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YOUR RESEARCHInstalling 5-channel amp in 99 with 6 speaker hifi
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best space available
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This meant that I had to remove the spare (some obvious cons to doing so) but it was the best space available.
Installing 5-channel amp in 99 with 6 speaker hifi
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Leading evidence: 'best space available' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'best space available' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Recommend low pass crossover point' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I previously replaced the dash+rear speakers and head unit with Alpine gear.
Installing 5-channel amp in 99 with 6 speaker hifi
Use car's wiring
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Prior owner used the car's wiring from the amp, and spliced the wires direct to the back of the Kenwood unit (by splicing the line outs and using those from back of CDR220).
Installing 5-channel amp in 99 with 6 speaker hifi
Recommend low pass crossover point
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Suggestion · Original poster
What is the recommended low pass crossover point for the factory door speakers?
Installing 5-channel amp in 99 with 6 speaker hifi
Reconnect nokia speaker lines
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Suggestion
So I'm trying to figure out how to wire the PCR220 to a new AMP, and then reconnect the old Nokia speaker lines to the new amp.
Installing 5-channel amp in 99 with 6 speaker hifi
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I found a deal on an Alpine amp, so I think I�m finally going to upgrade the tired and wimpy Nokia amplifier.
I have the 99 hifi stereo (pre-MOST) with speakers in the dash and rear, and the additional woofers in the doors. Similar to CAI�s approach, I�m replacing the 6 channel factory amp with a 5 channel amp that is more space and cost effective. The door speakers will run mono off the amplifiers single subwoofer channel.
I previously replaced the dash+rear speakers and head unit with Alpine gear. I have a pretty good idea of how to install the amplifier but have a a couple of questions
1. What is the recommended low pass crossover point for the factory door speakers? I can�t find their range.
2. How should I actually attach the amp to the car? I�m going to put it in the vertical location above/behind the spare tire where the factory amp resides. Do I need a base or bracket of some sort or do I just drive screws into the back of the trunk?
Amp arrived today!
And here is something I love about Alpine. You get a bench test certificate for the amp in your box showing exactly how much power it makes.
How is the stock amp affixed to the trunk wall? (My car had the base system hence no amp). Presumably it acres in and so you could use those mounting points to bolt in the new amp or bolt in a plywood plank that the amp is mounted on.
The speakers in the doors, especially on the pre-MOST cars are NOT sub-range speakers. Therefore, if you run the sub channel from the amp, just make sure you run the power output to lowest point at first, and then dial it up. IMHO, the speakers are intended to be full range and produce more of the mid-lower frequencies than what you'll experience from the dash speakers and speaker from the rear seats. This setup may be fine, but what you might discover is the vocal range is greatly attenuated. That being said, I would try a higher cross over point (2000 Hz) to start and then tweak to get the sound you enjoy.
Normally the factory bracket will work for standard sized amplifiers with a little modification. Lots of people custom install them on the floor of the frunk or make their own side mount.
Just remember, the factory wiring from the head unit is different from coupe to cabriolet. If you don't cut the harness, you'll need to make sure you get the right harness for you setup.
If you don't mind, please post photos and document your installation process. I have a '99 as well with PCM1 / DSP / factory amp and I've been reluctant to try to upgrade the factory system because it seems a bit daunting with how everything is integrated. I've not found any good DIY documentation on upgrading the pre-MOST hi fi systems. I've done tons of plug and play speaker and head unit replacements over the years, but never anything that involved amps and cross-overs. All of that is a bit of a dark art to me. I had seriously looked at the "plug and play" package from CAI but the CAI kit is $850 which to me was a bit pricey for an amp and wired loom.
The stock mount is a fiddly bracket that connects to an anchor point in the �shelf� behind the spare tire and to the trunk liner.
The stock amp is also the size and weight of a paperback novel. My alpine is larger (and much heavier), so it won�t fit there.
Although, I did do a fit test with some cardboard to see if it would clear the hood
Narrator: �It did not�
Everything else I have read says that while the door speakers are not true subs, they are definitely
not
full range speakers and the factory amp only sends them bass signals.
