Low Pressure Power Steering Union Connection - HELP!

Okay, I'm pulling the engine and I was able to get the high pressure hose disconnected, but the low pressure it on TIGHT! I'm using two flared crows feet with two people, but the darn line that goes under the car fitting stripped. I was thinking of cutting the hose that goes to the pump, then get that fixed at a hydraulic shop after I get the engine out, but I still need to get the connection apart. Any ideas? Thanks.

I'm sure you have it correct but make sure the ratchet on the back is clockwise and front counter clockwise. I can't remember what it was, maybe some plumbing recently that I was tightening and not loosening. Ratchets with longer handles would be my first suggestions.

The 19mm flat on the movable portion (car side, not engine side) is stripped. It stripped while trying to take it off, I was turning it in the correct direction (clockwise as you are standing behind the car).

Okay, I think I have a solution. Cut the line either in the engine compartment, or under the car behind a plastic panel with a pipe cuter, then flare each of the ends (I have a high quality flare tool for AC lines, hopefully it will work on aluminum), then use a rubber hose and hose clamps to secure the two ends of the hose to the aluminum pipe. It's the return line, so almost no pressure, sounds like a pretty good solution to me.

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Maybe try a small 12-14" pipe wrench to hold the stripped hex, (make sure to have the teeth facing the right direction and it will hold tight ) and a big wrench on the other fitting..? maybe add some wd40 and or a little heat

If you can get the fitting apart you can replace the brass part. It's held on with a chinese finger puzzle kind of clip. You can get new from Porsche or buy a used line & salvage the fitting.

Thanks for that info! I wasn't aware. https://www.design911.com/p/porsche-...s-99923055210/ VOSS is the manufacturer of these couplers. Perhaps they offer it as a spare part for a fraction of the porsche price. https://www.voss.net/en/industry-sol...ry/automobile/

Okay, went and bought a new cut off tool for $11 at Home Depot. The line goes way up high under the body before it gets to the rack, so I cut it on the straight in the engine compartment. Once I get the engine out, I'll flare each end and this will be the new disconnect. I hope it doesn't leak!! Pray to the Porsche gods for me! The tool is installed: And she is now in two!

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Agree, a small pipe wrench is now needed but the key may be heat. Many times threads like this have sealant applied to keep them nice and dry. These sealants will soften with heat. Not enough heat to melt the lines or start a fire so don't go taking a blow torch to it, something like 250F for a few minutes. If you can get wrenches on it and apply pressure while someone else heats it up would be the best bet. Good luck.

This connection is just an high pressure interference fit. It has a large surface area that "fusses" together. Its also brass so the nut is soft. Some heat would help but u will melt the plastic bits.... I would have discoed at the pump and delt with it when the motor was out. Its much easier to get to when the motor is out of the way. The op may want to see if DCAuto can get him a good used line so he doesnt have to take a chance with a flare. By the time he can test it it will be too late to replace it (motor will be back in).

No sealant or thread locker, at least not from the factory, on these threads. Heat certainly helps but the melting temp of the pa12 covering is around 180�C is quite low so not much heat can be applied. If available a piece if aluminised heat shield hose probably allows more heat directly onto the brass coupler but will require replacement of the o-ring inside it. ( https://www.hydro.com/en/global/alum...-applications/ )

I ended up buying a 12mm compression fitting union or whatever you might call it. Got it the other day, just had to clean up the cut end of the pipe and it fit right over it. I will install the car side first before the motor is back in, and then install the engine side once the motor is almost all the way in. Will be the new disconnect for the low pressure line. I think it's going to work like a champ.

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Not sure how familiar you are with these type fittings. So here's a little tip, take it or leave it.... Compression fittings with a brass ferrule are considered a one-time-use component because the ferrule compresses/deforms to create a seal, making it unreliable to reuse since it has already been compressed once and doesn't bounce back to shape being brass. The compression nut and union can be reused. The brass ferrule locks/compresses onto the pipe and cannot be properly re-compressed in a second use to be a dependable leak proof seal. It is difficult to remove ferrule without damage to tube, most times ferrule will need to be cut off with tubing and new ferrule slid on to new undamaged section of pipe. Not sure if plastic coating on your tube will interfere with ferrule sealing and or longevity of seal..? A brass ferrule is meant to be used on bare pipe/tube that it can 'dig' into and seal.. That being said, I have reused brass comp fittings without replacing the ferrule in a pinch setting.. Second use seems to need max tightening torque to avoid leaks. The extra torque compresses the ferrule just a little bit more than the prior use and seems to seal ok. So you might want to use minimum torque for first time use as needed to just seal it up without leaks so next use you can compress ferrules a little tighter to get a seal... You can always tighten a comp fitting more if you've got a little seep/drip. Best mechanical practice for final tightening is to align wrenches in a way so as to be able to put both wrenches in one hand and squeeze wrenches together (with one or both hands) to get the proper torque on the fitting. Same practice for flare fittings. A very light drop of oil on ferrule/fitting can help in getting a good seal without galling. Do not ever use pipe dope or Teflon tape on comp or flare fittings.