Negation, uncertainty or missing explicit repair resolution overrides the raw extraction signal.
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58 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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Outcome without a verified action link
Yes , when I'm driving normal the car is good, runs great but sometimes and only sometimes when I come to a complete stop and the car is idleing after a min the car will start to shake and run rough and then the Cel light will start blinking and eventually the light will stay on, I scan it and clear it and the car will go back to normal........
Ok so on my last thread the problem was the transmission cables, well I fixed those, now is another problem it seems the d*mn gremlin keeps moving around the car. It only throws a code when the car is on idle (Cold and Hot) once the car moves and gets going the cel goes away, I did managed to get the # is P0302, P0300. I have no clue of what it is or what it can be but is driving me insane one thing after another. Can anyone plz help!!!!!
thank you
Do you park it outdoors or indoors, and has it been rainy?
A misfire that's present when cold but clears up when the engine is hot might suggest a cracked coil pack that's getting wet...
I park inside the house, she sleeps inside in a locked garage
....and yes its been raining...
it doesnt matter if its cold or hot it comes on when the car is on idle.
If your car is the early model 996 they also have a 'sleeve' on each plug which could have cracked. They may not have replaced the sleeves when they did the plugs, and coils. You would need a boat plug to remove the sleeve for checking.
You don't have to replace the "sleeve"(spark plug tube) unless there is oil leaking around it onto/into the spark plug & coil extension. If there is you can replace the "O" rings. Since the tube is plastic it can crack when you disturb it, so most folks just get new ones. They are not too much $$.
http://www.am-autoparts.com/Porsche/...ent%20EEK.html
No need to disassemble the valve covers. You can change them using a boat plug as Hurdi says. Some reference pics here:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...ark_Plugs.htm#
ok so lasnight I replaced the #2 spark plug and coil. when I started the car the P0302 cal came back on
I erased it took the car for a drive and the Cel has not come back since ......... Any thoughts?
Pic of the old coil you took out?
Any signs or micro-cracks anywhere on it?
Coils should last typically 80-100k.
Do you have a IR heat gun? I would measure each exhaust tube on each cylinder when at idle and the CEL comes on and see if there is a temp variation between them.
OK so I replaced the coil and the sparkplug with new OEM parts.... I took the car for a drive and the Cel came on once i reset the Cel, So far it has come a couple of times but it only comes sometimes when the car is on Idle ( hot or cold)
any ideas?
If it's throwing a CEL, then there is a code which will tell you what is wrong. Get the code before resetting the CEL. Almost any auto parts store will tell you what the code is.
Is always the same code p0302 misfire #2 cyl. According to the records the same problem has been tackled by several Indy shops and still throwing the same code CEL.......
Yes , when I'm driving normal the car is good, runs great but sometimes and only sometimes when I come to a complete stop and the car is idleing after a min the car will start to shake and run rough and then the Cel light will start blinking and eventually the light will stay on, I scan it and clear it and the car will go back to normal........
I know you said you had the injector replaced with a new one but either a good spark or the right amt of fuel isn't activating 100%. If you don't have IR temp gun, it might be a good time to buy one. They're relatively cheap these days. As stated before, try comparing the temps between the various header tubes to see if #2 does in fact read lower than the others when you're at idle and the CEL light comes on with the rough running condition. Also, you're positive the #2 coil plug connector is plugged in 100% with a audible "click"? Maybe also check the injector wire(and clip) to make sure it's on 100%.
Thank you for the response. So far the Cel hasnt come back in 2 days and it hasnt been raining either. as far as the IR temp I called the local Indy and he told me to bring the car by this weekend and that he will check it for free. Also when I replaced the coil and the spark plug i unhook the injector clip and re install it to make sure it was on tight.
Again thank you for the help!!!
Check that the rubber seals are in the injector and the coil's electric connector's.
Some times those will get loose and might drop off when the connector is open.
PLEASE!!!!!HELP!!!!! It seems no one knows what's wrong with the car, I took it to several Indy shops in the area since the problem started, they ran diagnostics and replaced coils and spark plugs and the problem still exists, this morning on my way to work the d*mn CEL 0302 came back on the car started to sputter bad I pulled over and ran a scan, the CEL was detected and cleared. The car idle just fine and I was able to make it to work. (late) lol
Does anyone have ANY Idea of what it might be?
Please Help!!!
