Track tires for dedicated 18" 997 Carrera Classic Wheels

So I've got the track bug -- while I don't think I'll be winning any races (or entering any), nor modding the car in any way (besides the UAOS), I do happen to have a set of 18" 997 Carrera Classic Wheels sitting in the garage unsued. They are the five-spoke wheels and should be a great set for the track. I have solid turbo twists on currently, and I don't want to mar them. They have Pilot Sport 4S in the OEM sizing. But for track tires I can go wider and I can go sticker/less tread. Ideally I want something that gives great performance but I don't have to change every session. I also live in SoCal, so the tracks around here are easily over 100F in the summers, and I know not all tires like high heat --- though, we're going into winter so it will be cooler. Are there any first hand suggestions I can weigh against what I've got started in options so far? And any widths/ratios I should stay away from as over kill? Thanks!

Have you already taken (further) measures to ensure uninterrupted oil supply when out on the track? If not, then that would be my first step before getting track tyres. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...stability.html

Go to APEXs page on tire sizes and wheels. You will see a list of tires that fit different wheel sizes and are viable for the track. https://apexwheels.com/fitment-guide...-fitment-guide

Go into this realizing that you are changing the risk of catastrophic engine failure from extremely improbable (10^-6 or so) to unlikely (10^-4 ish). One in a million to one in a thousand or thereabouts.

Quotes source post: 19689012

You only live once. Winning a track day, car comes home only a little worse off.

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I can't tell what size the wheels and tires are on the example photos that they have. The old website told you what they were but they have left that out now. I don't know why. Pretty pictures though.

Quotes source post: 19689156

Agreed, it used to be easier. If you toggle down the website page you will see the info on wheel sizes, tire sizes, etc which is very handy.

I've got an old set that needs to be refinished of those wheels and luv them. Using 10mm spacers on front. Got an old set of Pirelli P Zero Trofeo R TW 60, on them, the stickiest tire I've ever used. 996.1 is stuck to the road like a magnet on a steel road. perfect for track use. Ya, they're old tires, noisy, and not for any wet use at all, but grip/turn in/traction in the dry,,, better than anything I've ever used, wow...!!! A set of these and your aggressive cornering on track, will surely get your m96 oil pressure challenged engine's attention, fast...

For a non slick 200tw tire i like the Nanking crs, it can handle moderate wet driving to and from the track. For similar performance and old school tire tech the nitto nt-01 is geat at 100tw but its no good in any wet condition. For an even better tire at 60tw is the hossier r7 and is dot rated but u wouldnt drive to the track on them.

Fwiw, for tires that will fit your wheels, consider the following depending on what your objective. 1.Michellin Sport Cup 2 (240TW) if you want a street tire that you can track. 2. For a 200W track tire that you can also street, Bridgestone RE71RS or Nankang CRS. I am impressed with the RE71RS on both the track and street. Sticky as hell. Haven't run the CRS yet. 3. For sure Hoosier R7s all the way if you are tracking it in dry weather. This is where 2 sets of wheels come in handy and if it rains you throw on the Sport Cup 2s or RE71RS. Remember, the more grip you get, the more you better solve for oil pressure/starvation.

Quotes source post: 19689150

I'm not saying don't do it, for sure I think it's a good idea. Just suggesting starting a slush fund just in case.

Some combination of the following will do you well. Front: 225/40/18, 235/40/18 Rear: 265/35/18, 285/35/18, or 275 For the tires to use, how long do you want them to last? How much do you want to spend? One tier PS4S, Continental extreme contact sport or Potenza sport. Solid tires for a track day or road driving. Next tier 200 tw: Conti extreme contact pro, Potenza Race, Pilot Sport Cup, Hoosier has a new offering and others that were mentioned. A durable one is a Hankook RS4. There are plenty of write ups on the offerings in this class. federal RSRR if you want to save cash 300 and 300ish TW: tires that should give enough grip and last. kenda vedza, accelera 651 sport (plus), Firestone Indy 500 I have a bias of get by with what you need and learn to drive. There's plenty of articles out there on what some of the fastest tires are.

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If you do NOT have adjustable coilovers and sway bars, and are running wheel sizes of 8x18 (F) and 10x18 (R), I would stick with factory sizes of 225x40x18 in the front and 285x30x18 in the rear. Deviating from those sizes with a non-adjustable suspension can create some challenging characteristics for a novice. The easiest thing you can do to improve high performance handling on a non-adjustable suspension is to get a great set of tires, with sticky rubber, in the right sizes, with stiff sidewalls. See my list of tires a few posts above.

