Buying first porsche (996 with aero kit), any tips/suggestions?

Edit: I'll be better off buying a c4s, theres barely any aero kit 911's for sale and I could get a single owner c4s or very well cared for one for a little bit more. Hi all, I'm targeting buying my first porsche/rear engine car this year, I previously had a 91 mr2 so this will be a big step up. I plan on setting aside $2,500 a year for maintenance and getting the ims done if it hasnt been replaced. This will be a daily driver and for joy rides through canyons and long windy roads <3. Planning on buying with cash up to 30k, so my options are the 99 with aero kit or a 2002+ c4s and I'm a sucker for the Aero kit although the wide body is beautiful. I'm looking at 99 models because of the mechanical feel. Throttle cable etc. Several on this forum had said RWD>AWD so that would be another reason. I'm very excited! We had a porsche cayenne growing up and I loved it. Here's some examples of what I would buy: These cars have way too many owners, somethings fishy. https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewDetailsFilterViewInventoryListing.action?zip=94555&showNegotiable=tr ue&sortDir=ASC&sourceContext=carGurusHomePageModel&distance=50&sortType= RECOMMENDED&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity=d404#listing=346906914/NONE https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewDetailsFilterViewInventoryListing.action?zip=94555&showNegotiable=tr ue&sortDir=ASC&sourceContext=carGurusHomePageModel&distance=50&sortType= RECOMMENDED&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity=d404#listing=347996874/NONE

You might want to check how the sills are rustwise as in 99 - 01 (I.e. 996.1) the aero sill covers used a metal strip for attachment that is just screwed on using self-tapping sheet metal screws directly into the sills...

You may want to set aside $12,500 not $2,500 as a just in case. All depends on if you can discipline yourself to do your research and buy right.

Good luck in your search -- I agree the Aero cars are handsome. That said, the 996.1 XAA cars pull a premium. If there is a $30k Aero car out there, I would budget $10K (minimum) - $15K right out of the gates to get it sorted. And then yes, $2500 - $5k year in general maintenance/upkeep. Maybe a little less if you turn your own wrenches. Not trying to be a downer, just being straight forward.

Corso is right about costs. But the 996 is worth putting the money into it. Especially of you plan on sorting it to your liking and keeping it. IMHO, If you are smart, you buy a well sorted car that has been well maintained, with all the parts replaced that need to be replaced, with long service records, good oil tests, clean bores, relatively new suspension and exhaust. You may pay 30-35k for it, but all you will need to do is add gas. If it shows good oil and bores but still needs to be sorted you can figure this as an example. $25k purchase price $10-15k engine refresh $10-15k exhaust, suspension, wheels, other refresh Total cost of unsorted car ~$45-55k If you have wrenching skills it will cost you less to get it sorted. Think about it, $45-55k for a world class sports car thats well sorted?! Seems to me a no brainer.

Quotes source post: 18630473

I plan on setting aside $2,500 yearly not one time

Quotes source post: 18630563

I prefer the realistic approach so i can step in knowing everything I need to know instead of having rose colored glasses that get ruined What would need to be done requiring 15k off the bat? I plan on buying a well kept 911 with good maintenance records and/or a ppi

Not for nothing, but I would avoid the K&N filter on that red car. Sounds good, but that is it. Lots of info on this forum about the cars and warning signs pre purchase. Watch a cold start, etc. Have fun in your search!

Quotes source post: 18630610

I may have to buy a regular carrera one owner for 30k unless I can find a sorted aero kit for 35k. For 45-55k you can get a 2010's lotus Evora. Much to think about.

Quotes source post: 18630749

I think I'd definitely want a porsche ppi. The 15k cost to get a bad 911 sorted is a lot. That or I buy a 1 owner carrera for 30-35k that needs no sorting. Tough decisions ahead.

Quotes source post: 18630851

The lotus is a great track car. I personally wouldn't drive it around town unless you want to put a full cage in it so you don't become a pancake in an accident. But yes, there is alot to think about. It's a 20+ year old car. Metal, rubber and plastic parts need to be replaced. You either find one that had a good owner and replaced them or you gotta do it yourself. Regarding aero kit, you can always put one on after you found a well sorted 996. Yep, you may be waiting for another 5 years for a well sorted aero kit car to come on the market. The great thing about the 996 is you can build it to your specs.

