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YOUR RESEARCHLowered 996s
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They were cleaned up and powder coated a shade of gunmetal, but I do not have any documentation as to what the color is.
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I'm running factory 18" twists with 10mm spacers on the front and 15mm (I think) on the back to get as flush as I can.
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I think key is to ask for the components used, overall drop etc.
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Suggestion
extended studs, which I 100% recommend not just for spacers, but to make wheel mounting easier.
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Suggestion
I'm running 285s on the back because I was afraid of fender rub, but I think I could go with 295s and still be fine.
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Depending on when the LN Oil cooler is ready to go, I may run Skips extension to have more oil for cooling, but will know more in a few more days with my car being at my indy and they figure out fitments.
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I searched high and low (no pun intended) but could not find a comprehensive thread with pictures of lowered 996s. I'm currently debating lowering my car at all, given I love how it rides and handles. More specifically my car is on 17s and curious if any other owners have lowered their 996 and retained the 17" wheels. Anyone have any pics of 996s lowered on 17s?
Going to start off this Lowered 996 thread with a 996 that ....isn't lowered
let's see what ya got
My not popular opinion... changing rim sizes is good if you want a more aggressive look.
lowering looks bad in my opinion. large wheel size=small tire gap that is equal all around the wheel well is ideal.
I always think the cars that have a wide gap at the front and the rear of the wheel, and then no gap at the top look bad. Just my opinion, but still....
These are 19s, and not a good side-on photo, but they look decent in my opinion. I would have left it stock, but I bought it like this.
And yes, I removed the 'S' as soon as I got it home.
There are a few �show us your 996� type threads� you could probably just peruse them and you�ll get a pretty good idea of what �lowered� looks like as compared to stock (pretty obvious). I think key is to ask for the components used, overall drop etc. 👍 here�s one to get you started�
�99 C4 - Michelin PS 4s 18� on Sport Classic II�s, KW V3, H&R 3 hole adjustable sways, adjustable drop links, adjustable coffin arms in front, Tarrett mono ball camber plates front, rear adjustable toe arms (rss), rear adjustable dog bones (rss). Overall drop, 1.75 rear 1.95 front
Here is a picture of my '99 C2 with the M030 suspension package, so about an inch lower than a standard C2. It is currently on 17in Boxster rims for winter and 18in BBS for summer. I don't know if or how you normally work on your car, but one thing I noticed with mine when I got it up on jack stands for the first time this past weekend is even with a low profile long reach jack getting mine up on 4 jack stands was tight. The top of the jack cleared the rear bumper by probably 1/2" to lift it from the rear suspension mounts, so if it was any lower I think I would have needed a really special jack.
Lowered with stock wheels usually requires spacers to make it look better. Decreasing the wheel gap accentuates the wheel offset, usually too high of an offset.
99� c2 on Ohlins coilovers with elephant racing camber plates and tarret adjustable toe links. Suspension tuned by Porsche race shop BBi in California. Rides amazing. Comfortable and handles like it�s on rails.
Set up:
Ohlins Road & Track set to GT3ish height. Went for a blend of form and function. No rubbing at full lock.
Front: 18 x 8.5" ET50 with 10mm spacers. Tires: General GMax RS 235/40/18
Rear: 18 x 11" ET60 - no spacers. Tires: General GMax RS 295/30/18
This was mostly to try and draw out pictures of 996s lowered on 17s. I have alot of experience with lowering vehicles (mostly BMWs) and know the woes that go with the territory. With the 996 I'm almost of the mind to leave it as is because it drives so damn well. But the modding bug will never let me rest.
Lots of great looking cars so far. Definitely make a compelling case for lowering AND adding 18s
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The difference in looks between lowered 996s and stock is huge. Far more aggressive and makes the car look much more sporty in my eyes. However, 17� wheels look great when not lowered but look smaller when lowered. So if you plan on lowering, I would find some 18s.