On the contrary, I think as long as you're staying pretty close to those OE sizes you're going to be okay. Try to keep the sidewall heights close to oem and the ratio between the heights close as well. Given the c2 also came with 17s and I don't believe a different suspension supported those wheel sizes, there is some room for differences. I would think that how the suspension moves and being able to get your alignment right, there is room for very similar tire sizes. There are also variances between tire manufactures true sizes, heights will change some as they wear, and different sidewall characteristics are going have different behaviors in the corner, and I think the suspension can deal with that. +/- 5-8% of oem spec of width and sidewall height and a fairly grippy compound and OP should be okay. If there's something I'm missing in the subtleties I'm happy to learn.

I'm with GC996 on this, stay with factory dimensions. A taller side wall does have its benefits but driving dynamically on a track you'll end up with rubbing on the inside of the wheel well cladding. I had such with 285/35R18 that the previous owner had installed. The 17" and 18" tyres have such dimensions that the overall diameter of the tyres change as little as possible when going from one wheel diameter to another. This way ride height, rake, roll centers change as little as possible. Having said that, c_mims is correct that a little leeway is there but it's already used to find a suspension kinematic setup that works with both 17" and 18" tyres while having ride heights that range between US base spec all the way down to X74 RoW sports suspension spec. Going 0.05 bigger in side wall ratio or tyre width as the smallest possible change, gets you immediately in 997 tyre spec. Whilst the 997 is very close to 996 the increase in track width (by changing the wheel inset) helped to get the roll centers front and rear back to where they were n the 996 without having to change control arm lengths and/or pickup points on the side members or front subframe. Whole can of worms opened as soon as you start changing tyre sizes.

For sure. You have alot of flexibility with tire sizes. But with different tire sizes comes different characteristics. Adjustable suspensions provide more ways to dial in the characteristics. Non-adjustable suspensions therefore limit your flexibility. So you have to be more careful as to tire sizes, wheel sizes and compounds. Driving your 996 on the track is very different than driving it on the street. On the street, most folks typically want a softer ride from their tires to absorb the bumps. Crisp turn in, stiff sidewalls, and feeling every nook and cranny with your butt and hands isn't what folks are typically looking for on the street. Nor are they as aware of oversteer and understeer and how front and rear tires sizes in relation to wheel sizes play into the equation. The reason is because they aren't pushing the limits amd therefore the characteristics on the street. On the track, you dont want a softer ride. Instead you want a stiffer tire with less flex from stiffer sidewalls so you can feel every nook and cranny in your hands and butt. You also want the proper tire sizes to help dial in understeer and oversteer. If you don't have an adjustable suspension, this becomes an extremely important variable. Too big of a front tire in relation to rear tires can create oversteer and unstable conditions at higher speeds. Too small of a front tire in relation to rear can create understeer. This spring I decided to get a set of Michelin AS4s to put on an extra set of Carrera 2 wheels I had to compliment the Bridgestone RE71RS tires I had on the other set. The goal was to be able to drive my car in lousy weather and colder weather with some snow if i wanted. But we all know that rear tire sizes with all season tires are 35s, which means we have to manage the diameters or you have a boatload of rake. My All Season tire choices for the 8x18 and 10x18 wheels were either to run 225x40x18 with 275x35x18, or 235x40x18 with 285x35x18. Both options provided about 0.5 in rake. 265x35x18 was to narrow to use with 225x40x18 for my suspension set up with not enough rubber width in the rear. Sure I could have used them, but then I would have had to adjust my suspension and sway bar setting every time I switched between the Michelin All Season 4s and the RE71RS. So I decided on 235x40x18 with 285x35x18 for a comfy ride. Holy cow, what a soft amd comfortable ride for the street. I can actually drive the car and drink coffee. It's alot of flexible rubber with alot of diameter. Steering wheel and butt inputs are muted. OK for the street, nkt for the track. In addition, the 235s up front with the 285s rear with the increased diameters have created some interesting floating charactetistics as well as understeer to oversteer characteristics. I can handle it, but it's not the most desirable set of characteristics when driving fast. I had to bring my tire pressures down to 32/33 front and 34/35 rear to negate the characteristics. I finally settled on these tire pressures after a long drive from Chicago to Phila this April and plenty of stops adjusting tire pressures to get it right. The point to this is tire sizes have a huge influence on driving characteristics. For maximum performance and safety on the track, make sure you run the right tires, in the right sizes that work with your suspension set up. For the track, with a non-adjustable suspension, on 8 and 10 18 inch wheels, I would stick with 225x40 and 285x30. For sure, as it pertains to street driving, you got a boatload of flexibility in sizes depending on the characteristics you want. And for sure, with an adjustable suspension, you have more flexibility with wheel amd tire sizes on the track because you have more tools to dial it in.

