Camshaft position sensor location

Help, we can't find the camshaft position sensor for bank 1. 2001 Porsche 996 3.4l. Please help . We just found about that the engine code is for a 99 3.4l. So I'm guessing it's had a engine swapped, but please help with the location of the camshaft sensor bank 1

Pelican have a diy on this subject also , Search works well! https://rennlist.com/forums/997-turb...-location.html

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Thats the 997 turbo not the 996.

There's one on the drivers side of the motor (bank 1) near the flywheel where the motor mounts to the transmission. I thought this is the crankshaft position sensor though??? Obviously the crankshaft and the camshafts are all connected/timed to each other via chains so perhaps the names is not all important...

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They don't always stay timed together, thus the need for individual sensors. On a 2001 engine like this it is the near side black connector on top of the head:

That's A good picture, but we still can't put our hands on it, I'm not sure if we're in some type of twilight Zone, or in some kind of fifteen dimension . But can some please tell me how to change this, what's the proper steps, I just don't know what's up

I'm feeling and seeing a lot of wires in that location, I'm feeling some type of tube going into the engine, I'm feeling something with clips like a fuel injection piece, I see the green plug on my engine, then when I reach for that sensor, all there is , is a tube with rubber going into engine, I see some fuel injection stuff, I feel wires, I do not feel anything close to what that part looks like, I've even had help, with no luck, we have a 4wd car here, same as mine, we can see that sensor, in plane view and can touch it on the Carrera 4 but my c2 , no way no how, someone lend us a hand here please, what's the procedure to changing this cam shaft position sensor on a 3.4 C2 996 3.4. With a 1999 reman Porsche engine it seems? HELP

Bank 1 is tough. See this photo and let me know if you dont see it. Not what the green arrow is pointing to. It's the black plug right next to the cut AOS drain tube.

Looks like a bear to replace with all the junk getting in the way.

AHS it is a bear, I see it tucked away , I feel it I'm sure, I think. I just took pictures of engine, can anyone confirm what year engine this is, my car is 01 996 Engine numbers, Sorry about the mess, Once I get this car running properly, I'll get it spotless!!

How in the world I'll get that out is beyond me! I need help!!

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I've been "in there" recently and have the healing scars to prove it. Suggest you combine this with an AOS job. It is so tight in there ,that was the only way I could see to do it.If it makes you feel better about all the work add a camshaft timing check(greenplugs) to the to-do list. Others may have smarter suggestions. You might give some details of why you think it needs changing.They are not usually troublesome compared to some other sensors.I would hate to read that you did all this work and it was not effective. If you are getting a cam timing code, post it and we'll help you Good luck

My code is P0343. Camshaft position sensor A, circuit high input B1. Misfire cyl 1,2,3

My car has a blinking cel light, right from start up, it has no power , feels like it's running on just a few pistons. It bogs, upon full throttle it's just limping and surging around. It will not pull at all, I rode in a healthy 996 and it's night and day different between the two identical cars

I'm trying Ole girl, I've brought you a long ways now your fighting me.

It's really heartbreaking at the moment, I've thrown all the cash possibly for me to get this car restored, I have the sensor coming, I have some nice engine mounts to tuck my exhaust back up from worn mounts, I've done a ton of work to this Car. I've restored her back to original, but , now the engine is fighting me, I know these cars are very reliable and if taking care of they run great. Now I've jumped into this restoring full swing, I'm just trying to get these last few things button up. The aos job , I'll do that If I can, I'm just trying to keep her out the hands of a dealership right now. So far, I've not had her at the dealer for anything other than the code, cel code, then had a buddy back that code up with his scanner, so the code is showing up on 2 different obd

I have to get some rest now, I've been under this care hoping for a miracle that I can remove this sensor. find this sensor, but I can't feel or see anything. I've been under the car now for 6 hours straight, I have not accomplished anything but to bloody myself up pretty good. So I'm going to wash the oil and dirt of these tired s hands one more time and I'm going to bed, If anyone that's a Porsche 996 guy please help, I'm in Beaufort South Carolina and Im on a Marine Corpse base begging for help!!!

P0343 is most likely a wire/connector issue and not the sensor itself. The factory manual says some wire is shorted to the +12v. However, I saw one case with the sensor disconnected that also caused this code. I would shift my focus to the wiring.

https://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/18479-p0343-code/ http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/57279-code-p0343.html

I've just got permission from a salvage yard to bring her up and I'm more than welcome to set fire to her, so that's what I'm going to do. Thanks all

Can't get to the wiring either, she is done, I've waisted my time and money for to long, we will see how well she likes me now with a torch in my hand , lol. This car want get the best of this Marine, so I'll burn her down!! Salvage Guy sound very excited when I told him I was bringing a keltec ksg and 500 rds of 223 also

