Motor mounts and transmission inserts - total waste of money.

My 996 is an '02 Cabrio 6-speed. I bought it with 37K on the clock and it has 41K now. Gripes included excessive wheel hop on launch (a 3500-rpm clutch dump in first is violent as hell and I immediately release the throttle and push in the clutch pedal) and hard / rubbery shifting into 3rd when driving aggressively. It came with Fabspeed Maxflow mufflers and current has muffler deletes, though those are going to be changed out for Top Gear loud sports mufflers once they arrive. So, first I bought a Ben's shifter. It was a noticeable improvement in shortening the shift throws and made the shifter feel a bit more connected, but no improvement on wheel hop (obviously) or when shifting into 3rd. Then I bought some Torque Solution semi-solid motor mounts. After install, my exhaust tips were maybe 1/2 inch higher, but I felt no noticeable change in driveability, and no improvement in wheel hop or shifting into third. The factory-looking motor mounts were very firm and appeared to be in good shape, so I don't think they were a weak point--maybe they'd been changed at some point. Last, I bought the Torque Solution street trans mount inserts. They were a bitch to get installed (hint, use lots of lube) and didn't sit even remotely flush over the trans mount. (Unlike the pictures you see of them installed where they look flush, that's for sure not the case.) They may have made a tiny improvement in shifting into 3rd, but I still missed 3rd once today during a 30-minute backroad run, and shifting into third still felt more rubbery than I'd like. There was not even the tiniest hint of increase in NVH after either the motor mounts or the trans mount inserts, though that might be because any N is almost certainly drowned out by the loud exhaust. There is definitely no additional VH. After reading reviews, I was scared off about going with the stiffer motor mounts and trans insert by people complaining about NVH. In hindsight, I should have gone full stiff and then backed off from there if it was too much. So now I'm irritated at wasted time and money, though at least if I decide to change out the trans inserts again, I ought to be able to do it more quickly.

I went genuine 964RS mounts - they are awesome. Also installed a Powerflex black transmission inserts - wouldn't recommend the black - that introduced more NHV than the engine mounts + numeric shift cables. You basically hear the internals of the gearbox working away.

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But how was shifting precision--specifically third gear? I'm super frustrated with the lack of improvement thus far so I don't care about NVH right now as long as the shifting feel is significantly improved. What's so awesome about the 964RS mounts?

If you're having shifting issues specifically in 3rd then it might be gearbox related? 964RS mounts just made the rear feel more connected and less roll/movement with the engine. Shifting is litrally perfect with: - numeric racing shifter + cables - 964RS engine mounts ​​​​​​- Powerflex black inserts I'll be removing the powerflex black and replacing with either powerflex yellow or FunctionFirst yellow.

Wheel hop ---> Suspension issues. All the rubber softens over the years and the dampers loose their ability to dampen. Check the gear cables attachment at the gear box, they tend to come loose. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...pics-help.html

Many 911s wheel hop when you dump the clutch like that. These cars are not meant for this type of driving. Car reviewers have noted this for years.

It's a sports car, not a drag racer. Who does a clutch dump @3500RPM in first gear in a sports car and doesn't expect some wheel tramping? How long do you think your clutch will last doing that? Maybe you should upgrade to some racing slicks........

If you're going to dump the clutch, you need to have enough power to get the tires lit up to mitigate wheel hop. As said above, 911s have a tendency to wheel hop and there's not a lot I know of that can be done to eliminate it. I side step clutch at a much higher RPM than you and only when I am too slow on the clutch let out do I get excessive wheel hop. It's not a mustang and does not have much power at 3.5K RPM, don't try to drive it like it is.

Honestly I'm not worried about the wheel hop--it was just that people recommended the new motor mounts as a cure for wheel hop, but they didn't make a lick of improvement for me. The shifting into third gear during aggressive driving issue is what bugs me. Should I try a stiffer trans insert, or just replace the mount entirely? I feel like the inserts are the bandaid fix for people who don't have the tool to remove and reinstall the mount itself. I don't think there's an issue with the trans itself--shifting under "normal" driving is spot-on.

I had a repeating but hard to replicate issue shifting into 3rd during spirited driving, it basically felt like it locked me out on first attempt to engage. Being new to Porsches i at first chalked it up to user error. When it continued happening even after i had accumulated 10k+ miles on the car i moved from �user error� to motor mounts. Though my car idled quietly i changed out mm with OEM mounts and haven't experienced the 3rd gear issue since.

