Removing AC compressor: Not a 3rd bolt question

All, I am trying to take out the engine from my 2002 C2. I got the third bolt loosened, which was a lot easier than most of the posts I read made it out to be. The compressor is completely loose but I am not sure what it is hanging up one that won't allow it to come out. There is a bracket around the compressor that is VERY close around the compressor. It will hit when I move the compressor around. Do I still need to take out the power steering reservoir? I can't pull out the third bolt out completely either. One of the AC lines is in the way. I feel like part of the third bolt is still in the threaded stud. Any ideas/suggestions? How can I get this third bolt out completely? Do I need to removed the PS res? Thanks!

I don't think you can get the third bolt out all of the way. You need to pull it up, as you pull out the compressor. Also pretty sure you need to remove the PS Res. Every write-up I saw started with that.

One other note: Before pulling the compressor out, have a thick towel or blanket on your bumper because you will need a "place" to set the compressor aside once it is out - and it takes both hands to hold it.

I did not touch the PS when removing the A/C compressor on my '04. Maybe this differs by year? What are you working on (not your Prelude I trust)? Oops, sorry. I see now it is a 2002 C2. I don't understand why you would need to remove the reservoir. If you can take your eyes off the mouse nest, you will see the A/C compressor is gone and the PS reservoir above it is still there.

Like DB shows, the power steering reservoir needs to come out. Get a turkey baster to empty the reservoir before you twist it off. The 3rd bolt stays on the AC compressor.

Could the compressor be held up by the two fuel cooling lines attached to the assembly on the AC Compressor?

Quotes source post: 13886798

Yes, these are the correct factory steps, which I followed with success. Removing the steering fluid reservoir will give enough clearance for the conpressor to slide out.

All, Thank you so much for the responses. The PS reservior didn't need to come out. I just needed to pull down on the AC line connection that was hitting the top part of the intake manifold. I saw conflicting responses. Didn't want to break anything. I've already broken two things trying to get this engine out. :-( Thanks again. ​​​​​​​

If you run into any other issues, let me know. I just pulled my motor/trans two weeks ago, so it is still very fresh in my memory.

Quotes source post: 13889364

Good job! The reason to remove some things are so you don't break anything. Those plastic parts be brittle!

I'm about to pull my engine and tranny to send the tranny in for an LSD swap. The reason I'm pulling everything (instead of just the tranny) is because I will have 1 day to do it again after my first race of the season before I haul my car down to get the FSI engine installed. So it's mainly for the practice. I have a lift and an ATV jack I bought but the platform on the lift is only about 15" square. Is this enough? Since I don't have AC compressor, lines, or heater hoses the job should be simplified a bit. Also, what's the final verdict on whether to remove the slave cylinder prior to dropping the tranny or afterwards? Anything special to get the tranny off the engine after it's pulled out? I have the 10mm 3 square socket already.

15" square may not be enough to pick up the strongest points of the engine case but you can easily add a 2" wood plank. If memory serves, I only needed to rotate the power steering fluid reservoir after loosening the ring cap. Still need to evac the steering fluid to avoid leak. Nothing special to seperate the tranny but be prepared to support its full weight (~140lb) so it won't rest on the input shaft and bend it.