OP - Seems the sum of the topic responses is: It depends. As long as your oil pressure is stable at higher ambient and/or internal temps you can go with a good 200 TW and not jump engine health risk level up too much. Things also depend on what your starting setup parameters are. Don�t veer too far from normal sidewall dimensions to avoid front/rear rake issues and component rub. Brake bite needs to match tire grip. Track pads for track sessions. Rake number will help you know if you can go with a taller sidewall than a 285/30. I used Potenza Sport 225/40 front and 275/35 in the back and my rake came out perfect. The resulting front end compliance/balance notably improved. The Potenza Sports were also impressive in the wet. Those are the only 200�s I�ve run on a 996, so my experience with other comparable tires is nil. If you run near-stock alignment (mine is street GT3), I doubt you�d optimize �sticky� tire grip, but others can speak to that.

Your car looks so good in that action shot, especially with the compressed front end on those Carrera 2s.

Quotes source post: 19692881

I gotta agree. While I prefer 225x40x18 and 285x30x18 on 8s and 10s for the track, the combo of 225x40x18 and 275x35x18 look to be a good combo as well. 235x40x18 and 285x35x18 on 8s and 10s are too soft for aggressive driving. But great for a soft cushy ride on the street. Good conversation.

Quotes source post: 19693316

Thank you! I like seeing how flat the car is with a basically standard sport suspension. This is threshold trailbraking from 70-30 mph with a friend�s GT4 up my tail pipe. Gotta love the 996!

I agree with you both to keep the height as close to oem as possible or to keep it there. The scenario I was thinking of was say you found a good deal some tires with maybe a 235 front or 275 rear with a good price it could be worth it to afford more seat time or an instructor as it sounds like OP is just getting started on the track. Get out there for your first season affordably instead of buying the most grippy tires, get handle on the basics, and then stress the finer details and tires from there.

Quotes source post: 19694886

I would not consider running 235s front on 8s with 275s or 285s rear on 10s. Stick with 225s in the front for that combo. 235s on 8s have to much under supported rubber up front and too little rubber on the rear with 275s and 285s on 10s. You will create a flabby unresponsive steering feel as well as understeer to oversteer characteristics. You would need to be a very experienced driver. No need to sub-optimize your equipment and handling if you dont have to.

Quotes source post: 19694886

If you found a deal, then yeah, stick them on and drive it. Track use burns up tires anyways, you can always get a more optimal setup next time around. 235 on an 8 starts to feel a little gummy but... so what lol. Time and instruction >>>>> tires.

Thanks for all the feedback, I think sticking with stock sizing at first will be the way to go, especially as I want to use the car off track with different tires and not have a noticeable changing in driving style. My goal with the spare rims was not to try and step up to extreme tires, just to have the flexibility to have a slightly different set for the track. Realistically there probably won't be that much difference for me between the street and track tires. The RE71RS seems to get a lot of good feedback. My goal for the track is to just get out the itch to drive too fast other places. I'm hoping I can have fun, and not beat the car up too bad. Though... once competitive, always competitive...

Yeah keep it simple and sharp with OEM sizes. Nothing to be gained with other sizes than potentially cost. I haven't tried the different sizes myself. If you're just getting started, something that will last you longer like a Hankook RS4 or Continental extreme contact sport 02. Put the money saved toward an instructor like GC996 suggested. RE71rs will not give you any more value until you're hunting for lap times. Make sure your brake fluid is sufficient if you haven't already, get out and enjoy!

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Gotta love RL...

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I have however done this with a few other cars

FWIW my preferred race/track shop in Atlanta recommends a 295 width in the rear for a 996.2 with 18's - which I haven't seen mentioned in this thread.

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For sure. It's a logical progression. I would still recommend 285s rears on 10s and 225 fronts on 8s if the 996 owner doesn't have adjustable coilovers and sway bars to facilitate rotation from setting adjustments. But to your point, I have a Demonspeed GT3 front lip that has been collecting dust in my basement. It's about time I put it on the car. To counter balance the potential extra front bite I may get, I will be running 295s in the rear with 225s in the front next year on a new set of RE71RSs. But I have 4 more heat cycles left on my current set of 225/285s that I gotta wear down first.