For rifle bolt shift action I hear the Numeric Shifter plus Numeric shifter cables is the way to go.

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Id agree with this I don't necessarily agree that the inserts are bandaid fixes for people who can't get the tool. If the insert is deteriorated its not recommended to add the insert. Mine was in good condition so I added the insert for performance.

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^^^ This. It's not a drag car, fleshrocket.

The majority of performance �upgrades� are a waste of money. If you want to spend your $$ doing them that�s cool but most give little if any added performance, but will make ride quality, NVH and driveability worse. What are the odds these small �performance� outfits will out engineer Porsche? That being said, I did the Fister mufflers cuz it just sounds cool. Won�t make my car any faster though.

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Just a couple point Mr Fleshrocket... 1) If you're not worried about the wheel hop why'd you make such a big deal about it to begin with? (2) The inserts can be a "band-aid fix" for mounts that are beginning to fail, but they're better utilized in conjunction with a new mount. IMO if you install the inserts (regardless of durometer) with a new mount, it will never fail again. (3) "I don't think there's an issue with the trans itself--shifting under "normal" driving is spot-on."... Well there you go ! - work on your shifting skillz... If these suggestions don't do it for you, I recommend 1) altering your expectations (as others have said, these are not drag cars) or (2) Find a car that better fits your needs/expectations...

Fleshrocket, has the transmission fluid been changed recently? Might be worth a try. Also check cable adjustments. Always good to check basics before going to bolt ons. Did anything with regards to the 3rd gear thing, change after doing the short shifter swap? Better, worse, or same?

In looking at the Torque Solution trans mount insert compared to the PowerFlex and Function First inserts, they are designed fundamentally differently at the bottom. Torque Solution: http://www.torquesolution.com/Mount-...s-por-459r.htm PowerFlex: https://www.powerflexusa.com/shop/pr...t-bushing-2412 Function First: http://www.function-first.com/produc...s-mount-insert Since the PowerFlex design mirrors the fancy, high-dollar Function First design, I'm going to wager that it works differently (presumably better). So, I ordered a set of PowerFlex race inserts. We'll see how those work out. To sum up: --Ben's shifter - Helped a little bit with shifting into 3rd under high RPM conditions. --Torque Solution engine mounts - Made no changes in feel at all under any circumstances, including NVH. --Torque Solution street trans insert - Made a tiny improvement, but not nearly enough. I don't think there is any issue with the cables (at least not yet) because the shifter seems to hit every clear precisely in all situations except third gear when I'm railing on it. But I won't write them off yet.

I had the torque solutions mounts and they ABSOLUTELY increased vibration inside the cabin and transmitted way more exhaust sound. Unless you want nothing but a track car I say pass on even semi solids.

You problem was never the mounts or the shifter.

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I'm running muffler deletes right now so I don't think anything will transmit enough noise to overpower what's coming out the tailpipes. But we'll see. Definitely no change in vibration with either the motor mounts or the street trans inserts. I honestly wonder if the design of the Torque Solution inserts is such that they don't really quell the twisting motion of the transmission.

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Aaaaaaannnnnddddd......?

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Stop throwing parts at it hoping it will fix it.Either do a systematic diagnosis or get someone that know how to do one.

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I don't know what a "systematic diagnosis" is. Rennlist wisdom has suggested that shifting issues can be due to: --motor mounts (replaced) --trans mount (added inserts) --shifter (replaced) --shifter cables (not yet) --transmission internals (no) --clutch (replaced) The closest shop I trust is 2+ hours away, which means 5 hours to drop off the car, and again to pick it up, so not at all convenient. So either I throw parts at it in my garage or I live with it. The main point of this thread is to caution people that some of the solutions that others have sworn by may not be at all helpful.

I might be wrong but I dont recall ever reading any of those mods fixing 'wheel hop'.

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I don't remember the exact threads I read (pretty sure they were on Rennlist), but Google for "wheel hop engine mounts porsche 996" and there are a ton of hits. https://www.google.com/search?q=whee...hrome&ie=UTF-8 I'm not making up this stuff.

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Sorry I meant companies but you're right UPS motorsports do claim reduced wheel hop. Just throwing this out there - what brand, size and age your tyres? How much tread do they have left? Maybe wheel hop is an American term but am I right in understanding that your wheels are almost skipping and not gripping when you're dumping the clutch in 1st at 3,500rpm? I'd say you just should avoid doing that?

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You Tube

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LOL this is a very good point as nothing will transmit noise and vibration like muffler deletes! They're so f'ing loud!

