2004 996 power steering hose leak

Well, 7 years or so since acquiring my 28k mile two owner 2004 996 AE ride. Since purchase ive had added/upgraded a few things; IMSS, PSS!0s, 6GT3 ride height and alignment, Aero 996.2 rear wing, 6GT3 polished by Al Reed wheels, 6GT3 Euro seats with Alcantara inserts etc... love this car but dont drive it much. One of too many. Sneaking up on 34k miles. Anyhow, small weep from high pressure power steering line mid way down. The hose in engine compartment right where rubber hose crimps to metal U shaped line behind airbox about halfway down. No fluid on garage floor. But during annual oil service while on lift I noticed a sticky film on coolant hose bottom passenger side. Pulled air box to get better look and you could see fluid on top of metal crimp on rubber hose. Must be under pressure coming up and over the bowl/lip on crimp. Not much as it doesnt leave a drop on floor but its weeping. I always check PS fluids and oil and its not enough to reduce level in reservoir, yet. Thats the back story. Local Indy wants 5 hours labor and 350.00 for the hose. SoCal Indy shop rates are 185 - 225 an hour so not a small bill. Question Anyone else experience this? What did you pay or did you DIY? If a pro is 5 hours I am not sure I want to tackle this one. I do my brakes, plugs, mufflers, sparky, coils, oil, trans fluids etc... but this looks like a big job. Helpful comments and tips appreciated.

DIY! Porsche STEERING GEAR & LINKAGE. PUMP & HOSES. (porscheatlantaperimeterparts.com)

Thats probably the easiest ps line to change. I would say 2 hrs max if u r handy

Thanks 808Bill and De Jeeper De, have you done it? Tips? Looks like you must pull ac compressor to get to it?

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I dont think u need to pull the compressor. I did a bunch of maintenance last spring, it included pulling the power steering pump. I had the high pressure line off the pump but not removed. I also had the compressor loose but if i remember correctly there is a retainer tab off the head below the ac compressor and it does not need to be removed. The low pressure line runs under the ac compressor. U can get to that if u unbolt it and just shift the compressor. Pull the airbox it takes 30 sec and take a look at the line. I have to pull the ps pulley to see the fitting. But u can see the retainer tab. Edit: looing at the pic u may have to unbolt and shift which is not that hard

weep is where the hose (rubber) meets the metal line at pic you posted nearest pulley. I see you removed the coolant hose that would be a great help also. I assume it connects at this junction? Does anyone know how it comes apart? I dont see a nut or a connection point?

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no look at the pet drawing from autoatlanta it goes from the pump to the connection thats mounted to the underside of the frunk deck. That interface is a permanately sweged connection and should not weap.

Got it. That helps a lot. Thank you. Plan to pull apart this weekend.

I have this same issue. Steering whine and all this mess. Bentley manual says AC compressor has to be unscrewed and moved aside for sure. I plan on tackling this also ....it�s a labor intensive and C19 hurting the money pot still so it�s DIM. Any tips appreciated and I�ll do the same.

Its pretty straight foward of a repair. I have my motor out now and can take a more complete pic of the hose for u.

Great Much appreciated pictures of connections would be helpful

Hope you guys don�t mind if I piggyback on this thread...)

Hey...hope everyone staying safe. I decided to pull the PS pump out and get it over with. The only way to get to the lines so 39 degrees ( hit your knuckles on cold steel and you’ll remember this day.) or no...here we go. Drained reservoir and removed. After 15 years it didn’t cooperate fully but a hard pull and it released...seems in good shape. It’s pretty straight forward but if using Bentley service manual like I am their sequencing can get turned around but the AC compressor bolt access is challenging to say the least. Found one YT video that certainly identifies the issue of the “hidden bolt” that secures the AC compressor bu5 I don’t have a $200 boroscope but it gave me an idea. If I can get the Blink camera behind the intake manifolds runners I should be able to see placing the 13 mm socket . Attempt in daylight 2moro.....post up then...brrrrr..hehe.

U dont have to pull the pump. Just pull off the pully and lift cimpressor up. U may have to unbolt the low pressure line bracket too.

