Advice for potential first time buyer.

Hello, new here. I'm trying to scratch a "need a sports car" itch here pretty soon and I've been looking at the 996. I originally started looking at some base Boxters from the early 2000s as I wasn't looking to spend 20k on a car I never really get to drive (I drive a work truck 90 percent of my life). Then after some reading I decided I would definitely need the "S" version as the base was too underpowered for what I was looking for. Then.....after some further reading and looking, it seems for just a little more I can definitely get into a Carrera for around 20k. I've read enough to know about the IMSB and some of the other issues, I'm not really scared as I usually work on my own cars and I've owned a P38 Range Rover (1996) and basically had to have a wrench in my left hand if the keys were in my right hand. I've always looked at the 911 like it was that super hot, rich girl that was a mile out of my league. It seems with the prices they are listed for I may have a chance at landing that girl after all. A few questions before I move any further. 1. What is the general thought of the C4 vs the C2? I've had rear drive sports cars in the past, and I own a 2006 Cadillac STS with the 320hp V8 and all wheel drive currently. It seems to me that the AWD takes some of the fun out of it, but not sure if that feeling translates to the 996. Thoughts? 2. Does the 300ish HP leave you wanting more? I'm also (kind of) considering a 2011 and up Mustang GT because of the 400 something plus HP. It just feels like I'm leaving a little performance on the table for the money, but the Mustang is not a Porsche. Is there enough small-ish mods to make a few extra HP in the 996? That would help me feel a little better about purchasing one. 3. Why do all of the cars that meet my criteria have the Tiptronic and not the 6 speed manual?!?!😡😡😡😡 That said, there are a few out there right now in my price range, and I'm willing to fly anywhere in the states to drive it home if it's the right car. I'm searching for them all day every day and I've seen quite a few that I would consider, I am starting the loan process with my bank today or tomorrow, I don't have the 20k just sitting around. They will be giving me a blank check thats good for 90 days and then the search will really be on. What are some things you look for and how many miles do you consider "too many"? Miles generally don't scare me, as long as I can tell its been maintained. Sorry for the long post, but I fully intend on updating as I move along in the process of owning my first 911. Thanks for any input.

Before you get blasted by some of the more "senior" members here, take in all that Rennlist offers for information. $20k might get you an older, higher mileage car. High or low mileage, you need to budget at least $5k after purchase to get all of the maintenance up to date. And no matter what the salesman or previous owner tells you, get a PPI (Pre-Purchase Inspection) from an independent Porsche specialist. You won't care about wiper blades, worn seats, a few scratches, but you will care about solid material in the oil or oil filter, CAM deviations, over revs, strange ticking down low in the engine. Those type of issues can run you another $20k to sort out. Power wise, these cars are pretty freaking fast. They are not drag cars and not designed that way. But holy crap with they get to triple digit speeds in a hurry and take corners like no other car. Good luck in your search and don't rush into anything.

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What he said ^^^ As for C2 vs C4 - the C2 is generally preferred if you want to take it to the track. A C4 would be ideal if you plan to drive in winter conditions.

Not sure where you are located but i would suggest you join your local PCA chapter and maybe find someone looking to sell or who knows of someone else looking to sell. How do you plan on driving your 911? that could influence c2 vs c4. As was said above these cars are plenty fast enough to get you into trouble, but the handling around curves is what its all about. Good Luck

Thanks for the advice thus far. I live in Michigan in the US, but it wouldn't see a snowflake. I have other vehicles for that abuse. I will have to a little more reading on the C2 vs C4 thing. As for the PPI, I guess I would have to line something up if I were going to be flying out of State for the car that I want. I'm mechanically inclined (biomedical field tech) and I can usually feel a cars soul when I get in it, lol. Not really, but I have an ability to feel the general condition of a car when I drive them, I've owned a lot of different cars and zero brand new cars. Used car buying isn't new to me. That said, I'd gladly pay the extra cash to have someone check it out before I buy it. That in itself will require some research as to where to go depending on the location of the car I'm looking at.

Dropping the sump plate and doing invasive bore scope of the cylinders in something that you want to have done without question. Too many horror stories of ticking sound starting soon after acquiring new 996, possible masked by thicker oil used by previous owner. You�re basically buying a $20k engine and the rest comes free, approach a purchase with that thought in mind.

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1. Depends on what you plan driving wise. The C4 can easily be converted to RWD and put back to AWD if it came time to sell. 2. Again, depends on what your plans are driving wise. I feel the 300HP at 3,000lb curb weight is a perfect balance. Utilizing another 100+HP would not occur in my own instances. 3. 6MT is very desirable, so it fetches an additional premium. Market is changing what feels daily, so I don't expect them to go down. The herd is thinning as well as years go on. Everyone can give you a subjective opinion on mileage. Some are afraid of low miles, and others are not. To me, the important piece is maintenance history documentation. You may also consider if you want a 996.1 or 996.2 as there are some slight differences.