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Tires are almost new (1000 miles-ish) Pirelli PZero Rossos, 265/35R18. Previously, I had a set of new BFG ultra-high-performance all-seasons on it and those wheel hopped just as badly. (Got rid of those because they wouldn't balance right--got vibration through the steering wheel and seat of the pants.) Yes, I am not going to do anything to induce wheel hop as long as it's an issue. As the Mustang Cobra guys say, "if it hops, stop".

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Actually, last night I just replaced the muffler deletes with Top Gear loud sports mufflers, The exhaust is MUCH quieter (but still noticeably louder than the Fabspeed Maxflows) but there's still no NVH to speak of.

If you have difficulty with a specific gear - it's unlikely a mount issue. More likely in the transmission itself. I just went through this - occasional trouble with 2nd. Did all the usual things you read about on the forums: -adjust shift cables at shifter -change transmission fluid -install ball bearing detent hack Every change was followed by "maybe it's a little bit better" - but it wasn't. Even changed the motor mounts (more as matter of time/maintenance as car was new to me; but was secretly hoping for some magical fix to my shifting problem). In the end, I knew from the beginning it was likely in the transmission itself. Asked my Indy - he agreed. Put in a rebuilt transmission from Gbox - great shifting ever since. New mounts may tighten things up (feeling wise), but wont fix an actual shift problem imho. Your shift problem is likely in your transmission.

+1 for the 964/993 RS engine mounts. By comparison pretty much all other aftermarket options (which are the same design overall) are junk.

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Systematic diagnosis is that you inspect the part and then determine if it needs replacing. But for that you need to know what you are doing. Taking advise from the internet and treating it like a diagnosis is not you should be doing. People here can make suggestions but is it up to you to know how to check it but all you are seems to be doing it throwing parts at it and then complain when they don't do anything. Sounds to me that you have an axle hop problem but then again that's just a guess since your description is not that accurate. The best would be for you to find someone that knows more about cars than you and have them have a look at it. Just look at all the confusion from all the posts where everyone is trying to figure what exactly is the problem that you are trying to fix.

Not trying to be a smart **** (honest), but in reading your comments I think if you refrain from doing these things below, you�ll solve the wheel hop issue without having to spend another dime. �the shifter seems to hit every clear precisely in all situations except third gear when I'm railing on it.� �dump the clutch at 3,500rpm�.

Bump it up to 5K and then dump it, report back

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Fortunately, I am confident it is not a transmission issue. There are numerous threads about difficulty shifting into 3rd gear. Google results: https://www.google.com/search?q=shif...hrome&ie=UTF-8 A Rennlist thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-3rd-gear.html This guy describes it spot on:

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I feel like you're trolling. I tried launches at 4K and 4500, and wheel hop galore. (A few weeks ago. Not now, as a result of your suggestion.) So if you are being serious, I am dubious that another 500rpm will be the magical workaround.

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What is so good about the 964/993 RS mounts compared to the other options?

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That all sounds good in theory, but not so good in practice. It is commonly stated that motor mounts and the trans mount, if original, are worn out due to being ~20 years old. Short of inspecting for visible tearing, or shaking the mounts around to check for play, it's difficult to determine conclusively if they are good or bad. By the time I go through the trouble of removing a part that is a known wear item to inspect it, I might as well just install a new part instead of reinstalling the old part. Now, if I wasn't having these issues, I wouldn't be pulling any of these parts to inspect them, but I am, so I am. I don't need someone who knows more about cars, I need someone who knows more about these specific issues with Porsche 996s. And the closest shop I trust is 2+ hours away, so instead of wasting a ton of time dropping off and retrieving my car, I am wasting slightly less time replacing parts in my own garage. I'm not sure how much more concise I can be. Shifting into third under high RPM conditions feels "rubbery". And clutch-dump launches give excessive wheelhop.

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I can obviously refrain from clutch-dump launches to avoid the wheel hop problem, but when I drive my 911 like the sports car it is on the back roads, there are numerous high-RPM second-to-third gear shifts, all of which feel less than satisfactory. I am not okay with that.

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You don't have a 996 specific problem. What you have is a transmission problem and any transmission shop should be able to test drive your car and give their professional opinion. You keep throwing parts at it in hope of fixing it but that isn't working because you have no idea how to diagnose the problem. As for the wheel hop, all that weight over the axles will make the car hop, that's just how it is. The axles were not designed for hard launches.