[Dejeeper these picture are extremely helpful. I�m hoping you�re right and it�s the lines leaking and not a defective pump and I have to proceed no further. Once I get to the point you�re at with the AC compressor out of the way. My blink WiFi would�nt let me sit outside by the car with my phone; only inside house therefore couldn�t capture good enough image hands on....did see the hex bolt. Looked on Amazon and borescopes are $40-200 so ordered one so it can neck around behind the compressor. I felt I had a socket on it but don�t want to strip it. A lot of these bolts on 997 were changed to different head...easier to remove. Unless your Reed Richards...F4...rubber fingers.... I see from picture the PS line with metal to rubber connection is where I appear to have leak. On another note you have rear oil pump cover also removed...any issues there. I hear they leak. Thanks Stay safe. Good day....keeps telling me message too short why I�m rambling...=De Jeeper;17205059]U dont have to pull the pump. Just pull off the pully and lift cimpressor up. U may have to unbolt the low pressure line bracket too. [/QUOTE]

Im finishing up a variocam pad replacement so i had the cam covers off. I did not have a leak at the oil pump but i did buy new o-rings as they were cheap.

Who knew right...Tom Brady taking the Bucs to the Super Bowl game...in his first year. If KC lets him get anywhere close they will be disappointed this year. You have to give him some Goat props if they win. So the borescope came in and it’s a impressive piece of equipment. Didn’t charge up over night...big mistake. 10 minutes set up and I’m on rat patrol. ...Tooling around inside the engine bay and screw shows up plain as day(see pics). Took some getting used to moving in reverse. Getting the socket line up was easy once it could be seen and felt the resistance in the ratchet ...and then the camera ran out of juice. Ok...blind again but enough visual to find the screw. Keep unscrewing while scope recharging. Got it back up and running. It was a mistake getting a hand held. I needed my hand but it was OK. The line the camera is attached to is very stiff. When I need the image to remain still so I can fit a tool if you bump the line it will throw your screen off. Once bolt unscrewed still difficult due to space constraints to get it out so AC compressor will move forward to expose power steering lines. what’s eating up time wnd frustration is the bolt won’t back out...it needs help. It’s cramped so it’s time consuming to make 100:turns by hand. I’ll try to wrap a hook around it and should pull up. Can’t slide compressor forward until all 3 screws out. Car builder should have used a long bolt or so ether fixation...different head on bolt...once I get it clear can finish this repair. , Boy...the plenum looks really easy to get to...hmmm. IPD on the wish list

Successfully removed the AC compressor. I have puddles of fluid...appears to be PS fluid...nearest connection is return hose...bunch of these so will remove mine to get proper part numbers if that is required. To test these lines can I reinstall the reservoir ..key up and turn steering wheel. Will this provoke a leak? Closest connection...lot of fluid buildup and dirt here...the culprit? Pool of fluid

So the return line going into the back of the resi is a big pkta. Its a quick disco with o-rings. Porsche does not spec the o-rings or sell them. U had a local hydaulic shop match them but im not 100% they r holding. I have to get the motor back in and run it. Turning the wheel without the motor running probably wont put enough pressure on the system to cause a leak. There was a good thread about the low pressure return line. Ill see if u can find it. Here u go. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/1215740-power-steering-lower-reservoir-leaking-2.html

Hey...thanks...that�s some good info about the return line. 3 o rings...hmmmm. They sell the line but not the rings. Doggone Porsche...if we had 356s it would be available... Thanks ...getting them off today hopefully and see what shape they are in. Got a puddle of fluid underneath that connection so pump and resi appear in good shape. Seeing these lines with a discount around $150 each originally over $200. Once get out can get part number

The return line attachment in the rear of the resi is dry (so wondering if it’s my supply line that is damaged. Along its run under the AC compressor(the one toward the rear is very damp also. The the bottom of resi is damp...very damp. So my quandary is do I even need to fool with the return....just the supply. I could just do that. The impression I got from you dejeepe4 isvth3vproblem was the connection to the resi...the one with all the o rings . I’m going to look closer with the borescope . I would hat3 to just do one and not fix the leaking.... I had a consult with a competent Porsche mechanic and he made a good point. Which one had a puddle on the floor or other structure underneath it. That’s the supply. I’m going to start there...doesn’t mean won’t have to go further however...return and or pump itself.