Quotes source post: 19710263

I'd like to hear how those feel

I think i'm going to go with the RE71RS, they seem a solid bet overall. I need new tires (and an alignment) edges are badly worn on one side from the track day. (and costco has them for $90 off ) Plan is to continue instruction and a have some spare wheels/tires as i also just like my twists and don't want to mess them up. Need new pads too...

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71RS will heat cycle into bricks before you wear them out if you don't drive them hard enough. Heavily, heavily do not recommend until you are chasing lap times.

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How do I determine the level of "hard enough"? My current Pilot sport 4s have worn significantly on the outer (left) side from my one and only day at Big Willow. Yes alignment needed, but pretty sure it was also from carrying a lot of speed. I'm not chasing lap times but I did compare my times to my friend's C7 times (he is stupid fast), and considering the difference between a C7 GS and a 996, I don't think I was puttering around the track. But hard-enough is somewhat subjective, so if not the RE71RS, then what? I like my twists so don't want them to get pitted and I like the idea of having a spare set of tires that are just for track use so I don't have to keep swapping tires. If I have to get the same tires on two sets of wheels then so be it EDIT: and in case the question gets asked, and to make it more objective, my best lap was 1:46.7 and his is 1:28. But as you can see with the data overlaid (I borrowed his lap timer with his old data on it), a C7 can just get a LOT more speed everywhere... A 1:47 would put me in the top 190 lap times according to this: https://fastestlaps.com/tracks/willow-springs - so I'm trying to figure what "hard enough" is, and considering I had never been on a track before (I did "know" the track) that does seem pretty fast.

Ben, for your application in S. Cal to canyon carve and track days, you should not have any problems with the RE71RS unless you get meaningful rain on the road. Guys like me in Chicago with sub zero weather in the winter and where the rubber dries out have more to worry about with lifespan of 200w tires. As I mentioned earlier in the thread, the RE71RS is a track tire that you can use on the street. Sport Cup 2s are street tires you can use on the track. Sport Cup 2s will be better in the rain amd will last longer than the RE71RS. The RE71RS will give you better grip but will not last as long because they are very soft and sticky rubber But to Circuits point. I wouldn't run the tire past 2-3 years in S. Cal. Doubt they will even last that long with as much canyon carving as you do. But no question, you will certainly feel the extra grip from the first minute you start driving. You know the routine, let's get your oil pressure and tick figured out so you can run the tires safely. Let's start cheap on the oil pressure and tick. (1) Clean your engine from the inside. Techron in the fuel at the next fuel up to clean up the engine. May help with cleaning up the carbon and reduce the tick. (2) Higher weight oil with more Moly. If you want a 10w60 oil, take a look at Miller Nano. Millers is great oil and the equivalent of Driven in quality. It's what Hartech uses in their engines in the UK. For sure, the guys may have some other suggestions. (3) Oil Test. Do a Speednostix oil test to see what is happening inside your engine, you can then ask Lake Speed directly what oil he would suggest. Either way, you need more moly. MOBIL 1 has very little. Here is the link to the US distributor of Millers Nano to take a look. https://performanceracingoils.com/mi...nt-racing-oil/

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Ok, yes let's be objective here... 1:47 is like a stock NB Miata time at Big Willow, so doing it in a 911 with PS4S really isn't carrying a lot of speed. If I'm not mistaken, the new 50th anniversary Carrera wears the same tires so you can see what its corner speeds look like. Ignore lap times, we just want to look at apex minimum speeds: A few mph down from your Corvette friend, which makes sense to me with road car tires and factory alignment settings. But 8-10mph faster than your 996 across the board - so that gap is the remaining amount you have to push, assuming again that the 992 is on the same tires. Could you go faster than this by using stickier tires? Yes, but look at the lateral G data from picking up 8-10mph more corner speed: around Big Willow, pushing hard means hitting 1.2-1.3G on street tires. @Porschetech3 surely has something to say about this if you don't have a much more capable scavenger/AOS and sump pickup already installed. Snap a pic of your tire treads and we can look at it. If you're not melting Michelins, you're not pushing hard enough to need anything stickier, and that's where it's not worth it to heat cycle a short-wearing 200tw vs just warming up a 300tw summer tire. I put V601's on my car for example, it already hits enough lateral G's to make the M96 cough up oil. 71RS would be a death sentence if you pushed the tire to what it can really do (probably >1.5G at Big Willow thanks to the banking). SoCal is hot enough to dry out 200tw tires just by driving around on them. They always feel fantastic at first, but by the 1yr mark I will notice that the grip has dropped off even if there's plenty of tread remaining. At which point, the tire is definitely no good in the rain, and mediocre in the dry, more so than a decent 300tw. I bought 3 sets of tires (RE760S, PSS, RE11) in 2 years from cycling them out doing exactly what you're hoping to do - canyons and track days. The RE11's actually got so hard I crashed, FWIW. Since then I always keep track tires off the street, just use normal 300tw stuff in the canyons and back off the pace. If you're not out for lap time supremacy, I would take the same approach to the track anyways. Less grip = less load = less wear and tear.