Good stuff. Thanks everyone. One more rather important question to me. Can you fit 2 sets of golf clubs in a 996? Maybe a set in each back seat with the roof open (cabriolet) and seat belts latched around them? This is one reason I was considering a bigger sports car with an actual trunk. It's pretty much a deal breaker if I can't. So please (even if you're lying) tell me you can...

Have you looked into a Miata?

I just bought a 2000 911 C2 with 52K miles and bought it wrong but I think I'll be OK. I bought mine off Bring A Trailer having spent 6 months watching. I suggest you go there and follow the cars and the comments. All previous sales are listed (past prices are plotted on a graph for 911/996's) so you can research all you want. Many cars you see there will be heavily detailed but don't fall for that (like I did). I could eat off the engine of the car I bought and the dealer who sold it specializes in Porsches, has a strong reputation and over 400 cars sold on BAT. My regrets - not getting a PPI. I'm retired and it's my first toy since my younger days of restoring MGB's, TR250's and '57 Chevys (45 years ago before the family came along). So I've had a few sleepless nights wondering WTH I got myself into but once the car arrived I fell in love. My car has 52K miles and is a 5 speed Tiptronic which I wanted. I have paddle shifters on my Subaru Outback and love driving it. I learned recently that the Subaru engine is a Boxster engine (or it was until at least 2016). Anyway, the paddle shifting is a howl. This car has the original dual row IMS which had a failure rate of less than 1%. I dropped the car off at my Porsche specialist just today for its PPI (Post Purchase Inspection). I can tell he thinks I'm crazy for buying it this way but... C4 vs. C2? These cars are gas pigs. I figure I'm looking at 14 MPG and I can't imagine a C4 gets more than 12. I was told that in the C4, the front and rear wheels turn when cornering so it makes sense they are a plus for the track. If anyone calls me nuts they are likely right as I am learning about these cars. Good luck.

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put the back seats down and 2 sets of clubs will lay there. Long drivers might need to be taken out of the bag and positioned elsewhere near the passenger side.

Considering the cost to potentially replace a motor, a PPI on these cars is not an option as far as I'm concerned. Wherever you wind up going to look for a car, ask on here for a recommendation for a PPI shop. That PPI should, if you can, include dropping the sump and borescoping the cylinder walls to look for scoring. Not all sellers will allow that...and it is considerably more expensive to have done than your usual non-invasive PPI.

You should be getting much better than 14mpg with either model unless you're tracking it daily. I've put 33k miles on my 03 4s in 2 years and don't think i've ever averaged under 20mpg. Not a mechanic so i don't know what might be causing such poor mileage, fuel injectors maybe?

Take a phased approach with a PPI. Metal bits in the oil? Stop, refill, PO gets a free oil change and call it a day. Oil looks good then inspect the pleats in the oil filter. All full of plastic and/or metal bits? Stop, see step 1. If the car passes the first two steps then proceed to drop the sump and check for cylinder scoring with a borescope. Of course if the car gets on the lift and shows evidence of a major wreck, then stop and don't bother doing anything else. Bmchan: You have something amiss, like running too rich, dirty air filter, or bad plugs, clogged cats, to get that kind of mileage. I see mid to high 20s MPG on the highway and low 20s when doing spirited runs through back roads.

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If this is important to you...consider looking into a Targa. I have one and with the rear glass opening its essentially a hatchback. Just another reason why 996 era Targa's are pretty cool. Good luck!

I went with the convertible and tiptronic to satisfy some family requirements, sharing with wife and daughters. I haven't had a chance to load up the clubs yet, because of the covid thing and I only go to the course when the supply house pays and for social reasons. I do enjoy it though. I looked at these till I had information overload and picked something out with my gut, and other than the alternator dying on the way home from the dealer, I wasn't surprised really. So far investigations so far haven't yielded anything scary and I've done plugs, coils, injectors, water pump, LN thermostat, and expansion tank out of a desire to just replace them and know whats been done aside from Carfax history. No error codes so far and 57k miles currently. This was purchased last year at a Ford dealer in NJ. 2003 model.

As others has said get a PPI, I picked up a 1999 C2 below18k miles Cab last month, top wouldnt operate, after owning a few days I took into shop to get repaired, as of today they have replaced pump cylinders motors etc and now today side flap motors gave out, will cost 2k additional to my $6400 bill so far, $8400 Dominic 1999 C2 cab

To me it's pretty simple, you either need: 1) The savings to be able to replace the engine in the event of bore scoring or ims failure. And the price has to be low enough that if you do fix these, you're not underwater on value. 2) pay for an extensive PPI and buy accordingly. 3) just go buy a c5 Corvette. I've had a couple and they are fast, similar interior build quality, fun and don't have the catastrophic engine failures. If you're shopping at the bottom end of the 911 market, I'd buy the best example you can find, regardless of c2 or c4, coupe vs convertible etc.