Yes only the return is a push in quick disco. The hp one has a 17mm fitting with an o-ring that is on the fitting like a normal ps line. Also make sure the resi extension is fully on and the nut is tight. Its hard to get your hands on it.

Still trying to diagnose if it’s lines or the pump. Removing the HP line showing the wetness around it at the rubber areas. Removing pump end with 17mm easy but the other end fitting won’t budge. It appear to have two 15 mm fittings which should counter screw but don’t. I’m reaching in from the back and only getting my hand on sides and either I’m weak or there is another catch. If motor is put and your above this connection it’s probably easy to get leverage. Any suggestions appreciated.

I had to drop the motor to get enough on the wrenches to break the connector free. It is 2-15mm wrenches. Putting together is much easier as u screw the fitting back in per the proceedure and just stab the line in

Can’t seem to find our post. I’m having difficult time getting fitting to turn and open. I know you suggest dropping engine. Surprising thing is when I follow Bentley service manual procedure for dropping engine one of first items to remove is the power steering lines while motor is still in the car. So I kept trying and the fitting turned me thing I had it but now the entire fitting turns on the line going into the body...something broke inside the fitting. I hope that doesn’t mean I have to replace the second run.ugh... any thoughts on that helpful fellow enthusiasts

U probably need 15mm line wrenches. They will give u enough force on the 2 nuts without slipping. I dont think the nut closest to the front of the car should spin. The rear portion if the line could spin.

I had one line and another supposedly new fangled non slip but you’re right. Two line will be bettter. Hopefully it’s rotating doesn’t mean I broke it. When you separated your the ends stayed on the line. If you notice in this picture from the Bentley manual the end that I’m referring to as “spinning on the line”...this guy is holding it in his hand talking about putting it back together with a inner lock

Looks like I’m leaning toward dropping the engine a little. Now most procedures go through unhooking all the electronics but if doing a small lowering is this like doing a water pump where after supporting the engine with a jack the cat converter bracket is removed and the engine carrier bracket is loosened..(.pumplower )an$Then there is after supporting the engine removing engine mount bolts and lower engine enough to get at those PS lines(add a IPD plenum...wish list)...call this (EM lower...) is it pumplower or EM lower These method don’t require all the harness removal....hoping not to have to go that far. Make sense ?

Yes that should work. U can also pull the pass side intake. That side is much easier since there is no aos behind it. It was able to do it without dropping the motor last summer. Sounds a little extream to get to a ps hose but access is key.

I’ve resigned myself to the fact that I need more space. I’ve changed the mounts and the water pump so what else is new. And Yea...all the intake and stuff is off. Are you referring to access to the motor mounts by the and SAI pump as opposed to AOS? it rainy and cold and not motivated ...next dry day I’ll be back on it. Need a shelterlogic....

I meant that the passenger side intake is easier to get off because the aos does not block the back bolt. I was saying to do this to access the ps fitting, and it would allow more room so the ac compressor can get farther out of the way when replacing the ps lines.

Where I am...Yes...I got that done. AC compressor out of the way. PS fluid appears to be gathered around high pressure supply line...some “dampness around bottom of rear of pump where return line enters. I removed the reservoir and it appears to have no damage. I only ever seen a leak video that had PS fluid coming out but system was under pressure. I’m not hooked up so difficult to see what to fix. Most evidence points to HP supply line. There is nothing a lot of room to fit 2 15 mm flare wrenches and get torque. I dropped the engine today 4-6/inches and removed the wiring harness and connectors out of the way. I still can’t get that connection to crack open. I’m going to give it another try before I completely remove engine so someone can get above this connection. The wierd thing is the Bentley guide certainly seems to suggest these lines are disconnected prior to a removal...it’s CONFUSING.if a total removal required I’ll need to get some kind of lowering setup which wasn’t in the budget for this job...may have to wait. The return lines are19 mm connectors ad well

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sorry i dont know how else i can help here. I used 2 line wrenches and arranged them about 15* apart, then sqeezed them together. Make sure u sqeeze in the correct direction. mine just popped free.

