My 3.6 to 4.0 Project

I picked up an 02 C4S in April 2014. Drive about 1000km's and that entire time I went through 5L of oil. Every once in a while I would get massive amounts of blue smoke on start up, more coming out the left hand side (Cyl 4, 5 ,6) And of course, the one that I've been seeing posted a lot here - the ticking/knocking noise that goes away after 2k rpm. I didn't use a stethoscope or a camera to figure out I had scoring, i just figured by the symptoms above that I had scoring and the quicker I accepted it, the quicker I would be back in the car. Sucks though....a lot....you save up....buy the car of your dreams and then park it after driving 1000 km's. For those that are shopping, take your time, do your home work. If the price is too good to be true - there a reason. Anyways...onto the pics. Engine out with Pelican Instructions on the TV. After reading here that the bentley manual was kind of useless, I decided not to purchase it and just use the pelican articles and help from the internet. Glad I did, those pelican articles are really well written. IMG_20150228_202509_zpsqwaapnmg.jpg Once we got the heads off, we see major carbon build up 20150301_192609_zpssyjhvajl.jpg Spark plugs: 20150301_205856_zpsmv4wvdre.jpg Cases split 20150320_195817_zps4ms8zheo.jpg Cyl 1, 2 ,3 look good: 20150309_223426_zpsrrqkopia.jpg Cyl, 4, 5 ,6.....not so much 20150309_223405_zpsu8kyrood.jpg Engine parts everywhere 20150320_195759_zpsubrjavwe.jpg I posted these on another forum and some ideas of where my scoring came from. Plastic timing chain paddles broke, and oil pick up was plugged, reducing oil pressure. even though the IMS paddle one was not the one to break on mine, I still replaced it with a LNE billet one... 20150308_205149_zps8qy5vaqt.jpg 20150308_205907_zpsohf2curr.jpg IMG_20150309_193935_zpszudqjyhj.jpg Sent them off to LNE to get the 3.6 to 4.0 job done. 20150529_165024_zpsf4zxgcxq.jpg 20150529_164842_zpsnqpo9him.jpg 20150529_164834_zpstpd0vatc.jpg 20150529_164823_zpstkfuhhop.jpg 20150529_164811_zps4vj8fbpk.jpg beauty IMG_20150528_202345_zpsj1gqaazg.jpg 20150528_164419_zpsjuosga1v.jpg Now I save up for another 3k of parts Then find someone to button this all up together.

Just to be clear, you took it apart but going to have someone else put it back together?

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if I can find a reputable engine builder in my area, yes, that's the plan. not much luck though so ive been doing tons of research on this to maybe tackle it myself. that isn't my 1st option though, I'd like someone who has done this before to do it. so far, I've gotten a lot of recommendations on people I should use in the area but when I speak to them on the phone and ask "have you ever split the engine on the NA 996 and successfully put it back together, the answer has been "no" everytime so far.

^this^... It looks like you've done pretty well so far, and it looks like you've got a fairly comfortable work area. Obviously taking an engine apart is not the same as building one...BUT, if you're diligent and very careful, it looks like you might be up to the task... It might even be a good idea to take one of Jake Raby's "enthusiast" building classes (it doesn't seem like you're in a rush, so this may be a viable option). Good Luck * also read everything you can re: the build and double/triple/quadruple check all information before commiting to procedures.

I'm pretty mechanically inclined. I've rebuilt a 4 cyl engine, installed a LSD, numerous engine and clutch swaps.... but...this is the 1st time (and hopefully last) that I spend 12k in PARTS to FIX one of my vehicles. I really, really, really only want to do this once. lol

Absolutely WOW. Engine looks amazing your have done some nice work so far. I would be interested to know if you wind up doing the rebuild yourself certainly seems like you can.

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If you talk to shops that have been in business long enough they all have horror stories of getting half finished projects that turn out to be a nightmare (missing/damaged parts, "completed" things needing to be redone, etc..). I can see a good shop that already has enough work avoiding such a job to avoid the expected complications and headaches. I agree with the prior suggestion of taking Jake's class and then finishing the job yourself.

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Isn't that part of the rush? =) I think you're fine, and there should be enough info out there to go by. Maybe in your area there is someone involved in a local PCA group who could help, or a indy shop that could give you a checklist or some assistance? For me the biggest part would be having a checklist that I could go by, so once it's all together I would be comfortable putting it in the car, and once it's in the car I'd be comfortable starting it up.

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I think it would really depend on the condition of the box of parts they get. Someone showing up with new parts that they didn't ruin would be a totally different thing and I could see a few shops in the area being open to that.

after currency conversion, flight, hotel, and tool purchase, I'd be in about another $5k to take Mr raby's course & DIY this. I'd be more than willing to hand that $5k over to a shop that can make sure I only have to do this once. well see....I'll start calling around again next month after I have all the parts. I've had a few say that yes, they will do it, that isn't the problem. my problem is finding a local shop that's done this before. I've been the guinea pig and that was quite expensive also

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Are they the right parts? Are all the parts there? Looks like this guy has done all his homework and the answer to those questions is likely to be yes. He is talking to shops that have no idea who he is, however, so I could fully understand them thinking "probably not". Even worse, because they don't know him I can also see them writing him off because of the knowledge he has with the thought that he'll be one of those customers that tries to tell them how to do their job. Not saying that it's right or wrong for shops to take that view, just pointing out that as a possibility of why he may be having trouble finding someone to take on the job.

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Lol. I could do without it.

