Stuck 996.2 coolant tank

The reason I mention 996.2 is because after watching just about every video on this concern it appears the tank was enlarged vs the 996.1 This issue seems to confirm that. I followed the prep procedures�remove intake and SAP�drain reservoir coolant�lower engine�disconnect coolant hoses and fuel lines and reposition. Disconnect all hoses to reservoir�slide to right off the holding bracket. About 3/4 off the way off tank jumped to rear off track and got stuck�will not go any further. I put it back in. I am using a fair amount of brute force. If only I could drop the engine another 1-2 �someone has said if I loosen the transmission bolts it�ll even the drop out and give clearance. It doesn�t appear that simple but if that�s what I have to do. I contacted tech support at Flat6 who did my IMS. Since you hav3vto pay for their assistance I�ll see if they have a solution. It didn�t look this difficult. What did I miss? Any suggestions appr3ciated. It should slide to right and twist It jumps off track and gets stuck �won�t turn.guess I could cut it into small pieces and that�ll do it� too extreme huh

You need to remove the black bracket.

When I did my 1999 C2 Cab manual, I lowered the engine as well, but I seem to recall levering the engine to the right for additional room. This particular job was brutal and had me speaking in tongues! Best of luck.

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I thought of that but how is that holding bracket removed while the tank is in place?

Push the tank all the way to the front of the car then push it a little more. Even then you will need to get the correct angle and muscle it out. Also, remove all hoses in the exit path. It is a beach to remove even then!

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this video is not super helpful as i took it after the fact. but it explains the process and the tools i used. i also found some pictures i took, and i will try to upload them later. hope it helps. You Tube

OK, I just did this job a few weeks ago on my 2003. You do not have to remove the black retaining bracket. If you haven’t already, remove the fuel rail cap, which should give you another 3/4” room. I raised the engine about 2” while tilting the rear of the tank to your left, then removing the tank straight ahead. It came right out. When installing the new tank the black bracket stays in place, you do not have to remove.

I did this job recently as well, and it's a real pain. Many have luck getting it out without removing a lot, but IIRC, what helped me was removing the black bracket and the driver side motor mount. If you do decide to remove the black bracket, getting it back in with both bolts will be very challenging. I wound up modifying the end of the black bracket to make accessing the interior bolt much easier, and not using the other bolt, as one secures it pretty well. Your mileage may vary. Good luck!

Thanks for the comments and that fuel sensor is a great idea�I was seeing how it was stopping the process. If no love I�ll look at the bracket removal. please note that each time I attempted I moved all the hoses and disconnected the fuel lines(expect a little fuel release so disconnect the battery). A few people looked my picture which taken for effect after several tries. Thx

Fellow enthusiasts rejoice�got that sucker out. Removed the fuel rail bolt�(be prepared for gas to spill out. ) I had prior yo this released the fuel lines to make room. I wonde4 if they had been left connected would fuel have spilled out. Once able to clear bottom engine side �it was hanging slightly on the black bracket. This is where the tug of war was won. It�s plastic�it�ll bend and out it came. looks in good shape but I see dry coolant on motor so I�ll replace. The real reason is that chewed up wire harness going to my taillight that needs repair. All in a days hobby. I can�t thank my fellow members enough for sharing their experience..it did the trick �out OBGYN�� there�s the head�it�s trying to breach� Not today�a good yank and out it came. Chasing the rodent damage for a year�if in storage always a reality�

The fix for this wire damage would be easiest in both hands so I need to clear the damage 6 plus inches rearward or pull it into the rear compartment. Either way I needed to see the grommet that encloses the harness as it goes through the rear qtr panel into taillight recess. Removal of B and C pillar interior trim would give the best view�I figure two hours to get it exposed. This would ensure protection of surfaces I�m working around albeit more labor. Ironically to get enough space to get my XL hands around the damaged wiring required removal of the bloody reservoir holding bracket that gave so much trouble earlier. Take a look� Need more room to get couple inches closer to that grommet Room for both hands to solder wiring� Goodbye bracket (until tank reinstalled�lol Seat belt mechanism on right�behind it is exit for damaged harness..to the left is ECU�HARNESSES

The easiest way to fix it is to dico everything in the motor area and pull it back through to the back seat. More work but worth it.

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I was thinking same. Either way, that�s a tedious job. Nice job finding the damaged wiring�

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Tedious doesn�t begin to describe it but you�re right �dismantled interior and got a clear view of grommet wire goes through. In engine bay disconnect of more harness I decided against. I released back seat harnesses and got about 3-4 inches and pulled the harness into engine bay and repaired it there. It�s all back together now and light# fully functional. Getting reservoir back in also daunting and I trimmed the holding bracket that blocks re-entry and that did the trick. I must have gotten an air bubble when refilling the coolant �it�s spilling out through overflow hose which I have in the space left of coil cover. It�s not long enough or maybe I don�t have in correct place�coolant dripping down. I thinks it�s the overflow. All connections appear sound. I need to flush the air bubble out?..