Interior 3d scan

A bit left field, but does anyone have a 3d scan of the interior of a 996? Ideally showing the rear strut towers. Looking at building a cage and while i used to have a scanner, i sold it a year or so ago. Alternatively i'll have to hire something

What are you trying to accomplish that an off-the-shelf 996 cage doesn't?

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Quite simple, the fact that I can build a cage for about 1/10th the cost! I've worked in steel fabrication and I won't pay others for what I can do myself. Worst case I'll just measure the old fashioned way

I have a 3D scanner my son gave me, but I�ve never used it. I haven�t had time to give it a try. My son has scanned larger items with his. I need to ask him to show me how to use it when he�s around at Christmas. I�d like to 3D scan my 996 and see if I can improve aerodynamics for higher top speeds at the Texas Mile.

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I would be very interested in your findings

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I'd like to try some of the windtunnel simulations of the 996 with the GT3RS wing, the Taco wing, and the base automagic spoiler. But I may just take all three to the Texas Mile and get real-world results.

I bet you could go faster if you folded your side mirrors in. Or maybe remove them if you�re allowed and inclined to do so.

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I tried folding my mirrors and didn't notice any improvement, in fact I think it was very slightly worse. I think it disturbed more air than reduce frontal area. I'm wondering if a Gurney flap on the GT3RS wing would help reduce drag. There's one on the Taco wing from the factory. The GT3RS trailing edge raises up slightly and may help reduce drag, but perhaps a Gurney flap will help even more. That's one of the aerodynamic tricks I'd like to try out with a virtual wind tunnel simulation.

To lower drag, lower the car, elongate the rear, reduce slope of rear screen, do away with rear spoiler of any kind. Cut elongated rear into a Kamm tail to keep it somewhat practical, cover rear wheel cut-outs. Smaller tyre diameter will lower car further and probably help in gearing too. Doesn't a gurney flap increase down force for relatively small jncrease in drag, I.e the opposite of what you want? Sorry for taking this thread further OT..

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What a surprise to realize that folding the mirrors made it worse. Thanks for sharing a valuable data point. When you speak of �virtual wind tunnel simulation�, are you going to 3-D scan your car and analyze the model in a computer program?

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I'm not sure on the Gurney Flap. That's why I'd like to be able to at least run a simulation. Removing the mirrors may help, but not folding them. Yes, that's the thought. Grassroots Motorsports did several articles on scanning and simulations. That's where the idea came up for me. I work with reservoir simulation clusters so running wind tunnel simulations piqued my interest.

Tex, did you do anything on your front end with regards to GT3 wheel liners and air guides to influence air flow? If I remember correctly, you are also running a center radiator and demonspeed gt3 front spoiler. Did you do anything to adjust the air flow with it as well?

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Yes, the wheel liners are vented. Yes, center radiator, but still using standard factory ducting. I know that ducting it like a GT2 will increase airflow and cooling, but unsure what the change in airflow would do to the drag. I'm running the Porsche GT3 Cup front spoiler. (I have 1 Porsche spare, and a Demonspeed spare)

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Thanks Tex. Are the vented wheel liners the GT3 liners or did you fabricate it? How about the GT3 side air guides, have you tried them? Where i am going with these questions is if the vented GT3 wheel liners and side air guides actually improve the air flow and help to eliminate front end float, or just improve front brake cooling. BTW, hope you do run some aero tests on the different set-ups! Be good to see.

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Fabricated I own some Joe Toth carbon fiber dive planes but haven't installed them. That's something I want to simulate too I'm not certain how it's changed anything except I think the engine runs a little cooler now. I didn't perform before and after tests because I modified the liners while waiting on parts. Thanks, I'll definitely share any results, but first hurdle is figuring out the 3D scanning process.

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Thank Tex. It will be a good exercise to go thru. I have been dragging my feet on aero for 22 years since I only need it at Road America at a couple of high-speed sections. Just didn't want to slow the car down with drag. But your comments got me thinking about the front end. Appreciate it.