In an earlier post I thought an attempt to disconnect the PS connector was successful ..”I got it”I thought as it turn 360 degrees and the entire HP supply line turned. It wasn’t the one side on the other it was the entire connector turning on the line. I need to test to see if th3 supply line will turn on the connector. I believe it will. I5 appears it is normal for this to turn because it a rigid line not flexible. Secondly it is advised to test these connection with a push out tool to ...” may sur3 they don’t slip out. The same tool used to remove the push in connection. These lines are not straight they twist and turn and are rigid. The connector must turn it seems...any thoughts?

Im pretty sure the entire connector will rotate if u fo not back nut it. The porsche tool is used to gauge if the line is pushed in far enough when reassembling, not for removal. i think u r over complicating it. 2 good wrenchs and some brute force is all u need.

So the porsche high pressure line shown in all the pictures in this tread is 350.00 at my local stealer 2004 996 AE car Crazy Thinking about having my local hose and hydraulic shop repair once off car or replace. They do all my custom hoses for my race car and I have never had a weep let alone a leak.

When you thought you had it break loose the part closest to the front of the car rotated on the line itself. If you had a 15mm wrench on there to counteract the turning of the hex of the other part (closest to rear of car) of the connector then that wrench must have slipped off. If you used only one wrench then that's where the cause for turning the whole connector lies. Pretty sure the connector remains on the line and the Bentley manual onlyshows it separately for clarity reasons Pic of a boxster but the connector is the same showing two wrenches.

I’m using two wrenches guys...” the entire fitting rotated on the rearward line while turning the forward line. Yes the wrench wasn’t on the rearward fitting. hardtailet? In this picture at the first junction above intake? It appears to be a different location. It does show the connectors very well.. TU

Nice and warm today so motivated to get this power steering line. Rainy and cold kills the motivation so for about the cost of a really good car cover...Shelterlogic Autogarage adds some cover and wind blockage. put the borescope on the back side of the 15mm connector and it�s stripped bad. I�m going to have to see if vice grips can grab this brass. Put the two 19 mm on and able to get i5 to turn. Yay!!! Other end of return still connected so have to remove and inspect the line once off. Manual describes a fuel line tool 9643 which seems to be standard so I�ll come up with something to not break the o ring. Lowering the engine did give more access so positive can get some leverage. Going back with vice grips to see if can get smaller 15 mm line. Nexr phase will be to determine if the lines are the issue. (Once off)...After all this are people simply replacing the lines??? so as you can see I�m on the connector bu5 ad someone said My wrench slipped and /or striped it ...gosh darn it!

Dont have much choice but to replace the lines if u cant reuse the fittings. The center line runs all the way under the car.

I stand corrected...I indeed stripped that end bad. Even if can get it apart don�t know that shouldn�t replace both lines. High pressure line no.17 and it continuation no. 22 which seems to run under the far. Hopefully remove under panels and next connection will give easier access. Where 22 connects to 28(see picture). Larger one with 19mm connection came apart fine. By that time I had dropped the motor as well.

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That should work out just fine.

Spent some time trying to get a look at where the connection to 22 and 23 occur which could be over the transmission on drivers side. Will need to remove drivers side and underbody panel it seems. If I could get a visegrip on that stripped connection....🙏🏾. The way the connector is spinning on the line makes me think that it will require replacement of both lines......anybody with a tranny out seen this central pressure line connection? Saw on a boxer but can’t be sure about that.....

You can replace the Voss fitting: it's item #29 or #31 in your picture above. The same fitting is used on the lines up where you ruined the hex. You need to figure out which part# goes with the size fitting you need, there are two sizes. Once you get the fitting apart you'll find a retainer pressed onto the pipe, it's like a toothed lock washer. Remove that retainer and you can pull the brass part off the line. See the picture from Pelican that was posted earlier. The next connection upstream is next to the gearbox on the driver's side. You'll need to pull off the rearmost undertray to get to it. Once you pull that off it's right there. There are 3 similar fittings: two for the P/S lines and one for the clutch slave. PS, the parts diagram you posted is for a 996 Turbo. The forward lines are the same on the NA car, the rear lines are completely different. PPS, get a crow's foot flare nut wrench and a regular 15mm flare nut wrench! I believe the engine or trans must come out to replace the hard line that you are thinking about. It loops up over the engine way in back.

