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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHaliexpress headunit no power
Leading reported evidence
Install put some ohm lowering devices in
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The previous installed put some Ohm lowering devices in.
Leading evidence: 'Install put some ohm lowering devices in' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'switched power' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check fuses' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suspected cause
Key wire is probably the switched power from ignition switch.
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Suggestion · Original poster
The unit could be defective but before I go through the return process and waiting another month for a new unit, I wanted to check on here.
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Suggestion
This applies to the MOST based CDR-23 - Check PIN#5 on the ISO Connector A.
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15 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T093253Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I ordered and received the PCCM plus Chinese alternative. I got it all wired up and no power. My previous radio was an aftermarket unit but the wiring was still pretty much intact like factory and my old radio never didn't get power. It would occasionally crash which is why I wanted to replace it.
Does anyone know if I am doing anything wrong? The unit could be defective but before I go through the return process and waiting another month for a new unit, I wanted to check on here.
Thanks so much in advance!
yep, no lights, nothing to give me an idea that it works. I have a few unused wires and two connectors that will fit into the same female end, One likely power since it is a thick brown wire.
Any idea what the "Key" wire is. The previous installed put some Ohm lowering devices in. No clue why. I assumed it was to run 6 speakers off a 4 channel head unit.
I wish I knew a good shop to take it to. I have never been happy with any work done by an Audio install shop. I do not trust them to be careful and not scratch or break anything. Replacement parts are so costly.
Key wire is probably the switched power from ignition switch.
Easy enough to check for power. Get a meter on the power wire and see if ya got 12v. There are 2 power wires in the head.
1) is constant 12v+ power, to keep all time/settings saved and provide fast boot.
2) switched ign switch 12v+ power that actually turns on the unit...
I've seen these wires incorrectly labeled/reversed on the head unit. If the unit doesn't save your time setting switch these 2 wires around to get the proper switched/constant 12v+ where it should be.... If you want to check them use the meter to check for voltage in your 'key' wire when ign is switched on. And look for a constant 12v+ in the constant power wire even when key is off....
jmo
I tired twisting Key 1 wire to the other Key wire and nothing still turned on. I am at work but can take better photos when I am home. The front of the headunit was coming off It needed to be pushed back into place which made me concerned I have a dead unit. I hope that is not the case since I waited about a month for this unit and my entire interior is pulled apart for the install.
What is the second power wiring I am seeing? My car did have digital sound processing at one point, Im assuming its the power wire for that display. How do I know I am connecting the correct wire into the back of the new headunit, both plugs fit.
Yes I do have a meter at home. I will take pictures when I get home tonight. Really really hoping its something simple as I hate my car being taken apart enough that I cant drive it.
It's been almost 3 months so I assume OP already figured it out. But if anyone is interested, I had (probably) the same issue and was able to find out why:
If you order the version with the Bose/MOST fiber optic box, the package includes 2 almost-identical wiring harnesses. One for the Cayenne, and one for the 911/boxster. The MOST box and the cambus decoder were ALREADY CONNECTED to the Cayenne wiring harness, so I thought I was supposed to use that one. To make matters worse, the only difference between the two is that the 911 harness has 4 wires in the Power section of the 36-pin ISO plug, and the Cayenne one only has 3. It's missing the "ACC" wire - the one that signals the unit to turn on - because the Cayenne (or at least certain Cayenne trimes) use a separate connector to send that signal to the unit.
Edit (correction): Switching to the 4-wire harness won't fix the issue either. Turns out if your car has PCM 2.0 or CDR23, there is no ignition-switched 12v power source in the head unit area
. You just have to do some creative wiring to connect the ACC wire to any ignition-switched 12v cable in the car. The seller told me to check in the fuse box
I asked Rod at CAI-STORE.COM and he pointed me to this article on double din install -
https://cai-store.com/pages/911-boxs...din-conversion
In the article is the following - on how to retain full RAP (Retained Accessory Power) until the key is removed. This wire has 12v on it while the ignition is on, and retains it until the key is removed.
Here is the pertinent info from the link:
Red Key-In Accessory
This wire must be run directly to the ignition switch. Remove the heater duct under the driver's side of the dash. This duct section is easily removed, lie on the driver floor and slide the duct toward the left side of the car to disengage the inboard end-then slide it toward the middle of the car to disengage the outboard end where it connects to the short elbow leading to the left corner dash vent. This will allow better visibility and access. If you look at the back side of the ignition switch from under the dash you will find a double jacketed Orange wire. Tap into this Orange wire for accessory. This circuit will show 12 volts whenever the key is turned on and keeps power until the key is removed from the ignition cylinder.
This connection has been lengthened to reach from the radio location to the ignition switch. A 5 amp fuse and holder has been pre-installed for you.
Below: the back side of the ignition switch. Looking up from under the dash.
-Tom
The unit requires 2 12-v power sources, one is power (always on) and one is ignition (on when the car is on). This was the cause of my issue, since if u follow the installation instructions only the power wire will be connected to 12v. Try connecting another 12v wire to the "ignition" wire of the unit and see if it helps?
This applies to the MOST based CDR-23 - Check PIN#5 on the ISO Connector A. That is normally used for the antenna, but it should be switched 12V+. PIN#4 on ISO Connector A should be constant 12V+. Check with a multimeter.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
