Calibrating top with durametrics.

Tried to get everything back in sync using my new durametrics software. Reset actuation, cleared all fault codes. The top will go up than down all the way except the clamshell stops about 2 inches from closed. No movement from side flaps or windows. Called durametrics and they had no knowledge of how the process is supposed to work. All the told me was I might have to tweak a few things before trying to auto calibrate. Any advice?

So I spent some time tonight studying the system and trying to locate all the micro switches and determine each ones purpose. As of now my top will move all the way up, fully latch and the clamshell will fully close but no rear windows. The top will also fully open and stow itself in the compartment at which point the clamshell makes its way toward the closed position but stops about 2" shy of fully closing. This is because the side flaps aren't operating. If I manually close the flaps with the allen wrench so the hit the top microswitches, the clamshell will continue closing fully, but when I go to close the top again it wont engage because the side flap motors wont move them back to the down position to hit the bottom microswitches. what Im wondering now is why are my sideflap motors INOP, and what needs to be triggered to engage them?

Up too late last year (for 4 years) I had problems with my top until this year. It has been operating flawlessly the last 6 weeks every time. Not quite shutting was one of my faults same as yours. Someone somewhere told me to operate the top from standing outside the car via the key in the door lock and to stop the top halfway. Then they told me to use the full length of my right arm to tuck in the back first fold of the top correctly and fully. Then to carry on closing the top and if it closed completely, to leave it closed for a good while. To kind of impress on the folds that, that was the way they should fold correctly. Late last year I did just that and left the top closed for the winter. I have a hard top with the car. Now this year it hasn't let me down so far. An added note here. Never move the top unless the guide wires are securely in place on the metal bobbles under the back window. I have a feeling if the top does not fold correctly the side flaps will not work as a kind of safety thing so nothing breaks. Maybe the top has to touch the black plastic flap center back, in front of the clam shell latching system. There may be a micro switch activated by that flap, which in turn, confirm to the operating system, that all is clear to close completely. Hey anything goes with these tops. Give it a try. It worked so far for me.

Not sure this will help but did you check the ohms on the clamshell ?If that isn't set correctly numerous time out issues

As to one of Hurdi's points... Do you have the center plastic protector plate/flap that is spring loaded? It serves to protect the top when it is down. Because the top folds over, it lays over a greasy latch. This plate/flap covers that latch, keeping the fabric top from touching it as the clamshell closes. If you've ever seen a top on a 911 with a grease stain and/or a hole about right in the middle of their top, it is due to this being missing. As Hurdi said, this may have a micro switch. It's natural position is to be vertical due to spring pressure. It is pushed down by the clamshell when the top is closed. It is pushed down by the clamshell when the top open also, however part of fabric of the top is wedged in between. Again, it's function is to fit between the clamshell and the latch to keep the fabric top protected from the latch when the top is open This said, it may not have a micro switch and not interrupt the opening and closing of the top. This would be my guess. I say this because I've seen tops where there is a grease mark or hole or both right where the fabric top would touch the latch when open because this plate/flap is missing. What year is your car? They could have added a switch to later cars. I can take a photo and explain further if this is something you want to rule out. Even if it is not the cause of problem, it's nice to know it's there. They fall off easily.

Quotes source post: 13315009

Where do I check the resistance and how is it adjustable? Also I'd imagine it would need to be st a certain point when I adjust it.

There is no micro switch triggered by the clamshell latch flap, only when it actually latches on the clamshell will it trigger the center microswitch on the clamshell drive unit. SOMETHING isnt engaging to allow both rear windows to operate and flap drive motors to engage. Even when I manually press the microswitch in the windshield frame, still no rear window movement. The big question for me now is what switch triggers the flaps and windows to operate? This is getting really tiring......... 50 bones sent through paypal for the one with the solution to this whole fiasco.

Quotes source post: 13315276

This black plastic flap does not have a microswitch. The only microswitch on the clamshell latch is above the drive mechanism, just rear of the clamshell motor and potentiometer. Here are some reference diagrams: This diagram from the workshop manual shows the location of the microswitches.

Quotes source post: 13314831

With the top down, try sticking your finger in the latch hole in the top center of the windshield to engage the microswitch. Then, try to raise the rear windows using the center console switch. If the windshield micro switch is working, the windows should raise.

It's 6.2k ohms -maybe Frisbee 91 could send you section 61-70-19 .I just tried and couldn't do it .

You are right that the Durametric tool is almost worthless for the top. It will not independently operate any of the components which is what is needed for any trouble shooting and I have not had any luck with it calibrating the top sequence. You can clear fault codes but that is about it. Sure made me happy for spending that money.

Just so you know what flap I'm speaking of.... Here are pictures.... Like I said it serves to prevent the fabric top from laying over the latch and punching a hole in, or getting grease on the top. As you can see I pulled it down in the one photo. It stays up when the clamshell is up. Most owners who's are missing never know it's missing, because if there fabric top is folding correctly it serves no purpose. However since your top is new and may not yet be folding properly, the fabric may be looping over the latch and preventing the clamshell from being able to latch since the fabric of the top itself is covering the latch which is how it punches the hole or more commonly just pushes the fabric down on the latch and transfers some grease onto it. Once again, not saying it's your problem, just trying to contribute

Quotes source post: 13317099

Like I said it serves to prevent the fabric top from laying over the latch and punching a hole in, or getting grease on the top. Thankyou for your input and taking time to post pics, I checked that the latch is clear and the top is folding up nice and neat right next to the flap. The clamshell is not closing because the two side flaps aren't moving up and hitting the upper microswitches telling the clamshell it's ok to close. Why these flaps aren't moving is the million dollar question, and whatever it is its keeping my rear windows from being able to roll up even when I press the windshield microswitch with my finger.

I just got back from the shop and was presently surprised that this one did not cost Ye' Ol' proverbial arm and leg. My drivers side lateral flap was sticking so they just lubed it up. After re-timing the top is is working great. Of course me moving the lateral flap manually once is what screwed up the timing. DOH. But ya gotta do what ya gotta do to get the top up sometimes. BUT I have a feeling I will be replacing the flap motors sometime in the near future. IF the Durametric would have the function to actually move the flaps and sync the top this could have been a DIY day instead of a shop bill. Marc

That's good it wasn't too expensive, looks like mine will be going in soon to get this issue figured out, still can't get the flaps to make any movement and rear window up circuit is still inop. This has turned out to be more if a project than I had hoped for.

Looks like the saga continues. I put the top down and back up once and the second time it would not go down as the lateral flaps are not raising. So I guess it is time to replace them. Maybe I should just put the hardtop back on and say F it. but I have a convertible and danged it I will make it work. Headed to the shop for new lateral flaps next week. There goes my budget again. That is what it finally took was ne lateral flap motors on both sides. I am going to see if I can rebuild the ones i got back for next time.

Have you had the convertible calibrated? The sensor positions need to be learned by the controller.

Hey Bill. Before posting take a look at the date of the previous post. This one was 06-04-2016. So I think after 6 years they may have fixed the problem.

That is hilarious because I was simply replying to the emailed notice I got that said someone replied to a thread I was in and this is where is kept sending me.. I did wonder if maybe the NTP had broken or something...

Shucks, I found it interesting and was gonna ask where and what was used to lubricate the wings?