Help me decide on a 996 C4S !

I'm really torn looking at several C4S Cabrio options.... I am in contact with three dealers at the moment. Here are the details: All three vehicles are 6spd manual 2004 Carrera 4s and have Bose Sound, full leather, and sport exhaust all have clean titles, 3 owners Option 1: $38k, 88k miles Pros: Amazing Midnight Blue Metallic exterior, comes with factory hardtop Cons: Awful grey interior, higher mileage example with almost no service history outside some sporadic Carfax entries. assume DIY job to replace clutch, IMS, and RMS. Option 2: $40k, 65k miles Pros: Good service history, new IMS in 2024, nice black interior, beautiful seal grey metallic exterior Cons: no hardtop, front bumper was repainted recently and they seem to have failed on the color match to the body... its hard to look away from now that I've noticed it. Option 3: $48k, 27k miles Pros: Low mileage, nice black interior, recondition prior to listing (belts, brakes and fluids, strut(s) and tie rod(s)) Cons: no hardtop, ...low mileage, it did an "average" of 133 miles per year for nearly 20 years. original IMS bearing which I'd want to replace immediately I wouldn't pull the trigger on anything without a PPI plus bore scoping. Now, its possible that performing three PPIs will help me whittle down this list, however, I'm not sure I want to pay for three PPIs + cylinder scoping! I would be happier paying two... any opinions here would be appreciated.

Provided you have the budget with $ still left over after the purchase, I would choose option 2 or 3. At least in my world, those mileage differences are big because I'm only doing 2k miles per year. So it would take me a long time to get a 27k mile car to 88k miles. Condition is likely to be different across those examples as well. For instance, if one has had clear bra applied to it, I would likely be more inclined to consider that one as it should be in better condition.

I have a cabriolet and am kind of glad I don't have one of the hardtops because I would be tempted to use it . I don't want my canvas top folded for long periods. They will get permanently creased/stretched if left in the down position. I don't drive my car much in the cold weather anyway but the times I have done it, it has been very enjoyable with the top up. Don't have to find space to store the hardtop during warm season either. I would haggle hard on #3 to get the price down. If you don't get them to your price point, pivot and haggle hard on #2. I think both are high-priced considering they are cabriolets which usually trade at a significant discount to coupes. PPI is super important on these. Besides the most commonly discussed issues like IMS and bore scoring, you need someone who has real experience with the top mechanism who can expertly evaluate the condition. These can be $$$$$ to fix.

In answer to your question, I would choose 2 or 3 without having any details. It all comes down to the engine health which is a byproduct of the previous owners service history and driving habits. Assuming the PPI, oil test and bore scope check out, here are four things to think about that will cost you or the previous owner money that will help to bullet proof the engine. 1. Upgrade IMSB to LN Retro or LN Solution 2. While you are in there, check condition of clutch and flywheel. 3. Replace AOS to UAOS w/ track drain. 4. Replace water pump with new OEM While you are in there you may want to consider the following which will eventually need to be replaced and will cause codes. 1. Spark plugs and ignition coils 2. Fuel injectors and MAF 3. Oil sender unit The above 7 items will cost you about $10k for an indy to do. Half that if you are a DIY guy. The more the previous owners have done, the less out of pocket expense you will have in refreshing a 20+ year old car. The same goes for suspension, brakes, exhaust, exterior and interior maintenence. No right or wrong answer, comes down to your preferences. There is nothing better IMHO than owning and driving a bullet proof 996!

wonder what this one will sell for....? https://bringatrailer.com/listing/20...abriolet-37-2/

I would just negotiate a repaint into car #2 and buy a hardtop on the side. Hardtops are cheap. There is really no spec or any trim that could get me into a grey interior car so i completely understand passing on #1. It's a shame that so many of the blues ended up with a grey interior.

Quotes source post: 20390767

Grey is the new black. Go for it!

If the PPI comes back clean, I would go for the low mileage number 3. The price is not out of the question, but you are looking at another $10K in IMS, clutch, suspension and other deferred maintenance. Hardtops are not hard to find. Join the PCA and search the Mart. That's how I got mine.

Between 1 and 2 as they are, 2 is the best choice. But between 2 and 3 it’s a bit more difficult. Mine still had the hardtop on it when I acquired it, and I put it into my storage unit as I’ve not used it since I bought it.

