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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
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YOUR RESEARCHDrive to shop with the CEL flashing?
Reported or suspected cause
rectified
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
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0
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Reported cause · Original poster
I am encouraged that your similar issue was rectified with new parts.
Leading evidence: 'rectified' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'rectified' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check codes and got p0300 and p0302' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Test been fine
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I twisted a radiator in an accident on the track 2 years ago, Straightened and pressure tested, been fine for 40 track days.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I used Beru 997 coils and they came with the longer bolts.
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24 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Took the baby out for a ride for the first time in a couple weeks and the check engine light came on about 15 minutes into a sort of spirited ride. The car was a bit boggy on acceleration and, of course, the idle was very rough and more noisy than one wants to hear.
I checked for codes and got P0300 and P0302. Cylinder no. 2 misfire. I didn�t clear the codes.
Upon restarting the engine the CEL is now flashing. I�m undoubtedly overdue for plugs and coils, and have sent a note to my Indy requesting a booking.
So, safe to drive with the CEL light flashing? The Indy is about 15 minutes away driving at 40mph. A tow truck is a nuisance.
Or? Change the damn coil thing myself, along with one only plug and see if that clears it. It doesn�t look THAT hard, what could possibly go wrong?
�02 C2 6sp 80,000 miles.
If you have any inclination towards mechanical repair, then change the coil yourself. Save yourself the hassle of scheduling an appointment and tow. Cylinder #2 is fairly easy to access.
But there is a caveat� I think 996 coils have been phased out in favor of the 997 coils. The 997 versions are taller and so the heat shields need to be spaced farther away to accommodate their height increase. If you buy the 997 coil, you�ll have to add washers and longer bolts to allow the heat shield to seat properly. It�s best that you don�t toss the heat shield due to these differences, or else your coils will suffer premature failures from excessive heat.
Same here. CEL came on when I hit about 6500 RPMs on a shift. Replacing coil packs and plugs fixed it. I used Beru 997 coils and they came with the longer bolts.
I can't advise you on whether to tow it or drive it, but in my case, I drove it 3 miles to get home with no issues.
I used standoffs for the heat shields to account for the thicker coils.
I hate to be a doomsayer of any sort, but mine threw a misfire code for cyl 2 and a flashing CEL when it had cratered a piston and bent a valve. Better safe than sorry is all I'm saying.
Im new to the 996 world but my vote would be to change it out yourself so you have that experience under your belt for next time. I always feel better when I do a job myself and have a better feel for what�s involved and how the car is put together.
It sounds like the rearmost coils are the ones that are a pain so maybe have your shop take care of those if they are too difficult.
Don't drive it, the adverse effect is that you could be dumping raw fuel down your cat and damage it. And if it's cylinder number 2, you should be replacing your coolant expansion tank while you are at it, it's probably leaking onto the coil pack.
Thanks for this...you are correct, they are now a 997 coil number. I just ordered a complete set of coils and plugs. The new coils come with the proper length fastening bolt and I will size up the heat shield situation when I dig in.
You are correct, of course, I have ordered six new coil packs along with six plugs and will tackle it myself. Like many, I get a bit weary of constantly fixing the latest glitch on my 23 year old car, but ultimately there is that joy of accomplishment when the task at hand is completed with success.
On a side note: I must thank you, and so many others, for the time and effort you put into this forum. Your sage advice is very valuable and generous. Uh, anything else I should refresh as part of this little project?
I have decided to go at it myself in the driveway so I don't have to drive it anywhere. The Indy shop replaced my coolant tank as part of the preventative maintenance work they did last fall, but I will check for leaks or overflow.
Actually, my Indy
insisted
on an OEM coolant tank and an OEM (goofy) oil filler tube. I broke that oil filler tube on week one of ownership. I used a rubber plumbing coupler and several yards of electrical tape do a hacker fix. I drove 10 or so years with the hacker repair..
The bolts from the old coils can be used for the heat shields. Actually, they're not "heat shields" - Porsche calls them "Trim Pieces". They sit on top of the coils, so how are they shielding anything from heat?
I thought of that but new coils and plugs were on the do-list for this year anyway. (More than anything, I don't want to set up twice as I'm old and tired of fixits and always just a little bit sore!) Maybe injectors too, although I think there are rebuild kits for those. Front brake discs as well, mine have been lightly warped for a couple of years. Shiny new front brakes discs are on sale here in Canada for a measly 73 USD or 99 Canuck Bucks. I may even buy four new discs. They're rated PREMIER and everything, for the spirited driver no less.
Funny. I thought of starting a thread on here labelled: Who is the cheapest SOB on here? How little did you spend on your 996 today? Who has the LEAST options on their 1999 to 2005 Porsche 911? Who has the MOST ratttles and clunks they really should investigate?
Yes you'll need to save for physical therapy if youre doing it on your back in a driveway/garage! I also have my own list "996 parts that people replace even if they are working perfectly fine". I twisted a radiator in an accident on the track 2 years ago, Straightened and pressure tested, been fine for 40 track days.
The valence between the hood and windshield was sticking up a bit on one side and when I investigated it the plastic where the screw goes to hold it down was messed up. I searched around on Pelican for a while and couldn�t find a new valence so I said screw it I can fix the thing myself. Used the screw top from an aluminum cigar tube (Cuban Romeo & Juliet) and drilled a hole in it then used JB Weld to stick it in place. Now I have an aluminum reinforced valence hole that fits perfectly.
A few days later looking for something else I found the valence I was looking for. But not gonna bother to replace it for no other reason than I can say I fixed my Porsche with a Cuban cigar tube.
I started a thread on here a few years back titled " Smiles per Mile $$$" ...My cost was $0.14 " Smiles per Mile $ .....
I think I'll revive the thread for you and any other new owners or old owners who have put lots of miles on thier 996's
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