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your first mistake was throwing parts at the problem without properly diagnosing it. Given the prices of parts on these things, it'll drive you crazy very quickly. Though they're fairly easy to work on physically, they are also fairly complex from an engineering standpoint (y'know, the whole German thing...). What I'm trying to say is that it's often something very simple shrouded in codes and "parts"... Don't burn it yet 😉

I've gave the car a chance to work with me, plus there is no one here worth anything to work or fix this car, the dealer, there just crooks, called them, they said 3800 then that's possible it want work afterwards

I have not thrown parts at anything, I've only brought the car around from being a total piece of aftermarket crap, the paint has been redone, the broken convertible has been fixed, all the interior has been replaced, I've not thrown any parts at this that was not broken

Sorry for your loss. These cars are complicated and sometimes obscure mechanisms. The learning curve is humbling & steep even for those of us who were (mistakenly ?) considered competent mechanics/engineers. Even with the help of this Forum ,there can be times you need a competent ,honest Indie. This case is a good example. Without an Indie's dispassionate experience, at least start with list of potential causes for a a fault code.Give a list of all related work done and your competence level. even without all that you got the answer anyway - Post 18 is the probable cause.Post 19 gave you links and a hint of how to find more. Problems like this can take hours of such research. You could have found the answer by Searching by the Fault Code here or RennTech. I recently did this because I failed to reattach the Cam Sensor connector when working in that area. It is very tight in that tiny space and difficult to illuminate.But it is doable. My fix was Zero cost in $ but huge cost in self humiliation. To help you dispose of your car, why not advertise it here on Rennlist ?

It's not fighting you, but there are some damn difficult jobs on our cars. Your engine is M96/01 confirmed. Misfires on Bank 1, left side of engine, cylinders 1,2,3, as standing at the rear bumper looking into the engine bay. The hall sender/camshaft position sensor is Part #34 here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=103-00 located on the top rear of the Bank 1 Cylinder Head. You will probably have to follow the same procedure for AOS replacement to get to it. A real PITA but doable with engine in car, dropped to the lowest level sitting on the cross-member. Just realized I'm late to the game! Started reading on page 1 and only got through that. So sorry for the repeat information! However, heres hoping for success for your project

Cars gone, it's a big pile of molting aluminum now

In addition to posts 18,19,25,26, you also need to walk away and calm down. These things can be very frustrating and being mad at while trying to work on it does no good. Since you are going to change the motor mounts anyway, go ahead and remove them, and let the engine rest on the cross member, that will give you about 2 more inches of clearance in that area. Remove the AOS, the procedure is well documented, find it. Then check the wiring, and replace the sender if required. Install new AOS. Enjoy your car.

Cars gone, pile of melted metal and aluminum now

I think Hotrodaxle is a troll... I find it difficult to believe he bought this car, did all this work on it and then had it junked because he couldn't figure out a fault code... Really?

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I can't verify the junked part, but I saw the car. Edit: Also posted up pics in my own thread when we met and got the cars together.

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Or a complete idiot ! Who does something like this? Could have sold it as a roller and easily got most the money back...

Really foolish in your eyes but for me it wasn't, it's my car, it's my money, It's my loss, this car was nothing but a toy for me. When toys are broke and Walmart want fix it you toss it or burn it. That's basically the way I feel about it, I mean, hey I couldn't get any help, I tried. BUT LISTEN MY WIFE HAS RECOVERED THE CAR FOR ME. I dropped the car this a.m. I came home and have been Very Very upset. Well she made some phone calls and the car will be back tomorrow, LUCKILY!! So this is , 1 more shot for her to corporate with me.

Xx

What I done wrong was I should have left the car as stickers and orange paint, with all that garbage gt3 clone crap, it had a turbo even, some makeship bull crap. It had aluminum racing seats, it had steering wheel that would remove, it had no dash , no carpet, no working top. No windows, .door kits, wing kit, stereo in the trunk, woofers, bull amps, speakers. It had evry aftermarket part you could bolt on stick on draw on!! , Should I had fixed the engine first? I expelled my budget long ago. I should have put the car in running state first!!

Now I'm Broke, lol. And My car is perfect back to original other than it is in limp mode and It's a hall sensor, or wires. We are going to replace engine mounts with more nice parts$$$. And see if we can't gain access by lowering the engine some while the mount are being changed

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Thanks For the information that My engine is a 2001.

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Thanks for this advice, Im going to try that, but it's crunch time!!

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Do you think dropping the engine while replacing mounts would help us figure the sensors/wires out?

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Would dropping the engine some while changing my engine mounts/there shot/ but would dropping the engine some help gain access to The wiring issues you think

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Yes it is, and my hands will say the same with all that mess in the way. I'm hoping that dropping the engine down some (if possible) while replacing engine mounts. Maybe that will give someone the room to change a sensor, what about that oil air separating devise .

