17 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHWhat would you do?
Leading reported evidence
Tighten bolt
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Looks like previous shop tightened bolt to much and cracked this spot.
Leading evidence: 'Tighten bolt' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Repair hole' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Looks like the wrong bolt was used (too long) and it bottomed out before tightening and cracked the boss.
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Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion
Its a simple repair for a machine shop or if u have a friend that can tig real well u can rent a good machine for about $150 a day.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
17 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
The fact that it's not leaking anything is good...Like others have said (and you have confirmed) it's best to have it fixed.
Hello Rennlisters,
Ok here goes... I bought my car 5 years ago, 2003 C4 convertible. Had IMS done, clutch RMS by a local shop. I have recently pulled my motor to do some maintenance myself. I was looking over the motor/tranny today and discovered this!! Looks like previous shop tightened bolt to much and cracked this spot. Should I leave it? Should I try some JB Weld? Thanks for the help.
If it ain't leaking oil or coolant, I would leave it alone. Sucks that you know it is there and will have to live with that. The only other option I can think of is to pull the entire engine apart and have that crack welded.
Not sure where you are located, but I've seen similar damage on engines that weren't porsche... mainly my boats motor....
If you are in northern climates... water can get into some pretty small cracks, and the freezing/melting can slowly expand it over time and crack the bolt housing. For me it happened with the starter motor housing.
You have the motor out... I'm not exactly sure where that is.. it looks like the transmission bell housing? A machine shop could weld and re-tap that for short money. Thats what I've done in the past....
Thats one of the bell housing bolts. That same one was siezed up solid in mine. Im guessing the same happened in yours but they went too hard on the inpact.
jb weld will do nothing to hold that together. i think u have 2 choices:
1. Leave it alone
2. Weld it and repair the hole.
I wouid do #2 but i am real peticular about things like this. The trans was designed to hang off the motor with the correct amount of bolts. Any less stresses the system.
Its a simple repair for a machine shop or if u have a friend that can tig real well u can rent a good machine for about $150 a day. Then i would drill out the threads and helicoil the hole.
Its a very inconvienient gift from the po.
Ugh..thanks. Your responses were what I was afraid they would be. I am pretty **** about my cars so I guess I will get it repaired. To this day I still wondered why the mechanic called me a week later and asked how everything was going. It made me think that he was hoping he had gotten away with something. I guess he did as it is now my problem.
Is the bolt tight or does it just spin? Whoever ran that up with an impact may not even know they broke it like that if it actually cinched up. Either way...that's a bummer and certainly a dilemma. I'd have to fix it though.
Have you contacted the mechanic / shop? If they were following up with you at that point it would be worthwhile to follow up with them now.
Not saying they will do anything, but nothing ventured, nothing gained.
jb
How long ago was the previous work done? I certainly wouldn't expect the shop to acknowledge their fu. The fact that it's not leaking anything is good...Like others have said (and you have confirmed) it's best to have it fixed. Bummer how much work is involved to tear the engine down to the point needed to fix it properly. Have you had anybody who does that type of work look at it, or give you an estimate? If they could come to your shop and do it it would save a ton of time and money. I suppose if you tear it all the way down to the case half it would be simple enough to bring to a local machine shop who could do a great job - if would also give you the opportunity to address any internal issues (cam chain pads, chain tensioner paddles/pads etc...) while it's apart. Good luck
So I had the previous work done 5+ years ago. The shop says they do not remember anything happening...of course! The picture below is the area that has been affected and it appears the crack is above the bolt area. I have a engine builder stopping by next week to take a look at it. Will let you know what he says.
Yeah, the spot is obvious from original photo. It's clearly just the boss for that bolt that's cracked. The question is how close are the water/oil jackets that feed the oil cooler - if not very close it should be a fairly simple weld job - Aluminum is tricky though... I would want someone with lots of good experience with similar jobs.
Looks like the wrong bolt was used (too long) and it bottomed out before tightening and cracked the boss. Of course no telling if it was 5 years ago, or 10 years ago or even 20.
not trying to contradict the master but on my motor that was a through hole. Im pretty sure thats the problem, the bolt corrods because of the open end and when the bolt is backed out the bad thresds ceack the housing.
You are correct the end if the bolt is exposed to the elements. I checked to see if the bolt was tight and it is. My fear here is that I am going to be opening a can of worms if i try and take the bolt out... what to do what to do....
U can cut the head off the bolt thats how mine was. They must have backed it ur a half inch then it seized. They used a nut to secure it to the bh.
Send it to the machine shop with what is left of the bolt and let them deal with it.
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