8 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHHeader ceramic coated SS ARP Studs
Leading reported evidence
Install deep sump
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I just enjoyed it as a little challenge and fitted a deep sump ,so the studs were verrrry long.I used threaded rod that I cut to size
Leading evidence: 'Install deep sump' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Install deep sump' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I used the purple on the coil - and have to look for ones you have listed - Nord locks are awesomely good - used on axels when I raced ( never back out after that)
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I used the purple on the coil - and have to look for ones you have listed - Nord locks are awesomely good - used on axels when I raced ( never back out after that)
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I just enjoyed it as a little challenge and fitted a deep sump ,so the studs were verrrry long.I used threaded rod that I cut to size
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Suggestion
The Loctte 246 will 'set' the stud without any torque setting.You are only using a very small allen/hex wrench in your hand, so getting more than about 5Nm would be painful !.
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Suggestion
The Loctte 246 will 'set' the stud without any torque setting.You are only using a very small allen/hex wrench in your hand, so getting more than about 5Nm would be painful !.
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Suggestion
The amount of thread engagement is almost double stock because the stock bolts are so much shorter than the holes in the crankcase.So just stop when you feel the stud bottom out.Let the Loctite set on the stud/crankcase interface before you tighten the nuts later.
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Suggestion
The amount of thread engagement is almost double stock because the stock bolts are so much shorter than the holes in the crankcase.So just stop when you feel the stud bottom out.Let the Loctite set on the stud/crankcase interface before you tighten the nuts later.
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8 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Hello all its starting to come together on exhaust bought 2 sets of SS ARP 8 x 1.25 and the winner is 51mm - order number 400-8004
The 45 mm not enough grip - all of you help me figure things out - thought i would share
I have written this up elsewhere with links but here are the basics.
The technique is to :
1. use blue 246 high temp Loctite on the stud threads into the alloy crankcase.Use the hex insert to put them in hand tight. Let it set.
2. attach the header and nuts. Use Loctite green 294(not 290) high temp self-wicking on the nuts.
3. use s/s serrated flange nuts or nord-lock +s/s regular nuts.
The benefits are:
1. that there is no risk of stripping the threads in the alloy crankcase
2. the nuts are removable with hand tools.
3. the studs should remain when the nuts are removed
4. the studs are removable using a good quality hex bit.
5. None of the parts will become loose with heat and vibration
6. None will corrode.
BUT ,before you order measure the full depth of the threaded hole in the crankcase plus the sump plate then add for the nuts + at least 3mm. Do NOT rely on the length of the stock rusty bolts . You will be surprised how much deeper the threaded hole is than the bolt length would indicate. Run a tap up each hole and clean it frequently to chase the threads. The Loctite is oil tolerant but dirt will damage the threads of the crankcase!
This link gives an idea of a complete kit but the stud length is incorrect?
Amazon
Amazon
I used the purple on the coil - and have to look for ones you have listed - Nord locks are awesomely good - used on axels when I raced ( never back out after that)
Tap all holes - check
Thanks for the guidance
Interesting, assuming you then use an open ended torque wrench? Did you also apply the same torque specs to the thread and the stud? What is the cost of the ARP solution?
The studs are fitted using a 3mm allen wrench.
If you use
full thread studs
:
If the threads in the crankcase are clean and you measured correctly , the stud will bottom out in the threaded hole,leaving the correct amount protruding for the sump plate. The Loctte 246 will 'set' the stud without any torque setting.You are only using a very small allen/hex wrench in your hand, so getting more than about 5Nm would be painful !. The amount of thread engagement is almost double stock because the stock bolts are so much shorter than the holes in the crankcase.So just stop when you feel the stud bottom out.Let the Loctite set on the stud/crankcase interface before you tighten the nuts later.
In theory the nuts could be tightened much more than 10 Nm but I used the Factory specs.+Loctite 294. Purple 222 is an alternative. It functions as a thread sealer to prevent corrosion and loosening vibration.There is a lot of thermal expansion/contraction/movement in this location so it is worth being particular imho.
If you use studs with an
un-threaded shoulder
somewhere in the middle of the stud:
Be very careful with measuring for the location and length of that shoulder.
If in doubt , buy a kit from reputable sources like Stomski. I just enjoyed it as a little challenge and fitted a deep sump ,so the studs were verrrry long.I used threaded rod that I cut to size
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...-deep_sump.htm
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...BOX012_pg1.htm
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