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No he is taking a bunch of new parts to a shop and then saying "I will pay you" - and the last part being important. =) For non-Porsche engines I know a handful of shops and places around that would be more than happy to work with a person and help as needed. They would get paid, but they also understand that there are people who want to try to do things themselves and want to learn. Didn't Jake get started like that as well? But anyway, as long as you don't bring them junk or ruined parts I'm sure they would be happy to help. Porsche stuff is a little more specific but still, there are those two shops I would call and maybe a 3rd. These places support the local scene, they support racers, and I'm sure they would be more than happy to support someone who is rebuilding a engine and did some of the work themselves.

I've been and worked in this game long enough that I know what to expect. I certainly am not dropping off my new engine cases with broken timing chain paddles and used tensioners to be put back together. like I said - I only want to do this once. new chains, paddles, gaskets, orings, bolts, etc, etc is what will be in the box when it is dropped off.

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Glad to hear they have been helpful. Looks like you're doing a great job so far. If you do run into an issue, let me know as we are here to help.

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Lots of shops don't like accepting a disassembled engine that they personally didn't disassemble, and having built a few motors, i know why.

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you guys have been amazing. really...thanks a lot for all the help and guidance. I've emailed a few questions to you guys and got answers in less than 24 hours....and I haven't bought anything from you guys yet! 2 thumbs up to pelican.

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Me too. Having personally known a half dozen shop owners over the years, I've heard my fair share of stories as well.

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I agree with that, but the initial issue is obvious & the best solution is properly underway. Someone that has disassembled & succesfully rebuilt a M96 before should have no problem reassembling this engine. Awdguy I assume you are in Canada, what city?

finding a shop to take on the work is not my issue. Finding a shop that has DONE the work is though.

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This is exactly my position also. I'm handing the builder a clean slate. Someone who has put this engine together would look forward to something like this. I'm from the Ottawa, Ontario area.

I applaud the work you've done thus far. How long was the wait for LN re-sleeving? The upgrade is worth it... My 3.8 conversion has over 30,000 miles. Post a review once your back on the road.

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The only remaining enthusiast M96 102 engine rebuild school of 2015 will be held December 9-12. I no longer allow Pros to attend the enthusiast class, and vice versa. People need to learn things differently if they do this for a living, or for a hobby. The content is the same, and we still build an engine hands on, start to finish. The 4.0 bore size is the most difficult to properly assemble. The oil control rings must be set up using the 'fish scale" method, as they are a tweak to fit application. Just like file to fit top and 2nd rings, the oil control rings of the 4.0 bore size must also be manipulated. If the engine is assembled as it is, the tensions will be too great, and will result in a less than optimum operating scenario for a Nikisil engine. I go over this in the Rebuild School, and even further in my M96 103 Hi Performance Engine Class (Sept 12 &13). I developed the procedure to measure and set these tensions, as I pioneered the 101mm bore and made all the first developmental mistakes.

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just under 8 weeks.

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Just be sure that whichever builder you go with is wearing a Rolex, these engines seem to assemble better from a person wearing one. Also ask to see if they use extra soft virgin crush washers for the oil plug. If you're doing it yourself rather than spend the money on Jakes classes buy another "garage" Rolex, since you wouldn't want to get your daily one dirty.

How much power do you expect with the 4.0? I will be following the build.

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Rolex's are for posers. timex is where it's at.

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Jake has posted a 3.8-4.0 before IIRC but not exactly the same thing but gives you an idea... https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post12229792

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No clue, I went with it because it was the same price. after reading jake's posts, I'm wondering if that was smart. I will be happy with anything over 300 whp

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Just wait!

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The biggest thing you'll gain is low end torque and quite a bit of power/tq "under the curve" where it really counts. I wouldn't really sweat any peak power numbers unless you wanna go mainly for bragging rights.

Yeah, that's what i figured with the added displacement. the car, in its scored cylinder state, was plenty fast for me so I'm sure I'll be happy either way.

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That powerband looks very nice. Does the 4.0 use the stock cams?

VEry nice, I would do it myself too... Quick question, dont you think those cylinder walls are too thin?

Why not just have Jake put it together for you? That's the big elephant in the room and now you have it.

Cause Jake takes like over a year to assemble a motor.

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from what I've read and understand jake doesn't do that kind of stuff. I would need to send the entire car to him. can't afford that.

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I wouldn't know. I'm sure LNE know what they are doing though.

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Well I would think they wouldn't produce that kind of product and market it if it wasn't tested and wasn't "ok" - or give notice if it was prone to failures. Especially on engines these expensive. IMO

my opinion as well!

What does the other side of the block looks like (the head mating surface side)?

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Probably sleeved for the 4.0.

