More questions about moving to the frigid north

Maybe I'm really being paranoid but now I'm thinking that taking my Southern car with 100,000 mi on it to the north where it will be subjected to dry air and cold temperatures, then it might make sense to preemptively replace the fuel lines? Anything else that might become brittle I replaced all the suspension motor mount transmission mount, all the coolant lines are good I just had a major one replaced when I did the water pump and reservoir. But fuel lines? I have no idea if they were ever done, thoughts? tia

Where is this 'frigid north'? I'm thinking you're overthinking this...

The only issue with the "frigid north" I see is only 5 good months of driving. June - October.

Check the windshield washer fluid. Some of the products are not safe for freezing environments. Not sure if frozen washer fluid would damage the reservoir or the hoses, but low temp fluid is available.

- no reason to avoid cold or snow just avoid the salt

It was built in Germany they have lots of snowy mountains no worries I bought my 99 from the south all its life to NY I drive until they salt the roads 3 years no problem

Daily drive it 365 days of the year in the frigid north - No problems

Don't forget the vacuum lines. They get very brittle with age.

Also with all the heat the south and west are enduring I think that creates just as much if not more car damage

One of the last Corrados I restored was an original Florida car for 28 years - I was the 2nd owner. Every piece of plastic on that car was ready to crumble to bits when touched. Not one spot of rust on it though. The Corrado I'm restoring now is a barn find from upstate New York that got parked after a head gasket blew. The plastics on it are in really good shape. So cold is not always bad. Clean it regularly if it gets salted, don't idle it to warm up, and easy on the throttle for the first few minutes.

Frigid North = Indianapolis?

The only things my car complains about when it�s -10F outside are the bearings in the idler pulleys and the engine, unless I�m running 0w-40 for the winter. I would make consider a coolant flush if you haven�t had one in�forever. Are you storing your car in a garage? Also, if the battery is older than 5 years, consider a new battery. Otherwise, you should be fine. Gasoline doesn�t freeze until -100F or so.

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NS, CA... Across the water from bar harbor, Maine.

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That helps, thanks. She had new radiators, water pump, and reservoir this spring, so coolant is new. I run 5w50 tho here in NC.I guess change to 0w40 for winters? And I'll get antifreeze in the wiper washer fluid. Battery was new in spring '22, and it's kept on a tender. New alternator as well. I'm considering changing the y cable and starter, it's of unknown age. The big thing for me is rust proofing. I think I'll try woolwax or fluid film. Messy but better then corrosion. ​​​​​​ It will be garage parked, unheated tho. I'm considering block heater and blanket.

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Lot of my friends that live up north in the rust belt purchase cheap winter cars and keep their more valuable cars for warmer months or when there is no sand/salt mixture on the roads. You might find that an old beater with snow tires is cheaper than trying to winterize the Porsche.

I am not sure I'd want to run the car in the depths of winter either. When it's around 10F outside my Cayenne generates a whole bunch of spurious fault codes just because it's cold, things like AWD failure, brake booster failure, oil level low, low beam failure, and lots of little things don't work (like the radio). I hesitate to think what it will do when it finally gets to -15F here. My 30 year old VW starts right up and is ready to go, if you can manage to shift gears at -15F.

The 996 can handle it. You know the routine, use the proper tires for the season, run good oil and keep it fresh, proper warm up procedures, fresh fuel injectors, wash the dirt and salt off the car every so often when you get a warm winter day and you will be in good shape. Can't remember if you have a C2 or C4 but if it's a C2 and you don't have an LSD, consider getting one. Snow tires with an LSD provide alot of control advantages in the winter months, not to mention spring, summer and fall. The 996 is a blast to drive in snow. It goes where you point it.

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all good advice guys thanks. My mom does have an old Ford escort that runs like a clock, so the pcar is optional. I've no LSD, mines a base C2. But I do have brand new vredestein wintrac pros mounted on my weathered old 17 twists. The rears are 45 profile, so they will give me 1.3 cm extra clearance . Fronts are 50s. I've been cleaning the old wheels up, I'm pretty much ready to hit the barrels w 2x clear and then a ceramic coat and then a lanolin on that. I'll definitely be parking it for cold snaps, I just want to be able to enjoy it when weather allows and not worry too much about salt damage. I think I've got it sussed. Thanks again!

Living in New Jersey and dealing with the snow and winter weather ( I surely miss AZ ), the DOT and locals here use large amounts of Sodium Chloride (NaCl) and have also added Magnesium Chloride (MgCl2) to coat the roads lily white in the winter months. The combination of these products in the last two years destroyed the frame, various aluminum parts, and wheels on my Nissan Frontier despite flushing the chassis weekly with neutralizing products and using a litany of Eastwood products. I now use cosmoline and vast amounts of fluid film to place bi-monthly coats on my new four-wheel drive truck’s underside. From late November or early December, the Porsche Cab gets tucked away after an oil change and a battery tender until slightly warmer snow-free weather, in which I once again change the oil before starting since it has sat with various amounts of temperatures in its unheated garage that is vermin proofed. I don’t mind driving in snow, but as bad as it is, winter weather brings out the worst in drivers. From experiences of being T-boned in winter due to somebody’s lack of skill sets, I can always fix, replace or modify motor issues; however, fixing a bent structure and fighting the insurance adjuster isn’t something that I want to pursue....which is why I put it to sleep and wake it up in better weather and drive a four-wheel mid-size pickup truck with an ARB bull bar.....I have also managed to hit several suicide deer with no damage to the new truck!.

You bring up a good point for the need for a predetermined replacement value insurance. Many of us have put more money into our cars than blue book value.

FYI an unheated garage is better than a heated garage because heat accelerates corrosion.