24 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHWindow Micro Switch
Reported or suspected cause
door actuator
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
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Leading evidence: 'door actuator' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'door actuator' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust right' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I had my dealer replace my regulator and even they didn't get it adjusted right.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
This is very rare, as this microswitch is hardly ever used – most times the car is locked by remote.
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Discussions that suspect a cause
1
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Suspected cause
This can be the handle microswitch, or more likely the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) has stuck.
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Discussions that suspect a cause
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Suspected cause
My window didn't go down at all when opening the door (but it did open and close with the window switches) and the door lock light stayed on, so most likely the lock/unlock switches were stuck.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suspected cause
My window didn't go down at all when opening the door (but it did open and close with the window switches) and the door lock light stayed on, so most likely the lock/unlock switches were stuck.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
24 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
8 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
In my case, I change the whole mechanism and it did the trick.
I have a quick question on which micro switch to order.
My passenger window won't go down when you open the door.
I read up that it will be either the inside or outside door handle micro switch.
How do you know which one it is or do you just replace both? Or are the one in the same.
Thanks
Zenski
It might be the regulator or micro switch. Does it try and drop a little or none when you pull handle? Does it go back up or not at all when you close door? Any extra noise when you lower and raise window?
Mine was just the reg on the pass side. Just changed it the other day. Watch Bentley video, take your time. Make sure you have the plastic trim removal tools and extra door panel clips. The door internals are not at all complicated once you get in there.
"TYPICAL FAULTS
All these microswitches can be problematic, and it is common for one or more to fail at some time. These are some of the common failures and symptoms:
1) The door window won't drop when lifting a handle. This is usually the handle microswitch which has failed.
2) The window drops, but goes back up when the door opens, or when the handle is released. This can be the handle microswitch, or more likely the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) has stuck. Because the system thinks the door is still closed, it sends the window back up.
3) Door window won't go up the last 10mm. This is likely to be the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) stuck in the opposite sense to (2). The system thinks the door is still open, so won't allow the window to go back up. Note that in this case the door will still lock, but you may get a single-beep from the alarm horn.
4) Door will not lock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (d) is broken. This is very rare, as this microswitch is hardly ever used – most times the car is locked by remote.
5) Door will not unlock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (e) is broken. This is also very rare, for the same reason.
6) Door locks, and then immediately unlocks, usually accompanied by a double-beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door locked' microswitch (f). The locking motor physically operates the door lock, but the microswitch to sense this has failed/stuck. The ACM promptly unlocks the car. In this case, the only way to lock the door is to use the emergency locking procedure. Turn the key in the door to the lock position and back three times in quick succession.
7) The door unlocks, but there is a beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door unlocked' microswitch (g). Although the door is unlocked, the ACM has not recognised that. The alarm will not sound, as turning the key in the lock has deactivated it."
Inside handle microswitch: 996.613.123.00 (Same both sides)
Outside handle microswitch: 996.613.125.00 (Left) / 996.613.126.00 (Right)
from Renntech.org
Many detailed write-ups on this located at Renntech.org, join if you havent.
I would be more on the door latch microswitch than regulator.
In the lock mechanism, there is a microsw activated by a cam. The sw's plunger is made of plastic and gets worn. The sw is easy to remove from the lock mechanism and can be replaced if you can find a sw replacement.
In my case, I change the whole mechanism and it did the trick.
I had the same problem as you did.
Once you remove the door interior panel and vapor barrier, you should be able to diagnose fairly well. Krazyk's advice to get the info on renntech.org is wise.
Good luck!
morning everyone,
I ordered the regulator and it is being delivered today.
How hard is this process of replacing it?
I just read the tech article on Pelican and it doesn't look friendly.
Zenski
The hardest parts are: removing the door panel without damaging the leather and reinstalling the glass in the proper position. Make sure to mark it with tape and/or a Sharpie before you remove it.
To check if your door micro switches are faulty you can check their operation either at the door to body connector or at the alarm box ( under seat).
