How do I get old gas out?

Hello all. I've got old gas in my 99 996 c2. I looked all over the net trying to figure out how to get the old gas out and the best I could find was underneath the battery in the front trunk I can access the fuel pump in from there I should be able to siphon out the tank? I saw a couple of methods of utilizing the fuel pump to empty the tank but honestly I couldn't figure out how it was done. Can anyone send me in the right direction?

How old is this old gas? 2 years , 5 years 10 years? and how much in the tank?

Quotes source post: 18164265

I second that question. If it's minimal, pour some fuel stabilizer into it and burn it off. Otherwise, you'll probably need to pull the fuel pump and siphon from there. It's in the front under the battery.

Quotes source post: 18164265

I believe it's three and a half year old gas. 3/4 full

Quotes source post: 18164893

I believe it's three and a half year old gas. 3/4 full. I put stabilizer in at like the six-month mark when I realized I wasn't going to be running the vehicle. Too late, I know.

U can pull the hose off the fuel rail and add an extension to a fuel can. Then just jump the fuel pump relay. Its not that difficult. Just put a good charger on the bat so it doesnt wear it down. If u want to pull the pump u risk breaking the quick disco nipple. They get brittle. Other that u can drop a siphon pump in and drain it.

Quotes source post: 18165015

It was suggested to me that it might be better to slightly lift the pump up but not disconnect it just lift it up enough to get tubing into the tank and hand pump it out. Is this the route you would suggest as well and do I still have to worry about the Disco nipple if I don't pull the pump out completely? Someone mentioned that they used the fuel pump to pump it out and it clogged up their filter and ruined their pump.

Quotes source post: 18164939

So there's stabilizer already in there? Have you smelled the gas? Does it smell like gas or turpentine? Either way, 3/4 full is a LOT! I'd drain it.

You might be ok running the fuel. I don�t think waiting 6 months for fuel stabilizer is going to have a huge effect on quality. If zero stabilizer, different story. That said, if you want to drain it, get yourself a self-priming tube drain kit, put the intake hose down the fill, and you can drain it that way

The big problem is once you pump/drain it out, THEN what do you do with it? I recently dealt with 15 gallons of 2 year old treated fuel. My generator and yard equipment wouldn't burn it, but 5 gallons added to a tank of fuel in our van and it burned it. I wouldn't run it through my 996 though. I would siphon off as much as possible and re-fill with quality 93 octane.

Fill the car with fresh gas. Drive a 1/4 tank. Refill. Keep doing this. You're fine. At $6/gallon don't waste it. Your old oil is a bigger issue. Run some Techron Fuel System Cleaner in your car, and then do an oil change in about 400 miles when the gas is empty.

I just did this on my car (gen 2 though). I agree the easiest way is to disconnect the fuel line in the engine bay and attach a hose and pump it into a gas can. I'm not sure if gen 1 is the same but on my car the fuel line disconnect is right by the coolant expansion tank. It's a hard line with a coupler that has a a grey button on the back of the disconnect that you simply push in and pull the line apart. I hooked a 1/4 tube to the pump side and ran it to a gas can. You can activate the fuel pump relay with a durametric or other scan tools if you have it or it's pretty simple to jump the relay (you would have to search to find the right number). In Maryland, our county dump has a disposal station for gas and oil and such that is free. I just added mine to my truck which was 1/2 full of gas at the time.

Quotes source post: 18165148

I think even pulling up on the sender/pump can crack it. There isnt a lot of play in that line. If u r worried about the filter clogging then put it on stands, pull center plastic and disco the line at the filter. Its probably a good time to replace it too. Also if there was that much varnish in the tank to kill the pump with a clogged filter, the tank should be dropped and steam cleaned. I get rId of old gas in my 93 wrangler. That motor is like a honey badger, it dont give a $hit.

Forgot to add, I would not completely drain the tank. I left 1/4 tank of the old gas and then filled it with 10 gallons of fresh gas.

Quotes source post: 18165378

Just to clarify.. if you had three-quarters of a tank of 3.5 year old gas you would just add some fuel cleaner drive to the gas station and top off? This is what I really want to do lol. Just don't want to damage the fuel injectors or any other components.

