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YOUR RESEARCHDBA 4000 series T3 rotors
Leading reported evidence
Run cheapo discs
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However your initial post said you ran cheapo discs on track cars which IMO is a big no no.
Leading evidence: 'Run cheapo discs' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace with cheaper solid rotors' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I use DBA T3's on my E46 M3 for track days with HT10 pads.
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They are on my wife's MDX, years on my race car (although some issues), years on my track S2000, used on a TSX, many other friends used them.
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Suggestion
But, my whole point in this conversation was to bring to light that if you are using the car for the street, a quality low priced alternative may be ok, instead of something higher end.
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I've used DBA on a WRX and I liked them. Very popular in Australia and Japanese awd crowd in general.
IIRC, it was these that either had the temp markers for the tracks or wear markers. I forget which for the DBA's.
So, when people say they "love" a rotor, what does that mean? Did you see some sort of improvement vs ??? How did you measure this improvement? i am wondering to help me in future decisions.
For me I look for features like cooling vane design, quality of metals, longevity, etc. all the cheap rotors are made with inferior metals from Taiwan usually. This can be a factor in how long they last and how easy they warp under heavy stress. Also some have the generic cooling vanes that don't cool or evacuate air as efficiently.
But as long as you stick to any popular brands out there, there won't be any noticeable differences. I have no loyalty to any specific brand but I do stick to all the popular ones.
If you're worried about rusty lug nuts like some members here
, the Zimmerman rotors are good rotors that come fully coated so the non pad contact areas stay nice and clean.
Point is features that matter to you should be one of the deciding factors as the performance aspect is very negligible between one rotor vs another.
Your comments echo my thoughts. For most of my cars, I have had no problems with Autozone rotors. My track car S2000, no problem. Only time I had issues with cheap rotors was on my race car coming off a hot session and not allowing them to cool sufficiently lead to cracking. For my Porsche, will I use Autozone or Rockauto? Possibly. Brake rotors are like brake pads, replace as needed.
I could not disagree with you more.
When it comes to stopping your vehicle, never compromise. I can understand choosing something that doesn't squeal, but never choose something because its cheap on brakes. Cheap rotors and pads do not stop as well, and can absolutely break. Inferior metals, subpar quality checks, old castings are all traits of people that make cheapo rotors.
Actually Autozone rotors was one of the ones I was referencing from Taiwan. These are what I consider throw away rotors and are perfectly adequate for Honda's for example. But due to the drilled nature of our rotors, I think you'll find more cracking as well as not too much difference in cost. The autozone rotors sometimes also come new thinner than spec so won't last as long.
You have a Porsche with a Brembo braking system. I think you owe it to yourself to get one of the quality brands like Zimmerman, Sebro, Brembo, Stoptech, DBA, etc. stay away from Centric and all the generic alternatives. My $.02
I never said cheap pads. :-) Just rotors. :-)
Not to be argumentative, but do you have proof? I have proof of using "cheap" rotors with no problems on the street. They are on my wife's MDX, years on my race car (although some issues), years on my track S2000, used on a TSX, many other friends used them. What I will say is that it is true that under high stressed track situations, the cheap rotors were not as good as better rotors. This is DEFINITELY true. But, for street cars, what proof do we have? Again, if you have evidence, I will definitely say I am wrong and back down.
Let me rephrase my thoughts... You definitely get what you pay for in some situations. Will I buy aftermarket non-DOT or non-FIA seats? No. Will I buy, things that are definitely proven and have enough evidence to cause a safety issue? No. In other hobbies I have (I used to race bicycles), to a point you do get what you pay for. But, sometimes, you are paying more for image than performance.
What I will say, that this upcoming year will be my first track year in a car that I will be going probably about 10-20 mph faster into braking zones. Once, the OEM rotors are done, I will see what is available. Will I go super cheap? No. Will I go OEM? No. I will find a happy medium. BUT, if this car NEVER saw the track or NEVER did canyon runs (I don't advocate driving reckless on the street), then I will probably go lower end.
I am covering this thread like a hawk. LOL.
I agree. (See my above post). What I was reacting to (maybe overreacting) is that usually I see people by expensive parts for no valid reason. I am throwing out there alternative thoughts and expect people to disagree. Thanks for the good discussion!!
I use DBA T3's on my E46 M3 for track days with HT10 pads. Front only.
Superb heat control and brake feel. Really impressed and will buy again. Show almost zero wear and have no problem hauling the car down from 140MPH to 60MPH lap after lap.
You can literally google brake disc failure and come up with thousands of sites and threads where drilled rotors crack at the drilling points. It sin't that much more expensive for name brand rotors but the performance gain is astronomical. Having matching sets of fronts and rear prevent domino fading of the brake system. The metals and their design of proper rotors can dissipate heat giving better heat cycles, longer reliability, and better stopping from mechanical/heat fade.
I hope I never get caught out on a track day with you. The fact you are willin to put sub-oem par brakes on your car to go track with... says a lot.
Wow, I hope to be passing you on a track. Lol. No seriously, lets not get personal and just have a facts talk.
Lets clear up some facts:
On previous cars with non slotted or drilled cheap Taiwan rotors, I have no problems on the street. I used solid face rotors. I never have used slotted or drilled rotors. I think for street cars slotted or drilled is just a fad. Wanna be race car look.
On this car that comes stock with drilled rotors, I will not replace with drilled cheap rotors. I may replace with cheaper solid rotors. You are correct, cheap drilled rotors are dangerous and I apologize I didn't make that clear.
haha no worries. My post sounded a lot more aggressive than it was meant to be. Sorry about that.
One of those photos is in fact a blank (non drilled or slotted rotor). I do agree that drilled/slotted for the street is a fad because you will never see those benefits without endangering lives. I missed your emphasis on cheaper rotors
for the street
. However your initial post said you ran cheapo discs on track cars which IMO is a big no no. I see no problem goign to an autozone and buying their entry level rotors for your sisters aunts cousins taurus. I do feel though however since the 996 BBK system was designed around having drilled rotors and is a performance car that you should stick to OEM quality/replacement quality type rotors. Thats like buying a powerboat and putting an econo prop blade on it and losing performance because the prop was cheaper.
I do believe cost per utilization between cheap rotors and expensive rotors evens out. The expensive ones last as long if no longer and give you a bonus in performance versus going with cheaper ones that warp prematurely (IMO) and can be a bigger headache.
I agree with your assessment.
I am cheap to a point... I just spent tons of money on a Raby Engine for this 996 that is more than the value of the entire car. Makes sense? No. But, I did because I want to enjoy the car. Will I buy the cheapest rotor? No. But, my whole point in this conversation was to bring to light that if you are using the car for the street, a quality low priced alternative may be ok, instead of something higher end. What is a quality low priced alternative, may have to be determined.
For me, yes, I will pick something mid-grade, but definitely not doing floating two piece rotor, etc. etc.
Ask Lewis Hamilton what he thinks about exploding brake rotors. I don't think he's a fan.
A guy I've AX'ed with before doesn't bother replacing his drilled rotors as long as the cracks between the holes have not yet met up. I have wondered on several occasions what would happen if they met up at the end of a braking zone after an 80+ mph straight section...
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