A Porsche newbie in a 1999 C2

Hello there! A few words about me, I am French and living in Michigan for a little more than a year now, I am working at a big Tier 1 supplier of car manufacturers (we are doing interior parts, seats, exhaust and some electronic parts, among other things...). I am also a lifelong BMW enthusiast, and was lucky enough to spend 10 years of my life living and working in Japan before moving to the US. While living there, I discovered the world of track days, bought a Mazda RX-8 for track and family (got a daughter at that time), rolled it over at Honjo Circuit (rollcage are overrated), bought another RX-8, prep'd it, then decided it was too slow and bought an M3 (E36, euro engine ofc), which I also mildly prep'd. On the other hand I also ended up racing in endurance races in the Idlers series (similar to the US ChampCar I reckon), with some friends on a 318is, collecting a few class victories along the way in Motegi and Ebisu Circuit... I also purchased a M5 E34 for week end drives in Hakone... I never really enjoyed Porsche as much as I enjoyed my ///M's but many of my friends in Japan had a foot in BMW and the other in Porsche world so I had a the opportunity to drive pretty much every generations from classic 911 to 997... And I must admit I started to enjoy it, there is a special, indescribable, feeling in driving those little frogs. Then a couple of years ago, one of my friends gave me his 993 during a week of vacations in France so I could live with it with the family and we really liked it. I took a decision at that time that I really needed to give a try at owning a 911 of my own. I sold the M3 when I left Japan and shipped the M5 to Michigan with the rest of my stuff to land in the middle of a pandemic lockdown... But I could drive enough to realize that there is no way you can enjoy driving on the roads in Michigan: everything is straight, red lights everywhere and with pot-holes, uneven man-holes, and many other funny stuff designed to tear your car apart... When you oddly find some twisties, they are in residential areas where one cannot reasonably (and shouldn't) put his foot down... In those conditions I did not really enjoy the M5, and it is a bit too big of a car to drive on the track (I did do a few laps in Japan, did not enjoy it so much), so I decided to sell it to make space for a smaller sport car that I could drive on the road on weekends, bring to car events, but also bring on the track sometimes, like my M3 back in Japan... I was initially looking at E46 M3's, but also at 996 as they answer more or less the same requirements (and similar caveat regarding engine durability...). But I came to realize that, given the trend, it was now or never to seize a car at a reasonable cost since it seems a few good auctions on BAT led everyone to believe they were suddenly owning the 8th wonder of the world... And I have owned various BMW's for the past 15 years so maybe it is time to change, right ? I saw a silver 996 for sales on auto trader at some sports car dealership in North Carolina, which was exactly what I was looking for : 1999, base C2, in good shape but not too good (some dents and scratches, a bit tired interior...) so I won't hesitate bringing it on track day, with a reasonably low mileage (89k). Also has sport seats, which I like I could see the car through a zoom call, the shop sent me an inspection report, and I spent a couple of days looking over the internet to see what else was there... And finally proposed a deal a couple of thousand below the asking price, the next day I was wiring the money. So I bought a car sight unseen, without independent PPI, 600 miles from my home, what could possibly go wrong? Well no much (yet, at least), I drove the car all the way back from NC to MI yesterday without issues and I love it already! It pulls really strong, and it has a nice Fabspeed exhaust that sounds gorgeous. I drove in some countryside roads in North Carolina and it was a blast : the steering is spot on, the gear shifts are perfect, and the engine properly intoxicating Of course it is not perfect, but I am used to wrench my cars and I picked up specially that one because it seems mechanically sound and I can perform most of the maintenance I see coming on it (fluids, brakes, suspensions, reworking the audio system...). It also has a K&N Hot Air Intake that I need to get rid of as soon as I can (I hate those things). I have read around that people recommand to update the AOS and the oil pan for track use, is that really a requirement for a mild track day usage (3 or 4 per year probably, driven at 90%). I don't plan to race the car, for that I have other plans... There is also the elephant in the room : the IMSB... Back in France people would advise me not to touch it at this point since it is double row and given the mileage the car has, if it had to break it would be done already... The clutch feels really good so it won't be a "while you're at it" operation and I am also not sure to have the courage to do it myself so I need to decide what to do here (of course I have no maintenance records ) So here I am, I will be documenting my adventures here, hope you enjoy it and I can get some nice advices along the way. Here are some pics of the beast:

Looks good! Nice early '99 to boot. Welcome!