A very small pipe wrench will work better at this point,pipe wrench gets tighter the more force applied.

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I appreciate you guys candor...I deserve the bitch slaps. I had a regular 15 mm and a crow foot which put too much stress ...hadn�t dropped the engine to create space .......so yea I �ruined� the rearward nut of the Voss fitting. That�s major league because I was wondering if just the connector can be purchased and replaced. If I can get it off (Thank you for the suggestion of a pipe wrench... the vice grips keep slipping doing further damage)....and replace (granted there is no damage to the second line. (99635745127)Yea I keep seeing this part listed with the Turbo so I put my VIN in and comes up the same. I�ll see if I can get the parts counter on the phone and get to the correct part numbers. Thanks very much...

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so as can be seen from the picture this pipe wrench would not cinch onto the metal no mater what...let�s just too big or I�m not dexterous enough. So it had been suggested to cut the fitting and it should break free. It will essentially be useless albeit it is being replaced. This brings up another point. Look at picture of pipe ........whenever I did visual inspection it was always covered in oil/fluid...remember although east/west in this picture it resides north/south when installed. When I removed the AC compressor the area toward the pump around this line was covered in oil/fluid but also in the area close to the pump itself. I could not detect any oil/fluid at the low pressure line connection to pump. (I�ve seen where it can fail here but that is a different line than the one I am working on. So is that a common failure area for this line ...at the rubber to metal junction...a crack or defect in the metal itself ....I see none. so...anyone who has Replaced this has this been the villian Fancy with no bite WEt always here Installed north south covered in oil from itself or above line been the culprit? Now...back to getting this line off. It appears from the PET diagrams that the line come with its part of the fitting. That means this being the line replaced I�ll be using a chewed up end on the next line. Will it be function as long as its insides are OK. I would hate to put it back together and have it not function. The fitting is available...$175 street...120 online. The pressure line is 99634744309 which superseded 25...$252-275 street plus fluid. All these man hours would have made this a $2000 labor job. I will get to the finish line at some point.

Hydro lines can and do leak from crimped fittings. Just one if those maintenance items sometimes. the job would have been much simpler/quicker if u didnt strip the fitting. Live and learn.

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I appreciate the response. Could I take that to mean if one has failed...other may also eventually an$ since I�ve gone through all the disassembly just replace. Absolutely...yet I�m trying to be certain the line is the actually leaking part. And if I didn�t replace the pump and it was the actual problem $$$. so best right now to confirm. I will replace the damage I caused failed or not. Getting it in will also see if it comes with a half or whole fittings. Don�t want to look at that ..serious Concours deduction there. I�ve found the return line used but difference to new not enough ...get the new one. Learning some stuff...

Deeper investigation with borescope reveals fluid on bottom of pump housing even after sitting with pressure off. Slight amount around connection point of supply pipe. Video I saw with system under pressure showed fluid out at this point. If it came out here ...it would pool where I see it...it would flow backwards down the pipe onto the rubber junction...wher3 Ai see contamination. Pump replacement may be the direction Zi need to go. Also replace line on which I damaged the Voss fitting. PS fluid is not good to rubber so all contaminated should probably be replaced. Can’t get a straight answer from dealer parts desk about which Voss fitting is used on which pipe or if pipe comes with full fitting or just female end....shoot.. Porsche tool 9023 is NLA....solution is to fabricate a pry tool. The pipe is 13 mm diameter...the plastic insert that needs to get released only allows a 1-2 mm thick pry tool. I made one out of a metal ruler but it’s too thin...(see photo)I have a buffer release wrench that fits th3 pipe perfect but is too thick(see photo). Together these may work. Maybe together.... Middle (homemade 9623)fits great but too thin

My tool quick and dirty. Just tapper the tips on the wrench.