It doesn't take us 1 year to build an engine. The processes take 4 months; we need someone's car for 4 months. I maintain a 10-14 month backlog and turnaround time. Those doing an elective build are without their cars for 4 months, those with failures are without them for the duration of my backlog period. I will not rush. We will not accept payments and charge people extra for an expedited build, because you can only rush failure, not success. One pair of hands and one mind does the entire project here, from extraction to disassembly, to evaluation and machining and balancing all the way through reassembly, re installation and testing. Only after a vehicle is running again does a second person enter the equation. I do not accept engines that come to me disassembled. I do not accept engines without their vehicles. I do extend 100% free engine extraction and installation to every customer in exchange for them shipping their car to me. This is why I have vehicles here from 28 states right now. I operate like this for everyone's benefit. Especially the guy who had an aftermarket bumper that would have killed my engine, because it led to 25 degree hotter coolant temps than it should have. The same goes for the guy with a failing fuel pump that took out his old engine (leaned out and detonated to death) and would have taken out mine, had I not had the car and tested the whole equation. I found those, and countless other gripes only because I personally evaluate these vehicles and give them a work out on the street and the dyno. One missed step in this industry costs someone their entire reputation. I trust no one else to install and fire my engines up the first time. Doing this costs me a lot of money every year, but I don't care. It's required. I can't blame anything on anyone, if we have a failure. We do it all, everytime, and that's why we don't have failures. In testing I have complications all the time, and that's normal and expected. We solve those before a car ships. Last week I tested 5 cars, of those, 3 had gripes, one had to come back apart and 1 was perfect. Fast forward to today and all the gripes are solved and 3 of the cars are already home. The one that had to come back apart is back together and I'll test it on Monday. Now, I just needed to say those things, because of the recommendations that others had made. This thread isn't about me, it's about the person who wants to build a 4.0 properly. Bigger is seldom better. To feed the 101 bore requires some serious port work. Without doing this work the power range is narrowed a great deal. The same goes for camshafts, if you keep stock cams, the alteration of their timing set up is required to optimize the power band and broaden it. To do this the reluctor wheels on the cams must be removed and rephased also. If you go too far, you'll make less power than stock, or crash valves to Pistons. Better yet, the ECU will throw you to limp mode because it thinks the cam timing is off and out of range.. Yes you could just bolt it together. Lots do. The devil is in the details and the bigger it is, the more the details equal the big picture. With a 4.0 I usually net 325-360 at the wheels on my dyno jet. Once other people could build a 4.0 I abandoned its further development and left it where it was power wise. With my 4.1 we've finally broken into the low 400s for wheel HP, but my destroker 3.6 isn't far behind. 4.4 is now where I have gone, but the only way to feed it is with CNC heads. Everything is dependent upon everything else. Going bigger because it costs the same isn't accurate, because that may apply to the displacement, but it damn sure doesn't apply to the assembly and component selection/ set up differences. Yes, I have a two day class that tells you part for part what to do and how to build that combo. There are many ways to skin a cat, but doe are better than others.

hmm mm. ... that isn't the information I got when I asked about my heads/cams with a 4.0 block. I was told that it would be pretty much plug and play. after reading your post, does not sound like that at all. I have emails here from LNE saying the ECU will handle the change in displacement and I won't require mods to my heads/cams for this up in displacement. sounds like I should find someone who can tune this now once it is buttoned back together. fun, fun. I'll be signing up for the September course...

No, you received the correct info. The engine will run and won't throw CEL or give any electronic issues. It will not be optimized, unless it is built from a well rounded point of view. You do not HAVE to do the head work, or cam work, unless you want to see the true benefits of all the added displacement. I am less on "tuning" of an ECU than I am the other mechanicals of the work. The ECU tune depends on what all the other items inside dictate. The biggest mechanical challenge to assembling the 101 bore comes from the fish scale setting of the oil ring tension. Thats the only item that will dictate an end result. Remember, all these items are set up for pro installation, but don't feel bad, most pros don't know how to fish scale, either. Yes, this is exactly what I go over in the M96/ M97 Performance Class, along with Charles Navarro from LN, and other industry specialists that are speakers in the class, on the topics of cylinder heads, ECU Tuning, and even engine oil. Size alone dictates nothing.

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Definitely get a tune with the 4.0, take advantage of the extra displacement. While they may not be needed, adding bigger cams and porting the heads is easier to do while the engine is apart. They are those "while you're in there" type upgrades . . . and how my STi's blown ringland turned into $10k+ engine build.

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Well, and it's not only well you're in there but the bigger displacement may/will demand it. Maybe it's my hangover but wouldn't running a shot of nitrous also take advantage of that extra space?

I got a feeling that it 's gotten a whole lot more expensive for AWDGuy. I hope he's able to keep and enjoy the car for many years after it's running again.

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Well there is putting it together as a nice running engine, which is very possible, and there is tuning it to take advantage of the new displacement which also is possible but more expensive. Not saying one is better than the other, but may as well try and get the most out of it or at least more out of it than it otherwise would have been stock. So my vote is to have someone who is dangerous look at the heads and help with rings.

Too bad the brand new factory crate 3.6 classified listing wasn't around when OP was in the decision making phase. $18k seems like a bargain these days considering Porsche is no longer selling the full long blocks and considering that is $18k OTD with no core required. He could've been running in no time with this option. https://rennlist.com/forums/parts-ma...ate-motor.html

that option was around when I was looking. 18kusd is more like 25k CND. I didn't even pay that for the car. so far I'm about 9k cdn in. probably another 5-6k to go. I'm sticking to my original plan.

I too would rather build a motor than buy another stocker.

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those engines are not stockers though. believe they are rebuilds with proper sleeves and pistons, lower thermostat, etc. if the price wasn't more than the car, I would have seriously considered it. I looked at juSt replacing the engine with a stocker off of eBay but I have no gurantee I wouldnt be doing this all over again. with my luck with cars, it's pretty much guranteed to bite me in the a$$

We were just as busy back when crate engines were being sold new.. Back in the old days my engines were 15-18K and a new crate engine was 7-9K. More than enough people wanted the hand built, fully optimized version that was double, or sometimes triple the cost. Its happening again today, as we supply my 4.2 and 4.4 for the 9a1 cars that are as new as 2014. People can buy a brand new crate engine for the new cars, or buy a hand built, fully optimized version. The OP is looking for 300WHP, if he bolts this engine together as a 4.0 he will get close to that. While "I am in there" I do everything I can. Overkill is just barely enough.

honestly....I could care less about power. I want to be back driving this thing. I want it to be reliable. I miss it a lot. I feel a tear down my cheek everytime I see it hovering in my garage. I use the same approach with all my car projects. get the car running reliably, then work on getting more power out of it. my projects are successful for the most part. I'm changing everything I can afford. everything that can be replaced is being replaced. I don't feel like I am taking shortcuts with this. I get that I should upgrade the head cams and all that while it's out but I don't have the funds for it, I've been told by the manufacturer it isn't needed and a divorce isnt in the cards

In that case, buy a fish scale and learn how to use it for oil ring tension settings and bolt it together.