Neubauten, Welcome to the group. Thanks for the great intro to you. This board is a really broad group of enthusiast/hobbyist/professionals. And it's been going on a really long time. Any question you have on the car can be answered here, likely it was answered 10 years ago, but the search function is kind of clunky. Google searches find things in these pages better than the internal searches do. But don't spend too much time, just ask. Too bad about the Michigan roads. If it's like Chicago, it's a mess. Gotta get out and away to find the country roads. Good luck! And try not to smile while driving it. You can't!

Congrats and welcome!

Welcome fellow Michigander! Get out and enjoy it. Lots of scenic drives in Michigan. If you haven't already, connect with the PCA as most of the groups in Michigan are active. Where are you at, roughly?

Nice car. Early 99s are the best 😎 enjoy!

As for mild track days, I�m not sure 3-4 track events per year at 90% is mild enough if you have any cooling or oil pressure issues, worn tensioner/pads, any bore scoring, etc. I would take the first 25 mins of a 30-minute track session to determine your oil and water temps and look for oil pressure drops. You can glance, or better yet, video your gauges or log the data for review. For AOS, I�d consider buying and installing the UAOS. The AOS might be fine, but if it fails on the track, it could draw so much oil into the engine that you cause damage. The motor sports AOS is better, but I think the UAOS is the best solution for street cars and the occasional track day. I would spend the last 5 mins cooling down the car with the AC button depressed. The fans will help cool the engine and oil. Go from there. If you have good temps and zero pressure drops, you are probably good to go.

Thanks for the tips, I need to address a few things anyway before thinking of any track days (tires and brakes for sure....) Changing the AOS seems real a PITA but I guess that's not really an option then By the way I noticed there is no oil temp gauge in the car, can you guess it from water temp or do you see big discrepancies between both? I am a bit surprised not see that info in a 911 tbh...

The UAOS install isn�t so bad, and future AOS failures are a snap (easy) once you convert to UAOS. Pain once and that�s it.

Right, oil temps are captured in the DME, but not displayed. You can to pull that data. The oil temp location is also not perfect. It�s in the sump, and there are other locations where sampling would probably show a higher reading. Oil temps generally lag water temps for 15 mins; then they switch once the oil warmer starts to become an oil cooler.

Welcome to the ownership f a 996. Enjoy it and have fun with it.

99's Rule!!! Have fun (I know you will).

Congrats - as a relative newbie '99 owner I'll strongly suggest that you'll get some OBD 2 scanner with Porsche specific features. In my opinion there's a lot happening "behind the scenes" that you are not aware of without a proper scanner. Fuel trims etc.

Welcome to Michigan, yes the roads are crap but you can still have fun once you get a little north or west of the suburbs. Congrats on the car, you got the best year and color. (or colour if you prefer)

Road trip to Florida this winter, Sebring 12 hour or maybe Daytona 24 Hour? Enjoy the 1999 they are great. Rich

Great looking 99! Buy a 3M headlight restoration kit (uses a series of pads connected to your drill) and polish those headlights! You may actually see when driving at night. Enjoy the car.

Congrats! Welcome to the family

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I am living in West Bloomfield, so not too far from the M1 Concourse and Waterford Hills... But yes I guess I need to go further north to get some proper roads (especially right now there are roadworks everywhere) One friend, fellow French member of the PCA and 964 owner, invited me to some event on 22nd, I think I will join to see how it looks like. Thanks! I was actually looking for a solution, I did not know 3M had a kit, it is now ordered

Congrats 99 C2 in Arctic Silver, great choice But I agree that those headlights need some serious help.

