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YOUR RESEARCHconvertable top "whirring"
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Replace they didn't actually
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I suspect when I had the headliner replaced they didn't actually check the fluid level.
Leading evidence: 'Replace they didn't actually' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check (supposedly)' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Here's what I used got the huge syringe from Walmart online and the fluid from Pelican, whisper quite now
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Just filled mine a few days ago, you can get the fill cap off with 5mm but it is a torks mine was very tight and thought it was about to strip with 5mm so I undid the three nuts holding the rack with the cables and moved it out of the way to get better access and used a torks bit
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Suggestion · Original poster
I just had this check (supposedly) when I had a new headliner put in last year.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I suspect when I had the headliner replaced they didn't actually check the fluid level.
I'm parked on a slight grade, and I know once before the top didn't work at all (no windows or clamshell) until I put it in Drive and rolled a few feet forward, back to Park, and then the top worked fine, so I repeated this to get the top to go down, but the
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Suggestion
That is technically the "service position" according to the Porsche Technical Manual Group 61 Convertible Top, Hardtop technical information/repair manual.
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Hi all,
'99 - My top just started making a slightly higher pitched 'whirrring' sound when operating. It almost didn't open this morning (pulled forward 5 feet and tried again. Worked.) Is this a sign of low hydrolic fluid? I just had this check (supposedly) when I had a new headliner put in last year. Anyone know of a good video for accessing the compartment and identifying the reservoir and fill nipple?
You need to check the hydraulic fluid level for you convertible top. Lots of references on how to do this. I've included 2 for you below. I've just packed up my hydraulic rams to send out for a rebuild.
FYI, there are 2 systems involved, a mechanical system that unlatches to top and opens the clamshell and a hydraulic system that raises and lowers the top.
Pelican Parts
Cabriolet Hydraulics
Good luck!
John
Here is the setup I use if you're just low on fluid.
Just a syringe and some silicone tubing that fits in the top of the pump reservoir. Add fluid through the nozzle on the hydraulic fluid container.
This is good stuff, thanks for sharing the links. The one thing I would add is that the service position is specifically this:
1) Open the top and stop when the tonneau cover (or convertible top compartment lid) has reached the rearmost position.
2) Push the button to close the top just until the tonneau cover starts to move forward and stop.
That is technically the "service position" according to the Porsche Technical Manual Group 61 Convertible Top, Hardtop technical information/repair manual.
This part seemed to work fine. This morning when I hit the top button, the windows went down and the clamshell unlatched, and that was all that happened. I'm parked on a slight grade, and I know once before the top didn't work at all (no windows or clamshell) until I put it in Drive and rolled a few feet forward, back to Park, and then the top worked fine, so I repeated this to get the top to go down, but the
whirrr
had a distinctly (if only slightly) different pitch to it.
Can I assume once I get in there the level should be obvious?
So the top is essentially in the stored position? It's down now, so if I understand this correctly, I hit the close button until the canvas top just barely starts to pop up, and then down again until it's fully stored and the hard cover just starts to move forward?
No. Starting with the top up and latched to the windshield. Open it until the clamshell stops moving back (fully opened position), then close the top (head back to latched in the windshield position) just slightly so the clamshell starts to move forward and then stop. Top of convertible will be 300MM to 400MM from the windshield frame.
I get my hydraulic fluid from
FCP Euro
, but shop around as you may find it cheaper. You won't need very much really. The syringe kit was cobbled together from stuff I had around the house.
Okay, so getting to the reservoir was relatively straightforward and painless, thank you everyone! The hydraulic fluid was definitely low. Well past the minimum line (though I am parked on a slight decline).
I ordered the Porsche specific fluid recommended above (for an extra few bucks, why not), and a syringe/hose assembly. Both to arrive by Thursday.
So all I have to do now is figure out a way to remove the fill plug. I could get a T30 star drive bit in there, but I don't know if that's the correct tool. I'd hate to be 'close' and then strip the plug. There's not a lot of room and I'm not even sure I can get a ratchet in there.
Does anyone know what size bit I need, or what tool is needed to remove the plug?
I can't tell what the plug is but it appears to be an allen wrench. In any case, it isn't held in there very tightly because the tightening torque is only 10nm. You just need a flexible extension.
Just filled mine a few days ago, you can get the fill cap off with 5mm but it is a torks mine was very tight and thought it was about to strip with 5mm so I undid the three nuts holding the rack with the cables and moved it out of the way to get better access and used a torks bit
Here's what I used got the huge syringe from Walmart online and the fluid from Pelican, whisper quite now
The hydraulic fluid is CHF11S or CHF202 which are the same. The auto parts store near me sells it as "european convertible top fluid" even though it is also used as power steering fluid.
Make sure you check the hydraulic rams for signs of leaking. Crud accumulation around the ends of the cylinders. The cylinder ends towards the front are difficult to see but you can feel around the end for signs of leakage/crud buildup.
