30 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCH996 electrical problem
Reported or suspected cause
reason why it refused
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
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Reported cause · Original poster
So what happened was most likely I managed to blow that main fuse in process of replacing ignition lock electrical part, and that failure of it was the reason why it refused to start.
Leading evidence: 'reason why it refused' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'reason why it refused' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check any and all fuses' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Replace 12v+ at battery and terminal in engine bay
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
We know this: fresh battery, electrical portion of the ignition switch replaced, 12V+ at battery and terminal in engine bay.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Used jumper points and replaced battery with my trucks working one and tried that flat head trick.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Used jumper points and replaced battery with my trucks working one and tried that flat head trick.
Check with immobilizer (passive means no key battery is necessary)
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Suggestion
1) Key in ignition, turn to on, the DME reads the passive RFID pill in the ignition key at the ignition key surround and there is a two way check with immobilizer (passive means no key battery is necessary)
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
reason why it refused
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Reported cause · Original poster
So what happened was most likely I managed to blow that main fuse in process of replacing ignition lock electrical part, and that failure of it was the reason why it refused to start.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
30 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
All good now and thanks guys for your help, case closed !!
My 2000 996 developed a problem. Stopped at the gas station, filled her up and tried to start, nothing happened. All dash lights were the. Locked up doors, went in and now all power seems to be gone, no dash lights, windows don't work etc. Headlights are dimmed. Radio works. Key battery is OK so immobilizer is OK I think ...
Replaced ignition key lock, electrical part. All fuses looks to be OK. All ideas to what to check next are welcome ...
Be sure to check grounding points for Y cable - especially if battery checks out ok (clean/check terminals as well). The ground points for the Y cable are notorious for electrical problems (they become loose/oxidized and lead to all types of electrical gremlins).
Sure sounds like a dead battery. Did you use the jumper points in the engine bay? The reason I'm asking is your battery may have a dead cell, creating a situation where a complete circuit through the battery is not made. AGM batteries are notorious for working one day and completely dead the next. As said, make sure to check your engine ground cable behind the passenger side rear wheel. Also, it might work to take the electrical switch out and with the key in the ignition, turn it with a flat blade screwdriver....never tried that before myself.
Did you replace the electrical portion of the ignition switch? Sounds like you are going to have to get at it with a multimeter to find out where the drop in voltage is going, or not going. Like with the truck battery connected, are you getting 12V to the engine bay jumper point? Check the ground continuity from the engine to the frame. Is it that you have 12V at the battery, 12V at the jumper point and nothing still happens when you try to start? How bright are the headlights with the different battery connected?
Jump points are after the ground point(s)...It's a long cable run from the front of the car (lots of resistance) make sure the grounds are clean and tight then try it again...
I'm not totally sure what the Start/Lock relay does, but it might be worth it to swap one of the spoiler relays for that and see what happens. Relay Support 2 is under the carpeting on the rear shelf.
Switched relays, no help. Grounding OK, brand new battery installed. 12 Volts at jump terminals, no volts on ignition lock wiring ...
Edit: Immobilizer issue of some kind ?
Have you checked any and all fuses for the ignition, DME and immobilizer? What about the ignition switch electrical portion? I forget what is in Relay support 1, I'll have to look that up.
Immobilizer cuts only starter motor. All other electronics work. Check the battery voltage from battery and then at the engine, there is positive terminal above the ac compressor.
I bet that the fault is in the main power harness.
I think we need to have a bit more information to narrow it down:
We know this: fresh battery, electrical portion of the ignition switch replaced, 12V+ at battery and terminal in engine bay.
In order to start these things happen:
1) Key in ignition, turn to on, the DME reads the passive RFID pill in the ignition key at the ignition key surround and there is a two way check with immobilizer (passive means no key battery is necessary)
2) dashboard cluster lights come on, oil level check, odometer shows mileage,clock is displayed
3) If the correct key is in the ignition and the two way communication between the DME and immobilizer checks out, then moving the key to start will crank the engine
4) Press down on the clutch pedal so the safety switch completes the circuit
5) In start mode, the ignition switch 12V sends 12V to the Start/Lock relay, which in turn sends 12V to the starter solenoid, which in turn kicks in and the main 12V high amperage is applied to the starter to turn the motor over
At which point is the starting process not working? Even if the key is not in the ignition, the lights will still come on...do they and are they bright? Did you check to see if the RFID pill is still in the key...they have been known to fall out (rare but happens)? If you have two keys, are they both doing the same thing? Did you disconnect or mess with any other wires behind the ignition switch, or maybe bump something and have a loose connection?
I think problem is with main harness somewhere since there's no power ignition lock at any wires. So turning the key doesn't bring on dash lights. Turning light switch brings on parking lights. Interior lights do work as hazards. Need to figure out harness connection points and start debugging from there.
This is a diagram of the main power distribution. You will have to find the points of connection and check them, starting with the main battery cable to the power distribution box.
http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=902-05
The power distribution box (part #16) is mounted to the firewall in the passenger compartment. The mounting studs and positive cable stud extend through the firewall where the positive battery cable bolts to the firewall. Unbolt the positive cable and mounting nuts and pull it down, there are a few fuseable links inside that need to be tested. If one of the links is burned out proceed with caution, as there is very large short circuit somewhere !!
Now we are getting somewhere. Blown 80A fuse on junction box #16. Went to BMW today only to find out one can be shipped to store in next monday. Ideas who has these, I guess Audi & VW ...
What caused it we don't know at this point. No burnt wires anywhere. Debugging continues tomorrow, thanks for your help so far!
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What you are going to have to figure out is why that 80 AMP fusible link blew. Here is the diagram of the distribution box and functions. Is it possible that that center fusible link got blown when you changed out the ignition switch, because that is what it is for.
You should get two. Disconnect battery negative cable before putting the fusible link in. Then connect the battery and see if everything is working. If it blows, you'll have to check the ignition switch and wires there for a short. But at least you have another one to put in after you discover the short, if any.
Replaced fuse, provided auxiliary power to junction box with cables to see if fuse blows. Dash lights up. Put everything back into place, start, car fires right up. Oooooooyea !!
So what happened was most likely I managed to blow that main fuse in process of replacing ignition lock electrical part, and that failure of it was the reason why it refused to start.
All good now and thanks guys for your help, case closed !!