Ride with aftermarket springs and bilstein B8 shocks are almost the same as stock comfort wise.
Fair point. If anything I was thinking of going coilovers as the ability to fine tune ride quality and height is nice to have.
Also your car looks fantastic...
Not a pretty background but took picture this morning as I dropped my car off at my Indy for service.
Lowered and set up to GT3 specs.
Bilstein PSS9s
15 MM spacers
About as low as I can go with 2qt deep sump and will be adding GT3 front splitter.
Before, old stock suspension sagging 10mm below standard height
After, on Ohlins set to X74 height, 15mm below old stock sagging height
17 inch wheels, not for long...
Maybe I'm only fooling myself that I lowered it... It certainly feels lower. There are a couple of speed bumps that now give me trouble. The Ohlins are crazy good.
Maybe GT3 height after I get the 18" wheels on it.
295/30 rear 225/40 front,PSS10s,Tarrett drop links,Tarrett Camber plates,Tarrett rear toe links,Tarrett rear uper control arm links,H+R sway bar,Rss motor mounts,RssTarmac series lower control arms front and rear,Euro spec GT3 alignment.
If anyone has any leads on some nice and wide 17s I have been on the hunt.
Lowered on Reinharte R1 coilovers. You can custom order spring rates through TFworks. I have put many miles on them and they are great.
These are 19" 997 C4S wheels.
Love the way this is setup. Purposeful but subtle. Is the rear sump really that low?
lowered on 17s. Just what I was looking for. Looks great. Is there some sort of special engine in there?
[QUOTE=Sam-Son;17979677]Love the way this is setup. Purposeful but subtle. Is the rear sump really that low?
Thanks Man! Yeah, I originally set it up to be stealth track car. I didn't want to attract attention driving around town. When you first look at it you just think it's a firmly planted looking 996. Then you look closer and see the big brake kit, then the GT3 seats, harnesses and roll bar hidden in the back. Then you walk around back and see the deep sump, which was fabricated by my indy for me before 2qt Deep sump were on the market. It's a little meatier and industrial strength. Not a very good picture below which I took at night with a flashlight, but you get the idea. It's low enough that I have to be careful. But I think it looks cool hanging out the back.
Not a super special, but special enough. 3.8L Stage1 from FSI. It is a Torque Monster. This engine never stops pulling. Any speed, any revs, it will put you back in your seat. It revs up so fast, you will over run the redline before you can think. Who needs to shift when you have continuous high torque? The break-in tune limits you to 5000rpm. It is absolutely necessary. Kind of trains you. Above 5000 it revs even faster. It's a split second to 7K. A stage2 must be truly insane, I'd be driving sideways all the time. This car made me smile before, but now with this engine and the Ohlin's, its non-stop smiles. Oh, and I'm only on the 91 daily driver tune. There is only one place to get 93 here and it is currently out. When it's back in, I have the 93 daily driver tune and the 93 goin' to jail tunes to check out. I may retire just to have time to play with this car.
My wife calls it the scary car! In reality, you need to consider the reference frame. The stock 996 is the fastest most capable vehicle I�ve ever owned. So any improvement to it will have this effect. For others that have driven turbos and certainly the racers here, it is likely quite mundane. But I�ll take it!
the 19s are more like steet car stuff and the 18s are more sporty. I just like to change it up once in a while.
recently put some 295 35s on the rear and 255 35 in front. Meaty setup. Iike big sidewalls.
Dang that
is
low. Waiting to see what the UIDS looks ike once completed. Stealth performance is exactly how I like my cars.
That's awesome. Unassuming looking car otherwise (in a good way)
that looks fantastic. Like a 996 GT3 Touring
[QUOTE=Sam-Son;17981685]Dang that
is
low. Waiting to see what the UIDS looks ike once completed. Stealth performance is exactly how I like my cars.
Yeah, the deep sump did it's job well. Just like you, i am waiting on the UIDS. Depending on when the LN Oil cooler is ready to go, I may run Skips extension to have more oil for cooling, but will know more in a few more days with my car being at my indy and they figure out fitments. UIDS will save a lot of space.
