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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHTook the flywheel out, surprise surprise!
Leading reported evidence
Replace sop is
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
When the RMS is replaced SOP is to not install it to exactly where the old or previous one was installed.
Leading evidence: 'Replace sop is' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check flywheel.there is a simple' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Most important - check the flywheel.There is a simple but rather odd procedure for this .Lots elsewhere if you search.
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Suggestion
The SOP (again) is when replacing the RMS to replace the IMS flange with the new improved 3-ribbed seal and new micro-encapsulated bolts.
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Suggestion
The problem is while the RMS removal/installation is a piece of cake easy -- relatively speaking -- to replace the IMS flange requires more work.
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Suggestion
The SOP (again) is when replacing the RMS to replace the IMS flange with the new improved 3-ribbed seal and new micro-encapsulated bolts.
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7 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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It looks like the flywheel of this car was previously removed and my guess was to change the RMS due to a leak. While the car was not leaking on the floor, it looks like the RMS not pushed to its propper depth, its right at the border... Also, they used green locktite on the flywheel bolts where I think you are suppose to put them dry correct? The last thing I noticed is that they put silicone around the IMS flange... Im guessing they did this to prevent any oil or dirt to go inside?
The first owner of this car or whoever worked on it was a lil piggy
Before cleaning:
After Cleaning:
When the RMS is replaced SOP is to not install it to exactly where the old or previous one was installed. The old seal can have worn a groove in the crank and if the new seal is installed at this same point the new seal can leak.
As long as the seal is installed fully into the block and it is square and it is no installed exactly where the previous seal was installed that is about all that matters
The sealant may have been to address a leaking IMS flange and bolts. The SOP (again) is when replacing the RMS to replace the IMS flange with the new improved 3-ribbed seal and new micro-encapsulated bolts. Even if the IMS flange is the new style it probably should be replaced. Oftentimes it is hard to impossible to know if the RMS is leaking or if the IMS flange/bolts is leaking.
The problem is while the RMS removal/installation is a piece of cake easy -- relatively speaking -- to replace the IMS flange requires more work.
A DIY'er might have decided that was too much work and tried to reseal the flange or the bolts with sealant.
There is a special diy tool to seat the RMS correctly- search Renntech.
When you see sloppy work in a vital area like the IMS it makes me suspicious of all the work done by the P.O. For example -is just the seal on the flange of the IMS damaged or did he gouge the case ?
Probably need to get the IMS tool ,remove,inspect and put a better bearing in there ?
Most important - check the flywheel.There is a simple but rather odd procedure for this .Lots elsewhere if you search. Refitting a worn DMF is an expensive mistake eventually:
The LuK Dual-Mass Flywheel (DMF) -- simply explained! [Schaeffler] - YouTube