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I really LOL'd at this, but wait, why stop there? Just run it up to the rev limiter every time! Report back on how that works out. Here's hoping that will break traction, smoke the tires and stop the wheel hop.

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I disagree with your assessment that it is a transmission problem, at least not an internal transmission problem. Additionally, no transmission shop will be able to duplicate the problem, because their test drive isn't going to involve driving the car like I do, for example upshifting to third at redline while driving out of a corner. Thirdly, even if a transmission shop could duplicate the issue, the chances of them knowing how to address a 996-specific issue (and it is 996-specific, unless you're going to tell me that there are other cars that exhibit this same issue.. and if so, I'd love to hear which ones) is highly unlikely and they would most almost definitely end up throwing parts at the car as well. Respectfully, your suggestions would be great in an ideal fantasy world, but are slightly less practical in the real world.

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https://www.gboxweb.com

Or u do have an internal trans issue like a worn syncro. It would show up most during a high rpm shift. 1st snd 2nd r both double syncroed to help with high rpm up and down shifts but 3rd is not. Maybe call gbox and see if u can talk with a tech. i also dont think replacing 20yr old rubber mounts was a waste of money even if they didnt fix your issue. Im sure they were aged out.

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I think he bought the wrong car. Probably should go back to driving a Honda.

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Just for ****s and grins, I emailed them. They're in Colorado, and I'm in IL, so suffice it to say I won't be bringing my car to them for diagnosis. LOL

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Ooooooh, ZING! Current / previous cars: '15 S4 6MT '08 M5 6MT '04 Mustang Cobra 6MT '94 Caprice wagon (not your granddad's station wagon) '89 Mustang GT convertible 5MT '93 Mustang LX notch 5MT '88 Fiero GT 5MT '82 Chevy Monte Carlo (229 V6, high 18-second 1/4 mile.. ) Alas, no Hondas, though I wouldn't mind owning an S2000 or an NSX.

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Sounds you already made up you mind what the problem is and don't need any help. You are abusing the $hit out of a 20 year old car with a 20 year old transmission and wonder why it isn't working the way you expect it to ?

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Then why are you wasting their time as well as all the people on this forum?

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Yes but the OP was expect it to fix his transmission issue and then started this thread with a title that it doesn't do $hit.

One of the great mysteries about buying a used car is how did the previous owner(s) treat the car. If this car ever comes up for sale here on Rennlist at least there will be some history.

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Yeah, that dude needs some new leaf springs or a good set of traction bars!

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HEY NOW! I've got a 2019 Honda Type R and would never side-step the clutch at 3,500 rpm starting in first gear. Not that it would necessarily wheel hop and it might, but...that is just not smart and it's not a dragster!

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Should I have said; Toyota? Maybe a Prius? Honda makes good cars. I wasn't knocking that. The OP needs to address his driving "style" and analyze the issue better than he has. Coming here to complain about advice on the internet, does himself no favors.

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I'm sorry, I didn't realize that this was the "drive your P-car like a little old lady because it's too old" club. Better tell everyone else who doesn't baby their more-than-a-few-years-old sports cars, and don't forget to clue in the vintage racers.

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It's not a mystery. If you're buying a sports car, expect that it has been driven hard. Driven hard and abuse are not the same thing. I always drive my cars gently until the oil is up to temp. I do redline them frequently, but only on a warm motor. I occasionally do launch hard from a dig. (Not in my 911, though, due to wheel hop. And the clutch is weak in my S4, so I have to launch just off idle. My M5 launched best from about 4500rpm, no wheel hop. My Mustang Cobra would just roast the tires if launched from more than 2000rpm or so.) If something breaks as a result, it gets fixed.

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Oh, okay. So when internet wisdom says "do this to fix your problem" and "this" doesn't fix the problem, people shouldn't share? Users on Rennlist and on other sites have specifically said "motor mounts can fix wheel hop and rubbery shifting" and "trans mount inserts can fix rubbery shifting". While this may be true in SOME cases, it is clearly not true in all cases. But yeah, I'll not share my experiences because you said not to.

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A clutch-dump launch is the quickest way to accelerate from a dig for many cars. Quite a few modern sporty cars (including Porsches) have launch control which engages the driveline from high engine RPM to help out with this; older cars' launch control is the driver's feet. I looked up your Civic Type R.. it apparently doesn't have launch control specifically, but it does limit RPM in neutral to 3500. That's probably a bit too low for a good clutch-dump launch on a FWD turbo 4-cylinder car, though. And some people were complaining about wheel hop as well.

