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YOUR RESEARCHAlternator pulley removal - is pulley standard or reverse threaded?
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Replace overrun/free wheeling pulley
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
That being said, I've only replaced an overrun/free wheeling pulley once before.
Alternator pulley removal - is pulley standard or reverse threaded?
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Leading evidence: 'Replace overrun/free wheeling pulley' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Recommend .it can do no harm' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Glad you used a more elegant technique - and it worked !
Alternator pulley removal - is pulley standard or reverse threaded?
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Recommend .it can do no harm
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Alternator pulley removal - is pulley standard or reverse threaded?
Run / clutch style pulley
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Suggestion · Original poster
For those that don't know - it is an over run / clutch style pulley.
Alternator pulley removal - is pulley standard or reverse threaded?
Tighten pulley bolt
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Suggestion
Considering the engine rotates clockwise when viewed from the engine compartment, what you said above makes a lot of sense (the engine tends to tighten the pulley bolt when it rotates).
Alternator pulley removal - is pulley standard or reverse threaded?
Tighten pulley bolt
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Suggestion
Considering the engine rotates clockwise when viewed from the engine compartment, what you said above makes a lot of sense (the engine tends to tighten the pulley bolt when it rotates).
Alternator pulley removal - is pulley standard or reverse threaded?
Use special tool
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Suggestion · Original poster
I'm in the process of trying to remove my alternator pulley using a special tool that I just purchased - but I'm questioning the sizing because it doesn't seem to fit snuggly into the bolt that holds the pulley on.
Alternator pulley removal - is pulley standard or reverse threaded?
Use strap wrench
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Suggestion
If you have a good-quality strap wrench with a rubber strap (not a chain strap, for obvious reasons*), you can also use the strap wrench to keep the pulley stationary while removing the bolt.
Alternator pulley removal - is pulley standard or reverse threaded?
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Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
23 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 1 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
After several failed attempts at brute force, I figured out a trick that worked splendidly - only a slight cut on my forearm as collateral damage.
No unique explicit quoted action; no causal link assigned
NEARBY ACTION · LINK UNVERIFIED
Considering the engine rotates clockwise when viewed from the engine compartment, what you said above makes a lot of sense (the engine tends to tighten the pulley bolt when it rotates).
I'm in the process of trying to remove my alternator pulley using a special tool that I just purchased - but I'm questioning the sizing because it doesn't seem to fit snuggly into the bolt that holds the pulley on.
The tool is 10mm x 12 point to remove the bolt, and has a 33 spline sleeve that locks the pulley itself. The sleeve fits perfectly into the pulley, but the center piece doesn't want to fully seat.
EDIT: I've confirmed the tool does indeed fit - it just required a bit of tapping to get it seated fully. That being said, I've only replaced an overrun/free wheeling pulley once before. If I remember correctly, I hold the alternator shaft in place with the center tool and then turn the pulley itself counter-clockwise to loosen it? Does that sound right?
Thanks
Charlie
Thanks Schnell. That makes sense. I'm going to operate under the assumption that the threading is the same as in that video. It sounds like you essentially lock the pulley in place and then turn the center bolt counter-clockwise - essentially spinning the pulley off.
Even if you DIY and use the porsche part....its still $360.00....lol. That kind of price gouging should be a crime.
The battery light briefly flashed at me during a 4th gear pull....and we began the investigation.
That's silly price. We can get a brand new Bosch alternator for our car for $277
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IYAAYE/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_2?colid=V2MH46P7FGPA&coliid=I3JO4MD22230LO
"Even if you DIY and use the porsche part....its still $360.00....lol. That kind of price gouging should be a crime."
I agree... but the Porsche font is pretty cool
FYI - I got the pulley from Pelican for like $40.
I've been noticing a whine during cold startup in cooler weather. Removed the belt and found my upper deflector pulley was going bad - so I replaced it. During the troubleshooting I shut the car off and continued to hear a whine - which indicates either the pulley on the alternator or a bearing inside the alternator. I'm betting on the pulley. Just rolling it around with my fingers it feels slightly off. I'll know soon.
For those that don't know - it is an over run / clutch style pulley. Basically its designed to allow the alternator to freewheel or spin at a higher RPM with momentum in the event of the engine RPMs sudden dropping. My understanding is this keeps voltage output more consistent + less wear on the belt since it isn't being used to brake the alternator's momentum when the engine RPM drops. So, when you shut the engine off, the alternator continues to spin for a few seconds - which helps narrow down where a noise is coming from since all other pulleys stop immediately.
I'm still not 100% sure which way the pulley unscrews - any help would be appreciated. From what I can see, looking at the thread on the new pulley, it tightens by turning the pulley to the right and either holding the alternator stationary or turning alternator shaft left. So if I'm correct that means to remove it, you spin the shaft right and the pulley left. Can anyone confirm?
Considering the engine rotates clockwise when viewed from the engine compartment, what you said above makes a lot of sense (the engine tends to tighten the pulley bolt when it rotates).
Alright. I got the pulley off. For the record, the pulley unscrews counter-clockwise. Mine was on there very, very tight. I could not break it loose using a fairly long 17mm wrench and 1/2" drive ratchet. I even bought a 550 ft/lb compact impact gun from Harbor Freight and it did absolutely nothing.
After several failed attempts at brute force, I figured out a trick that worked splendidly - only a slight cut on my forearm as collateral damage.
Basically - I used a breaker bar between the two wrenches, and levered one against the other - pushing the outside one clock-wise and the inner one (that was locked in the pulley) counter-clockwise. Here is a pic. I'm going to put together a short YouTube vid as well in case someone else gets stuck as I did.
A high powered Impact Gun is specifically mentioned as not approved for this application.
Well done for achieving a good result anyway !
For others who try this a few days of
Kroil
treatment is recommended.It can do no harm. The technique has 3 elements.
1. Apply modest amount of Kroil to the joint
2.Tap lightly with a flat-face punch & hammer to 'encourage' the Kroil to work into the cracks.
3. The most difficult of all - Patience. You need to do this several times a day for several days.
Most are too impatient ,leave a less effective product (like WD40) on for a few minutes and then whale on it
Glad you used a more elegant technique - and it worked !
BTW the spline tool is available on Amazon/Flebay for a few dollars
Thanks for pointing that out - you're correct. I tried it out of desperation/frustration and discovered that although it was advertised as high powered, it wasn't very powerful. The trick levering the breaker bar broken things loose with minimal effort, leading me to believe the impact doesn't deliver nearly the torque they advertise.
If you have a good-quality strap wrench with a rubber strap (not a chain strap, for obvious reasons*), you can also use the strap wrench to keep the pulley stationary while removing the bolt. I have found that strap wrenches work especially well on the pulleys that are grooved - like the alternator pulley.
If you have a strap wrench with a chain strap, a couple of layers of old bicycle inner tube wrapped around the pulley should be sufficient to keep the ribs protected.
BFH or powerful Impact gun probably = new alternator.The impact would damage the bearings in the alternator or the mountings ? A few squirts of Kroil.....