I know.... the code is saying you have a mid-fire. You changed the coil pack, spark plug and injector at that cylinder yes? Could it also be a vacuum leak? A vacuum leak can mess with the fuel trims. I googled P0302 and found this.
http://repairpal.com/OBD-II-Code-P0302
This is just a WAG but something else to look into. Maybe have an indy do a smoke test (?).
This is sorta out there but have you tried driving it on a real bumpy road to see if the cel light comes on?
You've tried pretty much all the standard stuff already.
When i replaced the sparkplug, it was normal no the car doesnt consume oil at all and it doesnt smokes.....
Yes I have tried just about everything and the local Indy shops have too....
That is a used plug alright. I don't know what is causing the misfires.
Just for grins I found a tell tale chart that describes the affects of a used plug.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/reading_spark_plugs.jpg
Good luck and keep us updated. It will be interesting to see what they can find. OTOH, most dealerships I know give some sort of warranty on their work so hopefully if it ever comes back again, they can resolve it on their dime.
According to NGK website
Multi-Ground Electrodes Improve Ignition Capabilities and are Less Sensitive to Increased Voltage Requirements Due to Gap Growth.
Designed to Specific Manufacturer Ignition Requirements, NGK's Multi-Ground Plugs Maintain All the Features of Their Standard Plugs, Including:
•Corrugated Ribs to Prevent Flashover
•Pure Alumina Silicate Ceramic Insulator, Providing Superior Strength and Better Heat Transfer
•Copper Core to Aid in Heat Removal
•Triple Seals to Prevent Leakage
Ok so I took the car to the Porsche dealership and after a day of them having the 911 guess what? THE DAMN CEL NEVER CAME ON...... so they couldnt diagnose anyting they checked all the electrical from front to back, they did a smoke check ..... I have been driving the car w/o any issues so far. I wonder what it could have been. ???
Mice... lol
Maybe chewed enough to intermittently make connection so every now and then it breaks connection temporarily.
Either that or dealership did the Hurdi method and sprayed wd40 to make it all better.
OK so I drove the car to PA and back with NO issues, Ive been driving the car all week and thanks to this Marvels Mistery Oil No CEL at all, I put 1/3 of a bottle in the gas tank and the baby purrssss like a kitten.
Where did you find this stuff? I read the about page on their website and this appears to be the same product developed in 1923! I hope you received some reputable advice before using this stuff. Short term gains are great, but you really need to find out what the original problem was.
Maybe the gremlin is just drunk right now, but he'll be back!
You can find it at any auto parts store I get it from Advance Auto parts lol, I have been driving the 911 since I got it back from the Porsche Dealer and I have to say after using that Marvel mystery oil, the 911 has not thrown a cell or cuts off or sputters the idle is a lot smoother, I�ve put over 2k miles since I pour � of bottle into the gas tank, I went back to the old man who told me about it and told him thank you!!!!! He said he swears by that Mystery Oil, and according to him he told me it could have been anything from a clogged injector to a stuck valve to carbon build up. All I know is that the 911 is running like it�s supposed to and for $4.99 for the Bottle instead of $300 for a diagnostic and no results ILL TAKE IT!!!!! lol
^ Good for U^ I'm not sure I'd have the b*lls to do that, and if I did, post about it here. Not to hijack the thread, but I put a quart of MMO in my sons 944 (in the oil, not gas tank- drained off a qt. of oil 1st) after it sat in our driveway for almost 2 yrs. and I have to say, it runs better now than it ever has...Maybe we'll try some in the gas tank too...(in his car not mine
)
Update: Since i pour the MMO in my tank the 911 is purring like a kitten and so far no codes, the car idles great, I'm doing this every oil change and I have to say MMO has my vote.
According to some Indi's and The local Porsche Dealership, they said MMO is simmilar to BG-44k and Keropur, according to a Porsche Tech he told me the diffrence is extremely minimal they both do the same Job and the only HUGE diffrence is the price.
MMO reduces the octane rating of the gasoline when you add it to the fuel tank.
Roughest analogy for the MMO is a paint thinner. If you car doesn't get much use, it could help break down the gunk in the fuel system.
Yes it does thats why I don't use it as often, but you are correct it gets all the gunk out of the fuel system. Again I much rather pay $4.69 for a big bottle of MMO than $20.00 for the same product just diffrent name and the Porsche lable on it at the INDI or Dealership.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