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I assume you're trying to make an insult with the Prius comment, but heck if I can figure out what your logic is. Did Prii (plural of Prius? LOL) suddenly become great sports cars? I missed the memo about not complaining on the internet about advice received on the internet. Hold on, let me go edit my posts accordingly!

In unrelated news, I replaced the Torque Solution street trans mount inserts with Powerflex race inserts last night. Only took me two hours, start to finish, compared to more than double that the first time. The Torque Solution mounts are, plainly, junk. They are almost impossible to slide in--I had to use a c-clamp and blocks of wood to get them to slide in, and as soon as I released pressure, they started trying to work their way out. The rubber backing areas are so fat that the piece of metal that goes between the trans mount and the car's body doesn't even touch the trans mount--instead, it rides on the insert. And since the rubber backing areas are so fat, it's hard to get the body mount pieces aligned properly. The Powerflex inserts slid in easily--I was able to get them almost fully seated by hand. I used a c-clamp and wood block for the last little bit. The rubber backing areas are the same thickness as the stock rubber pieces, so the body mounts rest directly on the trans mount. I took some pictures of the mounts side-by-side--just need to post them here. Some people have complained wildly about the increased NVH with the race inserts. Not so in my case. There is some gearbox whine that is audible over the exhaust (Top Gear loud sports mufflers) under very light throttle, but otherwise the exhaust overpowers it. (Mine is a convertible, and my initial drive was with the top down. Were my car a coupe, my opinion might be different. I have a hard top on the way--I'll chime in on the NVH after installing it.) The whine reminds me of the sound of the gear-driven cams in my VFR800, just quieter. (Love that sound.) There is maybe a tiny bit of vibration noticeable through the steering wheel under light throttle / low RPM, but it's hardly bothersome. Shifting into third gear while driving hard is noticeably better than with the Torque Solution street mounts. Not as good as the other five gears, but better. I'm going to change the trans fluid next--I assume it's got the factory fill in it still.

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You should never just rep[lace parts because of what someone on the internet said. You should only use that as a guide to point you in a direction that might be worth checking. You should ALWAYS check the the parts and ONLY replace them if they are the cause of your issues. Instead you just fired the parts cannon at it and then are now pi$$ed that it didn't fix the problem. You did a crappy diagnosis and you are the only one to blame for this. You abuse the fack out of your cars and that's pretty clear now from all you latest post. I do too but I don't come here complaining when something doesn't work the way I've expected it to on a 20 year old car. I've shoehorned a supercharger into the 928, 15 years ago, using nothing more than junkyard parts and had failures that resulted in head gasket replacement, clutch roasted and so on. You don't see me coming here and crying about it. My 996 engine's crankshaft bearings got cooked at the drag strip and I'm in the end stages of getting the fixed engine back in the car but you won't find me complaining about it. When something breaks, I do a proper diagnosis and go from there. Throwing parts at it was never in my budget or my mindset. That's just lazy and sloppy work.

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This is true for certain 911 models. I believe the newer Porsche vehicles have been designed to accommodate this. Porsche claimed, for example, one of their 911s - not sure which - is designed for repeated launches, all under warranty. https://www.carscoops.com/2014/03/ho...ou-use-launch/ https://www.topspeed.com/cars/car-ne...-ar187703.html The base 996s, however, are not designed for this.

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What color is the sky in the fanciful world in which you live? If you consider my driving style to be abusive, I take it you're part of the "little old lady driver" club. And I get it, you're not alone. When shopping for 911s, I was at a boutique dealer and was talking to him about how the power delivery felt rather odd on a previous 911 I'd driven. "Wait, you redlined a car on a test drive?" "Well yeah. I let it warm up first, but I'm going to test drive it like I'm going to drive it if I owned it." "You should NEVER redline a car--I would never let you drive one of my cars like that." "Really? Okay, your cars, your prerogative. Thanks, but no thanks." If I was working on some high-dollar, high-labor project, then yes, it would make more sense to diagnose thoroughly first, and then proceed. However, in my case, I would rather R&R parts once rather than multiple times. For example, rather than remove the motor mounts, inspect them, decide that they are questionable, reinstall them, order replacements, remove the mounts again, and install the new ones, I prefer to just remove the old ones as they are a wear item that is likely to need to be replaced, and then just install new ones. Maybe I could have gotten by with the old motor mounts for a while longer, but why bother? That said, my thread title about this stuff being a total waste of money was written in a moment of frustration. A more accurate title would have been something like "Motor mounts and transmission inserts - didn't address wheel hop or rubbery shifting".