Quotes source post: 18165639

I would. You used a fuel stabilizer. I would add a jug of fresh fuel to the car, drive a 100 miles, and refill. Keep doing that for a few times. Then change the oil ASAP. Or change the oil first, and again in 500-1,000 miles. Don't do a lot of full throttle driving for a while, since the old fuel will be down on octane.

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Why does the oil need changing? Is it due to the low octane or because the car was sitting? Just asking because I am curious.

Quotes source post: 18165671

Good question. A couple things: 1) It's 3.5 years old (the oil) 2) Best Practices say to change the oil AFTER using a fuel system cleaner like Techron.

^^ right ^^

A few random comments: - If you do decide to drain it -- disconnect the battery terminal first as a precaution - you don't want any accidental sparks (it's easy to forget how ridiculously combustible gas and gas vapor is) - 6 months of gas being untreated is not an issue - I don't really know how well gas stabilizers work (I use them all the time for winter storage, but it's difficult to tell how much they help), and if you poured the stabilizer into a 3/4 full tank, it probably didn't mix with the fuel very much (normally you pour in the additive first, then fill tank to mix it with the fuel) and it wasn't circulated through the fuel injection assuming you didn't start it - The above said, I still think the gas will be fine to use after 3 1/2 years -- the alcohol in e-gas can cause it so absorb some water over long periods of storage, so you might want to add something like "Heat" additive to help it deal with any potential water accumulation

@OverTake any update?

Hey. Yea I started her right up, lol. Turned out it was a quarter of a tank of old gas, so I put in some cleaner and topped off. It seemed a little rough in the beginning, but when I got on the highway she felt great. Unfortonately I was also experiencing a coolent issue after just putting in -another- after market coolent expansion tank. I took it to my mechanic and he said that the new coolent expansion tanks threads for the cap were no good and he is going to put it a genuine porsche one that retails for 600, ouch. He's also going to do an oil change. Looking forward to getting her back and listing her! 45k miles. 24k!

Happens over and over again! OEM is expensive, but it�s worth the hassle.

I' om the other end of the fence from most it looks like,,, but,, here goes.. I wish I had a couple bucks for each engine I've had to work on due to old fuel. Especially old E10.. Want to get bore scoring?? Pump dead fuel through a 996.. It does not atomize correctly or burn correctly and will wash the cylinder walls down because its now a full solvent and a horrible lubricant. . You should change the filter anyway its full of old fuel too. Ideally you pump the tank out with the stock pump, Change filter AND in tank pump strainer, fill with fresh gas (Alcohol free if available check with marina's) and pump a couple quarts though the system to a catch can. (this is the fuel my lawnmower would get.. ) Your injectors are suspect as well as the fuel rails and regulator. with 3.5 years in I'd pull the rails, and injectors and clean both. Letting a 996 sit that long is a recipe for problems, Air oil separator diaphragm, dry main seals, valve seals... Even wheel bearings , before you drive it lift each side and turn over by hand. The long setting period squeezes all the grease out between the race and roller on the bottom. Do not initially turn motor over with the starter, move the crank back and forth very very gently just a wiggle, maybe 5 degrees total , then rotate normal direction 1 full turn from the crank pulley. If our lucky this will loosen the crank seals on the crank shaft so they don't stick and tear. Did I mention you need to change the oil then short change on the next oil change? Because a ton of aged stuff in there by now too. Gotta ask yourself,, Is 50 or 60 bucks worth of fuel worth a 30K motor? Well there ya go.. FWIW, I've started MANY long term cars with no drama,, even stuff that had been sitting for over 40 years.. patience and care is a good thing.

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I would add buying from FCP Euro can also give you a lifetime replacement warranty. I've never used my warranty in the past but didn't take the chance on the expensive parts of my rebuild project. Clutch and DMFW are a different story. I saved almost 300 by buying it from Rock Auto. I figured it's worth it since replacing a clutch isn't that hard on these power units. They were meant to be taken apart over and over again. But the guts? No more risks for me, all OEM.