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YOUR RESEARCHFlushing clutch fluid
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Install slave
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BTW, I installed a new slave on my old Alfa Romeo last year, it was a PITA to get it bleed, then after some time of using it, the air popped up to the master and no problem any longer.
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I use heavy silicone grease on the nipple threads to help counter this.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Then I bleed my brakes afterwards so when I filled up the master it was clean fluid only.
Use pressure bleeder as if you were bleeding the brakes
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Suggestion
You top off the reservoir and use a pressure bleeder as if you were bleeding the brakes.
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Suggestion
Because your system has not been broken and doesn't have air in it, just use the pressure bleeding way.
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BTW, I installed a new slave on my old Alfa Romeo last year, it was a PITA to get it bleed, then after some time of using it, the air popped up to the master and no problem any longer.
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1999 C2 911 Cab. 6 spd.
Attached are 2 photo of what I believe is the clutch slave cylinder. Part number 996 116 237 05.
Closeup shows the part number clearly and wide shot shows where it is on the car. Photo is from underneath the car on the drivers side. Slave cylinder sits on top of the transaxle about where the drive shaft is to the driver rear wheel.
I am told I can attach a tube to this bleeder valve and using a common oil can pump, pump brake fluid in by opening the valve up and pumping in fluid. New fluid, along with any trapped air, will be pumped up into the brake fluid reservoir and that completes the clutch flush.
Then bleeding the brakes as usual.
Do I have this right before I proceed?
You can see the slave cylinder bleeder valve in the wide shot just slightly blocked by another line. The other outlet has a hard line connected to it that spirals a few times and leads to what I believe would be the master clutch cylinder up near the clutch pedal.
No, that's not the factory way. There's a diy on renntech.org for this. You top off the reservoir and use a pressure bleeder as if you were bleeding the brakes. Then some sequence of handling the clutch pedal by hand.
Ok. Have you heard of doing this way? The advantage of this way I am told is that whatever air might be in the master and slave clutch cylinders is force UP, the natual way air wants to flow, and this air then is pushed up into the reservoir. Forcing it down with pressure from the reservoir only forces the air down, against it's natural path, and inevitably some will remain.
Not sure my way holds true because you could argue that bleeding brakes the normal way would leave air since you are forcing it down to the bleeders while the air wants to travel up to the reservoir.
If you youtube and search "Porsche clutch fluid" you will stumble on the video of a guy who does it this way with his BMW's and other cars. Logic is that any air in the master and slave clutch cylinders is harder to purge than is from the brakes.
Thanks, I'll check out renntech.org first.
Right on, I'm with ya.
It's called a "push back bleeding" technique.
I researched a little more and found this out. This way just ensures more air is purged since air flows up in liquid.
Some potential (maybe academic) drawback I could see:
- chance of introducing dirt into the system when you push fluid in from the nipple end as the nipple end could have debris
- you pushed all the old fluid to the brake reservoir to contaminate the rest of the brake fluid
Um, I think I'll stick with the pressure bleeding way.
I have done it this way on my BMW motorcycle brakes with my motive bleeder. You will get more brake fluid leakage around the bleeder than if you go top to bottom. I use heavy silicone grease on the nipple threads to help counter this.
I do it this way on the bike because I never bought a reservoir cap to modify to use with the Motive bleeder and the reservoir is a pain to open and close, 4 screws, to add fluid. And it is way too easy to bump the handlebars and spill brake fluid on the fairing if you leave it open
The guy with the BMW method on the video (seen that before) is primarily focused on when you replace the slave cylinder and have trouble bleeding the air out of it.
Because your system has not been broken and doesn't have air in it, just use the pressure bleeding way. Air won't get introduced unless you do something wrong.
BTW, I installed a new slave on my old Alfa Romeo last year, it was a PITA to get it bleed, then after some time of using it, the air popped up to the master and no problem any longer.
Why do you want to bleed it? Just maintenance? Or do you have an issue?
Can you access this? IM me if not and I can send you a copy.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/54-brakeclutch-fluid-change-and-bleeding-instructions/
Just did it the way I described. Worked well. By the way when you do it this way you suck out the old fluid from the master so when the new fluid is pushed up it flows into the empty reservoir, then you suck that dirty fluid out.
Then I bleed my brakes afterwards so when I filled up the master it was clean fluid only.
Then I did a final flush (I'm ****) of the clutch the regular way. This way no old fluid mixes with new.
I agree with you guys that it is just a better way to do it when you are replacing the slave and/or master since the air is removed better and faster.
To answer someone's question, no there is nothing wrong, just doing PM. Just got the car 3 months ago and getting everything sorted.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
