Brake system flush

Going to flush the brakes and decided to change the hoses also. Can I R&R a hose, bleed that position then move on to the next or should I remove all 4 hoses, replace then do a flush.

Replace all parts then bleed. There is a very good chance you may introduce air into the system if you bleed and then re-open things to install the hoses on the next corner. It's a system designed to be sealed and operate under pressure. You'll probably use less fluid that way too.

Buy a Motive pressure bleader. It makes bleading an easy it a 1 person job.

I already have one. Actually I wore it out and had to buy a replacement.

I would still do all 4 lines then bleed the whole car.

A tip or 2 that might help you or others... 1) a dry 996 brake hydraulic systems holds almost 3 quarts. 2) a complete flush including clutch slave takes at least 1.5 quarts min. Make sure to have enough fluid on hand. 3) I also wore out my Motive bleeder, might have something to do with me cleaning it with brake clean. Seems with my stable of 4 bleed-able vehicles, my usage is only a once a year or so operation. So any left over fluid in the Motive is not good to leave in there for months. So it must be cleaned out. I broke my Motive with break clean. So, I picked up this cheaper Amazon PB, works as good as Motive and I like the quick connect ends better. Amazon Amazon Last few bleeds, Been doing a 'dry pressure bleed' using the pressure bleeder to put air pressure on top of the reservoir. That way no filling the PB with fluid and having to deal with cleaning it out after bleeding is done. Just have to keep the half quart brake fluid reservoir from going empty, thats not hard. jmo

Great minds think alike. The bleeder you linked is the same one I also bought to replace the Motive unit.

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If you have the same bleeder as me, use the reservoir cap from the bleeder kit and put a rubber vacuum cap over the quick connect nipple of the cap. Try to keep cap tight and use a tight fitting rubber vac cap, this will create somewhat of a vacuum in system and keep fluid loss/mess to minimum. This should help keep all your fluid from draining out when removing the brake hoses for replacement... Depending on how long system is open and a few other variables, the above might prevent you from having to bleed the master/&orABS after a 4 brake hose removal/replacement...

Its not 3 quarts capacity. The mc holds 1 pint and then the lines hold a little more then a pint. I plan on 3 pints for a full track flush.

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2.7 liter is the specs. Thats for a dry system. Empty calipers, empty ABS, empty lines/hoses.reservoir.... I agree, 1.5 quarts(3pints) is a good total flush.

Do you activate the ABS?

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That's what I do too.

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No. If u dont push air into the abs unit there is no need to cycle it....so dont run the dry

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Last bleed/flush, didn't activate the ABS brake bleed function on my 996.1, Brake flush the time before on my 2002 996.2, did activate the ABS brake bleed function, was the first time for me. Not sure if or how much fluid the abs/psm pump holds of dirty fluid in it if not activated..? Probably will activate the abs/psm pump next bleeding also and from now on will try to do it on everything I flush for a (maybe..?) more complete flush...

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Press the pedal when removing the brake hose, that way the MC should not be able to leak easier.

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Do you prop it in place partially depressed?

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I mean once you remove the hose the pedal will go to the floor when some pressure is on it. That closes the Mc to brake lines. So yes, I put the brake lines back with the brake pedal to the floor.

Or just disco the line at the hard line and put a rubber cap on it. Remove and replace the flex line and reconnect. If u step in the pedal with an open line it will spray fluid everywhere. also found in the help isle of the parts store Amazon Amazon

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I somehow destroyed 2 Motive bleeders with minimal use. The first one I cleaned really well after use with some alcohol to get all the fluid out. I thought that may have messed up the seals such that I could no longer make pressure when pumping. Next one I did not clean like that and same result (brake fluid residue probably did that one in) Now I use it dry to just create pressure and I watch the brake fluid reservoir and just fill it periodically and then re-pressurize. That works. I assume its user error but haven'y determined ehat the error is !

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My assumption is once the bleeder pump seals get wet then dry out for maybe months after cleaning the bleeder , that dry plunger seal creates a bad seal in the pump mechanism rendering the pump useless.. Now if the Motive or probably any of the PB are used more in a commercial fashion a few time a week or more, and left with fluid maybe half filled to keep pump seals always wet, then this probably won't be a problem... On my new PB I took the pump out and inserted it into a container with automatic transmission oil. Tranny oil seems to be very friendly to seals. Cycled the plunger maybe 5/6 times fully in and out then took it out of the tanny oil container, let it drip dry' wiped it down good & continued to let it drip dry for a couple days. Hopefully this will preserve the pump plunger. After it stopped dripping tranny oil I put it back in the bleeder bottle with the top gasket greased good for a tight leak free seal. No tranny was on bottom of bottle. Also removed the bottles interior straw that feeds the hose. I have never used the pump plunger to create pressure in this bleeder bottle as the unit intended. I pressurize the bottle with my air compressor, its much quicker and easier than pumping the plunger. Set up one of my air compressor blow guns to use the quick connector on the bleeder unit. Couple of quick blasts fills the bottle to 25-28psi on the bottles gauge, then snap off the quick connector from blow gun, and snap it on the reservoir cap quick connect nipple. Quick and easy fill. Now there is 25psi on/in the reservoir. Once the pressure drops to under 20psi after bleeding a corner or 2, push the metal air release valve on the pressure bleeder bottle to release all pressure, snap off the quick connect on the reservoir cap, and refill the bottle with pressure. All never using the pump plunger...