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it's all I've been reading about. my wife was asking me why I was looking at fish scales on the net last night. lmao and still reading. I'll pm you my questions as they come.

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I don't get it. If funds are an issue, why would you go to a 4.0L anyway? You could have done a nice nickies 3.6 with a fully optimized package that would likely perform better and last longer than a compromise 4.0.

3.6 or 4.0, same price. $4600 and after a coversation with the manufacturer and them confirming it will not require any supporting mods, & run fine, why not?

You can do it with an alternative method, using a bathroom type scale. It's easier and more accurate for a newbie.

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ok...thanks jake. I'll bug you more once I have all of my parts. ..should be around the time your course in September gets going (from what I see on LNE's site)

alright, waiting for some bolts, but I think I am going to get started on the bearing case. one thing I noticed is there seems to be a lot of "side to side" play in the IMS bearing. I'll take a video of it tonight but it doesn't feel right to me. wold anyone know what the part # for the apr lube used for the main bearings assembly, is it the same stuff for the rod bearings? comp cams assembly lube will work?

i think i captured the play in the vid, its not much but i would think there shouldn't be any. Porsche 996 3.6 IMSB - YouTube

You are looking for the lube for the bolts or the bearings?

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I got it taken care of, thanks. got someone at my parts store to help me out. any feedback on the video folks? should there be any play in that bearing?

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Factory bearing or replacement? Seals still in place (if it is the factory)? I'm no expert, but that doesn't seem right. Since it's already apart why is there any question vs just replacing it? Or is this a fresh bearing? At least comparing to my recently removed dual row (70k) there was zero play until I pulled the seals and cleaned it out. Now it has about the same play that yours shows until I put the seals back on. I have no idea what the difference of a single row would be though.

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it's a fresh bearing with less than 10k km on it. I believe it's an LNE unit. I'll need to check the previous owners receipts but iirc, it's an LNE unit.

No idea. A call to LNE would probably be your quickest answer. I know it's just money ( ), but since it's not a fresh bearing why not just toss it and start fresh? Since you're already down that far it would seem silly to me to leave a used IMSB in there as you start to build it back up. Even when it doesn't have many miles on it, but especially if you aren't 100% sure about it's origins or current state. Maybe move to the Solution instead of the plain bearing?

this has less than 6k miles on it, was installed before I purchased it last year.

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The flange is acting like a lever, and making the play be more visible. If the bearing is dry of oil, it will have some play. If in doubt, have it evaluated. If there's wear, you should see spalling on the outer race, between the *****. Inspect a full 360 degrees. If the engine it came from suffered debris issues, it will be worn, and must be replaced.

thanks for looking, jake. got similar responses elsewhere.

Bore is 3.9763 Were using the numbers from JE pistons in between the High performance strip & Moderate street use/turbo for our calculations. Top ring .0046 for a gap of 0.01829 2nd Ring .0051 for a gap of 0.02028 oil ring will be gapped to 0.016. Once filed down and gapped, I'll start performing the cylinder pulls with a fish scale to see what kind of resistance I get. Jake gave me the numbers to look for on the fish scale, so I'm hoping Im not too far off with my calculations, but I guess the pulls will tell us the story.

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Thanks for the useful info and glad too see you're starting the reassembly process. So say after fish scaling, you found the rings are too tight. Does that mean you will need to go for smaller rings?

I'm really not sure, I'd be going to Jake for advice then. I guess we'll know more once the pulls are done. hopefully in the next couple of weeks. between the business, the family/kids, spare time is used for sleeping these days....

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I can definitely relate to your comment on time/life. Regarding the rings, I would think the ring tension is independent of the ring gap and the tension can't be adjusted. It seems going for a different size is the only way? Fun stuff...

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obviously, what I am hoping for is my assumptions on which value to use in my calculations are correct, I gap the rings, install on pistons and when I pull I see the numbers Jake gave me. with my affection of muphys law, that won't happen....and you only get the amount of rings you need. no spares. we'll see....I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the pulls show the numbers I want to see. will try and document with pictures and video.

The drag adjustment is done on the oil control ring set.

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so - install the oil control ring set only, then do my pulls?

The oil ring is all you are concerned with for these tests.

Thanks Guys. Jake - haven't been able to find any fish scale pulling videos on YouTube...so i'll make my own for the next sucker doing this.

Found one interesting article here http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2011...ct-horsepower/ "Of the three rings in a typical ring pack, the oil ring accounts for 60 to 70 percent of the total friction created by the rings. Reducing ring friction by using smaller, thinner low tension rings can allow you to �find� horsepower that was previously lost. Low tension rings reduce friction and allow an engine to produce more usable horsepower." �Years ago, most standard oil rings generated about 21.5 lbs. of tension. Today�s thinner rings, by comparison, are down about 7 to 8 lbs., or about one third of what they used to be.�

thanks a lot. I'm really going to owe you guys a lot of pints. I found this video about fish scale pulling: https://youtu.be/sNjwDV0D_co since the wrist pin clips are 1 time use, I am assuming I can just put the wrist pin in, not put the clips in and pull the cylinder and rod that way. Monday night! should begin the pulls and maybe get the bearing case together. ..

No retaining clips are needed to hold the pins in the pistons during this procedure. Just ensure they do not contact the cylinder.

alright, thanks Jake.

reviewing my list of parts and realized I am missing the oil pump housing. when I removed mine, one of the flanges broke. can't believe how soft this metal is. would the housing from a 3.4 fit the 3.6 motor? all I see on ebay are housing units from a 3.4 something like this: http://m.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-911-996-Boxster-Engine-Oil-Pump-Bracket-99610701258-/151444972807?nav=SEARCH

Pelican parts catalog says they're interchangeable. http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...07-012-61-M100

did the pulls last night. we preformed 3 pulls per cylinder, just to make sure our numbers were consistent. we were in the range of what Jake provided to me so I'm happy. Now we can begin the assembly. I took a video of 1 of the pulls but haven't uploaded it yet.