Low milage cars are problems. They need to be driven and when they sit it's actually harder on them with moisture, dry rot, lack of oil in the cylinders etc. . If I were you I would buy the #1 and take the money saved and enjoy the car. BUT, it's worth pointing out that these cars are not expensive and to be honest all 3 are well more then what they are worth in my opinion. You can find clean examples for sub $25k

Quotes source post: 20391576

This.^ It's to the enthusiast's benefit the market hasn't caught on to the value these cars present right now- but that's changing. I would approach buying an aging Porsche the way one should buy vintage watches- put your funds into the best quality example with provenance you can afford. IE condition, cleanliness/presentation, # of owners and maintenance history. None of these three are perfect, so I would budget a minimum $10k to sort any example you end up buying. Adding to that, you're currently looking at three cabs, which offer an additional list of maintenance/failure points. That's not a Porsche problem, that's an aging German cabriolet problem, FYI. If ext/int condition is top of mind, buy the greatest condition car with the mind for a large mechanical refresh. If mechanical performance is most important, buy the car that has already had (a lot) of that reinvestment. Never understood the hate for the grey 996 interior, but clearly I'm the minority, lol. If the color bothers you on #1, just rule it out all together. Personally would buy #3, seems it's been on the receiving end of maintenance & looking after all around. This is the perfect time of year to maximize your purchasing power on a cab. Focus first on what you know you don't want, and continue to narrow your options. If you don't have a record of a maintenance item being completed, just assume it's never been done or will need to be done again sooner than later. Hope that's helpful. Good luck and share what you end up buying. 👍 Bradley

What�s the use case for a Cab, the increased maintenance items and bird poop concern, and concern for a Ner do well who would attempt to gain entry, or just put a knife through the top. These things would make me prefer to get a coupe, saying all that I own a cab because the weather allows it and my wife insisted.. so I end up choosing not using the car in certain situations or weather.. it would seem that those cars are all priced quite high as cabs are typically advertised for less money. I would not buy any of them and join the PCA, then get on PCA market or your local area and buy an enthusiasts car that had everything already done.

Quotes source post: 20392766

What's the use case for a cab? You answered it yourself. Women like it. But there is lots more. If you have little kids to put in the car seat in the back, it's easy peasy to drop them into the seats. If you have a disabled child like I do, it's easy to pick him up and place him in the passenger seat. I would add that one of the biggest pluses is that you can transform the whole experience by adding your hardtop when the weather is bad or cold. It's like having two 996s for the price of one. I hear that lots of people who have the hardtop never use it. I'm not sure why. It's easy to put on and take off and it stores neatly. I put mine on and off multiple times during the year. In the winter the hardtop goes on the car and the car goes into storage so the whole garage is clear. The only downside is that its another thing to break and when it does...$$$ but I wouldn't trade it for a coupe.

Buy a 996 turbo instead there is a cab on cars and bids ending in a few minutes in fact

Quotes source post: 20391576

Clean C4S manual cabs are sub 25K?

The feedback is incredibly appreciated. Helped me rule out the higher mileage option after a test drive. The dealer for option 3 would not budge on price and low balled my trade, no go. Seller on option 2 is a pleasure to work with, I'll be pursuing this one while keeping my eye on BaT As for the choice of a cabriolet? Well the argument I saw above for fun, the enjoyment of my wife, and getting very small humans in and out of a rear child seat hits home. This is exactly why I am going cab. I've been consuming used 996 buyer advice for weeks now. Based on the above feedback about maintenance, PPI items, and trouble items, I'm confident im not missing anything. Thanks again, keep an eye out for my welcome post when I finally snag.

Quotes source post: 20394330

In my search for a 356 I learned a phrase ( here ) that totally jived with me: Buy the Seller, Not Just the Car. For all of our cars, the personality and integrity of the seller was a major factor and we still reminisce about the experience. Because of the seller, all of the cars were exactly what we thought we were getting with no surprises. Makes a huge difference for me.

Quotes source post: 20394330

I see a couple comments on the price of the cars you are considering and I respectfully disagree. My sister-in-law paid $40K last year for a C4 (not even an S) that had been well cared for, had the IMS bearing replaced and sold by a Porsche dealer with a very good reputation. She has had to do nothing to it. Depending on where you live, having the IMS bearing replaced now could easily be north of $5K. My own journey with a cab between purchase price, remediating all the known issues and deferred maintenance totaled well north of $40K and took over three years to complete because I didn't have the resources to pay for it all at once. Your little ones will love it, but you can't use the windscreen with the kids in the back, FYI.

Quotes source post: 20394551

To each their own but I would say she over paid for the car. Reason being even with clean examples, they will all need maintenance. In this case, having a cam deviation reading done is critical because if they are higher then acceptable, that will cost you $6-$9K. Add that on top of $40k paid and she WAY over paid for the car thats worth roughly $25K. I'm sure circumstances are all different, but these cars are only worth what someone is willing to pay and most educated buyers know they range from $15k-$30k (and thats a stretch). Just my $0.02 worth.

Issue with C4S cab or C4S is lovely car but at current used prices you may as well go for a 996 Turbo for a little more $ and have enough power to move all that weight, get a metzger instead of M96 engine and have better long-term resale....Love the rear light bar on the 996.2 C4S but a lot of extra weight to motivate

I agree about the extra weight on the C4s cab.... the other day one of the newer Corvettes, dont know which year started to flex on the interstate and I got my '04 C4s cab up to 115 and he just slowly pulled away. So that settles it I'm dumping this overweight soth and hello Mr, Metzger.