From some expeirience i dont really think just adding the factory style aerikit wing will effect front end handling to a noticable degree. Some report a light front in the 80-90mph range on the hw but that can be atributed to tire pressure and a worn suspension most of the time. I know its inportant to match the areo back to front but the factory wings r just not high enough for a significant amount of drag. The Getty cup set up have does cause a significant amount of drag and i would deff have a splitter and canards if u decide to go race car.

Well, speak of the devils. Grassroot Motorsports just reposted their article: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/ar...eid=1436e75434

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Those vented GT3 wheel liners do eliminate front end float. That was my complaint a few months ago, and the front end remained planted after the installation. In fact, it was a bit too excessive as paired with the rear factory active spoiler: I could feel the rear end wiggle on turn-in at higher speeds. I really had to pay attention to my brake release to avoid unsettling the rear. Last week I removed my GT3 lower brake ducts (the ones that clip onto the lower control arm), and replaced them with the original puny brake ducts. I was happy to find out that this small change actually lessened the front downforce a smidge. It was enough to regain confidence on corner entry. My purpose for replacing those lower ducts with the smaller ones was for lesser drag, and I think it made a difference in that aspect too. All these observations weren�t very scientific, but rather just by the seat of the pants. Those upper GT3 brake ducts with the vented liners are quite expensive, but I think it�s worth the purchase. edit: I forgot to mention that I feel that there is a minor drag penalty with the vented GT3 liners and the upper brake ducts.

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Did you have to do any fabrication on the GT3 wheel liners or where they a direct fit? Did you add the side air guides as well? Did you notice any cooling advantages with lower coolant temps? Not as worried about major downforce. I am just looking for a slight bit more at 125 mph+. My set up is very stable at speed.

I just bought a Revopoint MetroX. It should be here in a few weeks.

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The gt3 liners and inner ducts bolt rights in even on a mk1 wheel well.i think there is one screw on the bottom corner that is meant for the gt3 (aero) bumper and may not line up to a c2 bumper. The inner guids snap right onto the coolant tubes and the system deff adds a ton of air to the brake cooling. U get pounds of clack on the inside ot the front wheels because the air flow pushes the hot rubber through the rim. Need to work on a better system for the back this winter. U can just block the bottom opening and louver the plastic if all u want to do is direct air through the rads.

@De Jeeper I am 90% sure you have GT3RS front liners and brake ducts. They are very nice.

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I with those bad boys r carbon fiber and big $. The wheel liners and inner scoops r just gts.....the parts that bolt to the upright to catch the air and direct it unto the rotor r RS parts because the upright is RS. See stailess parts in pic.

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As De Jeeper said, they�re a direct fit. However, I did have to notch a bit of the liner on the outer corner to get it to fit perfectly. It was easily done with a box cutter. Oddly enough, the GT3 liners didn�t fully seal the bottom, outer edge to the bumper. I�m not exactly sure why, but there is a sliver of a gap that allows air to escape. I haven�t tried to block it off yet; I�ll get around to it someday, though I�m content with it as it is. I wonder whether the GT3 bumpers are slightly different, or if they have some piece of trim that I�m missing from my mk1. Or maybe my bumper is just messed up. Are you referring to the �side air guides� as the curved plastic bits that clip onto the coolant hoses? If so, yes. (I call them upper brake ducts). The clips are nice and secure, but I had to reinstall them because my tire was rubbing on them at full-lock. I don�t actually notice any reduced coolant temperatures. My coolant temps remained the same at highway speeds. However I have actually noticed my coolant temps climbing a bit quickly when sitting at stoplights. The exit vent on those liners is pretty small, so I think that�s the reason for the increased rate of temperature gain. It�s manageable because I�ll manually activate my high-speed radiator fans to cool it down. I think this modification will be exactly what you�re looking for. It may actually be too good, and you might have to make a teensy suspension adjustment to accommodate. Either that, or maybe add a gurney flap to your active spoiler (something I was really considering, before I removed the front GT3 lower brake ducts).