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Great. We have worked with LN for a few years now to get these closer to perfect out of the box. I have seen them as much as 16# out of the box when we built the first 101 bore test engines. We usually have to adjust a couple of rings, so test all 6 in their respective cylinders before you call them good. Now you see why it's takes as long as it does for us to build these engines!

That's what we did Jake. labeled each set of rings with its respective cylinder/piston and did the pulls for each one it was going in. they were all within 2 pounds of eachother. we have 6 hours in now, and we got the rings gapped and tensions confirmed. hell yeah I have a new appreciation for this. I promiss to get some vids and pics up soon. text is boring.

Can't wait for your pics and vids. Btw, any mods needed for the throttle body, injectors and DME tune? Or the stock ones will be fine?

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I think if you go to the beginning of this thread, it depends on who's answering that question; ) it's been discussed. I was told by LNE that no supporting mods are needed. at the minimum, I will get a tune done. I wish I could afford more...but I do love my wife, AND my life. ha!

Oh yea, I remember now

very short vid of the 1 of many pulls with a fish scale https://youtu.be/GgRwUGCEIPM crankshaft, bearing case polished and cleaned up by the local machine shop. they also performed all the balancing. new coated OE main bearings from LNE, new OE thrust washers, ARP hardware. IMG_8891_zpshh0cqjrc.jpg IMG_8892_zps0edpq3gt.jpg Everything is so clean. IMG_8894_zpszsbqr3ry.jpg IMG_8893_zpsca2ba1d4.jpg 2nd most expensive set of bolts Ive ever bought IMG_8895_zpsjzxs7gz7.jpg Main bearings pressed in. IMG_8896_zpsl7fuipj7.jpg IMG_8898_zpsmkoupkic.jpg thrust washers installed, these have grooves in them and it is important they face out. One on each side: added engine assembly lube to the bearings and washers, and dropping the crankshaft in: IMG_8903_zpsglxchkgn.jpg Make sure those washers didn't budge as they just float in the groove IMG_8905_zpssq49ydld.jpg IMG_8907_zpszih8ohie.jpg measure the thrust: IMG_8908_zpsvrqupuit.jpg Smooth as butter: IMG_8910_zpsozpxz5iv.jpg add arp bolts and torqued per their recommendations IMG_8912_zpswsxd2uye.jpg not pictured - oil scraper installed with new gaskets and bolts. wrapped back up in plastic and put away until next week....

Nice work. I'm just a little further than you. Have 3 con rod's attached to the crank. Agree, those ARP bolts are stupid expensive. Had to wait for mine 8 weeks and it was around $350CDN. Did you have the crankshaft polished? From the pictures it doesn't look like it was done. Edit: Sorry I mixed those up with the con Rod bolts.

yup, journals were polished on the crankshaft. what you see is streaks from the engine assembly lube when I turned it in the half bearing case. do you have a thread?

Yes I do but it's on a different site where I don't need to pay to post pictures. http://reutterwerk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42947 Currently I'm fixing a fellow RL's 928 but as soon as I'm done with it, the 996 project is restarting.

Just a comment on the thrust bearings. It's amazing how minimalistic they are. Normally they are part of the main bearing and go all the way around the crank. The 996 essentially only has half the amount of thrust bearing surface area as other "more normal" engines. The power of the bean counters certainly come through here. The other unique thing about 996 engine parts is that they sell the main and connecting Rod bearings individualy and not in pairs. Who the hell would buy just a half a bearing? Very bizarre. Maybe it's a Porsche thing.

I'll join later...need to be a member to see the pics.

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Insure you don't get a early housing with 3 mounting points instead of the improved 4 mounting points.

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Sorry I didn't realise that. However signing up is the same as here, very simple. The site is actually owned by the original owner of Rennlist.

Any updates AWD?

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Charles at LNE saw my thread and was nice enough to offer me some stuff I couldn't refuse. so while I wait for the parts to get to him, I sent my IMS shaft and bearing to LNE for an inspection. once I get the parts in, I can continue with the build, but with the holidays and another baby on the way, updates will be sparse. I promiss to post here when I do make progress though. slowly but surely.

I would imagine he is going to pin the shaft for you. but you may want to double check with him.

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Weird, I've been able to post pictures no problem as a free loader.

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were doing an exchange on the shaft.

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Don't worry, you will hit the limit soon enough and then you need to either delete existing pictures from threads you already posted or link them from another site. I used to be a paying member (back when I first took the 996 engine apart) it was a well documented project but when my membership expired, I was not able to post any on here unless it was linked from another site and I'm not going to do that.

I miss the old days when a shot of Marvel Mystery Oil would fix anything. Great thread. Anxiously awaiting the successful conclusion. Well done!

The guys at LNE are A frigging + Charles contacted me and asked if it was too late to send me new rings they had for the 4.0. Free of charge...how could I say no? small delay in the project, but there's no hard schedule to this build so no big deal. I sent in my my IMS shaft with LNE bearing for an inspection while LNE waited for the rings to come in. I was expecting to get my LNE bearing back installed on an exchanged IMS. they sent me a brand new single row IMSB installed in a really clean looking IMS. looks brand new. These new rings are gapless. that introduces another delay...I gotta go read all about these rings. ha!

Given the level you have gone to here, what is the reasoning behind staying with the ceramic bearing vs going to the Solution? Seems like for this much effort and love the Solution would be the logic choice no?

money

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Fair enough. It's always easier to spend someone else's money

haha...yep. this was free. the recommendation is these be replaced at 50 000 miles. that's 10 years of driving for me.

