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YOUR RESEARCHbearing size for 996.102.120.55 deflection roller
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same or better than the ***
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Leading evidence: 'same or better than the ***' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'same or better than the ***' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check 3 x rollers' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I also checked with Boca but theirs was made in China.
Replace bearings in a non-serviceable electric motor, saved bank
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I recently replaced bearings in a non-serviceable electric motor, saved bank.
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I have replaced many bearings over the years but these were difficult.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I used a 20 ton press, and cranked on the hydraulic jack a lot more than I expected!
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UPDATE (March 29, 2013): Skip to post #19 for DIY.
Anybody have the bearing size for a deflection roller (996.102.120.55)? OEM bearing is German made by "***". Has anyone pressed a new bearing into the pulley assembly, instead of purchasing the newer, complete assembly 997.102.119.00 (for $100+)?
Updated Photos: March 21, 2012
No, but a VERY careful Google search found some distributors for F.A.G. bearings:
daltonbearing.com
I'm guessing your photo plus that distributor will net you a replacement.
brush the dust off the outer race and read the number. Most likely something like a 6203 for $3-$10 for the bearing unless it's proprietary then you can't buy it. I recently replaced bearings in a non-serviceable electric motor, saved bank.
For less than $100 I would consider the ECS part for peace of mind and less trouble. If it were a $500 part I would replace the bearing for sure. For only $82 not worth your time IMO.
If you decide to replace the bearing its probably in the $8 to $10 range. The sizes and types are explained on may bearing makers websites. You need the numbers and info stamped on the race. I cant see them on the pic.
Maybe spend the $82 and be done with it?
Yes, that's a good price from ECS (thanks ECS!), and I'm evaluating options. Thing is, I just dropped $7k + on VF Supercharger, replacement coolant hoses, brake rotors, pads, thermostat, water pump, etc., etc., etc..., so attempting to save where I can at this point.
Thanks for the info baskin. I sent an inquiry to Medias to confirm it is the proper bearing. That link sparked some additional thoughts on this subject -- it's not only the size of the bearing that is important, but also the specifications such as load rating, fatigue rating, etc. I'll report back when I have something further. Cheers guys!
Cleaned up the race and photographed the bearing in macro mode. See updated photos in post #1. Will have the bearing pressed out of the pulley housing to take measurements.
Doug996....
A couple of years ago, I pressed out all 3 deflection & idler roller bearings and re-installed new Japanese NSK bearings (supplied by my local bearing supplier) into the rollers. Twelve months / 4,000 miles later when I was completing my annual inspection, I removed the serpantine belt to check the 3 x rollers. Two bearings were already gritty and required replacement, so I bought the complete roller assemblies from Porsche.
You may save a few $$ by just renewing the bearings, but if I were to do the work again, I would use the new complete roller assemblies every time. The last thing I need is an idler bearing to collapse and rip the serpantine belt to bits.....
You must have gotten bearings from a defective batch. Porsche gets these bearings from ***, they are a quality manufacturer like NTN or Timken. A standard bearing like this has no reason not to last as long as the one they sell to Porsche. There are also Chineese replicas that are packaged and sold on brand name boxes, make sure the bearing shop is a good one.
When I did my alternator a few months ago I replaced all three of the pulleys, the two deflection pulleys and the tensioner pulleys. The replacement/updated pulley are nylon and weigh much less. So if you are into weight savings, probably a couple of pounds
All three of many were sounding bad after 13 years and 70,000+ miles. I got all three for less than $240. Helps if you daughters boyfriend is a Porsche Tech
The fault could also could have been mine - pressing out the old bearings and then pressing in the new ones was quite difficult (even after freezing the new bearings overnight), the fit was very tight indeed - much harder than, say, pressing in a normal bearing into its housing. I have replaced many bearings over the years but these were difficult.
I wondered at the time if I could have inadvertantly put some pressure on the inner race - which of course spells doom to a perfectly good bearing.
Just so happens, Harbor Freight is offering their 20 ton shop press for $150 (normally $250)! Sure, it's not the best quality press out there, but when you only use it handful of times a year, it should last a long time. Xmas came early for my home shop
More info to come soon.
Used a 9/16" cheap socket to press out the bearing. Stephen, you weren't kidding! I used a 20 ton press, and cranked on the hydraulic jack a lot more than I expected! Photos of measurements also below.
Exactly! Nice job finding that link.
Now, to source the bearings...
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NXHAfoa0s-4/UVBdJ-vcLhI/AAAAAAAABak/mKCxskJJad4/s1600/dalton_bearing.png
UPDATE: Purchased two bearings from VXB.com --
http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit7187
. Pressed them into OEM deflection pulleys today. Used a Craftsman 1" socket to make contact with the outer race.
I am doing the same thing right now while my engine is out. Use a little heat before pressing the old ones out. Much, much easier. Also I think the 3202-2RS spec is closer. Im checking with our local *** bearing dist. Monday.
Good suggestion! What did you use for heat? A 1500 watt heat gun? Propane torch? Good luck on sourcing a *** bearing. I hope you have better luck than I did.
Met with the local *** dist. today. He measured the old bearing right in front of me and sold me an MRC brand bearing that is made in America. He said it was the same or better than the ***. He said the *** are harder to get and usually not in stock. The bad news is that at @$50 each, you can almost get the new Porsche ones.
MRC
Mfr Part #
5202SBKZZ
Maximum Rotational Speed
12000 RPM
Static Load Capacity
1530 pounds
Dynamic Load Capacity
2560 pounds
No, I actually found them in the authorized *** distributors list which was kind of hard to find. Didnt even know the place existed until yesterday. Its a large business in Beaumont that mostly supplies our chemical plant industries. I was worried they wouldnt sell to me but they did with no problem.
I also checked with Boca but theirs was made in China. The MRC brand bearing is indeed stamped "USA" so they should be fine. They also sell Timken so I bet you could get the exact IMSB that LNE uses for their kits.
Purvis Industries
3090 W.Cardinal
Beaumont, TX
[phone removed]