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totally agree with this. I�ll add, C5 Vette if you need the power, NC 2.5Lswapped Miata (10k-15k on Miata.net) if you want to have a fun, visceral sports car that you can push at street speeds.

Don�t listen to these guys. Do what I did and buy a cheap one on eBay motors sight unseen. Then spend the next few months (I�m on day 2)bsorting out all the things wrong with it. 😎🚗🏁😜

I converted my C4 to RWD and it�s not necessarily a better or worse thing; I actually think I like the C4 better but not at first and it�s hard to compare based on memory. I think the power is perfect. They are still fairly light small cars and I only drive on roads so what the heck I�d do with more power, I don�t know. If you can drive a manual, and like a manual, get a manual. Far more desirable and hold their value. Also, generally, squeeze more out of the engine.

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I agree 100 percent, something is not right. My 99 and every time I drive once everything gets up to temp I take triple digits once, it�s getting about 21. Now I have used a few bottles of Techron, cleaned the KN panel, throttle and the intake using CRC GDI. All my fuel trims are top notch and about 5,000 miles ago the car got new coils, plugs, tubes, etc.

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. Look, I bought my 3/98 coupe 3 months ago. As of today I don�t have $19k in it. Everything is functional. Yes it has a slight ticking noise, based on the state of all other parameters cam deviations, fuel trims, oil consumption, mpg, oil, filter,no soot on exhaust pipes, no smoke, I would say car is at stage one of bore scoring. Anyway, unless you get hard top I would avoid a cab. I also think Gen 1 is better, specially a trotthle car. On my car not knowing I got hr springs, konis, fab speed exhaust, brand new brake pads, within the last year, all fluids replaced, 25,000 mile clutch. Rms, IMs. Full tune up with new plugs, tubes, coils About 5,000 miles ago. I have already put 3,000 miles on it. For the purist modified cars will be less desirable, so if you don�t mind the modifications you can get a good deal because of you buy the car and want to do all of that It�ll cost you a bundle.

$8400 to make a top go up and down...wow...just thinking out loud here, don't mind me...

Buying a used Porsche is not the same as buying a used non-Porsche. There are many scaremongers on here... and they are right to be scaremongering. Budget A LOT for maintenance if you are buying a $20k higher mileage car

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Like I said I was advised stay away from cabs unless you get one with the hard top. I believe the factory hard top delete option saved the buyer $1500 or less.

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Agree. I average 19mpg with about a 1/3 of my commute interstate and I like the right pedal. Remember the good old days when premium was just 20 cents more a gallon?

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She is now 15 years older, has been through a divorce and rehab and needs help making her rent payment, but still a smoke show.

BK, Don't buy anything without a PPI. Nothing. Nada. The 996 is an awesome car. I have had my 02 for 19 years and service the he'll out of it. I have had no problems. I drive it around town, track it, and enjoy the he'll out of it. Plan on keeping it for another 19 years plus. Every year I do a little project on the car to upgrade, replace or enhance something. More fun than any middle aged man can have without getting into trouble. However, most owners are not fanatics like many of us. This means that there is a high probability that they serviced their 996s like any other car, which means the least amount needed to keep it running. This creates a problem for any 20 year old car. My suggestion to you is twofold in finding a 996. 1. Get involved with your local MI PCA region and go to as many coffee, concourse, tech, rally, autocross, DE events that you can, and start networking. Let people know you are looking for a 996 that has been well cared for, and you will be surprised with the results. You will meet lots of great people, and you will be able to source a few cars. People that get actively involved with the PCA care about their Porsche and typically take care of it. 2. Find out who the best Porsche Indy shops are in MI and go visit with them. Tell them you are looking for a well maintained 996 and see If they know any for sale. Again, you will be surprised what you may find. Who knows if a car is in good shape better than the shop that cares for it. Also let them know that you are looking for a shop to perform the PPI. I suspect they will be more than happy to help. To find the shops, you can ask here on Rennlist, or you can ask at the PCA events. We all love to talk about this stuff so you should be able to find a few. Internet purchases are great, but I am not certain why anyone would buy a 996 without getting a PPI from a respected Porsche shop. It may work out if you don't, but unless you have a lot of money to burn, why do it? It's an awesome car. Be great to have you as a fellow owner. Good luck with the search.