Quotes source post: 18630898

These aero kit 911's have 4 and 8 owners. It looks like they switch hands often. Would you call that a red flag? I think 8 owners is extremely high. This has me feeling like just getting a 1 owner carrera and putting the body kit on it or buying a 997.1 hopefully sub 35k. What would you do in my position? Any thoughts on AWD vs RWD? Some forum members say the AWD ruins the handling and is less "fun" than the RWD.

You want service records. There is a bell curve. You want a car that has been taken care of. Service records show what service, procedures and parts have been done and when. Oil test, PPI and Bore scope prove its in good shape. Plenty of good ones out there. What would I do? Well, i am a 23 year owner of a well serviced 996.2 that has enjoyed it on the track and street over its history. Can't imagine life without the 996.

FYI, take a look at @Ghost100 recent thread Build - Project-Navi. You will be able to answer alot of questions in what needs to be replaced. You should be aware that the 3.4 has different quirks than the 3.6. One in particular is the 3.4 has 5 chains versus 3 on the 3.6, resulting in am addition couple of items you need to address to bullet proof your car. You just gotta figure out which flavor is best for you. Is it the 3.4 or 3.6? Wide body or narrow? Awd or rwd. The only right answer is one that aligns with your preference. I have a 2002 996 C2. I prefer the narrow body and rwd. But I love the wide body as well. My 02 has different headlight than the 996.1. I love my headlights because they are unique. But I also love the 996.1 headlights. Keep researching the 996 and you will truly appreciate it. Cool things about it is that its classic looks can fit in with any era.

As a 99 factory Aero car owner my purchase was $30k shipped in 2020 I’ve spent probably $20k in upgrades and maintenance my car turns heads all the time even next to more expensive cars a well sorted car is worth it’s weight in gold I would only sell it to by a 996 turbo

Quotes source post: 18630749

Thanks, I read a mechanic talking about K&N filters allowing more dirt into the engine etc, forum members also say it reduces torque down low which is a no-no. I am now looking at a c4s as well since there's only 2 aero kit 996's for sale but many c4s. Of course that's a 10k premium though

Quotes source post: 18631135

That is amazing! Theres so few aeros on the market I'm doing research into the c4s. Both are extremely beautiful but the Aero looks most exotic. How much of that 20k would you say was spent on maintenance and was it a well sorted car or in need of maintenance?

Quotes source post: 18630730

If you're buying one with records and service that is up to date, you won't be paying $15k off the bat. Even with that said, addressing items preemptively adds up quick. If you need to do IMS bearing, you're going to do RMS, clutch/flywheel/pressure plate while you're in there too....that's $5k. Say it's ready for a coolant and brake fluid flush, coils, plugs, serp belt, trans fluid change....probably $2k. Then there's water pump, expansion tank, air/oil separator, motor mounts... Haven't even gotten into anything related to a suspension refresh. These are all areas that are going to need attention on a 20 year old 996. Yes, if you can check the majority of these boxes on a car that you find, then you are ahead of the curve.

Mine was a non-aero, but had the Aero front bumper. I added the side skirts and rear decks. I have 2 different "winged" decks, one a 996.1 aerokit taco spoiler and another a 996.2 GT3RS carbon fiber wing. The rear decks are simple bolt-ons.(only 4 bolts and 1 electrical connector) Find a good non-aero and add the aerokit bits.(This is NOT the cheap route though) My maintenance has been less that $2500 per year. But the mods and upgrades GREATLY exceed what my car is "worth." But since I don't ever plan to sell my car (Why the heck would I?) I don't care that I have more money in it than it's worth.

Quotes source post: 18631350

Very informative! Thank you for this writeup!

I�d say to be fair. Set aside at least 10k for stuff coming up out of the blue. Mine had the clutch, ims bearing, rms, aos, springs and struts, etc done. After owning for a little over a year, I did the motor mounts, water pump and thermostat, belts, front and rear lower control arms, light switch, ignition coils and plugs, and passenger window regulator. Like everyone else said, these cars are 20 plus years old so don�t think things won�t break or close to their service life. If 30k is your max budget then finance the 10k for the car and have the remaining 10k for just in case repairs. Also, buying a regular 911 and retrofitting the aero kit on isn�t cheap. Front bumper from Rose Passion is $2500 shipped, side skirts are $1250 shipped, and for an oem taco rear spoiler from factory is around the $7k ballpark. Used rear oem aero spoilers pop up for around $5k. Lastly, don�t forget about paint for all the items you just bought.

