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YOUR RESEARCHAtlas TD6MR Lift Review
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Install maxjax and love it
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Leading evidence: 'Install maxjax and love it' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check cars' lift points and compare it' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I collected,unloaded and installed a Mohawk alone.
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In such situations I use very tall underhoist stands under the arms of a 2-Post.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Double check your cars' lift points and compare it to the specs before purchasing this lift!
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It worked great with the MaxJax I have when I dropped my motor on the 996 a few years ago.
The slippery slope continues...
I bit the bullet and purchased a
Atlas TD6MR
scissor lift from Greg Smith Equipment earlier this year. Pete's lift was just a bit too far from home to use weekly
. This is the 6,000 lb lift with 7 mechanical "stops".
I looked at all of the typical lifts, MaxJax, Bendpak, etc... and went with the relatively cheap option. Purchasing the lift was super easy - walked in the showroom, looked it over and handed over the cash. The staff was helpful and knowledgeable. Greg Smith recommends loading onto a flatbed trailer - they forklift the pallet on the trailer and off you go. It's very heavy, so plan ahead for how you'll lower it to the ground from the truck/trailer. I used some neighbors and a floor jack...easy.
The lift is "portable" but you won't want to move it frequently. Setup is simple - attach some wheels, bolts, fill with fluid and follow the initial break-in/bleed procedure. The 110v plug is not included so you'll need to add that as part of the setup.
Another thing to note is the maximum distance between the lift points - it fits the 996, a 981 Boxster, my GTI and a C6 Vette well, however my MB W211 Wagon is right on the edge of fitting. I bet large modern unibody cars will have lift points too far apart to work with this lift. Double check your cars' lift points and compare it to the specs before purchasing this lift!
The lift works very well - has a ton of room - I think doing an engine/transmission drop in the 996 is doable without altering the rear cross member. I had to build some ramps to get enough clearance, but that's typical with the scissor lifts.
Maximum lifting height is over 50" - not enough to stand under, but high enough to work comfortably. With the 996, I can get it to maximum height in my standard garage without hitting the ceiling.
If you're on the fence about getting a lift, just do it - this is easy money to spend. You'll wonder how you ever did anything without it. Simple maintenance, oil changes, track prep, suspension and just detailing the car is trivial now.
Here are some pics of the lift, the 996, and a C6 vette getting prepped for track duty in 2 weeks. Beware, people come out of the woodwork when you have a lift - even the guys still using leaf springs!
Thanks for the review. I'm liking the aspect above if it is true.
Was on the fence between this and quick jack mostly due to my existing low ceiling garage and portability to loan it out to my friends.
yup, my buddy has had this for about 3 years and we've used it countless times. No issues save for one slight hydraulic leak. great purchase for the money.
Nice! A lift is good money spent! I'm getting my brakes ready this weekend for that DE.
BTW.....just because you don't need to use my lift anymore doesn't mean you can't visit.....sheesh
Agree - I won't know if it's true for sure until I try it...and you won't know unless I post pictures
. I couldn't find any visual evidence to confirm or deny, but it certainly appears that the rear cross member of the lift will not impose on dropping the engine/tranny - you just make sure the car is oriented safely toward the rear of the lift.
So glad I saw this! I'd been thinking about getting a MaxJax for several months, but decided to pass and was thinking of getting the QuickJack. However this is far more attractive. QuickJack could only lift to 22".
With this Altals, has anyone dropped the motor and trans with this without cutting cross members off?
Im thinking about getting a scissor lift to drop the motor/trans. But ever other scissor lift seems to require chopping it up for clearance.
I have a 993
thanks
If you have the ceiling height -use it ! And get a full height lift. I have a 2 post Mohawk with the wheel engaging arms option. There is lots of discussion of this general subject on Garage Journal. The favorite is the in-ground scissor lift
You Tube
I bought both of my 4 post lifts from Greg Smith Equipment back in 2008. The lifts have been great. I've only needed customer service once since I installed them and I got help right away.
