Horn Only Works With Key "Off"

Last week I noticed my horn didn't work when I needed it and since then I've noticed sometimes it will work and sometimes it's well into a drive it will start working again. Last night I noticed it will work Everytime with the key OFF I searched and people have found the wire behind the airbag can be stripped or barely connected and others have pointed to the ignition switch I just pulled the airbag off and the wires behind are perfect The ignition switch is 1.5 years old. Where else do I look ? Thanks

Bump the middle finger is only so effective

Quotes source post: 16743289

What ignition switch did you use?

It was done by the previous owner. A new development has me even more confused. I held the horn down with the car running and pulled the column out and found a sweet spot where the horn works every time. To me it seems like I've got a bad wire in the column ?

Quotes source post: 16748332

There's a bushing on the airbag bracket that wears out. It's that or the switch most likely. Google and watch. You Tube

Quotes source post: 16743289

I've got the exact same symptoms. The horn always works with the key out. Every once in a while the horn will work with the key on. I've taken the cover off of the steering column and tested the system by disconnecting the red terminal and jumping the two terminals. With the jumper wire in place the horn works as it should - key on or off. The red terminal comes off of the car side of the clock spring along with an orange terminal for the airbag. The ignition switch and all other wires are original to the car. I took the airbag off of the steering wheel and checked the continuity of the points on the horn frame when it is pushed in - those points are fine. I then checked the continuity for the two horn wires (brown/white and solid brown). The brown/white wire had continuity when I checked the circuit through the clock spring. When I checked the continuity of the brown wire circuit through the clock spring there was no continuity. I understand that the horn doesn't work if there is a break in the brown wire (ground) circuit through the clock spring. Why does the horn work when the key is off but does not work when the key is turned on? If there is an open circuit on the brown wire, how does the horn work? Most tests point to the clock spring being the faulty component but I want to make sure before I place an order. Any ideas?

Those ignition switches are notoriously unreliable. I'd try replacing it even if it's only a year old.

Quotes source post: 16921719

The clock spring isn't faulty, it's the brown wire. These commonly break at or near the connection - if you're careful with a soldering iron it can be fixed for $zero. With the wire broken, the horn does (oddly) work with ignition off, but not on.

Quotes source post: 16934141

Maybe the brown wire could have been soldered but I was not able to find the point on the brown wire that was broken. I did replace the clock spring and in my case that was what was needed. The new clock spring did have continuity on all four wires. Apparently, there is another path to ground when the key is off and out. I'm guessing that switching function is in the horn relay.

So I was having the same weird horn issues. The horn would work, but only with the ignition off. Pulled the battery, THEN airbag. The brown wire (@ 4 o�clock) looked well enough, but using the multimeter to pierce the wire insulation closer to the clock spring and testing it for continuity showed that it had indeed failed. Seems as though the strain relief crimp on the spade is the culprit. Cut the spade off, stripped back the brown wire and re-crimped and soldered it for good measure. Pretty simple when you know what you�re looking for. This community is invaluable!!