I bought my side skirts from Sunset Porsche during their Black Friday sale in 2018 for just $700, plus $50 shipping. I paid about the same each for my rear decks used.

Both of the cars you showed are far from original and neither has an oem aero bumper.

I�ve got two 99 Aero kits cars that will be for sale soon. Message me for details.

Quotes source post: 18631533

Since the factory aero kit 911's are so rare im looking at a c4s now. A lot more of them on the market and I'll have a better chance of finding a well maintained one

Quotes source post: 18631754

Those were just examples, Im not buying those ones. Those 2 are the only aero kit 911's I could find in America. I'm thinking I'd be better off buying a c4s since there's many more for sale and a better chance of finding a well cared for one with service records etc. Single owner as well.

Those both look like they were owned by people who played too much Need For Speed Underground as a kid.. undoing all those "mods" would be expensive and time consuming

Quotes source post: 18632349

Yea, I'm thinking about a c4s now because they are more available and for some reason these aero cars have many owners... If I can find a well kept c4s for ~35k that'll do it. There's one for sale near me but I'm not buying until end of the year, maybe the winter weather will help bring prices down.

FYI, here are maintenance and upgrade costs for my car which I have owned since 11/14. It's a 99, I've not changed the IMS bearing and really don't plan to in the near future. If it fails, I will buy a factory short block and rebuild the rest myself. Best of luck! cNeZsA4.jpg 23Rxl6L.jpg Attachment 1335864

Factory aero car = gold. Look for those 3 letters we all know and love, XAA. If it has XAD even better.

Quotes source posts: 18631885, 18631880

Here's my take. Don't get caught up in trying to find an aero car, but look for a nice clean 996 and then add the aero package. Personally, based on auction data, the average aero cars don't grab radically more at auction with the exception of the one-owner super low miles, cream puff cars that Magnus Walker would purchase. Again, find a good clean 996 that fits your budget and has the features (e.g. manual transmission) that you want. Then, when you find that car ask to have the engine inspected. Nothing worse that buying your dream car and it turn into a nightmare when you have to flip the bill for an engine replacement or rebuild. Here's a list of things to check: As far as tests, it's always wise to have a pre-purchase inspection from a Porsche shop that can run the following inspections: Engine: 1. Bore Scope inspection to rule out scoring. Listen for a ticking sound on the passenger side under the rear wheel well. 2. Manometer to rule out vacuum leaks, especially a failing AOS 3. Check coolant expansion tank for pressure and inspect coolant to rule any possible intermix 4. Drop the oil sump to inspect for metal debris or at least cut and examine the oil filter 5. With diagnostic scanner, check the following: a. Overevs - (avoid cars with excessive stage 2 overrevs) b. Readiness status - check to make sure the car's CEL hasn't been erased and it's "ready" for an emissions check c. Rough running index - to check the health of the cylinders and firing d. Camshaft deviations - to check timing and wear on the chain guides. No more than 6 degrees of deviation e. Fuel Trim 6. Examine serpentine belt for wear. 7. Listen for any usual squealing noises that could point to tensioners going bad or a component. 8. Look for fluid drips. Oil around any component. Coolant around the water pump. 9. Ask for documentation if the IMS bearing has been changed. Suspension/Brakes/Wheels: 1. Check all suspension components for looseness 2. Examine boots for ruptures on t-rods 3. Check all bushings for dry rot 4. See if anything has been swapped for aftermarket. 5. Examine wear on the rotors and brake pads. Is there a sensor pad DTC on the gauges? 6. Spin and shake the tires for noise related to wheel bearings 7. While driving turn the steering at low speed to see if strut bearing need replacement 8. Drive slowly over speed bumps and listen for squeaks or other noises 9. During test drive closely examine the alignment and if there is any vibration and shake in the steering 10 During test drive get the car up to higher speed on the freeway to see if it holds steady or feels loose. 11. During test drive, all check braking for pull in the steering and/or soft braking under heavy stops. Interior: 1. Let your inner child come out and check all the obvious (mirror lights work, shades holds, etc.) 2. Check the windows for grinding noises which is usually a faulty window regulator 3. If it's cabriolet, check the function of the top several times to make sure windows drop, and the top opens and closes without pause 4. Slightly pull on the door handle to confirm window drop works correctly. 5. Test all buttons for functionality. 6. Check radio. The first run of the MOST (PCM2 or CDR-24) were very problematic and prone to failure. 7. Check AC control. Turn on heat full blast. These AC systems were known to have blend door problems. If you don't have heat, then it may be a blend door issue. 8. Check gauges and make sure no DTC or CEL come on during test drive. 9. Check key fobs for function and walk a distance to test range. The fobs are known to fail at this age. Replacement is about $400 - $500 each. 10. Check all functions of the seats, especially is electronic positioning with heat. 11. Test the sunroof for functionality. Test one button open and close. 12. Closely examine all leather surfaces for cracks, shrinkage, etc. 13. Examine headliner. Is it drooping? Frunk/Rear deck lid: 1. Check and make sure you have a tool kit, spare, etc. If you have wheel security key lugs, you need to make sure the matching key socket is available. 2. Check frunk and deck lid interior lights 3. Examine the under the frunk bonnet for option sticker. If missing, it come mean an accident where the hood was repaired or replaced. 4. Pop the frunk/rear deck lid with FOB and button on the door seal for functionality of opening. They're electronically actuated. Lighting: 1. Check the obvious. Find a dark area and test all interior and exterior lighting. 2. The light switches are another failure point, while testing make sure the lights don't flicker. 3. With someone to help, test all brake and turn signal lighting. 4. Check the xenon HID balancing 5. Examine front headlight enclosures for oxidation 6. Examine the rear light enclosures for cracks. Security System: 1. Close all doors and click lock on the remote to arm the car. The car should double blink the amber lights. A slight honk could point to an open circuit or sensor failure. 2. Test alarm horn by arming the car and then open the driver's door with the key blade. I'm sure there are more things, but this hopefully will help you get started. All the best!

