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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHNew Car Trick - Crank But No Start
Reported or suspected cause
same, good cranking
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
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Discussions that report identifying a cause
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Reported cause · Original poster
I Let it sit for a half hour and it was the same, good cranking, but no start.
Leading evidence: 'same, good cranking' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'same, good cranking' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace crank position sensor (20 years, 100k miles)�' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
After I changed both pump and sender with good used units, I didn’t have a problem in 8-9 years.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
After I changed both pump and sender with good used units, I didn’t have a problem in 8-9 years.
Replace crank position sensor (20 years, 100k miles)�
Suggestion or failed attempt
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Suggestion · Original poster
I�m thinking to preemptively replace the crank position sensor (20 years, 100k miles)�.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
Don't understand, your mechanic replaced the relay too (besides the pump)?
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Suggestion
If a test would show it, it would be a delivery/flow test where you measure the amount of fuel coming from the return line in 30 sec and compare it to the specs.
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Suggestion
If a test would show it, it would be a delivery/flow test where you measure the amount of fuel coming from the return line in 30 sec and compare it to the specs.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
9 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261027T173940Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
The car learned a new trick yesterday.
Drive to work, only thing that stuck out was a rough idle for a few seconds at a red light, but it immediately cleared up. (It was raining also)
after the car sat for 7 hours, went to drive home after work, it started for a second or two, then died.
Cranked nice and fast, but would not start.
The tachometer would move up to the first mark when I turned the car to �on�, and went up one more mark (I consider it the first above zero) while it was cranking. It didn�t bounce at all, is it supposed to actually bounce, or is it being steady a sign of a good or bad crank position sensor?
I Let it sit for a half hour and it was the same, good cranking, but no start.
i didnt smell any gas out the tailpipe, its got half a tank, and no pressure or vacuum when I opened the gas cap.
next going to jumper the fuel pump relay, then tow to a shop.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
-Eric
04 Base 996 (98k miles driven daily)
Most times when it cranks but does not start it is the CPS - crank position sensor. I can't really tell what you are saying about the tach needle. Does it bounce or no bounce? No bounce is pointing again to the CPS.
No bounce, when it�s cranking the needle moves up and is steady at the 200 RPM tick mark�.. crank for 10 seconds, and it is dead steady there, stop cranking and it drops down�..
So, it should literally bounce as the starter cranks?
-Eric
Be aware that if the fuel filter is clogged, the pump will go out again. I found this out the hard way after swapping in 2 or 3 new pumps from the dealer in my old ‘04 Boxster. For some reason Porsche put the filter inside the sensing unit in the 2002+ models.
After I changed both pump and sender with good used units, I didn’t have a problem in 8-9 years.
Ugh, I�m gonna have nightmares! Do you know if the clogging can be caught with a pressure test?
The mechanic was concerned the failing pump could overheat the relay, so replaced it.
I�m thinking to preemptively replace the crank position sensor (20 years, 100k miles)�.
thanks for the heads up.
-Eric
Pressure test won't show this. If a test would show it, it would be a delivery/flow test where you measure the amount of fuel coming from the return line in 30 sec and compare it to the specs.
Don't understand, your mechanic replaced the relay too (besides the pump)? Curious how he reasons that one...
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