Cool to hear about your past experience in Japan and idlers, one of the coolest Motorsports events I know of and MAN - does it scratch that JDM itch. These cars are really good on the track, hit up the YouTube in my sig for some examples from in the car. For a casual track car I would: Maint - make sure the regular maint items are squared away - tires are of new vintage, belt, plugs, air filter, coolant full and rubber lines look to be in good shape, fresh brake fluid (use something good, SRF or Endless) pads, rotors, power steering fluid, radiators are clean and free of debris, fresh motor oil, good look over on the suspension for any worn bushings. If you are looking to do some upgrades, I would consider the below: UAOS and drain back - this will eliminate oil being ingested into the intake and allow you to run a higher oil full than is often recommended, the lower oil fill level is specific to combat the oil ingestion issue. With the UAOS with drain back, it is no longer a concern. Tires - something with a 240TW will work well on track and street. I like Michelin road tires and loved my PS4S on both the street and track. Brake Pads and rotors - I have experience with Hawk HP+ and Sebro slotted rotors and would recommend both Suspension - this can vary pretty widely or be left out entirely depending on budget, if it’s on your list to get into - let me know and I will go more in depth here. Engine - The lubrications system is a known weak point - I can’t in good faith recommend anything that I know works to resolve oil pressure instability because I don’t think it exists (opinion). Now I have data to show that the widely suggested deep sump and baffle kit from LN Engineering does NOT work for me (fact). The bright side of this is lots of people, myself included have tracked these cars WITH G induced pressure drops and been OK. Some people have not been so lucky - I would suggest you spend some time really getting to know this issue - you’re not new to modifying cars so I think you will like this thread, it’s a lot to take in but will bring you current with regards to this specific issue and just has a ton of good info from really smart people on how these engines work when used hard : https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...stability.html Got to go back to work - let me know if you have any questions and feel free to reach out anytime - any guy that ran idlers is my kind of guy ! Welcome Bro !

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You�ve conducted testing with and without the deep sump with equal lap times, tires, oil type, oil temp and ambient temperature? I�m sure there�s plenty of people who would like to see that information.

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I didn�t say any of that. Try reading dude. I said: And I do have that data, and guess what� SO DO YOU, it�s been posted in the thread I linked to. The LN deep sump does NOT RESOLVE G INDUCED PRESSURE DROP FOR ME. No if� s and�s or but�s about and and unlike some 👇 � I have no sacred cows bro.

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I�m just questioning if you�ve done testing with and without the deep sump. I understand that you�re saying that it doesn�t solve the problem. But does it provide any improvement? For the record the po installed a .5 qt deep sump on my 996 and I�m pretty sure it doesn�t do much. No testing needed

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No and I never said I did - I have only provided data for the LN deep sump and baffle showing significant G induced pressure drops and instability. Don’t know. Dont know that either.

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Okay But how do you know it�s ineffective if you�ve never recorded data without the deep sump? How do you know the G induced pressure drops and instability wouldn't be worse without the deep sump? Don�t you need a baseline before adding modifications in order to evaluate the results and judge the effectiveness of the modification?

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You are not comprehending what I have been saying so please read carefully. I have said: Do you see anywhere I compare the LN deep sump and baffle to anything else�. No, you don�t. I don�t need to know what the stock, or any other part does to know that the LN deep sump and baffle does not resolve G induced oil pressure drops for me because I have experienced it and shared that experience with all of you. If it worked, the problem would be gone - it doesn�t, so the problem remains and this is irrespective of any other anything.