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Thank you all for the good information. It seems that I may have to learn to have patience in my search for the right car. Patience has never been my thing. This started off as "I need a sports car" so I've been looking at other cars as well. I just keep coming back to the 996. It feels like anything else would be a compromise. Compromising has never been my thing either. Plus, I already created a Rennlist account, can't turn back now. The search is on for a black on black MT 996, preferably the cab but that isn't a huge deal to me. I look forward to bugging everyone for information over the next few years. Owning a 911 has been a dream since I was 12 years old, drooling over my Motor Trend magazine's.

Even though coupes cost more than cabs upfront, 20 yr old cab mechanisms can quickly make a cab more expensive In the long run. Good luck on your search.

BMchan what did the PPI show? You piqued my curiosity. Which one did you buy on BaT?

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I have been monitoring prices now for the last three months is it me or does it seems that BAT cars sell for more than they are really worth? That�s why I love the recommendation from the guy that say find it thru local PCA and local Porsche mechanic shop,

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...and her name is Sally ,Sarah, and Sabrina.

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Hell, she just needs a good home and someone to spoil her a bit. I'd love to say that I will love her forever, but I can't promise that. I can promise to drive her as hard and fast as she wants to be driven.

....C2 vs C4 I drive a 99 c2 as a daily driver. Blizzaks for the MN winter. There was only one time I wished my c2 was a c4. That said If I was given the option now I would get the c4 just to avoid those very uncomfortable winter situations.

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Thanks for the input. MI winters suck but I have zero intention of driving it in the winter. I joined the PCA "test drive" deal. Basically 40 bucks for 6 months and it allows you to use the classifieds. I'd be a lot more comfortable buying from someone in the PCA, and the prices they have them listed for doesn't seem any higher than other prices I've seen lately.

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go out to the DE events and concourse events. It is free and you don't have to be a PCA member. What's cool about it is that you will see more 996s than you have ever seen in one setting and you can compare and contrast what you want. Another event that is a must do, is the DE at Road America hosted by the PCA Chicago region over Memorial day weekend. Holy cow, you will see a couple hundred 911s. Many are looking for buyers. To get cash to move to the next 911. When you go to one of these events, you determine you want every single model.

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prior to purchasing my 996 i had a charger r/t and a first gen clk55 amg coupe. no, there is no noticeable power deficiency with the 2wd 996 model. i have a convertible that was listed well under 3200 lbs. its far more satisfying than the gt-style amg coupe, which made 360-ish and weighed 3300lbs. ive been told the awd had more cockpit noise, and thats one of the reasons i went with a 99 c2 6m cab. its remarkably quiet with the top up.

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I will let you know when it is done. I'm on vacation this week and the car is at the mechanic's shop.

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Excellent question. The auction process tends to favor the seller over the buyer unless the buyer is disciplined and doesn't allow emotions to enter the process. Those last two minutes clearly favor the seller. I think the BAT auctions are more efficient than, say, ebay because BAT only accepts half the vehicles submitted for auction. But BAT puts "lipstick on a pig" with over-the-top photos and tries to balance the narrative by toning down and standardizing the vehicle descriptions. They try to disclose as much as they can - both good and bad. But damn - those last two minute cycles can be expensive. Been there.

...�more than they are really worth.... Willing seller meets a willing buyer=Fair Market Value Obviously there are outliers but we have seen enough data points over the past several months to suggest that the �market� is telling us to readjust what �we think they are really worth�.

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Reminds me of this ad

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So I got the call from the P-mechanic yesterday. I was having dinner with the family and of course I had to take this call. It was all good news. RMS good. Water pump good. No oil leaks of any kind. No sign of AOS issues. His test drive was excellent. I knew there was front bumper damage with bondo repair and he thinks there might be some other repair work but he was complimentary of the gaps etc. A new front bumper is in my future. Brakes are in great shape. So - all in all I am happy. I was fearing the worst and got the best. The dealer I bought this from on BAT is Meccanic out of New Salem, NY and their BAT name is 1600Veloce. They pride themselves on their reputation and don't sell junk. What would I do differently? This car came with a dearth of history (maintenance records etc,). I would look for a car with more history. My car had a Carfax accident listed in 2008 with no details. I highly recommend this seller and as always - ask lots of questions.

Just figured I'd update. Some things came up, and going into summer with a lot of other plans for vacations and the such I decided to go a different route. I just have too many other things going to spend the 20k+ on a 911. I've come to the budget of around 13k for a sports car and I'm now looking at some 986 Boxsters. I did actually find a 996 gor 12k on Facebook marketplace, but I'm sure it was quite whooped out and I figured I'd get better value with a 986 for the amount I'm looking to spend. I have a blank check that is good for 90 days so I have the time to find the right car. I'll be popping in to the 986 forums for advice as well. I appreciate all the responses here. Thanks.