No start issue - Have Fuel and spark, but no injection.

Hi all Sorry to start yet another tread on a no-start issue, I have read most of the posts on Rennlist (and the rest of www) and are now asking you competent people for advice. I am experiencing a no-start problem with my 2002 Porsche 911 (996.2) 3,6 Carrea 2, manual transmission. 100k miles on the tacho. It ran flawless when I parked it in the evening, next morning it wouldn�t start. It cranked just fine, fresh battery, but it didn�t fire up. There were small attempts to fire up, and after several attempts I had it idling (weak, with low rpm), but as soon as I gently touched the throttle, it died immediately. I managed to maneuver the car away from the driveway in idle, by being gentle with the clutch and not touching the throttle, so it idled for a couple of minutes, but I haven�t been able to get it idling since then. During troublehooting I now and then get a small attempt to fire up, but it is split-seconds and it never gets to idling. Here is what I have done: The fuel pump died in the easter, I replaced it with a new unit from VDO and it has been driving app. 1500 miles since then. If I spray starter-gas in the air-intake, the car runs just fine, i.e. I have got spark. The fuel pump is working, I have inserted a jumper in the fuse-sockets, I have checked the Fuel pump relay at the bench with a gauge, and I can feel it clicking with my finger, when cranking the engine. It is working just fine. I have checked that there is fuel spraying out, at the fuel rail at the injectors, where there is a small valve meant for attaching the fuel pressure measuring gauge, by depressing the valve with a small screwdriver. i.e. the motor gets fuel to the rails. I haven�t had the equipment to measure the fuel pressure, but as there are enough pressure to spray fuel from the valve when cranking the engine, I do believe that the car should be able to fire up, even if the pressure is lacking a bit (?). I have checked fuse C1 to C4 and E1, all good. I have tried to crank it with the spare key � no difference. My conclusion is, that there are fuel and spark, so the injectors must not be letting fuel into the engine. I unfortunately do not have the noidlight tool to measure if the injectors gets an electrical pulse. It could be the Crank position sensor (CPS) � but I do have a pulse on the rpm-needle when putting ignition on, and it rises to app. 200 rpm when cranking�..this indicates that the CPS is just fine, or could it still be faulty? Would the car be able to run on starter-cas, with a faulty CPS? Unfortunately, my OBDII tool is for some reason not compatible to this car, so I have not been able to look for fault codes, but I do believe that I had no CEL light when the car was idling shortly. Could it be the immobilizer? � would the car then be able to fire up on starter-gas? Could it be the electrical socket at the ignition key? � would the car then be able to fire up on starter-gas? Are there other conditions than the CPS, that could cause the injectors not to work? Sorry for the long description. I am looking forward to your advice and input.

Unplug the maf sensor and see if she fires. It will put the car into a default setting and throw a code but it will take it out of the loop. Also go to your local parts store and rent the fuel pressure gauge and just verify. Sounds like its not the issue but verify anyways. Your car will not start at 20psi but it will spray far at that pressure

I had very similar symptoms years ago. It was a bad relay. The relay was in the 12 slot relay holder in the deck behind the rear seat. Looking at the schematics just now, it was likely the relay in position 7 which is labeled "starter lock."

Hi both Thanks - good suggestions. I will se if the relay is located at the same spot in my Cab an check those. The Maf-test is a simple test, easy to try out. I will look into that tomorrow.

Here is one that happen to me, the kid car lost a fuel pump in the 02 C2 and he replaced the fuel pump and 2 months later had another fuel starvation problem, I pulled the fuel pump and found he had not made full connection on the line inside the tank and was sucking air, the pump was ok, its best to get the right tool for checking the rail pressure, don't guess it.

Hi John - thanks, and agree, i must have the fuel pressure checked. Could start with looking the lines at the fuel pump, to rule that cause out.

Just stop fighting it. Its ok to spend money on tools . Amazon Amazon

The Car is running again, thanks to your advice, John - thank you so much. As it is a bank holiday in Denmark, i was unable to get my hands on a fuel pressure tester, so i decided to check the lines at the fuel pump, on one of them were in fact loose. It would snap on in a way that you really would need to pull it quite hard to pull it off, but it was not correct snapped in - that must have been what was fooling me when installing the pump 4 weeks ago - anyway, i managed to give the fitting a harder push and got a clear snap-sound as feedback - now i cannot pull of the line even when pulling hard....hopefully it will stay put from now on. Thanks to all of you, for the good advice - this really a great forum.

I forget there r european folks on here so getting rental tools and amazon delivers r different. Good news on the fix.

Glad to hear it worked out for you, I know people are afraid to push much on (old) plastic quick connect and having them break, I was going to tell you to go to Harbor Freights Tools to get fuel injection pressure tester, I spend time in northern Spain and youngest live Switzerland, there is no Harbor Freight in Europe. It will stay put now.