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I understand exactly what you�re saying. But doesn�t matter if the deep sump doesn�t completely solve your problem. You can�t evaluate a modification without a baseline. How do you know that it�s not providing some improvement over the stock setup? Remove your deep sump, go back to the stock sump and see if there�s any changes to your G INDUCED PRESSURE DROP. It�s basic tuning 101

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Haha - I hope not dude, I really do haha. I�m done trouncing this dudes thread - take it to the oil pressure thread if you feel you must continue but I would advise against it 🤦‍♂️ Tuning 101� I got to clean the coffee off my monitor after that one haha.

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I have a suggestion - you do it and report your findings. Looking forward to it.

Moved

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Why? I�m not the person saying that a deep sump doesn�t help.

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Yep Always ran my motorcycles on the dyno BEFORE making any engine modifications. It�s pretty basic stuff. If you�re going to tell people that a deep sump doesn�t help, have the data to back it up.

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Dude ! I NEVER SAID IT DOESN�T HELP I said it doesn�t fix� And I have the data, and you have it and everyone has it. Im not even sure if your just trolling me anymore. Bizarro world I tell ya.

@Neubauten excellent intro post. Welcome to Rennlist, the Porsche world, and the USA at large. I too was looking for an E46 when I caught the scent of the 996. I hope yours treats you well and keeps you in the family - enjoy it in best of health. Cheers!

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Thanks for all the advices. Will have a look at all that. Really happy that you know about Idlers, I guess the guys from Speedhunters are making this thing known outside Japan now... Since you are advertising your Youtube Channel, if you are looking for a bit of JDM track action, don't hesitate to visit mine : https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC42...gqLGw/channels That being said I ordered my first Porsche parts today : an OEM airbox (used), with a brand new Air filter, let's start with the basics and ditch the K&N

Interesting combo. Early 99 amber tail lamps but late 99+ Litronics [that need a serious polish] up front. Someone at least wanted to see at night but then let them get all faded

Is the headlight washer system functional ? What is the production date ?

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Cool man - keep us up on the progress. Oh yeah, Sub�d 👍 will take a stroll around.

On the topic of airbox, I would have went with a 997 unit. They're way more...prettier haha

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They are functional, I tested them while trying to activate the rear wiper (still did not succeed to this day ) Actually the production date is April 1998... Funny because the title says 1999, I guess it is a model year issue.

So somewhere along the cars history someone upgraded the lights to Litronics. Early 99s with headlight washers is not seen often, wonder if it was retrofitted or came factory like that. The 996 was introduced in the 99 model year for the NA market, even though they were produced as early as 1/98 for the US market.

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Thanks for the confirmation. I have the option 288 Headlight Washers I also have to option 566 NEBELSCHEINWERFER WEISS, which is White front Foglights. Not sure what Litronics refers to, I don't think I have that.

Litronics is Porsches term for Xenon/HID Your car has Litronic/HIDs, you can tell because there projector in the housing. They weren't available in early 99. Your car should have yellow front corners on the headlamps aka fried eggs and standard halogen headlamps.

566 is integrated fog lamps. They're the bulb closest to the hood on each headlamp. I don't find them very effective Move the headlamp dial one click to the right and pull it out to activate parking lamps and fog lamps. Two clicks to the right and pulling it out activates headlamps/parking lamps/fog lamps

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Thanks, I thought so too. There is an information on the carfax that the car was damaged at the front due to vandalism in February 2000, maybe a lamp was broken then and they retrofitted newer lamps... I guess we will never know. Noted with thanks!

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You should be able to check the option codes on the build sticker to see if your car came with the litronic headlights. 601

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Yes, I checked and it is not there.

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Never knew that the early amber halogens were available with the headlight washers? That has to be a really rare combination.

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Solid chance it's a replacement hood

As I said, Litronics were not ready for production on early 99s and thus no early 99 will have the option for them. I Have seen three early 99s with the washer system on the fried eggs. It is a rare option.

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Even if that is the case, the car had the washers from factory, I have the option on the build sheet. That would be your 4th then?

