18 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHCross threaded tire bolt
Leading reported evidence
Use heli-coil
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
This summer I used a heli-coil for the first time on my Mercury 150hp outboard engine with great results.
Leading evidence: 'Use heli-coil' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'only thing holding his wheel' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace hub' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I'm a safety first kind of guy as well, but I've used Time Serts in some high pressure systems with good results.
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Suspected cause
If it was the only thing holding his wheel on I'd be more likely to replace the hub.
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Suggestion
If it was the only thing holding his wheel on I'd be more likely to replace the hub.
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Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
18 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
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Generation: 20261026T113718Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
What ^ said. A good shop should fix you up. Alternatively, remove wheel, caliper, brake disc, to get to axle/hub assembly. If you are handy and the treads are not too damaged, you might be able to clean up the threads with a tap, or you will have to drill and helicoil. Or, remove and replace wheel hub. Torque specs on wheel hub are very important. Don't know what they are for the rear wheel hubs, but they are huge.
This summer I used a heli-coil for the first time on my Mercury 150hp outboard engine with great results. You can view videos on you tube to see the steps involved, they helped me.
No. While the tap recuts the threads material is removed, material that was moved out of place by the cross-threading.
The thread though now once again has the proper shape the thread is weak and will likely not hold. A good failure is when it strips right out. A bad one is when the fastener torques up just fine but under usage loosens.
The right solution is to install a threaded insert if this type of repair is allowable on a wheel hub threaded hole for a lug bolt.
If not then the hub needs to be replaced.
Also, I'd toss all of the old lug bolts and renew every one in case one (or more) has some thread damage that could result in cross-threading when used in the new hub.
I'd buy a new hub before I would trust a helicoil or threaded insert with something as important as holding the wheel on.
If the hole was only partially boogered (i.e. one noticed the bolt was cross-threaded and stopped attempting to tighten it), I'd still go the route of chasing the damaged threads. If the lug bolt was driven all the way in using an impact wrench, so the majority of the threads are damaged, I'd buy a new hub.
Since the stud/lug conversion still requires that the hub has good threads, I don't think this is a workable solution to the poster's issue...
How far did you drive the bolt in before realizing it wasn't straight? A bolt needs 1.5 times the its diameter to achieve full clamping strength. If you have that much left, a thread chaser will be just fine.
I'm a safety first kind of guy as well, but I've used Time Serts in some high pressure systems with good results. If it was the only thing holding his wheel on I'd be more likely to replace the hub. It's sharing the load with 4 other bolts and is only torqued to 96 ft-lbs. I think a threaded insertion would be fine. Of course it's his car and his life, so he should make the call.
[QUOTE=5CHN3LL;10791842]I'd buy a new hub before I would trust a helicoil or threaded insert with something as important as holding the wheel on.
If the hole was only partially boogered (i.e. one noticed the bolt was cross-threaded and stopped attempting to tighten it), I'd still go the route of chasing the damaged threads. If the lug bolt was driven all the way in using an impact wrench, so the majority of the threads are damaged, I'd buy a new hub.
Since the stud/lug conversion still requires that the hub has good threads, I don't think this is a workable solution to the poster's issue...[/QU
OTE]
Wheel studs press in from the inside, no threads needed or used to hold them in.
Did you use the alum guide pin with the threaded end for mounting the wheel? I do and one time the soft alum left shavings in the threaded hole for the lug bolt.....thought I cross thread the lug bolt. I realized what happened and got a small almost Dentist type pick and scarped the alum shavings out. Lug went in like butta.
Ah, I like those better. Many of the stud conversions I've seen look like exhaust manifold studs - they're threaded on both ends, and you're supposed to threadlock the hub end in place. Having backed out countless manifold studs (and one 996 engine stud), I'd definitely go the pressed-stud route if I was going to ditch the lug bolts.
Just noting for others, this exact thing happened. The wheel hanger somehow got fused in the lug nut hole, and I could do nothing to get it out. PB Blaster and WD40, plus tiny back and forth motions using only hand strength and after two days finally got it free. When I looked at the wheel hanger threads they the first two were totally gone. I could no longer get the lug nut back in fully either.
I used a pair of hooked pointed tweezers and painstakingly got the metal from the hanger out of the inner threads. Then using the lug nut and an impact driver kept slowly working it (it would not fully screw in). It took a long time to get it all out, but luckiy the hub metal is pretty darn hard and all the lugs go in and out again with ease. I was sweating there for a bit, thought I had cross threaded the hub lug hole!
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