air conditioning hose

I am a newbie, this is my first post... I posted this a few minutes ago, but I cant find the post. Last weekend, we took our new to us 996 to the track. The car is basically stock, but we did a few upgrades (Olhin coil overs, RSS rear links and engine mounts. short shifter). The car ran very well on the track, until it spun out and caught fire. It wasn't a big fire, but it did melt most of the air box. I think what happened was the fan belt broke and whipped around and cut a slice in the low pressure air conditioning line (compressor hose). the oil and refrigerant dumped out onto the exhaust and caught fire. 1. have you ever heard of the belt breaking and slicing the compressor line? 2. would all the refrigerate have come out? can I start the car without first replacing the hose? 3. I believe its the low pressure line as its a little bigger and on the right side of the compressor. I can see where the line starts at the compressor, but I can quite find where it terminates. What part number is this line? and where can I get it? Thanks for your help, hopefully this post shows up somewhere in the forum. Mike Poretti

Check out Autoatlanta for parts diagrams: http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p..._911_parts.php This is the specific page you probably want: http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=813-25

Sounds bad. Here is a link to the refrigerant hoses. It takes specialized equipment to recharge the refrigerant system with the right type and amount. http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=813-25

I haven't heard of a belt breaking and slicing the A/C hose and starting a fire after a track spin......are you sure that's what happened? A frail belt should have been caught on Track Prep Inspection. I HAVE seen the big brown cam plug on 996.2 engines pop out on a track spin, tangle up in the belt, and dump enough oil to start small fire though..

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I can�t really find any oil missing, the engine oil is full, the power steering fluid is full, I am not sure what the heck happened or why the belt broke (it was kind of hard, but not frayed) something cut a slice in the compressor hose...so I assume that�s what caused the fire, but I don�t know. where�s the big brown cam plug?

Will I need to drop the engine to replace the compressor line? I can figure out where the end is

You were absolutely right.....the cam plug on the passenger side is missing......now I can sleep again. Thank you so much. after replacement of the cam plug, do I need to worry about anything else?

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Man skip was in point with this one. U deff have to do an oil change but other then that it sounds like the damage is external. Although u may have to investigate why the plug popped out. U may have a failed aos or u overwelmed it with oil and built up too much crank case pressure. Not sure on changing the ac line but it looks like the soft lines have bolt together connections in the engine bay. U probably just have to pull the ac compressor. http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...-05�ion=813-25

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I have been told I have Super-Natural Powers when it comes to diagnosing/knowing whats going on with engines. Since you are a Newby, you got some catching up to do, and need to stick around a while, and keep posting. Your event is not a common one, but is a very interesting one and can lead to some very good data for future owners, if you will do the tests and report the data. You need to install a new big brown cam plug and do a "blow-by test" with a Manometer test kit like is shown in my Thread "Engine Health Blow-by Test" ..and report the data. And need to install a UAOS crankcase breather kit after/during the data is collected .( yea I know it a selfish plug of my Invention/product). The A/C hose is very thick rubber and the damage my be just cosmetic, post pics and test A/C pressure to see if the system is still charged. Also you need to change the Title to " Not air conditioner hose, but very interesting".. and delete the duplicate thread

You might want to check Type 2 overrevs. The belt separating could be due to a money shift. Or it could be because the A/C compressor seized up due to the pre-existing hole in the hose.

I am happy to do the research and do the blow-by testing . There is no question about the AC hose being cut, its a slice that you can stick your finger in, Please see picture below. I still cannot find the end point of that AC hose...the part seems to be about $600...which makes me think that I need to drop the engine to replace or remove and repair...any ideas? I am attaching the

Whoa...and wow!! Your AC line is the least of your worries with all that stuff burned up. You've got a lot of work ahead of you. Never seen anything like that.

I would definitely drop the motor and do it right.

It's really not as bad as it looks. The picture was before I power washed it. Ordered a new trunk lid, air box, belt, pulleys and cam plugs....and we will be most of the way to completion. Just need to figure out the ac hose replacement. I think its a bit of labor and about $1,000. (plus the AC hose) This is a track car with 120k miles, not a beauty queen...although, she was pretty nice prior to the fire. Its a good lesson to keep an eye on your cam plugs....the oil drips straight onto the exhaust and does not end well. Can anyone tell me were the AC hose connection is?

I think u can access the other side of that line from the bottom. Just follow it down the firewall. Also the price in that hose is steep. I would try an porsche auto dismantler. The used part would be fine, just install new o-rings.

I got the new brown plugs, but I cannot seem to find instruction on how to properly put them in. Should I do both or just the one that popped out. I have completed the re-painting and replaced all the burnt bits. I even bought a nanometer to test vacuum as requested. Based on those results we will figure out if the AOS needs replacing. The job seems to be a PITA, so I don't want to do it unless I have to. I am sure I will need a clutch in the future and I don't think the IMS was ever done...although the car has 110k miles and didn't leak or burn any oil. I hope to have her running by tomorrow. Do I just tap the new plug in? Is there any sealant?

