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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHcooling system won't hold vacuum during fill
Reported repair
Run into this and by going back
Reported resolution
1
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0
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Reported fix
I seem to recall someone ran into this and by going back to the stock clamps, solved the issue.
Leading evidence: 'Run into this and by going back' (1 discussions report resolution; 0 report an unsuccessful attempt). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Run into this and by going back' (1 discussions). For that action, 1 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. The most frequently reported fix is 'Run into this and by going back', supported by resolution reports in 1 discussions. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I've checked every hose I disconnected during the motor out motor in process and all of them look and feel tight...
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Then I filled a 20 gallon pail with coolant and that got sucked into my cooling system in 2 minutes - jobs done - no leaks - no issues.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I used my compressor dialled down to 15 psi to pressurize the system and very quickly identified a leaking water pump seal.
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Suggestion
If it's not leaking at the coolant reservoir - the airlift dosn't always seal very well to the flange - I'd try to pressurize the system with some air at say 10-15 PSI and use soap bubbles to check for leaks
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Suggestion
If it's not leaking at the coolant reservoir - the airlift dosn't always seal very well to the flange - I'd try to pressurize the system with some air at say 10-15 PSI and use soap bubbles to check for leaks
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Suggestion · Original poster
I bought a vacuum fill system to replace my coolant and the instruction is clear - draw the system down to negative 25 psi - close the valve - wait 20 sec to confirm the vacuum holds - then suck the coolant into the system using the negative pressure.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I bought a vacuum fill system to replace my coolant and the instruction is clear - draw the system down to negative 25 psi - close the valve - wait 20 sec to confirm the vacuum holds - then suck the coolant into the system using the negative pressure.
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23 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Gents;
I had my motor and trans out to fix an oil leak and replace my trans mount and it's all back in now - everything looks good.
I bought a vacuum fill system to replace my coolant and the instruction is clear - draw the system down to negative 25 psi - close the valve - wait 20 sec to confirm the vacuum holds - then suck the coolant into the system using the negative pressure.
Problem is that my vacuum drops from negative 25 to about negative 5 over a period of a minute, then down to zero over the next half hour.
So evidently I have a leak.
I've checked every hose I disconnected during the motor out motor in process and all of them look and feel tight...
Who has run into this and what have you done ??
Thanks
It means you get to do it twice ! Fun ? lol
Go ahead and fill as best you can,......then pressurize the system to 19psi with proper tool, then find/fix leak, then drain and fill again with "air lift tool"..( it should now hold vacuum)
In my limited experience with airlift, the time it held vacuum was close but maybe not exact for what the instructions asked for, still it pulled in what it needed and has been fine so far. Tried this on a 20 yr old generator, not so much. Not the fault of the tool. Like any �wonder tool�, it probably takes some experience to get used to it and gain some experience. I�m satisfied with mine and will probably use it more at work.
If it's not leaking at the coolant reservoir - the airlift dosn't always seal very well to the flange - I'd try to pressurize the system with some air at say 10-15 PSI and use soap bubbles to check for leaks
Of course being the crafty air conditioning tech I am I'd probably use a whiff of R134a and go after it with my refrigerant sniffer....
Which tool are you using? I tried to save a few bucks and bought the POS schwaben tool from ECS tuning. Absolutely garbage. Gauge was super unreliable out of the box, jumped all over the place when you tapped it. None of the fitting would get a good seal on the coolant reservoir either. Thought maybe a bad one slipped by quality control so I returned it for another. Same crap with the replacement. Returned it and bought the Uview Airlift as I should have originally for marginally more money.
Airlift worked like a charm out of the box. It�s not worth the hassle. Buy once, cry once as they say.
Hi - yes I bought the airlift. Made in Canada even.
It seems like it's making a good seal ...more importantly I get gurgling coming from the inlet at the bottom of the reservoir...if it was leaking at the neck I don't think i would be getting that.
thanks though
That is my next step - throw some pressure at it and use soap solution.
Guess I have to get a new cap and drill a hole in my old one for a tap unless the craft aircon guy has a better idea?
.
One more question...does the Air Oil separator have a coolant line going into it ?
There could be a problem there (which would be a bitch to deal with).
Thanks
Well -
With the car up on my hoist I can get a really good look at all the connections to the AOS and I gotta say they look just fine.
Next step is to try to get some positive pressure into the system ...look for leaks that way.
Any tips out there other than modifying up a reservoir cap ?
Thanks yelcab and porschetech3 - I missed that post while scrolling my phone.
19psi was the other piece of info I was needing.
Porschetech3 - if you're reading this - any tips on how to make a good pressure seal at the reservoir neck ?
How does the pressure tester make the seal ?
I'm now thinking a t-union on one of the hoses....
Thanks gents
Nevermind = I see them on amazon and of course they have adapters to fit the tank.
$100 or less for a cheap one.
Thanks
Thanks my man but it's for sure not the cap because the vacuum tester fits in the neck of the reservoir bottle in place of the cap.
That's not to say my cap isn't bad -and in fact my plan is to buy a new one so I can make a pressure tester out of my old one...
I will post an update when i get to that project - work is killing me at the moment.
Cheers
Looks like Stant may have stopped making these - everyone I can find is NLA or back ordered with no date.
I'm in Canada too which makes it even harder to find stuff like this...
Dang.
OK guys - I ended up taking my old cap and modifying it into a pressure cap. Then I got some fittings and valves and a $5 pressure gauge and I fabbed up a pressure tester of my own ($16 total). I used my compressor dialled down to 15 psi to pressurize the system and very quickly identified a leaking water pump seal.
I replaced that water pump and the system held 26 inches of vacuum no problem after that.
Then I filled a 20 gallon pail with coolant and that got sucked into my cooling system in 2 minutes - jobs done - no leaks - no issues.
Thanks for the guidance.
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