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YOUR RESEARCHQuick question on IMS cam lock
Leading reported evidence
Install bearing
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
The IMS was perfectly centered as I installed new bearing.
Leading evidence: 'Install bearing' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Install bearing' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
You installed cam lock on tensioner on head that was removed the one located closest to flywheel(bank1), the other tensioner is under ac compressor you don't have to removed it unless IMS just wont come out.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
All the pics I have seen show the lock installed on the driver's side near the rear of the car, so that's what I did.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I did removed all cam plugs on bank 2 I just used a sharpie to mark cam location just in case chain slip.
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You installed cam lock on tensioner on head that was removed the one located closest to flywheel(bank1), the other tensioner is under ac compressor you don't have to removed it unless IMS just wont come out.
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Suggestion
101 projects has you install 3 set screws by rotating shaft off of TDC I spoke to Pelican guy who says instructions not right I can get 2 set screws in at TDC this will also tie down shaft.
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Suggestion
Using LN tool kit I made a 2nd tool using aluminum plate for bank 4-6.LN engineering talks about removing 3 rd tensioner if needed and Pelican 101 projects has you remove all three.
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I guess it depends on what your doing? For my IMSB I locked both sides and the crank. That would be the best thing to do. You can easily reach both sides to install the locks.
Thanks KrazyK for your response. I'm replacing the IMS bearing. I want to know if I HAVE to lock both sides. The LNE kit only came with one lock and I used it to lock the driver's side cam. I don't want to take it off and lock the right rear cam if I don't have to.
Anyone who has successfully replaced their IMS using only one lock, I would appreciate your input.
I did an IMS LNE retrofit kit and the tool kit comes with one cam lock. You installed cam lock on tensioner on head that was removed the one located closest to flywheel(bank1), the other tensioner is under ac compressor you don't have to removed it unless IMS just wont come out. I did removed all cam plugs on bank 2 I just used a sharpie to mark cam location just in case chain slip.
It's my own fault - I should have read thru the instructions more carefully. All the pics I have seen show the lock installed on the driver's side near the rear of the car, so that's what I did. The LNE instructions say to lock the right side nearest the flywheel.
It was a major pain to install the lock so I'm wondering if it's really necessary to remove it and move it to the other head or if locking the one head where it's already installed is adequate.
You have the same engine I do. In my kit, one lock is for both cams, the other lock only locks one cam making it easier to install on that side. Its certainly safer to lock both banks. Im in orange (90 miles from you). If your not in a hurry, you want me to send you both locks or run em over to you? I have extra cam plugs too.
Well the answer is the lock LNE provides for the 3.6 only works on the 1-3 driver side cams at the pully side. The boss where the ground cable attaches apparently protrudes further from the centerline of the camshafts on the 4-6 bank than the boss on the 1-3 bank because when I inserted the lock it fit in the upper cam but was about a 1/4" away from fitting in the lower cam but the boss prevented it from inserting into the groove.
The one-sided lock for the 3.4 will not fit inside the cam slot on the 3.6 - it is too wide -so that will not work.
Thats odd. Maybe my kit is not the same because I was able to lock both banks. I do remember being able to use both locks but dont recall the sizes. I will look when I get home. If you remove two tensioners, lock the crank, and one bank, maybe thats enough. I do remember some saying to remove all three tensioners but the top side one is PITA. I locked both sides, crank, removed two tensioners, and nothing moved. The IMS was perfectly centered as I installed new bearing. I think I locked 4-6 with the single lock.
Pics of the rear of engine 4-6 bank camshafts.
Both cams aligned:
IMG_0422.jpg
Bottom cam - tool will not align (it only fits one way) into the groove:
IMG_0425.jpg
Top cam with tool inserted and up against the boss:
IMG_0427.jpg
I just got my engine back in. Please, please dont ask me to pop the cam plugs and install my locks!
You pic links dont work. I will look when I get home. Relax and dont get in a hurry. Its great that your doing this.
Using LN tool kit I made a 2nd tool using aluminum plate for bank 4-6.LN engineering talks about removing 3 rd tensioner if needed and Pelican 101 projects has you remove all three. 101 projects has you install 3 set screws by rotating shaft off of TDC I spoke to Pelican guy who says instructions not right I can get 2 set screws in at TDC this will also tie down shaft. Page 78 of 101 projects calls for tensioners to lok same with 32 mm head my third appears to be about 5/8 hex female which is below AC compressor and says nudge out of way. removed 2 bolts do I also remove brackets is this necessary?
The difference is one set of directions were written by the people who developed the procedure and have personally carried it out more than 300 times.
Locking the shaft works decent IF you don't have chain wrap concerns or don't have any stretched chains or lazy tensioners. Knowing what I know about these engines I'd never just lock the shaft, and I know what happened the one the that I did.
Your third tensioner looks different because you have a 3 chain engine, and the 101 book doesn't go over the differences in 3 and 5 chain engines specifically. All 3 chain engines utilize a 14mm internal hex for their tensioner.
The reason why the 3rd tensioner removal isn't required is because it is opposite the IMSB and has proven not to exert any mechanical force on the unit. This knowledge was acquired from direct experience having developed all the tools and the procedure first hand.
YES, 100% YES. Just trying to be clear. U also need to pin the crank pulley and pull all 3 chain tensioners.
Visit LN Engineerjngs web site and look up the proceedure for replacing the imsb. This will spell out what u have to do.
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