Further to this, this thread got a little off topic but still useful My company recently bought a Faro commercial type of scanner which we use for industrial scanning of building/ process equipment etc Funnily enough I was the first to use it! Enables me to import into my software and start the process, once i've finished building my new mufflers.

I've done a little modelling of the cage as below. Still need to add baseplates to the main legs and confirm the shock tower plates work. Will start building in the next month or so.

Some updates on this for anyone that might be interested. I've redesigned the hoop to be a little simpler to bend, but still wanted the rear cross on the backstays, and I'm not too worried about a harness bar for now. I've had the plates for the strut tower tops laser cut and the tubes supplied/bent from a couple of local suppliers. Next I welded the strut tops and primed I've modelled this in Fusion 360 and have used this to make the templates for the tube notches using the sheet metal section and unfolded them. Then I've just printed these out and wrapped around the tube and marked. I'll be notching these this weekend all going well, and hope to get a fair bit of this tacked up ready to weld.

Update on the cage, spent my birthday (which happened to be a public holiday so a day off!), working on it. I've just ran out of argon so will need to grab some more today so i can finish the last few welds. Completed the strut bar, loosely placed on top of strut towers to check fit. Finished the main hoop with brace, fabbed up the backstays with the cross brace. I'm still in two minds as to whether i do stubs from the top of the main hoop with bolt through type fixings for the backstays or I do some Camburg type bolted fittings.

That is very nice work SimJen, looking very professional. I wish someone around here would do some of that type of fabrication, but costs here would probably equally a "big company" type price for the finished product. Keep up the good work !

Quick update, i went with the Camburg connectors for the back braces. These will be installed at the top of the main hoop enabling the back braces to be unbolted for install/ removal of the entire bar. Hoping to have it all complete by the weekend, my Por15 blue paint (to match my calipers) is ordered and should be here by then.

I hope you gave some consideration to the aluminum mounting plate for the DME, allowing you to remove the DME easily without unbolting the cage at the rear shock towers.

good question, yes there should be enough room. But its quick to remove the rear braces with this setup anyway.

Okay, very good. Carry on!

I recently saw a similar cage that used Camburg for the cross brace. I wish my cage had those so I could easily access the ECU. My cage would have to come out. I have plans to remove my cage before too long to remove the rear window tint and finally install the oil cooler gauge since it taps into the ECU. I wonder if I should modify my cage with the Camburg connectors so I can easily get back there. I think my seat brace would prevent that unless...

I'm sure you could get some fitted, just be wary that if you have a proper homologated cage then it will void its approval... Also make sure the Camburg's are type approved, some aren't. Otherwise go for it.

Another update, i was busy last night! Welded the back section on, took a little fiddling to get it all to line up. But i love the connectors! Super easy to bolt together! No issues with my stock seats, ideally I would like Pole positions but our vehicle laws here make it annoying to swap seats, due to the lower seat belt fixing being part of the factory sliders. If I could modify the existing and keep the seatbelt bracket intact then it would be simpler, something to look into later i think. Just a tidy up with a flap wheel to a few bits, then will paint blue over the weekend

You may want to check these side brackets out. They have a provision to mount a factory seat belt buckle. https://www.bkauto.com/R_9075_Side_M...o_p/r-9075.htm they also make a side bracket for the passenger side too. https://www.bkauto.com/R_9076_Side_M...o_p/r-9076.htm

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Thanks for that, our system requires anything that changes the existing mount point to be certified by an engineer.... so even these will be difficult to have accepted. If i was to use a factory seat and rail from a GT3 (big ears or sim) then they will allow it. Problem is, 911 seats aren't that plentiful here and I'm not sure i want to spend $10k on seats just yet.

Corbeau makes a replica 996 GT3 seat. It may be be able to pass your guys� stringent regulations. https://www.corbeau-seats.com/produc.../gt3-996-seats

Cage painted blue to match my calipers and fitted.

That is a great color choice! It pairs really well with the silver exterior!