Headlight washers and they work 😀 Richh

So the early 99s with headlight washers had clear corners. Interesting

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Negative. Early 99s with washers were fully amber. My car has them

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Hey I know you. That's the second amber w washer I've seen. First one was on BaT a while ago

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You'd be the third !

I love this, only in such a forum you can entertain a discussion on the colour of the headlight washers So in my case it would mean the owner would have retroffited clear, xenon, lights and changed the orange corner pieces with white ones to match it, interesting...

Yep. But kept the amber tail lamps. Porsche sells an oem Litronic retrofit kit with all the wiring and such. Perhaps a previous owner got insurance to spring for that when it was vandalized in 2000

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Hello, Does anyone here could let me know where is the proper location for the OEM jack under the front hood? Or share a picture? I have it laying at the bottom of the storage space right now and this annoys me very much.

Behind (within) the spare tire in a foam insert.

Thank you, it appears the foam piece is missing on my car, as well as the cover for the spare wheel... Need to order that. I worked with the 3M kit on the lights in the meantime though. Pulled the right light out as it was not sitting properly for some reason. Interestingly there is a connector that sits at the back of the light that is not connected to the car (there is no harness on car side), not sure what is it for as it seems everything works fine... So I went away with my drill on the left light still on the car: I actually scratch a bit the paint so I did the right one out of the car. Final results are below, really happy with that, it totally transforms the car:

Nice looking 996 and well done on cleaning the headlights, looks much better. If you haven't make sure you spray a sealant, otherwise they will yellow quickly all over again.

So last week-end I spent some time to take care of the Porsche : removing an horrible subwoofer that was lying on the rear seats, removing the K&N intake, and a good wash! I found on Ebay a complete intake assembly, out of a 2001 car with allegedly only 30,000 miles on it, for a ridiculously low price and it even came with the MAF on, so I will have one spare. Everything looks very fresh so I just had to clean a bit the plastics and put a new filter in for good measure, and here we go! Before: During: Then I realized the M6 Bolt to fix the intake was missing: the person who put the K&N in used a much shorter screw that is not long enough... So a quick trip to Home Depot to grab a M6x35 bolts later, and it was done: Looks much better to me know... But I will be honest, I do miss the noise, so I might consider a resonator delete at a later stage, since there is basically no downside to it, just to get a more exciting sound from the back The K&N is in good shape btw, so if someone is interested, don't hesitate to PM me, I will probably put it on FB anytime soon. Then, next topic was the subwoofer. I am not sure what was the intention of the previous owner but there was this crap sitting on the back seat behind the driver, fully plugged and functional but not fixed anywhere so it was flying around basically all the time... So I disconnected everything (and yes that is the rubber of my clutch pedal...): And here is the beast, I guess I am going to try to sell it too... I did not have much time so could not clean the wiring yet, I just capped the exposed wire and will come back to it at a later stage as anyway the previous owner put a 2 DIN in the lower center console, which obviously does not fit properly so I need to clean the whole thing out. Btw I have the Hi-Fi option on my car but the sound is really bad, despite all the speakers seemingly working properly, is that normal? Finally I had to thoroughly clean the car, with my usual routine of Ammo products, except for the leather for which I use Colourlock products. All the plastics and vinyl had a white-ish sheen on them, I guess due to some cheap cleaning products applied a long time ago, but everything came back very well, and I am actually very satisfied of the interior, which looks very good... So good that I forgot to take any picture so it will come later. As far as the exterior is concerned, the car looks very good, as long as you don't come too close to notice the various dings and scratches But overall quite satisfied: I also put new tires at the four corners, chose to go with Yokohama Advan Apex V601 as I learned to trust Yokohama tires in the past and have never been disappointed. Actually wanted AD08R but they were not available shortly so I decided to try those, let's see... And so I went the the annual picnic of the local PCA chapter, it was really nice, I am eager to attend the autumn driving events that look really fun!