There is something to be said for a lightweight 996.2 narrow body C2 or GT3 that drops 100 lbs thru a sound diet of light weight exhaust, rear seat removal and front seat lightweight buckets, as well as a dialed in suspension, upgraded brakes and tires. For sure, anybody can mash the throttle going in a straight line, but very few can actually balance the car when braking and navigating the entry and exit of a corner. Such is the beauty of a well sorted M96 or Mezger powered 996.

Quotes source post: 20394402

You see, I disagree with that philosophy wholeheartedly. I've bought and sold 100s of old cars over the years, and many of them came from wholesale auctions. Sure, the previous owner can be a factor in the quality of the car, but its not necessarily a factor. In fact, Ive come across many long term owners out there who have done their best to take care of a car, garaged, hand washed, sent it to the dealer every 5k like a good little boy, yadda yadda yadda, and can be completely unknowledgeable about the weak points of said car, and you can make a mistake by buying it. (Example: there are a lot of old, long term 996 owners out there who are completely clueless about the M96 bore-scoring issue) By the same token, there are many good cars out there that for some reason fall into the hands of someone who might not seem like good owners on the surface, might be a little "shady", may have only owned it for a short time, only selling because it was their dads and he died, etc.... and it can be a great car, and even better, you might get a great deal on it because they dont even know what they have. I think buyers can mistakenly walk away from good cars and good deals, because they've judged a car by the owner. You have to do your own homework, trust yourself, be your own inspector, know what to look for and what to look out for, and buy the car first, and maybe consider the seller, but dont make any assumptions of the car based on that seller. There are just no hard and fast rules when it comes to used cars, there are always exceptions.

Come to Canada - 600 miles from Boston. 2004 Porsche 911 | $45,888 | 116,472 km | Gasoline Convertible for sale by Mr. Motor | North York, ON Under $35K US$ 70000 miles. 2004 Porsche 911 | $42,995 | 70,871 km | Gasoline Convertible for sale by Auto Planet Brampton | Brampton, ON Under $35K US$ 35000 miles 2004 Porsche 911 | $31,990 | 159,054 km | Gasoline Convertible for sale by Flynn Automotive | St. Catharines, ON $20K US$ 100000 miles. IMS done (I do not know these, cars, just see them available). I've been looking at 996 pricing in the US for a while now. I have a 2003 C2 - 40,000 miles. no accidents, all original, IMS solution, etc. etc. I would be lucky to get $30K US$ for it Canada. I thinks it is a $40K US$ car based on what I'm seeing for sale especially being all original, low mileage and excellent maintenance. Here is a thread: Canadian 996 Values - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums And Canadian cars have a better speedo - shows 300 km/h!

Quotes source post: 20397144

Hate to burst your bubble but the Vette wasn't trying to hard. If it was a "newer" Vette like a C7 or C8, your 996 (unless it's a 996 turbo) will NOT hold a candle to that car. He was playing with you.

Quotes source post: 20397234

These are excellent points and I completely agree with you... I have an early build 996.1 Carrera and it feels so light on its feet, even more playful and fun than a 996 TT Plenty fast at 2900lbs before any weight reduction...

Quotes source post: 20397490

For sure, the Turbo and C4S are incredible cars. The Turbo has huge power. But the narrow body 996 when set up properly is a nimble and engaging driving machine that you can easily cut thru turns to carry speed. The term "momentum" car is very accurate. It really is an incredible car. Best advice I can give is to make friends with a PCA driving instructor that owns a 996 and sit in the passenger seat on a track day. You will be in awe of what a 996 can do.

@GC996 as you know the 3.4 996.1 is even sweeter than the later 3.6

Quotes source post: 20406904

Hah! We all have a preference with blondes, brunettes or red heads! Any 996 is a good 996.

I recently purchased a Forest Green Metallic 2004 C4S Cab from udriveautomobiles.com near Philly. It had 26k miles on it, and only 980 driven over the last 9 years. New tires, and some basic maintenance, I put 15k miles on it in about 10 months and it runs like a new car. Get the low mileage car, do all the maintenance at a dealership the first time so they can take a look at everything and give you a report. Learn to change your oil. It will run forever.

Quotes source post: 20396254

I love that this thread has taken on a life of its own... but I have completely pivoted to shopping for a 996 turbo instead... haha! Spoiler alert: NONE of the cars above are options any more

Quotes source post: 20407936

Definitely worth it to spend the extra money over a manual C4S Cab. You get 95hp, 100 lbs of curb weight and most importantly the Mezger engine. A bargain considering a manual Turbo Coupe is double the price of a comparable C4S Coupe.

Quotes source posts: 20407896, 20407936

if only it was that easy Correct move! Good luck in your search!