I have a ton of records as well as oil analysis 2x per year or more since 2017 but unfortunately what I do not have is the receipt for the wheel refinishing done by the previous owner sometime in 2016 or 2017. They were cleaned up and powder coated a shade of gunmetal, but I do not have any documentation as to what the color is.
No. I had tried to paint them properly but had a malfunction while I was doing it. A lot of dust in friends paint booth. Pissed, I threw in car and ended up stopping at an auto parts store on my way home and just bought matte gold spray. I change my mind on things too often to
go and get powder coating.
The centers caps are actually flexi paint that I had originally put on to see if I liked. Still holding strong. Maybe I�ll fix, maybe I�ll go back to silver, maybe purple�.
Car looks great. What splitter will you be going with? I found it a little confusing when looking for a splitter based on what is available, correct, discontinued, .1, .2, etc. Interested in what you've found out there. Thx!
I went with the Demon GT3 front splitter/spoiler. $200 plus shipping.
demonspeedmotorsports.com
They also have a GT3 cup front splitter, but it hangs lower than the GT3 splitter and I want to make sure I can still drive around town.
I am looking for just a little more downforce on high speed straights to eliminate a bit of floating above 130 mph. I have found with my set-up that I can rotate the car just fine with my Guard LSD, throttle and braking thru the turns.
Aero is tricky because to much can slow you down at big, high speed tracks. You need a lot of HP to over compensate. But it can also help to provide more downforce during high speed turns allowing you to carry more speed. So over the past 20 years, I worried more about mechanical grip and rotating the car.
Interesting. I bought the cup splitter from them, all the time spent perusing their site I don't ever recall seeing the other one you referenced. The pics are really terrible, but it looks as if the "regular" splitter hangs lower than the cup splitter? I haven't installed mine yet. They both look larger than the OEM GT3 splitter that is no longer available. Really wish I could find one of those. Curious to learn about the one on @JoeZV8 's car.
OP, sorry to derail your thread.
My guess is they sold out and will have more produced. You can always give them a call and ask. My wife bought me one of the last ones they had in inventory for in early December for Xmas. Yes pictures are bad. I can always take a couple pictures of mine if you want to see them.
I don't park anything underneath it. About 10 feet to the rail. I had a lift at my old house in a single car garage. Parked my jeep under the 911. Got the lift to work on the car and to store garbage cans and snow blower underneath in winter so I don't have to go outside.
It is a direct lift.
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Well I can finally contribute to this thread...
H&R/Bilstein B8s/15mm spacer all around. Absolutely loving the setup. Ride and handling are better than stock. It's sharper and handles flatter yet somehow is more compliant..magic.
NYC has some atrocious roads so proper ride quality was a requisite
You were 100% right. This setup is pretty much all I could need. Will probably add some sways in the future. Love those OZ wheels by the way
I think you'll be happy with that set up. I have H&R springs with Bilstein B8's and RSS adjustable toe arms and love the way it handles and rides.
On 19" BBS LM. Not currently on the car and I may sell them soon.
On factory '02 5 spokes (current set up)
Here's my 2003 C4S on H&R springs and Bilstein shocks. I'm running factory 18" twists with 10mm spacers on the front and 15mm (I think) on the back to get as flush as I can. I run
@Rennline
extended studs, which I 100% recommend not just for spacers, but to make wheel mounting easier. I'm running 285s on the back because I was afraid of fender rub, but I think I could go with 295s and still be fine.
I've been focused on mechanical restoration this year, and plan some cosmetics in 2023. (Paint correction; painting wheels "white gold" or similar; side script; tartan interior inserts...)
Just got mine about a month ago, deciding on oiling upgrades at the moment... maybe track day next month! Slightly concerned with having 120k on the clock but I think with good oil and oil analysis I can stay ahead of serious problems.
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