He can update to an IMS Solution at any time, too.

New rings are gapped. had a small heart attack Saturday night as when I went to verify the gap on the oil control rings, I was seeing a gap of .026 on most of the rings. my old set was gapped at .016 so I was thinking I got the wrong set. Charles confirmed this is how they are from the manufacturer so I'm good. i'll double check tensions this week by doing the cylinder pulls with the fish scale. Hopefully get the rods in the bearing carrier this week....maybe have cyl 1, 2, 3 by the end of the weekend....will also begin indexing the tools for cyl 4, 5, & 6 so will hopefully have another huge round of pics for you guys.

report came back on my LNE bearing...figured some would be interested in this. the play...the new bearing doesn't have the play you see in the video posted earlier in this thread. there's pretty much 0 play when compared to that video, but apprently still "in spec" according to the comments. pretty neat.

Sounds like a Blackstone oil report! Pretty cool they sent that info to you. I suppose since it's in spec that it could have been like that when it was installed. Cool that they sent you the new bearing anyway so that there isn't any concern.

yes, VERY cool of LNE to do that.

Need some help. Trying to find the part # for the washer that goes behind the cclip on the LNE IMS tensioner paddle. Heres a picture form lograys build thread: Also need the part#'s for the bolts to attach the plastic guide...left plastic guide in this pic: Also note that pelican lists a timing chain part # 996-105-171-55-INT as fitting the 3.6 C4S. It doesn't. I need to get part # 996-105-171-58-M100 at 4 times the price. yay. Another delay...was hoping I could get drop the bearing case in last night and do cyl 1,2 ,3....but I'll have to wait.

also as an FYI; re-did the cyl pulls with the new oil controls. everything was within 10 & 14 pounds

Looks like part #20 and #23 here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=103-10 This page also shows the correct timing chain.

Perfect & bookmarked

looking at that I must of got the chain for up to '00...ordered the right one from the dealer and should be here early next week....was hoping I could get se wrench time in this weekend as my wife is gone with the kids so it's perfect timing....maybe install rods 4 5 6, and get case for 1 2 3 mounted on the stand...

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Yes and for your car, the -156 has been superseded by -158 so 99610517158 should be good for your engine.

New chains and guide in. LNE billet paddle replacing the oem one. 20160203_195446_zpsxjkn7mr4.jpg 20160203_195457_zpsrx2wvt11.jpg rods 4 5 6 installed, torqued to spec, APR bolts used. 20160203_200923_zpsmuk4lylx.jpg 20160203_195513_zpsurwvv20r.jpg Those wrist Clip pins...no human can put those in by hand. you need the tool. my friend came up with a good idea. using the tool and and old wrist pin, we figure out a really easy way to install these things. pinch the clip on the sides just enough to get it in the tool: 20160203_215159_zpsfxrc8pbe.jpg push it down to the side 20160203_215207_zpszfn7hmmd.jpg slide an old wrist pin in 20160203_215214_zpsqo5gpudx.jpg walk over to your vice and use it to compress the wrist Clip pin straight. 20160203_215233_zpsmnrtnnpr.jpg 20160203_215249_zpsi45qr9gg.jpg should look like this 20160203_215301_zpsrjxboo26.jpg insert the tool all the way and give the old wrist Clip a good tap with a mallet. 20160203_220257_zpszjgkhp7q.jpg worked like a charm. 20160203_215452_zpsrfgcet1i.jpg 20160203_215434_zpssy0e6g6m.jpg 20160203_215425_zpst5m2i2ne.jpg 20160203_215338_zpscoxtbtlw.jpg rods and pistons are assembled for insertion to 1 2 3 this weekend. got next Wednesday night free, hoping to get 4 5 6 done then.

Nice! What method you uses to tighten the arp bolts? Torque + angle or stretch gauge? Keep the photos coming!

torque + angle guauge

got a case on the stand, starting to feel like progress is being made now. parts boxes are being emptied and thrown away, woohoo! cylinders & rods for 1 2 3 in, my friend will be over Wednesday to help drop in the bearing case, torque rod caps, then mate 4 5 6 case and begin blind piston install... 20160207_193455_zpsliciw1jk.jpg 20160207_192346_zpsb1te0nm8.jpg 20160207_192355_zps6tiwlb8z.jpg

Looking good! Remember to remove the IMSB flange before dropping the carrier assembly into the case. The book tells you to have this in place, but thats another one of the things that the book complicates during assembly. Its the little tricks that count.

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Beautiful! Wish we don't have smog test issues here in So Cal. Would love to try a performance build.

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Jake, is your engine rebuild book still on schedule deputing in March? Does it cover any performance mods like this build?

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oh...ok...thx Jake, tbh we were going to keep it there. thanks for the heads up keep em coming

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When rustling with the 87 pound carrier assembly, you don't want anything else to complicate the process.

Yeah, for sure.

starting to really look like an engine. didn't get cyl 4 5 6 done but still managed to get the case on. it was 11pm by the time we finsihed all of this, we need fresh minds and hands for the next part (4 5 6 cyl install) getting ready to drop the case...clean, install bearings, more assembly lube. 20160210_203724_zpsvas3erla.jpg bearing case dropped in, insert dowels and apply drei bond. drei bond was applied following Porsche guidelines. this is from the factory manual....can't post a pic due to copyright stuff but hopefully you can see the stuff and where Porsche recommends it goes. Make sure youre putting the dowels in the right spot, some dowels are solid, some are hollowed out to allow a bolt to go through them. 20160210_220849_zpsqrycyd2d.jpg 20160210_221035_zpsp0yi6mka.jpg 20160210_221813_zpsbqukyjj7.jpg 20160210_221041_zpsnlcpbgm9.jpg 20160210_221822_zpscskjhlts.jpg 20160210_221826_zpsyez49xa3.jpg and drop the other case on top, tap it down with a mallet and torque the bolts down to seal everything up. torqued to spec and in sequence as per Porsche manual. 20160210_223622_zpsysfwl6fa.jpg 20160210_223632_zpswu6ddbl4.jpg 20160210_224409_zpsbwhs4rpp.jpg and real fun begins next week... 20160210_224356_zpsq4hjw3qr.jpg

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Thanks for posting, I pretty much check for updates every day on your build. What't the significance of the plug that says "void if removed"?