Quotes source posts: 19722804, 19722804, 19722804, 19722804, 19722804

Yah, cause that 992 has 140 more HP than me And good to know I'm at least Miata worthy This is likely the tire they used on that comparison (front is a P-Zero 245/35 R20 and I think Read is 305/30 ZR 20 ) https://www.motortrend.com/uploads/s...ary-wheels.jpg From: https://www.motortrend.com/reviews/2...on-first-test/ UAOS was ordered on Monday and will be here soon. Left rear pic at end (in pic I had just rotated it to right). Front Left had same outer wear. Yes will get an alignment too. What I bolded is the whole point I was trying to accomplish: to avoid using track tires off the street (though I still may occasionally). So does the above still apply? I ordered the tires on Monday too, though I can easily cancel the order. I'm just so confused now. All I want is a set of tires I can use on my spare wheels for the track and then a set of PS4s (almost definitely) that I will use on the street (and maybe run the spare wheels in the winter when the gravel kills the rims). If this is a BAD idea, or if I'm never going to use the RE71RS properly, and it's going to be useless in a year with only a few track days on it, then I need to change gears again. I just don't know what I should be doing... I just want to join my friend at track days and have fun. I like my car. But it's a cab, 100k miles, it has stock B4 shocks.... and so I'm just trying to be realistic. Maybe I'll buy another coupe and use that for track and let it burn, but till then, I just want to go have fun. Tire:

Quotes source post: 19722804

I like the way circuit.heart approaches this. It's easy to go overboard. It always feels good to have the best compounds for your money, but it's rarely needed. There's what makes sense to us, but this is also about what you want and will feel good about. You're on your journey and will find out what's right for you.

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That's certainly excessive wear on that side. Yeah could use some camber which I'm sure you know, but otherwise the tires held up fine. Any idea on what your tire pressures were?

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yeh and if the answer is, buy PS4s for both track wheels and street then so be it. Or maybe this was all a mistake and I don't do any of the two wheel thing, and just use "WINTER" wheels with PS4s's and those go on track and street and the gravel from Angeles Crest in winter won't mar my twists either. And in summer I'll regroup back to Twists.. I'm so turned around now. Pressures were a tad too high. Last round I ended at 42 R 38 F (hot). They make a lot of noise at that level. Since then I'm at 31R 29F (cold) which hits at 36F 39R (hot) at end of canyon. So I'll have to adjust on the track for sure.

Quotes source post: 19722896

That looks like it was never warmed up at all. Warm rubber is supposed to look like this. You can see that the strings (marbles) get larger towards the inside of the car, so yes, this car has too much camber and needs to dial it out to even out the tire temps. No marbles = no heat = no point discussing tires. My two cents, pick up front camber plates or extended coffin arms so you can knock the front camber setting to -3 or further. Max it out and zero out the front toe so you can make full use of the front tire without incurring excess wear, and then see how the wear pattern continues to develop. The extra camber should make corner entries feel more confident so you should start getting some more heat into the Michelins. To be frank, until then you don't need new/extra tires whatsoever.

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Well I'm outta things to say then. It was 97F out, in the desert. In the middle of the day. My car's engine sure was hot. I was sweaty as hell. When I let air out of the tires because they were even higher PSI it was hot as hell. But if you're saying they weren't even warm, then I have no business being on a track to begin in. And def no business buying better tires.

Don't overthink it. Buy some tires. Drive car on track. Enjoy. If you don't like the tires, get different ones.

