23 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHStarting up after winter storage
Reported or suspected cause
somebody driving over the limits of adhesion
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
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Reported cause
This was due to somebody driving over the limits of adhesion.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
When I had my old 356 and 912, I used to pull the plugs squirt some oil vapor, turn the motor over by hand a number of times, fire it up check the timing with a light, and drive off into the sunset.....I am showing my age here....those were the days before having California warning labels to explain the dangers of plastic bags or drinking windshield washer fluid.
Leading evidence: 'somebody driving over the limits of adhesion' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'somebody driving over the limits of adhesion' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check timing' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Last spring I set the air pressure in the tires, disconnected the battery tender, placed the rubber cover over the tender wire harness that is permanently attached to the battery, and started the car.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion
When I had my old 356 and 912, I used to pull the plugs squirt some oil vapor, turn the motor over by hand a number of times, fire it up check the timing with a light, and drive off into the sunset.....I am showing my age here....those were the days before having California warning labels to explain the dangers of plastic bags or drinking windshield washer fluid.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
In the Fall, I add stabilizer, top up the tank, park it on the lift, plugged into the trickle charger and fill the tires.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
I've always done this...pop the batteries in, inflate tires, start and go fill with fresh gas.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Check timing
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
When I had my old 356 and 912, I used to pull the plugs squirt some oil vapor, turn the motor over by hand a number of times, fire it up check the timing with a light, and drive off into the sunset.....I am showing my age here....those were the days before having California warning labels to explain the dangers of plastic bags or drinking windshield washer fluid.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Early springtime, I change the tires as I have a second set that I keep in the house and after installing them, I usually crank it over a few clicks without the full pump relay, making sure everything turns, then install it and fire it up, and drive it carefully without exceeding three grand and drive for some miles until it is good and warmed up.....replace the oil and filter.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
23 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261026T113718Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
My �01 C2 has been sitting in my garage since last November, charging on a CTEK battery maintainer, with Stabil in the tank. My question is: are there any recommended procedures for starting her up again? I�ve read that some folks remove a relay to allow the engine to crank but not start to allow oil circulate before starting.
Normally I head out on a 30 minute highway trip right after starting to allow the motor to come up to temp. Does that still apply in this case?
Thanks!
Cranking over the motor will not bring up the oil pressure. From what I have read, start the motor and then shut if off. Do this three times, then go for a drive.
This.
I've torn down engines that have sat for years and found plenty of oil on all the cam and crank journals. Don't overthink this; just hit the key.
A cold start that�s been a long time between starts will cause the DME to spike the engine to nearly 2,000 RPM immediately by itself. It does this to make sure oil pressure is built up asap.
Agree, just turn the key and drive off as soon as you can, keeping revs between 2000-3000 until warm. I drive like this on all cold starts to warm up the car.
I change the oil, drive it around a little, some stable in the tank, and then put it away. Early springtime, I change the tires as I have a second set that I keep in the house and after installing them, I usually crank it over a few clicks without the full pump relay, making sure everything turns, then install it and fire it up, and drive it carefully without exceeding three grand and drive for some miles until it is good and warmed up.....replace the oil and filter. When I had my old 356 and 912, I used to pull the plugs squirt some oil vapor, turn the motor over by hand a number of times, fire it up check the timing with a light, and drive off into the sunset.....I am showing my age here....those were the days before having California warning labels to explain the dangers of plastic bags or drinking windshield washer fluid. However, if my thought process for starting my 996 is wrong, I'll consider the advice.......
I think Jake Raby has said not to pull the fuse because the starter motor cannot spin the engine fast enough to generate sufficient oil pressure on this engine.
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Well, I don't pull the fuse, however, I just want to make sure the belts and critters haven't gotten inside or chewed something, so turning it over is not for oil pressure......I can only see so far into the engine area as it is. I haven't had any problems since building a new garage just for the 996 but these things can find a way. Last year the cat caught over twenty-three chipmunks and a couple of dozen field mice and the other good news was that "Bob the Bear" didn't break into the garage either.
Yes, after I drive it around for a while to eliminate the condensation from sitting around for less than three months, check it again and make a determination to change or drive it for another couple of months. Sure it is the death knell to engines to sit around, but having to drive around in salt/calcium partly plowed roads with tree branches hidden under snow would be worse. One year my old 912 suffered a hit and run which required a new front pan, suspension pieces, and sheet metal. This was due to somebody driving over the limits of adhesion. I still harbor some resentment and wish the person would go and fornicate in a self-abusive manner......if you know what I mean!
It�s interesting that I�ve heard condensation can accumulate for a stored engine that never runs. And I thought water was all from combustion, but now I wonder. And it makes sense. There�s water in air, and the engine is not sealed. Temp changes affect humidity and such.
Last spring I set the air pressure in the tires, disconnected the battery tender, placed the rubber cover over the tender wire harness that is permanently attached to the battery, and started the car. If fired up as if I drove it the day before, not 4 months before. Oil pressure came up immediately. I took the car out of the garage and went for a drive. The oil was fresh, as was the filter, so no need to drain 8 quarts of oil out just because it sat for a few months.
This spring I will do the exact same procedure. The 996 paranoia has gotten to all of us!
Agreed. I will do the same with my 996 (and C230 coupe and 323i and Scirocco) though I prefer to do my oil change in the spring AFTER hibernation. I've always done this...pop the batteries in, inflate tires, start and go fill with fresh gas. Then drive like I didn't just go through 6 months of winter hell.
And thanks for reminding me I have to buy 25 litres of oil for all the spring oil changes due....
Question: What if it is stored in a temperature controlled warehouse, with little to no fluctuations...would that ease (or even eliminate?) the build up of condensation?
That depends on the temperature and the relative humudity of the air in the warehouse.
To avoid condensation on metal (or any heat conductive) surfaces the temperature must be higher than the dew point temperature for the air in the warehouse and its relative humidity.
Any temp above 65F generally would prevent condensation.
I know most change the oil in the Fall. I don't. In the Fall, I add stabilizer, top up the tank, park it on the lift, plugged into the trickle charger and fill the tires. Come spring time, before first start, I drain the oil and let it drain for a couple days. I only put on limited mileage (1000 miles per season) so I can see the oil being particularly contaminated for storage. I then refill with new filter and then start it up and go for a drive. I make sure oil pressure comes up and every year it pegs the gauge. I can't see doing a Fall oil change only to drain it in the spring with not even a single start up.
I keep seeing references to changing oil every 6 months. This does not make sense to me on a car that does not even get started for 6 months.
Wonder if this 996 grenaded using barn find oil lol
We Opened a Barn and Found a Ferrari + Porsches Inside...
Ask a pharmacist for a big plastic Med bottle, they'll give you one for free. Put a bunch of cotton ***** in the bottle but add many drops of peppermint oil to each layer. Drill some 1/8" holes in the top and zip tie it in the engine compartment. Check it every 6 months or so to rejuvenate the oil. I've been doing this for years and never had any issues.
Cold winter air is generally very dry� I think there is a lot of over-thinking going on here. I�m with the change the oil before you store it for the winter. Then, start it and drive it (with an emphasis on drive it) in the spring, summer & fall group!
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