NO sealant.... did i say that loud enough? Just tap it in and if the others r tight and seated u would just change the 1.

I got everything put back together and started her up.....started up no problem, but I have no throttle control . Also a few seconds after I let my foot off the clutch the engine dies. also got a failed ABS alert....I will save and clear all codes. Could the throttle control have gotten damaged in the fire ? It does show some heat damage or do I just need to clear the codes any ides?

Dont remeber which year u have but if its y2k or newer it has a fly by wire gas pedal. Search for e-gas recalibration. Its a simple procedure and the first plase i would start. Also check for more burn wires.

Turn the engine off & the key on. Use your Durametric to read all the engine sensor values and make sure they make sense - such as a engine temperature about equal to room temperature and so on. Use the gas pedal to move the throttle and see if the throttle responds correctly. Use the Durametric activations to activate every engine part and make sure that it clicks or turns on.

Ok thanks. I don't have a Durametrc, I do have a Icarsoft CR pro which may allow me do that (although I can not see engine revs with it) I do not think the gas pedal is moving the throttle...but I am not certain as I didnt have anybody to check, but for sure pushing the pedal has no effect on rpm

The "Throttle Jacking Unit" (ie throttle body) was probably damaged/stuck from the extreme heat ( IF the wiring is ok ) . there should a code indicating to that effect.

I was thinking the same thing. The throttle body is pretty cheap. Is it just plug and play?

Yes its a simple swap. What year is your car?

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it�s a 2003 should I buy the Bosche parts or the cheaper stuff?

Bosch but i would see if the computer is recieving any info and reinspect the wires. you need to find a scanner that can see the trottle position. U have an e-gas set up. Try a recalibration first.

I don't have the Durametric scanner. I do have a Icarsoft CR pro scanner, I think it will check the throttle position....but I'm not sure. I dont think it does DME

Get yourself a Bentley manual. It will have the wiring diagrams. U can test continuety from the sensor plug to the computer. After a fire i would supect the harness as well as the sensor and u would rule it our before i spent money on something may not need.

Well, I ordered the Bentley manual as suggested. I will check wiring schematics once I receive the book. in the meantime, I�d still like to get it running properly. Back story, the car spun out on the track into the dirt. Then, started fire, fortunately the track guys were there and quickly put out the fire. We found out later with the help of Protec3, that the passenger side cam plug blew out and released enough oil on to the exhaust that it sparked a flame. The damage wasn�t that bad, melted air box and engine compartment fan, serpentine belt and a few wires with melted insulation. I have done the necessary clean up and painting...it looks pretty much normal. i replaced the following: belt airbox exhaust fan maf sensor throttle body and any wiring that look like it got too hot the car now runs, but very rough...and only at about 500 rpms, with some surging...it does not recognize the throttle pedal. it is showing the following codes P1120 throttle plate P1138 throttle position sensor 1 P1140 throttle potentiometer 2 P2135 throttle pedal potentiometer P0223 Accelerator pedal potentiometer 2 and finally...the ABS failed light is on with the following code...4276 valve relay Can anybody help? I�d really like to get off the lift and back on the track. how do I get the throttle working?

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Actually, I went through this same issue and Skip recommends (3M yellow) sealant. A failing AOS (diagnosed by Jake) turned out to be the culprit. Excessive crankcase pressure was blowing my cam bore plugs out. Popped a CAM/Oil Pump Plug...Common? - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums "Bill, I would not install that dry even though Porsche and Bentley both say so. I have seen too many of them pop out. If you are not going to fashion a retaining plate to hold them in, then use 3-M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive -Yellow version, it is the original "Gorilla Snot" , you will see why after you use it..."

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Yep seen this many times on the 3.6 with big cam plugs. Had a buddy of mine with 996 track car have the exact same thing happen, his fire was not as big though, track crew put it out quick. He spun and went "both feet in " but accidentally was on the throttle also, and hitting the rev-limiter while in the spin. Big Brown cam plug poped out and the oil lit up. Back in the mid 2000's TRG ie "The Racers Group" would come to our dealership a week or so ahead of the Porsche 250 with a stable of 996/997 Koni Series GS Class and ST Class race cars in five 18 wheelers. They would park/camp in the parking lot and use our shop at night ( sometimes we would give them some space during the day if they were behind) to race prep the cars for the 250 (after leaving the last track the week before on the circuit). All the 3.6 and 3.8 had "retainer plates" holding the big brown cam plugs in, it was that bad. Of course they ran those cars hard and very long and didn't want to change/re-fresh engines untill it was very tired. I was also in charge of a fleet of 60 Porsche Sport Driving School cars. Blow-by pressure is what pops them out( or AOS not eliminating the blow-by pressure adequately ), and being twice the size of the green 996.1 cam plugs , the big brown cam plugs have double the "pounds per square inch" on them.