I assume that's for LNE, incase there's issues with their work and be able to tell very quickly if it's their case being used....

Looking good!

Ahsai inspired me and I decided to take apart the scavenger pumps to see if I could reuse them as their $600 CDN/each....ouch. they look good. they don't look like aNY thing Ahsai posted of his bad one. looks like normal wear and tear and I'll probably reuse them. I had some significant scoring but I am wondering where that debris went. the journals on the valve covers and crankshaft are in great shape, IMS bearing report came back with positive results...I still haven't cut open the oil filter so maybe that will give me some clues... bank 1 20160213_202635_zpshujlrqpz.jpg 20160213_202608_zpsjcxvesgs.jpg bank 2 20160213_194114_zpscnxvlpau.jpg 20160213_194050_zpsuyf4twaj.jpg 20160213_193059_zpsiws4ck9e.jpg question for the building pros...are these scavenger pumps sealed with dreibond or something similar? you see the residue I removed...this was on both of them and was easily removed with kimi wipes 20160213_192954_zpsflueaqpf.jpg

whole bunch of emotions. 20160217_200113_zps9i7smqq6.jpg pretty much followed whats out there already. we hung the case upside down to have gravity assist us with the install. then you use the special tool to insert the wrist pin. the porsche tools were indexed when the cases were split. we installed each cylinder then and marked the tool with the sharpie. this way we knew the insert tool was set all the way into the piston and ready to insert the punch to hammer in the wrist Clip. 20160217_205729_zpsiv55zfzv.jpg we checked each insertion with my scope camera to triple check everything. IMG_20160217_221027_zpskmwzvime.jpg can do a little happy dance. now to find an oil pump housing, get a bunch of gaskets, install the internal aos's, new pick up tube and.... the wrist pins gave us more issues than the clips. the pins needed a little help getting in properly. the wrist pin Clips....they make this noise when they go in properly. it's such a sweet sound. you know you got it right.

Sweet! Pistons and nickies so shinny

Ouch.. You followed the factory manual on assembling bank 1 pistons and rod BEFORE the carrier assembly. You REALLY should have attended my class, man I could have saved you hours and several headaches! There's more than one way to do this, and that book creates issues. Good progress, anyway, though!

sorry, not following Jake. bearing case assembly was assembled before any rods or pistons touched it. cylinders 1 2 3 were done after dropping the case in. we followed the instructions on your site and only used the porsche manual when we needed better diagrams. took us 3 hours yesterday to install the rings on the pistons, and install the pistons to the rods properly. I don't think that's bad at all for a newb taking his time.

Keep going man. Keep up the good work. Subscribed.

ouch.... $660 for primary oil pump. gonna be a while before you guys see any major updates me thinks...

Have you noticed any collateral damage in other areas of the engine as a result of the breakdown of the cylinder wall material circulating through the oil?

I looked, couldn't find anything. IMS bearing report came back from LNE as being in great shape. Rod bearings had some hot spots but nothing that looked severe. if you look at my spark plug mug shot picture and if you saw the spark plugs chamber, it looks like the debris just got pushed up in that chamber. when I pulled sparks plugs 4 and 6, they were littered in oil and metal chunks yet the filter that I cut open last week was relatively clean of debris. either way, anywhere oil has travelled is getting replaced or ultra sonic cleaned. head bolts are back ordered at my dealer.....3 weeks going to be a while until you guys see an update here

No need to get them from the dealer.. Every head bolt I have seen other than ARP has been genuine. Pelican probably has them in stock.

They do but the dealer is cheaper after converting our dollar and including shipping from pelican. 3 week delay is perfect timing actually as there will be a new addition to my family any day now (wife is going on day 6 of being overdue)

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I feel your pain 'cause I need a new one as well - US$450 Wow, I'd better start ordering my 3-page long parts from sunset soon. Congrats! You're doing an engine rebuild while your wife is almost delivering? Props to you and your wife

You might want to wait till July.

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Oh wow, is that what I think it is (what you mentioned in the engine rebuild class)? Will PM you

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haha, why do you think I only get to work on it for 4 hours a week?

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The guys doing this might use you as a beta tester.. Email Charles at LN, not me :-)

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What is the reason for replacing the primary oil pump? Have you looked for a good used one?

I broke it when removing it. can't find a used one with the same part# so I ordered a new one.

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Nice. Engine rebuild with one knocking on the door. I was offroading 2 days before we had our little one. Rock on.

always wished i had the mechanical experience and tools to rebuild an engine anyone have any idea what the cost is for all the tools necessary to rebuild a 996 engine? just tools not machining or parts costs.

I've spent about $500 on the wrist Clip pin insertion tool and the cam hold down/timing tools. still needs special tools for RMS, second set of timing tools to lock down the other bank and thermostat removal tool....

Believe it or not, you only need a few special tools: - Wrist pin clip insertion and timing kit ($350 made in Taiwan with good quality. Not to be confused with made in China). This kit already include the TDC and cam holding tools. - Variocam intake actuator removal and installation tool ($85) - Simple RMS installation tool ($60 basically a piece of round delrin machined into the proper shape and installation depth) All these are spare change compared to the Porsche parts, which is what kill you. Of course best would be to take Jake's engine rebuild class as well to remove most if not all anxiety

how did you pull out the oem thermostat?