Imho, yes the hifi system sounds like crap. I tossed it and put a continental radio, kenwood amp in the stock location and some jl adio speakers. Its decent but looses some low tones. I just hit the gas peddle if i want to hear better music.

Nice cleanup work! If sub woofers are integrated correctly, they fill in all the empty spaces. But most of the time the system doesn't have the adjustability to do it. Or the user just wants something other than really nice clean sound. I've always had really nice sound in my cars and I've spent a bunch of money doing it. This is the first car I've had where I can just listen to the machine. Here is a picture of the foam insert in the spare wheel of my car, to fill in the blank from post 60..

Hello there... I need some help and advice So as I mentioned above, the previous owner fitted a 2 DIN stereo in the lower part of the center stack, which obviously does not fit. So I bought the metra kit to relocate everything properly, and decided to tackle that yesterday... However what I found behind the stereo is like a horror movie: miles of cables, ****ty welding everywhere, sometimes exposed, sometimes barely held together by loose ****ty tape... Interesting... Is that acceptable somewhere in the known universe? There was a big fuse attached here... Look at all this junk... So at this point I basically blew a fuse myself here and decided to clean up everything to come back to OEM... And what was supposed to be a quick job led me to tear out the whole centre console and more... There were wire for GPS, for a microphone, for the a blackberry charger going to the armrest (Haven't seen those in ages!), for the boom box going to the back, and other stuff I have not identified yet... Then at some point I reached to the frunk and I realized that: - the amp is not there (I have the M490 option) - the corresponding wires in the loom are just cut and capped ... No wonder why the sound was crappy... So guys, at this point I am wondering what to do... - Should I source an OEM amp, knowing that I am missing the connectors in the cut OEM loom, so I am not sure I can find them, and I am also missing the brackets... - Or should I buy some aftermarket amp? I would like something relatively simple as I don't enjoy electricity jobs, and above all I want something clean What is your take here?

If it were me I would make an appointment with a professional install shop. I'm just saying, that is one rat's nest of wiring and you will probably never figure it out. Alternatively, don't listen to the radio and roll down the windows. Nothing like the sounds of that flat six!

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Radio?

Yeah, that's what I meant...a professional *radio* install shop.

Thanks! But actually I already pulled of most of the junk and relocated the loom in the proper place, I still need to deal a few wires that go under the dash, but I am back with something workable in the proper place of the dashboard (albeit a bit shorter ) The real question is really if I should put an aftermarket amp or look for an OEM M490. I have read here and there that it is difficult on those cars to go aftermarket but I think those comments were mainly intended to the Bose system, which I don't have. Typically I am thinking about this one : Amazon Amazon I am not looking for high end quality, I just want to drive the OEM speakers and have a correct sound. As we know the best sound in this car comes from the back end

I would go with a continental radio from Bergvill and a small kenwood or similar amp. There r some good direct fit options and/or adaptors for speakers. Imho the factory stuff is aweful. I have a factor amp and head unit ill sell if u really want an oem look.my center stack...bergvill has the porsche stickers that go over the continental logo.

That looks nice. I like the cup holders. Is that custom?

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Came with the car. They work for a can but thats about it. I think pelican sells them. my car came with this arrangent. Im not sure what u have to do to move the items around but obviously it can be done. I did have to customize a bezel for the hvac controler.

Well, I decided to clean up everything, and re-assemble without any stereo for the moment. I made up my mind and will buy a 5ch amplifier, stick with the OEM speakers and put a 2DIN Android auto unit... I just need to chose what now... So I had to gut the interior as some wires were running below the console and some in the door jams... And here it the sum of the **** removed from the car... Anyway, nice and clean now ... Just waiting for me to put the new stereo in. I am going to have to rewire the loom to put the new amp, so I will wait for winter to do that as the car is not going to leave the garage for a few months so I will have plenty of time to manage it.

