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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHWater pump clues
Reported or suspected cause
idler roller bearing not the power steering pump
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Identified cause
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Suspected cause
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Reported fixes
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Discussions that report identifying a cause
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Reported cause
Proved to be an idler roller bearing not the power steering pump.
Leading evidence: 'idler roller bearing not the power steering pump' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'idler roller bearing not the power steering pump' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust aggressiveness of your preventive maintenance schedule based' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Sometimes when the water pump is replaced gasket sealer is used.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
So I finally replaced my water pump at 83k miles on a '99.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Yes, I noticed that the upper left idle pulleys "rocked" a bit when I pushed and pulled it, although it ran freely when I spun it.
Adjust aggressiveness of your preventive maintenance schedule based
Suggestion or failed attempt
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Suggestion
Moral: consider adjusting the aggressiveness of your preventive maintenance schedule based on how hard you pound on your 996.
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Suggestion
It has been too long since I checked the idler/tensioner roller bearings on my Boxster -- I only had these exposed once when I was trouble shooting what proved to be a bad water pump -- and I can't recall now how much play and what kind of play -- if any -- the otherwise healthy idler/tensioner roller bearing had.
Clean water pump and its bolts carefully -- do not
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Suggestion
If you clean the water pump and its bolts carefully -- do not use anything that would possibly remove paint -- you might still see these dabs of paint.
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Suggestion
It violates my don't fix it if it ain't broke rule but as I noted above both times an idler bearing was making noise I had all idlers and the tensioner replaced even though just one was bad.
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Suggestion
No experience with the idler/tensioner roller bearings on my Boxster, even with over 300K miles on the originals, but I'vd had to replace the idler/tensioner roller bearings on my Turbo twice now in under 150K miles.
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20 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T052503Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I am considering replacing my '99 cab's water pump as preventive maintenance. I would really like to know if it has been replaced before but the prior owners records are spotty. Any easy way to tell if it has been replaced?
Look for mounting bolts with wear to the "remove" drive side. Although this won't indicate if it was changed at 10K miles, or 10K miles ago.
Or go to a dealer with your VIN and ask if they have a record for water pump replacement previously.
You will have to look very carefully to see if the water pump gasket is cut (in multiple places). See the last 5 photos here
http://p-car.com/996/diy/waterpump/
The original gasket is a single piece without any cuts (figure 3 here
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm
) that includes sealing some other ports beside the water pump.
And of course that will only tell you if the gasket has been replaced
FWIW, I changed my original water pump at 67K miles; the pump's seal and plastic impeller still looked like new. But I felt so much better afterwards!
relinuca
I hear you relinuca. I am at 73k miles and have no indication of a problem.
I had the IXS and RXS ( I refuse to use the actual names) replaced when i first got the car so I could sleep at night...
My water pump showed no issues @ approx. 55K miles, but a single run to 150MPH burned out the bearing and caused the pump to leak (significantly) at the shaft. Moral: consider adjusting the aggressiveness of your preventive maintenance schedule based on how hard you pound on your 996.
While I haven't checked specifically the 996 engine with other engines generally when the engine is assembled at the factory the assembler dabs paint onto various bolts/fasteners as a sign they have received proper torqueing.
If you clean the water pump and its bolts carefully -- do not use anything that would possibly remove paint -- you might still see these dabs of paint.
If you see these then if they are intact this suggests the pump is original.
You can also look for tool marks on the bolt head flats that would be present only if the bolts were removed. When the bolts are installed at the factory they are tightened and should only show marks on their flats from this.
Look for the presence of some gasket sealer having squeezed out from between the pump and engine mating surfaces. Sometimes when the water pump is replaced gasket sealer is used.
I asked a similar question this year and 5CHN3LL gave me some great advice. Instead of trying to time it as a maintenance item just inspect it periodically. If the pump's pulley shows signed of leaking then replace it. If you remove the drive belt and find play in the pulley then replace it. If its not leaking and the pulley is secure then drive it and enjoy.
Note: a month after he gave me that advice I found a small leak at the pulley and ended up replacing mine. I replaced mine with the genuine Porsche pump and the gasket it came with (no additional sealer).
Ahsai is correct, the original gasket had to be cut in two places during the removal. It might be possible to see if the gasket is still linked to the other part of the engine and not cut.
Engines, all engines, tell you when something is wrong. Don't igomre it and drive it because the leak is smalll. FIX it right away. Or look for a play in the WP pulley with the belt off. Cars don't fix themselves. If it occured once, it will do the same thig again soon.....with a vengance!
It looks like this forum has offered up some options for you to try and determine if the pump has been replaced. I hope you will have success with one of them. BTW, my water pump failed at 50K with no advanced warning.
So I finally replaced my water pump at 83k miles on a '99. The old pump looked fine and was original (the gasket had not been cut). The car does seem to run a bit quieter (less squeaking). No real issues on the install, the hardest part was getting the upper thermostat housing bolt back in.
Anyone want an old water pump and thermostat ?
Preventative maintenance means replacing parts before they fail to prevent the consequences of when they fail. You should be good for at least 3 years.
Yes, I noticed that the upper left idle pulleys "rocked" a bit when I pushed and pulled it, although it ran freely when I spun it. The other two pulleys didn't rock at all but didn't spin freely when I spun them. I'm thinking I should replace all three. Thoughts?
No experience with the idler/tensioner roller bearings on my Boxster, even with over 300K miles on the originals, but I'vd had to replace the idler/tensioner roller bearings on my Turbo twice now in under 150K miles.
In both cases the bad idler bearing was making a noise. The first time it was a "dry bearing" sound that was id'd coming from up high at the back of the car. Proved to be an idler roller bearing not the power steering pump.
Second time the car emitted a faint chirp chirp chirp after cold start and while idling. The belt was not not wet or slipping. The diagnosis again was an idler (or tensioner) roller bearing and I had all replaced.
It has been too long since I checked the idler/tensioner roller bearings on my Boxster -- I only had these exposed once when I was trouble shooting what proved to be a bad water pump -- and I can't recall now how much play and what kind of play -- if any -- the otherwise healthy idler/tensioner roller bearing had.
My point is with no noise the idler/tensioner roller bearings may be just fine.
So absent a clear indication of a problem it is up to you. I do not recall how much these cost to buy and install but if the price is tolerable to you I guess you could just go ahead and have this done or do this. It violates my don't fix it if it ain't broke rule but as I noted above both times an idler bearing was making noise I had all idlers and the tensioner replaced even though just one was bad. So I do upon occasion violate my don't fix it if it ain't broke "rule".
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