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If I wanted a clutch dump car I would have bought a 700 hp Dodge. The Type R is NOT that type of car neither is my 996. Reading what you did and from wherever tells you nothing about a Type R. There is absolutely no reason to dump the clutch at a high rpm and accelerate from a "dig" in the Type R nor the 996. You have made your point over and over and over...you are unhappy that the internet suggested you make certain parts replacements and your 996 is still not a Pro Gas car that will blast off from a green light. Sorry sounds like you bought the wrong car. There are people in this thread who have been trying to share their experience as well as their opinions and all you want to do is get pissy with them...your choice...I'm out.

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Amusingly, a 700hp Hellcat Dodge is a terrible car to clutch dump. The rear tires would be easily overwhelmed. A 485hp SRT Dodge has a much better balance of traction and power and will provide much better results with a clutch-dump launch. Thank you for presuming to know exactly how every Type R and 996 should be driven. Thank you for presuming to know what kind of car I should buy. I actually enjoy my 911 quite a bit. Pissy? Hardly. I'm enjoying some good-natured internet banter! You guys ARE all being good-natured, right? LOL This is cutting into my Friday afternoon productivity a bit, though.

All this clutch dump talk has me itching to throw my old smoked sumis on and **** off the world in smoking donut fashion. Unfortunately the Michelin’s I put in just have too much grip for real hoonery, and if I’m honest, I miss it a bit. I said earlier in the thread to fix the wheel hop, launch Way higher than whatever low RPM was mentioned, even better, couple that with some **** tires. I dig your style man, it’s not a drag car, who gives a **** do with it what you want. Break what you want and have fun doing it. Just watch out for that wheel hop cause she’ll eat axles, diffs and trannies (the good kind)

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That's the trick--finding a tire that is sticky enough but not too sticky. I stuck with the skinnier 265/35R18 rear tire (what my Cabrio came with from the PO) because the car corners very neutrally as-is, and I wouldn't want to give it too much grip in the rear and make it prone to understeer. Even with the 265s, it takes a fair amount of work to get the dog to wag its tail around second gear corners. I almost want a little less grip out back. (I'm using the factory-fitted Pzero Rossos--really!) LOL I already tried 4500rpm and it was hoppy as hell. You think even higher than that?! The tires seemed to have no problem breaking loose at 4500rpm.. just hoppy. If I lay into first gear when turning, though, it'll easily step out the rear end without hopping, and I'm sure it'll do donuts galore. Not trying to kill off my nearly new Rossos too prematurely, but when they're mostly worn, I'll give them some extra hell! Yeah, I definitely won't do clutch dumps if it's gonna hop. Where's the thumbs up emoji? LOL

If I told you my process for launching the internet would throw me into jail for Porsche abuse. I�ll give you some context though. i drove and 500WHP widebody EVO for a while with 285s on all 4 corners. I would launch that car at 6K on the 2 step and 10+ LBS of boost and as long as it roasted 4 tires the world was in perfect alignment. Traction doing less that 30MPH would mean sending the TCase to shep for a rebuild and maybe the trans too. I like to drive my cars aggressively and know that when you do stupid **** you are likely to win stupid prizes, but sometimes you win awesome ones too. the reality is I don�t do stuff like that often, but like to when I want and yeah, wheel hop is a reality in these cars in most cases, even when you get it as right as it can be. So proceed accordingly. Or don�t. Your car. Your parts. Your wallet.

The 3rd gear thing is really common in pretty much all getrag boxes.. bent shift fork/damaged synchro.. Porsche/BMW/Audi/VW all share a ton of the design basics internally and all have a weak gear, some its second some its third depending on ratios and which order of gear stack its got.. You avoid it by shifting precisely and smoothly, which BTW will get just about any car around the track faster.. I took care of a local rental fleet for SCCA events for several years, we had small nissan sedans and you almost could not keep second gear in them.. I could listen first lap and tell if the customer was buying a trans rebuild.. Good luck.

Did you change the shift forks when the clutch was done ? This is a common failure point that should be changed when you do the clutch .

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You are the perfect example of "Let's throw parts at it and see if fixes it" owner. It's clear that you have no idea how to diagnose a problem. You are trying to talk to talk but there is no experience behind any of it but I have to give it to you, you are stubborn as they come. My driving style is far from a grandma otherwise why on earth would have I grafted on a supercharger on my 928?