The inside and outside door microswitches for each door are wired in parallel and are normally open ( no handle being operated). When you use inside or outside door handle one switch will close.
You can check operation either at door to body connector ( slacken allen bolt at bottom of connector and seperate. Place ohm meter / lamp across terminals A8 to A3 and check for inside and outside switch operation.
Alternative is to check at alarm box main connector. Remove seat ( 4 bolts) and remove seat electrical harness. Remove alarm box main connector. Check micro switch operation as above. For LHD car Drivers door microswitches are wired between pin 25 and pin 30. Passenger door microswitches are across pin 7 and pin 32
Make sure you use the PLASTIC trim removal tools so you dont damage the trim and panel. Dont reinstall panel until you are satisifed with the fit/adjustment of window glass and reg.
Remember the airbag procedures so you avoid a warning light.
Hi guys,
well got the new regulator in and I can't get the window to adjust. It seems the new regulator doesn't slide down as far as the old one so my window sticks up about 1 1/2". When I tried to adjust it lowers it, but only effects the window when it's up. Basically still won't go down all the way and is now not going up all the way.
Middle picture is the old regulator that slid all the way down. The image on the right is the new one at its lowest postion (still has about 1 to 2" it could go down).
Any thoughts?
Zenski
It has been a while since I've done a regulator, but as I recall the new regulators are shipped with a little plastic plug in the track that is kept in place for a Boxster and removed for a 996. Could that be the issue?
Dennis is exactly right. Look carefully at the front track near the bottom and you will see it. Look at your old one and you will see the one to remove. The window will go all the way down after you remove it. Did you read all the DIY's or use Bentley? That will help.
Hey I thought I'd share since it may save someone a bit of work. I was going to disassemble my door after seeing multiple threads on the door micro switches. My window goes down when interior or exterior handle is lifted but then goes back up when released, indicating the door open/closed switch is faulty. This is located at the bottom of the latch. Anyway I tried spraying a dose of wd40 down the bottom of the latch (using the straw attachment). Two hours later all working again!
I wasn't aware that there are Bentley videos. While I already have the large Bentley book, videos are always a bonus.
Can anybody point me to where I can find these online?
2001 Carrera 4
Passenger window does not lower and raise. It does not matter if the inside or outside handle is used.
Key fob does not lock car. double beep occurs. Only the driver side lock locks with the key. 3 turns of the driver side lock does not lock the passenger door.
From this thread it seems like replacing the passenger door lock assembly. Might be all that is needed.
What else might be needed??? What about replacing - part # 996 613 126 00 M100
When looking for a door lock I read MK1 Pcar is the same as MK5 VW. Is this correct? Is the door lock 8 pin or 9 pin?
Your advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
Post #8 above looks to give insight on diagnosing which mircorswitches are bad. I had a similar issue a while back on the drivers side and decided to bite the bullet and replace with an oem door lock mechanism. Given this part has the lion�s share of the microswitches and overall function, I just went with that and did not replace the door handle microswitch. It�s been a while, but as I recall my window would drop when using the outside handle, but was inconsistent when using the inside handle. Either way, replacement of the door lock mechanism (which also has several microswitches) fixed my issue. Hope that helps.
THANK YOU! Worked for me as well. My window didn't go down at all when opening the door (but it did open and close with the window switches) and the door lock light stayed on, so most likely the lock/unlock switches were stuck. A liberal dose of WD40 down the lock fixed it! Much better than removing the door panel etc.
Where exactly are you spraying? Into the lock itself, or the gap around the lock, or...? My passenger side acts like yours and there's no lock on that side.
You spray into the lock when the door is open, everywhere you can. Operate it a couple of times and spray some more.
Worked for about half a year and then the problem came back, so eventually I did have to have the lock replaced.
I had the same problem on the passengers side door I replaced the door handle Micro switch 2 times and it wasn't the problem. It turned out to be the door actuator. Replaced it and that did the trick!
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