My Alpine S-S40 coaxials in the dash and rears are rated only down to 97hz. So I figure I�ll start with the high pass filter at around 100hz and tweak from there.
I�ve searched for the frequency range of the door speakers, but can�t find it anywhere. Spotify has test tones at different frequencies - I may use those to try to figure it out by ear.
The low pass filter on the sun channel of the amp starts up at 400hz, so that�s the highest point I can start with.
See above - the factory bracket and location isn�t fit for a real amp.
CAI installs amps against the firewall, which seems like an ideal location, but my amp is slightly too big to fit there.
I want to keep my trunk usable, so I�m not going to mount the amp on the floor. There is a nice space along the side of the trunk I�m trying to figure out.
The problem with that location is that there is nothing solid behind the trunk liner - just empty space. I�m thinking about building a rack that connects to the firewall on one end and those slots on the �shelf� that are meant for the CD changer. I wish I had experience with sheet metal fabrication. If anyone has tips or ideas, I�m all ears.
I hear ya on the CAI price. The new model of these Alpine amps was just released, so I got this one on close out for $280.
The
installation instructions on CAI�s site
are quite good. I think you could probably find a smaller amp that would fit the firewall space for less than $500 and follow their instructions. You would still have to make a simple rack.
I�ll keep updating this thread if it�s useful to others.
I'm in similar boat, except I want to return my stereo from the aftermarket Kenwood, to the CDR-220. BUT I want to keep the upgraded door speakers (with crossovers to tweeters) and rear speakers. The Nokia can't run the newer speakers, so need a new amp. The front dash speakers were cut away and tweeters cut and connected to crossovers.
Prior owner used the car's wiring from the amp, and spliced the wires direct to the back of the Kenwood unit (by splicing the line outs and using those from back of CDR220). So I'm trying to figure out how to wire the PCR220 to a new AMP, and then reconnect the old Nokia speaker lines to the new amp. But it's all giving me a headache.
I guess my situation is very different
Yeah�sounds like a different situation. However, while browsing for other amp information yesterday a saw a YouTube video for bypassing the amplifier. That sounds like what the PO did to your car. You might want to check out the video to see if you can reverse engineer it.
I mocked up an amp rack that takes advantage of the CD changer mount.
However, I�m finding it very difficult to cut and bend the 22 gauge sheet steel I bought to make the brackets.
I was able to score and break off a large piece cleanly. However, aviations snips are making a mess of things. I may try a jig saw with a metal blade next. I feel so close but so far from completing this. I wish I had pro fabrication tools and a proper workshop.
I have an Alpine PDX V9 5 channel amp (which has a smaller footprint than yours) and I mounted it on the left side of the �shelf� using a piece of MDF covered in black felt. That was to provide a flat surface to mount the amp and I was able to see where the mounting screws went to ensure I didn�t hit any wiring or the battery.
I previously had a massive Focal amp that I mounted in a similar fashion where the spare tire mount is. This meant that I had to remove the spare (some obvious cons to doing so) but it was the best space available.
I upgraded my speakers to Focal (three way component set up per Rod at CAI) and added a separate Focal sub so can�t comment on the crossovers for the OEM doors.
here is the larger amp mounted in spare tire location:
current PDX V9 install:
@bill_996
Thanks for the photos. My new plan is mount a smaller Kenwood amp where you have your Alpine mounted. I have a black polypropylene cutting board that I�m using as a rack.
How did you attach your amp rack to the car? Did you drill into the metal wall of the battery compartment like CAI suggests? There are two blanks/holes at the top of that area that will accept a rubber well nut. I�m thinking of using those so I don�t have to drill anything.
I used a couple sheet metal screws and drilled where I could ensure that I wasn�t going to hit anything. I found it was plenty strong to mount the board with just two screws. That location also gives easy access to the grommet to pass through the frunk into the battery compartment and allows for a shorter set of cables.
it would be better if you could use the rubber well nuts with existing holes.
Good luck!
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