I now also have a 993 and am toying with doing an engine drop using the TD6MR. Here's what I can tell you:
The "cross bar" on this lift is structurally different than the bendpak lift where it's commonly removed
I would not under any circumstance alter the rear cross bar on this lift - it takes load from the rear movable arms (ones that swing out) and I'd hate to disrupt the integrity of the lift
The 993 transmission mount overhangs the cross bar by ~3" - meaning you will need to position the car very far back on the lift - about 3" back from where it naturally wants to go
By my quick glance - it's likely possible but you'd have to get creative to drop the entire lump with this lift
I prefer safety over convenience - so if I make the call not to use the lift then I'll lower the lump with the car up on my esco jack stands
"meaning you will need to
position the car very far back on the lift
"
Careful !
This may be tipy ? The car is already weight biased to the rear and when the engine+trans is released that changes !
In such situations I use very tall underhoist stands under the arms of a 2-Post.
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-c...and-60759.html
Nice lift! I have one very similar (Nussbaum Sprinter) and can drop the engine+ trans in one piece no problem. Can also drop just the tranny.
Dropping just the tranny.
Im discovering that taking delivery of these is also a challenge.
basically I would need a forklift or a crane. Not to mention a 53 foot truck would have a hell of a time up my driveway then turning around.
hmmm
Easy-
Present your challenge on Grage Journal.There are many threads that they will refer you to to solve the problem.
I collected,unloaded and installed a Mohawk alone. If I can do it.....you can too with some advice from GJ
Talk to the guys at Greg Smith also. But first make sure you are aware of all the new lift options out there.
For me the big issue was where do I buy a replacement seal kit ? Amazingly ,many Lift seller had no clue. I can buy every single part for my 1980 manufactured Mohawk from the factory.And they give excellent service over the phone. Try that with the chinese lifts !
That was fast !
Here is a write up on this Lift for others. There is also a comparison with Maxjax and others if you google GJ
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=332754
We have some visual proof now. Thanks!
So you reversed the direction of the car to bypass the cross member on the lift. The lift hydraulics now become the tricky part to work around.
What type of lift table are you using in your picture? Any other gotchas to share?
The hydraulics are difficult to work around. You may want to notch your wood ramps to pass the hydraulic under the ramps so you don't have to drive over hose.
Another thing I learned.. My lift came with two seats of lifting pads, high (for trucks and suv's) and low for cars. I lifted the car with low pads onto wood blocks so I could transfer to the higher pads. The higher pads allow clearance to remove underbody covers and easier access to front trans mounts.
You may find that the 500# hydraulic lifting tables fail to lift high enough if you use a full height lift.The 1000 pound tables go 3 feet
Go for "Double Scissor" cart and you get 60"+.But way more expensive.
example "BCART-1000D-DC Double Scissor Lift Cart"
Curious gents - and I'll post some pics in a few minutes - BUT _---
I have a delima - I bought 2 6000lb lifts (one for me - one for my best friend)
Got it installed - but the Jack points don't line up over top of the lift. Obviously our little gems are unibody construction - so I don't want to turn my 997 into a Brick -
So feedback - I see you have a 997 on the lift - but it looks like the front jack points aren't making contact - anyone else had to deal with this - and what was your solution?
Pictures coming ---
I made a engine trolley that is adjustable front and back and the wheels go around the outside of the lift.
This makes engine install and remove a easy one person job.And it can be taken apart and stored.
Yes indeed....I ve had one for a number of years. easily justified it by eliminating the $2500-5000 maintenace costs from dealers and indys. Probably paid for itself 30 times over
But, I've got a question (to other owners) without any load on it, empty, how long does it take to lower completely from full height ?
Mine is taking a couple minutes. With a load it it takes only seconds. How long does yours take?
I�ve never timed it, but it doesn�t move quickly that�s for sure. From full height with no load it will take several minutes. Your experience seems to mirror mine.
It looks like is being done over the hydraulic cylinders. What are you using to support/ lower the engine? Is trans also attached? Is there clearance to unbolt cv joints in this orientation?
Yes, harbor freight lift table. Trans was attached. I believe there was clearance to get at the cv shaft bolts once the engine/trans was mounted and the lift table could be removed. I was using the extended height (truck/suv) lifting pads.
I thought I�d read that the MaxJack required 5� depth concrete floor. I�m not entirely certain, but I suspect that my garage (built 2011) has 4� floors except for where footers are. That sound right? If so, is there any solution besides cutting out a section and repouring part of the slab? Seems like that would be less stable
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