Well...got the pump disconnected from lower reservoir (oil tank container also called) and almost able to lift pump. Supply line just impossible to release in this position with fabricated tool. Next will remove 3 of four bolts holding PS pump bracket and rotate out of the way on th3 fourth. This should get the pump out and then can move tank forward and get better access to the supply line. It may not be involved so in theory could just leave but I’ve been messing with the connection so much need to check it. Is this still functional...I heard the o-ring inside is NLA...scraped off paint...maybe not the culprit? Pump separated from lower reservoir ...reproduced fluid pool when released Fabricated 9623 Porsche tool no longer available Rotate bracket away on this bolt...replace pump which had evidence of moist fluid on it...the culprit

Hey guys... (not a certified auto mechanic...degree in HVAC mechanics however some auto AC so disclaimer..what I did...not suggesting it as the way. Just my experience.) Gave up on removing pump bracket as required removing alternator. I see now why Bentley manual adds this step. Out of the way it should allow removal of power steering bracket. It seemed too difficult. I went instead to move the harnesses around the pipe and behind tank. This cleared up enough room to rotate take out from behind pump. At this point one can see a gap where fluid could have been seeping out. This could have happened while separating this tank from the pump.... this section requires downward pressure and it took quite a bit of wiggling and wrangling to get it apart. It should have been able to to tolerate that stress but at any rate I�ll be replacing with a new one. When I initially felt fluid it was right under this area. pump replacement may be required since ai can�t rule out this one ad a failure because system not under pressure. So an expensive assumption is it�s involved​​​​​ an$ get another. They do fail and with them being on back order it may be badly to treat like a maintenance item and replace it. (They�re 699-900.00...plus the damaged fitting and/or line)then whatever else ..Pentosin... Little red washer...got you now. Next picture you�ll see failed lower tank Gap there under the collar...video shows it moving Pump in pretty good shape...difficult to see any failure here

Loosen the 4 hose clamps and pull the first plenum. This will give u working room. Doubt u have a pump issue and the resi is only $130 i think. U can remove the pump through the back of the bracket assembled with the resi attached. No way to get the horseshoe bracket off with the pump in place. Unbolting the ac compressor helps too. stop fighting the urge to dissassemble more, things r too tight and u r making the job more difficult.

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I do plan on removing near plenum. I was abl3 to get the resi out with line attached disconnected from pump. Yes removing plenum will give more space. It appears that the rear hold down bolt for the pump bracket is made into the oil tube. My borescope stopped working so can�t get a good look yet. I disassembled the harness to give more room to rotate reservoir so install should be reverse. I�d like to think pump wasn�t issue either but if I put it all back together and still have issue...again a repeat. Hmmmmm....I�m for reinstalling but there is some merit in �just replacing for piece of mind�

At black stripe right side is rotating on left side...if left pressed into right may can press out w/ tool 9623(pic3) Threaded nut on right of fitting but how does that nipple get attached...threads or pressed...I will try and separate first ad if pressed This tool is used to check if not seperated..At the same point that the pic on the left here turns so as can be seen the line requires removal of remaining end which is supposed to rotate on the pipe in normal operation. The good one I removed on the left does the same thing. So I will try and press the end off prior to attempting to cut the male end. Saving the center supply pipe is important. Replacing requires engine out.

The black band in pic1 is a lock washer. Taking it off r3vealed a gap where I tried a pry tool yet it would not release. Does anyone know if if this possible with this fitting. The Bentley photo shows a nipple and threaded nut make up one end. This is what rotates on the line. I Nippl3 and threaded nut have washer in pic2...if ai can separate here ...done deal Black ring is a lock washer Gap created allowed a tool like one 9623 above to get in there but it’s not releasing I have to get this to come off to replace the fitting at least or the line at most. The damage end is on the “ center pressure line and need to verify where it’s connection is under the car. Then may can get two good bolts and unscrew there. I keep trying unscrew in engine compartment. Propane heat was suggested...couldn’t sustain flame before ran out of propane but didn’t seem to help. It had also been suggested to cut expansion slits in th3 fitting to expand it. May be my only resort

Going to take off under panels and see if I can disconnect from other end of this central line and get this on the table to service it. If I can remove male end from the end of this Voss fitting ...I ordered a replacement. Part on the way. Reservoir on the way and pump still working on if I will put original back in or replace.

Longest ps repair eva, keep at it.