I am coming back to this forum after a while, I took a new job in 2022, which eventually moved me to California (San Francisco), moved twice there, and time just flew by... I finished the stereo job last year, fabricated a bracket to put the amp and installed an Atoto unit. Then I realized the door speakers did not work. I assumed they were original and used the sub connections and wire but after disassembling the door panels i realized they were changed at some point. Given the quality of the rest of this audio job, I am committed to remove them and put something nice and clean instead. I bought some original speakers with their enclosure but I haven't had the time to tackle this yet. I still did change the dash speakers with the CAI Upgrade, and that was pretty good. Now the issue is that I have a very obvious alternator whine, so I need probably to re-route the wires as I pushed all of them through the same grommet. I also performed a few maintenance items: - Changed both front wheel bearing - Changed the engine mounts Then I moved to the suspensions as everything was original on the car and fairly shot. I changed every single part at the front : arms, tie rods, sway bar links, and put Ceika coilovers on the 4 corners, based one reasonably good reviews i read on this forum... And subsequently junked them 3 months later as the ride was just unbearable, and the car was way too low, even on the highest setting. Considering the "quality" of the roads here in Bay Area, I decided to go the reasonable route and purchased a set of Koni Special Active and Eibach springs, took also the opportunity to buy Eibach Sway bars. Now I love the ride, love the look, it's really nice ... But now I have a clunking noise at the front on uneven pavement, both sides... It does not make it necessarily on big bumps, more on rough patches, It's really annoying and I can't figure out where this is coming from... I did not have this with the Ceika, and everything is new so either it is related to the sway bar or I did something wrong in assembling the struts but can't figure out where, any hint before I tear everything apart? Other than that the car is a blast

Did you replace the top mounts also? It's not mentioned and they are repeat offenders. Top mounts, drop links, and ball joints.

The "rattle" might be from the brake calipers and pads. Maybe someone changed out the pads and didn't install the dampers, or did it wrong.

Top mounts are new (Lemf�rder). Definitely not coming from the pads, this noise only came after I put the new suspension in. Also, pad rattle disappear under braking, not the case here. And the noise is different (happened to me on another car). The noise is "tak", like 2 pieces of metal hitting each other, but it's very neat, it does not resonate (lol, hard to describe a noise on a forum). And by the way, the handling of the car is absolutely perfect. I was thinking about the sway bar hitting the lower arms but does not seem to be the case...

Mines also a 4/98 build. Did you add yours to the early 99 registry? I wonder how far apart our cars were on the line, or whatever

I did Tom2769 4/98 Coupe Manual US WP0AA2992XS621642 Arctic Silver/ Black 2mAn 4/98 Coupe Manual US XS621670 Glacier White / Metropol Blue 234 408 438 438 490 537 580 586 859 Owain 04/98 Coupe Manual US WP0AA2996XS621904 Metallic Black/ Space Grey leather CO2 X71 220 222 224 424 425 437 438 445 490 537 688 936 983 09991 Neubauten 04/98 Coupe Manual US WP0AA2997XS621930 Arctic Silver / Black C36 139 220 222 224 288 340 375 376 424 425 490 580 659 688 583 MoeMonney 04/98 Coupe Manual US WP0AA2997XS622026 Arctic Silver / Black CO2 490 688 X70 twitchett 04/98 Coupe Manual US WP0AA2995XS622171 Arctic Silver/Black C02 234 408 424 888 Boff 04/98 Coupe Manual US WPOAA2993XS622217 Black/ Savannah Beige CO2 XKL XNG XNN XNU XN3 XU1 220 222 224 437 438537 938 981 983 09991 uscarrera 4/98 Coupe Manual US WPOAA299XXS622229 Artic Silver originally, full race car now orange/silver/green ThatDaveDude 04/98 Coupe ManualWP0AA2993XS622234 Black Pearl Metallic / Black full leather C02 XAA XRB 220 222 224 234 424 437 438 513 537 586 688 936 983