Prices for Aero parts have really gotten ridiculous over the last couple of years and a nice C4S wouldnt be a bad thing.

I had a regular C2 and kitted it out with an aerokit and I'm happy. Aerokit Mk 1's are decently rare, especially in Canada, so I didn't even bother looking for them.... I've been quite pleased. I think if you really want to use the car in all weather, then 4WD is never a bad thing. I like the RWD in my Carrera, but I don't drive it in all weather...

IMHO, the factory aerokit cars are vastly overrated by many people. With enough patience, you can find the front bumper, side skirts, and rear wing used for a fraction of the new price. That's how I bought mine. Then had a pro body shop paint to match. Now, I could understand the lure if Porsche made the Carrera aero cars higher in performance, but they didn't. Personally, they should have done a X51 performance upgrade to make them unique like the 40AE cars. I'm sure that lots of Porsche purists would argue if you want an aero car with high performance, then buy a GT3 or GT2, but no doubt, the aero kit does make the basic Carrera look sporty.

Yeah, if money isn't a limitation, you can get whatever you want, when you want it. But if you want to maximize how far your dollar goes, then have a little patience and you can find what you are looking for at a fraction of the price. Just gotta keep your network up to date and be ready to jump when it becomes available.

A well sorted car should be your goal BUT a early build factory XAA is special my car in glacier white and space grey aero car is rare enough for me and I used it with gusto find a car that had good servicing and set aside $2500 a year in incidentals plus an initial $3k service/pluses drive the wheels off of it smiling

Quotes source post: 18632401

Beautiful car!

Quotes source post: 18632854

I think if i got a c4s and added the taco spoiler id have exactly what i want. Someone said then taco spoiler costs 7k + cost of painting though!!!

Quotes source post: 18632596

True that! I live in the bay area and there's several recommended independents to get the ppi done. Ill make sure I get the bores scoped and get pictures with the ppi when the time comes. Maybe I'll post them on here before I shake hands on the deal. Thanks for this amazing writeup BTW. I'm saving this for later.