Quotes source post: 19723595

This ^^^^^^

Yeah, it's no big deal, just make sure whatever tires you run, have strong sidewalls. When I started out I ran PS2s for years, then Sport Cups, then Toyo Proxies, then Hoosiers and now RE71Rs. As described by Circuit, tires last a long time when you are starting out. But as you get faster they will wear faster. Importantly, as you move from street to track tires, they get more expensive per tire as well as are softer rubber so they burn faster. It got to the point that I was burning thru a set of hoosiers in 8 heat cycles (2 track days) on a 2 mile long track. Worth every penny because they were good for shaving off 2 seconds a lap on a 2 mile track over Proxies, which were good for 1 second over Sport Cups, which were good for 2 seconds over PSS2S. Suffice to say, I never had a set of tires on my wheels for an entire season, let alone 2 seasons. You know the old phrase, speed cost money, how fast do you want to go? Nothing wrong with starting out with PS4s. Your next step may be Sport Cup 2s, then RE71RS, and then who knows, maybe Hoosiers. But it will take you years to develop the skills to get the most out of any tire. The PRF is right. You can always get something different once you wear out the current ones. I wouldnt loose any sleep over it.

Quotes source post: 19723224

I'm definitely not saying don't go to the track - I'm just saying, don't stress about tires till you truly have a reason to need them. So, get the most out of this current set you have (I still suggest front camber so you can drop the tire pressures), burn 'em up, and we can discuss a more durable option so you're not doing what @GC996 and I do, which is waste a set of stickies every two days.

Go to the track, go to the track, go to the track. With your current setup. You'll probably get hugely faster each time. You don't know what you don't know. Here I am saying this and I've never been on a track. But I have been to one of the not terribly cheesy experience centers and been on a pretty crazy rally and will say that each time I've learned a lot more about how to drive fast. The biggest part of my learning was actually talking with the group about how the drives went after the drives. Then the next drive I could try out some of the discussion points.

So i bought another car. A coupe. Came with Conti ExtremeContact Sport - 225/40 18 and 285/30 18 mounted on Gemalla 9x18 and 11x18 rims. I assume using these tires for now, and retuning the Bridgestones would be the best option price wise? 2021/2022 dates, almost no wear. Sorry bit of cross post here: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ck-intent.html I don't know how much the wider rears will affect me.

i just reread this whole thread, and it seems the general recommendation is to stick with stock sizing and go 225x40 18 front and 285x30 18 rear. Somehow originally i managed to just read the word "stock" and missed the 285x40 portion of it, and ordered 265x35 in rear, which was "stock" on my car. So I think i'm going to return my RE 71RS purchase. I'm going to go to Buttonwillow with the cab, and just going to take it easy. I don't know if my current wear on the sides of the PS4s above is still okay for a last track day, or if i should mount the conti tires on the Classic wheels are use those for now. Going in mental circles with tires.. now that i have the coupe as well, will be putting work into making that track ready

Congrats on the 996 Coupe! Here is a suggestion to make it safe and easy for you You now have 2 sets of 8x18 and 10x18 carerra wheels for your cab and a set of 9x18 and 11x18 wheels on your new coupe. I would highly suggest you run the proper size tires on both of your 8x18 and 10x18 carerra wheels which is 225x40x18 and 285x30x18. To make it easy for you, stick with the PS4S for now. Don't mess with 265x35x18s on the rear with 10x18s unless you are running all season tires. You are not. I would take the 9x18 and 11x18 wheels off your new coupe and put them in the corner of the garage and save for a couple of years after you become a more advanced driver. The tire sizes are completely wrong for the wheel sizes and you are just asking for trouble as a novice driver.

Quotes source post: 19742353

Yes i think that's the best plan. Move the Conti 285s over to the Carrerra Classic rims and use those tires on track until figure out next things. Keep or sell the Gembella rims. My current PS4s are actually 265/40 in rear. That is what's stock, and why I bought "stock" again, but totally over looked the size up to 285. I don't think Costco will mount larger width tires (they took some convincing to mount the non "N" spec PS4s to begin with), so will have to keep that it in mind for the future purchase.

Yeah, just make sure when you move the Contis over that they are in very good condition and check the date. They were very stretched.

Quotes source post: 19742771

Dates are 2021 Fronts and 2022 Rears. And yes, I have thought about what over stretching and sitting for a couple years means to the sidewalls. Tires were install 7/2022 and have 200 miles on them ...... yeh.... sitting a bit. I will ask the local tire shop what they think about the sidewalls, I have no idea or any way to know.