If you don't mind removing the engine, I highly recommend removing the engine from the car to replace the AOS and address the bank1 cam sensor and wiring. You can try to lower the engine as much as you can when you replace the engine mounts first and see if that helps. It may. The AOS is a bear to replace (unless you remove the engine from the car). Given your posts, you may torch your car even faster.

Dropping the engine down to the cross member helps, but doing this job is extremely frustrating. Wait until you have to figure out how to remove the last bolt on the intake plenum, and also get it back in. As Ahsai has said, it is much easier to remove the engine for this work. That being said and given your attitude about the car, from what I have heard from others is this is about a $1200-1500 job for an Indy, which in your case might just be worth it.

I second everyone above. Might as well drop the engine out and get everything done and bolt back up. Make sure all is done right. It is probably less frustrating putting the engine back in than trying to fight the limited space. You are so close with the last sensor and AOS. it may even work out the timing that your engine mounts will be ready when you ready to bolt the engine back up.

Thanks you guys for the words of encouragement and motivation, we are going to make a solid attempt to get this engine running like a top. I'm throwing everything possible new on this engine if we pull it. Please someone tell me everything to replace within reason that I can do. If I have to take it to a Indy I'm not sure what a Indy is. Thanks all, I'm settled down, new approach and new attitude, wife told me to treat her like my Baby daughter, she told me this time I better have some patience, cause the car is Not a living Being, and she is not going to jump to my attention like I'm use to. Normally when I open my mouth I have the attention of everything around, but my 996 ain't listening.

Glad to see someone came to their senses! Indy=Independent (non Porsche dealer) mechanic shop familiar with Porsche 996... We're rooting for you.

Thanks 808, my other half helped me out a ton recovered the car without me knowing, she had told me late last night, I was actually in the garage just sitting on floor where the car was and crying like a baby for what I had done. I'm not sure what happened to me but I snapped, and the 996 took the blunt of the force. But it's Ok, cause I can see My baby in the garage now.

She is back just sleepy at the moment, she had a pretty scary situation yesterday, she had to sleep in the woods last night at the metal yard by herself with torn up cars and a big machine just waiting for her. That hurts Me, I know it's just a car, but I'm a serious car lover, Cars have meaning and great value to me, even our family cars. But this 996 is very special because she is not my daily, she stays indoors always, and She is My Toy, I'm smiling, she is smiling and we are going to give this another shot and approach this from a calmer angle, with a cleared head , and some fatherly patients

Looks very nice. Maybe I missed it but could you tell us more about its history and what led up to the the point of misfires and the code?

I bought the car and it had been very neglected. The oil filter had not been changed in decades it looked, there was leaf material and straw , grass, seeds, and other stuff in the oil filter and air filter was so clogged that it had ripped a hole in one end of the crumbling filter just to breathe, she was struggling to stay crank. After I saw all that , I then cleared the engine of all bad oil and filters, replaced with new oil and filter Mobil 1 0w40. Now keep in mind that this is all recently, I did not start on the engine until I got the interior and the exterior to factory original. So what I done was ran new oil and filter and dumped it after the car was ran rather spirited, but she was in limping mode and would not spool up properly, so I bought her home, dumped the fresh oil and replacing the filter, I done this 4 times, 40 quarts of oil dumped, now she is clean on the inside, but not running properly, misfires on 123 and camshaft position sensor is supposed to be Bad according to two different scanners. So me and the car had a falling out over me not being able to get to that sensor, then I lost my Bearings and went phyco For awhile.

I ordered the sensor and I had ordered a set of torque solutions engine mount I'm just trying to get this car running properly, I've pored a ton of time and money restoring her, So now it's just getting the engine right, that's it, this one sensor or faulty wires have to be replaced and I can't find a descent Indy, everyone I call just laughed at me when I say Porsche

The car was a complete aftermarket Gt. clone. The car there was nothing about it original, not even the steering wheel, or seat, nothing was original and it was terrible, I guess it was a track car. So I put her back inside and out stock, now just trying to get her running properly

Hotrodaxel1976 , I'm in the same position as you were and wonder how your project ended up. Were you able to fix it yourself by keeping the engine in the car? were you able to replace the sensor after all? If yes, then what's the trick? I haven't been able to find a good photo showing the sensor with some context. By the way your 996 is exactly the same as mine- same color, same wheels, same everything!

...

Elvis has left the building...

It is strange that this one never got sent to the cornfield isn't it?

It's never too late...

IMSB...IMSB...IMSB

Lol this is funny. I know I am replying to this thread 7 years later but I'm going thru the exact same thing. In my case dropping the engine was 3-4 hours of my time. So much easier if you want to work in it. Diagnosis broken exhaust camshaft. Solution: new camshaft. Investigate cause of break. Sounds like left over o-rings inside the engine...weird stuff anyways car should be up and running soon. Cheers ! They're complicated machines. Giving up is not an option