I feel compelled to chime in here since I just wrapped up the engine rebuild and am tackling the rest of the interior problems (and there are tons). This was my first ever Porsche. I had no idea what to expect other than it shared parts with the 986 Boxster so I knew I could save some money. Boy was I short-sighted. While it's true, the important parts are unique to the 911. Namely the engine. Which you should focus on first. Get a clean bill of health on that and the other stuff is minor in comparison. As far as spending goes? Here are some estimates (based on what I did). Engine (assuming no major issues): Top-end: 1500 - 2000 in parts (more like 3K when you start replacing stuff), 3K - 5K to have the heads serviced PROPERLY. Full rebuild (keeping same bore size; not sure why) 10K (starting price) Full rebuild bored out and new components -17K (that's your starting price) Transmission work - ?? Who knows until you figure out what's wrong. But a trans flush is EASY and DIY. Advice: Don't go too cheap. These cars are rock solid but are temperamental with cheap parts. It's like they know it or something. While the IMS Solution is the end-all-be-all, it's not required. You can go with the retro-fit price and save $$. Don't be scared by anyone telling you it's a temporary solution. While that's true, temporary can and will be over 50K miles (unless you track). Have your heads serviced by Hoffman. You won't regret it. If you want to bore out your engine, shop around. Word on the street is Hartech UK is standing up a shop in the US. Competition = Good Don't be shocked by all the cheap plastic. It's a sign of the times and can easily be repaired somewhat cheaply. See 986 Boxster comment above. Cabriolets are great, but plan on dropping 500 to have the rams rebuilt and every 5 or so years afterwards. Here's the order of repairs you should take: Engine, Suspension, Transmission, Interior, cosmetics. The suspension alone is worth the price of admission. After I tore out all of mine and replaced it with new stuff it was LIFE CHANGING. A rebuilt engine will also make you rethink life and might compel you to quit your job to become a race car driver. it's that awesome. Oh and I love them so much I'm looking for a Turbo. Good luck!

Quotes source post: 18633124

The full rebuild is at 200k miles I assume?

102K Florida miles.

Quotes source post: 18633067

Pretty sure a taco spoiler won't fit on C4S. Different dimensions for the deck lid. New is getting closer to $8k now ( https://www.delawareporscheparts.com...id-99651290100 ). I picked up one used last year for ~$3600.

Quotes source post: 18633198

On that website it says it'll fit on the c4s. Expensive though! Thats almost a third of the price of a c4s!

Quotes source post: 18633254

Those fitment notes are not always correct. Best off calling the dealer for confirmation. For another perspective look at Suncoast's description on the Mk2 aerokit spoiler ( https://www.suncoastparts.com/produc...290102G2X.html ): " This spoiler was intended to be used on a 2002-04 Carrera, but it will also fit a 98-01 Carrera. It comes with everything necessary to add a spoiler to a Carrera 996, this will not fit a Carrera 4S, Turbo, GT3, or GT2." Let's ignore everything with a Mezger. This Mk2 decklid fits Mk1 C2 and C4, but not C4S.

Quotes source post: 18633454

Rip. You can't have everything

TACO

Here you go. While it's not a factory taco wing, it is a replica from Getty and GT-Racing for alot cheaper. https://gettydesign.com/996tailbases...-and-spoilers/ https://www.gt-racing.com/porsche-99...cks-and-wings/

Don't forget the classic look of the PCA 996 Club Classic with the ducktail instead of the taco. RPM Technik has the perfect carbon fiber duck tail for you. You Tube

Quotes source post: 18633067

https://www.gaudinporscheparts.com/o...id-99651290100

Quotes source post: 18634279

On their website it says that it only fits the c2/c4

Quotes source post: 18634371

Looks like you need a narrow body. Take what you save from buying a C4S and build the best damn C2 ever.

Quotes source post: 18634371

That is not correct. I follow a C4S on IG with a RPM Technik Ducktail. Call them, they have great CS. Mine is a narrow body Evo.

You could buy the car without and get the OEM aerokit from suncoast. Cars with aerokits carry a premium and you may be able to save some of that buy buying the OEM kit after. That's my plan, at least.

Quotes source post: 18636748

Suncoast has the complete Mk2 aerokit for a good price. Not the case for the Mk1 aerokit.

Quotes source post: 18636830

true

Quotes source post: 18631880

Hi.. Did you ever sell these kits? Looking for a silver one preferably.

I have a 996.2 2004 Aero deck lid, fan, harness, wing, factory Porsche for sale mint 3.5 complete Take your deck lid off plug mine in four bolts one plug

Quotes source post: 19845648

I sill have the Paladio one. I sold the silver to a friend. He may be looking to get a GT3 though. PM me if you want more info when you make a few more posts.