14 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHBrake Rotor Replacement
Leading reported evidence
Check outside edge of each rotor
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Leading evidence: 'Check outside edge of each rotor' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check outside edge of each rotor' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
I just finished replacing all 4 rotors and pads on one of my 996's.
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Suggestion
If your brakes are spongy, I also recommend changing brake fluid.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
If you�re able to determine that the rotors have never been changed, just do it, that are 20 years old.
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Suggestion
I might be killed for saying this, but lots of folks replace the rotors when they replace pads.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
14 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261026T142254Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
My 2003 has 92000 miles on original brakes. Front pads are at 5mm and rears have 7mm. Thinking of replacing pads, sensors. Question is should I also do all 4 rotors as well? Or, do I have them inspected and milled, and if so what is the spec on that?
Thanks.
I might be killed for saying this, but lots of folks replace the rotors when they replace pads.
If your rotors are original with 92,000 miles, then I would definitely replace them as well.
I wouldn't mill the rotors.
Milling rotors really has no place on passenger cars anymore. You can measure the thickness and reuse them without milling if they have more than half their wear life left (be sure to brush off any corrosion on the hats), but at 92,000 I would probably save the trouble of measuring and just replace.
Funny you should ask that. I just finished replacing all 4 rotors and pads on one of my 996's. Took a few hours but wasn't difficult.
If the rotors are original, replace them.
I work on lots of different vehicles and I never have rotors turned anymore.
Most places around me charge $75 per rotor.
For most vehicles it is cheaper to buy a new rotor than to have one turned.
I thought about buying a brake lathe but it just isn’t worth it.
Just buy new rotors.
As others have said, few shops/ppl have their rotors turned anymore. Much cheaper/easier to just replace them.
Just had a complete brake job done on my 2000 C4 Cab using Brembo rotors and Akebono pads. Pedal feel is still too soft which I think is due to a worn master brake cylinder (the car is 20 yrs old) and am having that replaced in a couple of days. Hopefully, that'll "fix" the problem.
I went with Textar pads (one of the OE manufacturers) and Meyle drilled rotors. They were very reasonably priced. I have two track days on them and they held up well. Since I am tracking them, I will definitely be replacing the rotors with the pads.
Interesting because in my experience most people select a track day pad that wears pretty quickly. They tend to go through several sets of pads using the same rotors. Replacing them as a set in that case, would be super expensive.
The problem with refinishing rotors in todays day and age, is it is too expensive, and if you find someone I doubt they'd do it correctly anyway,
Also be sure to break in the new pads and rotors before driving on the track or in heavy unpredictable traffic. You want both the pad and rotor scuffed and free of any fluids that might limit friction. The easiest way to do that is several increasingly hard stops. This will also make sure the pad is firmly "bedded" into the caliper, and help push extra air back to the reservoir. If your brakes are spongy, I also recommend changing brake fluid. A lot of times that sponginess is water, which needs to be removed from the system.
If you�re able to determine that the rotors have never been changed, just do it, that are 20 years old. Otherwise, check the outside edge of each rotor.. if you can feel a lip, change them.
I was on the fence with this as well. The front rotors are 28mm when new and the minimum spec thickness is 26mm. My rotors have a very slight lip and they measured out at 26mm. Pretty much with any wear at all they are out of spec.
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