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Back on the job...rain stopped and other #��� cleared up... Set up is different than Boxster so no access to center lines without transmission drop. I looked for access. Not there. � The CUT seems the only way. Made a cut in female sign ..yes hose is a goner...15 minutes and the hose is off. Interestingly enough male side �two pieces and once damaged part removed by pulling small black lock washer out came right off. Got a little nick in hose but should be reusable. Voss fittings ordered and on the way. Hose ordered. Got a reservoir and guaranteed pump. I�ll need to get some black engine enamel and repair the scrapes on metal lines(I�ll know it�s there...OCD). All these small little washers intact or attached to replacements. �Da Cut� Reusable....it�ll have to be😔 Repair these cosmetic abrasions Stripped part of fitting comes right off once lock washer removed

At least its progress. I think the nick will be fine. Just clean it up with an emory file so it doesnt cut an oring when assembled

All the parts are in now with the first ones being the pressure and supply line fittings. 999 230 552 10 is the smaller 15 mm which was damaged when attempts to disconnect this line were made. Pressure line which required cutting to break it free 996 347 443 11(updated 06 from a 2004 MY) Thanks to PorscheMatin online parts guy ...Sherman. Here ad suspected the line comes with both ends of the fitting pre-attached. Meaning it’s all one piece. So with a brand new fitting I wanted to see if it would open to make sure the insides are the same. IT DOES NOT WANT TO BREAK FREE. WONDE4 WHY. MAYBE ITS NOT MEANT TO. IT APPEARS THE PRESSURE LINE IS MEANT TO PUSH INTO IT. LETS LEAVE THIS ALONE SAID THE LITTLE VOICE. I am sure if I really wanted to unscrew it I could but let’s move along. Hopefully nice weather I can get pump installed..I have a fully assembled 55K pump that I bought to get the reservoir and have a way to see it all put together. I can either put this back in as it is guaranteed to work(who knows for how long...40 day salvage warranty or dismantle and put my 39K pump back in. I took it out in two pieces so going back in in one unit may prove to be easier(albeit some risk ) I think pump was okay so I’ll see how smooth dismantle will go... Some called “Voss” ..end fittings to the pipe ends, only the male A new hose came with fitting on left attached... I see now going about this by disconnecting lines was maybe not best route. It was only the easiest to access. The Bentley manual never really says this is the sequence which may mean take out pump first. Then disconnect lines with engine dropped or removed.

...still laying out the reinstallation plan and concerned about the return line connection into lower reservoir. Clean this end up where black coating scrubbed off. I wonder if I should repaint with engine enamel...so o-ring can have something to grab onto...the red lock washer has small metal teeth that appear to bite into the pipe when pushed in. Where the coating is filed off they don’t bite but as it is moved further in they bite on the black coating...a new pipe would have OEM coating which I can recreate or spend $120 for new pipe....I’ll paint this and see how it looks for .9.95 engine paint. Scraped off during removal...should still be functional Lock washer teeth bite into line as punched in Replacement reservoir needs this to push fit and lock

I cleaned and sanded with 600 grit. Its holding fine for me.

12:42 pm ... Cleaning all residual fluid mess. A lower coolant hose will have to be replaced due to oil contamination Good fit on all pipes “Longest Power Steering Repair Eva”...95% complete...AC compressor back in place(had to get another scope...1st one failed) and lines supported until engine move back up then can brace them against upper wall. I still need to top up with fluid and bleed air. Waiting on replacement plenum. Repositioning all disassembled wires and hoses left a couple holders to find ou5 where they go. I’ll label better in the future.

Coolant hose contaminated with power steering fluid...can see the breakdown thus the expense of hoses and the oil resistant rubber they are made with plus the fittings...several hundred$$$ All shined up and ready to play. Wonder if aluminum intake ports from 3.8 993S or 997S...I love that look and performance is more Power steering officially closed ticket at 7:55 est...new plenum installed allowed engine to be turned over so fluid and coolants could be filled and bleed. Loss of coolant due to needed replacement of oil contaminated lower coolant hose...pic1. Power steering fluid bleed and engine off vs running difference less than 10mm so per aBentley no air in system. She all dressed up and ready to play. Pesky brake light came back flickering so checked the harness. Bulb partially installed flickers but once fully seated won’t. Harness going had it seems...will look at salvage and if young donor may pull the trigger if difference too big to new

Actually it appears no brake lights either side...must be a brake switch tied to peddle anybody know...thread search beckons

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