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I have not done that but think I would just use a pipe and cut two slots. Or you can buy the tool from LN for $15 or so?

Yeah. ..I'll get it when I buy the spin on filter.

got more parts in, including the oil pump and we were going to get those on when we noticed a diagram in the Porsche manual by accident. the diagram was of the bearing case assembly and my mechanic friend noticed dowels that we didn't think we put in. 2 of them. so we had to split the cases tonight and go back a few steps. pretty bummed as I was hoping to get the heads on tonight - but it is what it is. everything was pulled out and cleaned. dowels installed and everything sealed up again.... I sent an email to LNE for new wrist clips as I'll need to do 4-5-6 again. good news is we confirmed we did it right the 1st time. lol. wrist Clip insertion 20160316_202800_zpsgion0ezc.jpg the dowels we forgot... 20160316_211618_zpstovb9t7i.jpg 20160316_211556_zpsjgvmylgv.jpg

Ouch... But a good save to catch that. Those dowels locate everything in associating with carrier alignment to the case halves. Yes, I have specific content about these in the hands on class, and if you follow my guide from the class, you can't leave these out unless you try to! :-) Do you have the other case alignment dowels in place that index the case halves to each other?

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Jake, you wanna know the kicker? I actually have a note in my "build book" from your online class - make sure you know where the dowels go. Both you and Tony mentioned it so I wrote it down. f%$k me. ah well. we're back to 4-5-6 install now. and yeah, we had the dowels for the cases in.

Are these two dowels both on the bank 1 case? I have two but those are solid.

yes, I drilled mine out to pull them out as they were stuck in there good. LNE instructions required all dowels removed from cases.

No, what I meant was the same two dowels I have are solid dowels, not hollow like yours. Are you sure yours were hollow before?

I hollowed them out to pull the dowels when I originally split the case last year they are hollowed out 50% of the way and threaded so I could put a bolt in to get a good pull to remove it

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Got it. No wonder they have threads inside haha Bummer you have to split the case but it's just more time and no harm is done. Jake did take the time to remind us about the dowels multiple times during assembly. They are easy to miss.

back to where we were. got cyl 4 5 6 done last night. much more confident the 2nd time around. lol. still did a little prayer to the porsche gods though.... With easter weekend coming, and most parts in now, I am hoping I can get quite a bit done... It's recommended I use dreibond around the chain boxes portion of the head gaskets, should that be applied to both sides of the gasket?

re: dowels for the heads...I am looking at the pics on auto Atlanta and they aren't quite clear to me on how many and where they go, Ahsai, can you tell me where these things go? I took a look at my old pics too and I can't see anything in them...

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Will need to check my photos and get back to you.

Two dowels per head. Fit them to the block first. Make sure they bottom before dropping the head on.

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Awdguy, you can tell who is doing this everyday

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They're below cylinders 4 and 6 as shown in the photo. Same on the other bank. 0728152252 (Medium).jpg

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Not today... Cam timing my version of the 964 engine, at 4.1 liters.. Not tonight, either... Finishing my 356 engine install... Just finished a 4.2 liter 9a1 engine, though....

Engine ****! Big quality difference compared to the M96/97.

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Yeah, the accountants aren't in charge around here...

BTW, saw your nice interview here by the Engine Builder Magazine. http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2016...t-on-the-rise/

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Yep... Likely to be my last interview!!! :-) All that journalism crap is over rated.

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Beautiful!!!! I just shed a couple of tears...

Hey Jake, was the 964 engine block bead blasted? It's sooo clean. This photo also shows a superior IMS design.

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It was prepared int he manner that I prep every engine that I build personally. I soda blasted the case, then used an aviation clear coating made for engine components to keep the raw surfaces from corroding. After this one is done I move onto a 996TT engine that I'm prepping in the same manner. I spend more time prepping and cleaning than most people spend on a whole engine. This 964 has about 130 hours in it to this point. That's not including the time I spent in sim configuring the combination, or the time spent on the flow bench with the heads. I've been spending more time in the engine room over the past few months.

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I love soda blasting (but not the mess though)! I did that to the engine case before sending it to Charles and later did that to the engine heads too. Basically anything that can be washed by water you can soda blast. I love the fact that soda dissolves in water so nothing gets lodged inside the engine. However, I still could not remove the dark freckles on the aluminum alloy. Not sure if I didn't use enough pressure or soda blast just can't do that. The freckles look like corrosion embedded deep in the metal. I feel the same about cleaning. My rebuild project has turned into a restoration project haha

There's always some spots that soda won't get.. I have plugs for all the ports in the engine, so in that case I block everything off and hit those sports with fine media... Then it goes through the ultrasonic at 165F for about 2 hours, get's flushed 2 dozen times with carb cleaner and 180* water to remove anything from the internal passages. It all takes time.. That what people don't understand when they see a price tag...

The "right" way always takes (a lot of) time. Time = $$ It's really not difficult to understand. Those engines are works of art BTW ! Wow...

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"But that engine, it cost more than my car is worth"... Yeah, its a Porsche, its been that way for the last 60+ freakin years.... The difference with the engines that I build personally, is the car is always worth a lot more than the engine...... I get bored with the normal stuff really fast. Until my new 9A2 engine arrives to be taken apart I won't have any fun with a modern Porsche.. Here's the 996TT all laid out, machined, and ready for me to begin assembly next week... It came in with 6 bent rods. Some idiot with a computer, that didn't know the 4 strokes of a 4 stroke engine got his hands on it.. 40K later......

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Ah, that makes sense. I think soda blast is as best as I could do at home then.

no pics but got the new oil pick up tube and internal aos's in tonight. going to clean the oil pan lid 1 last time before applying drei bond and closing it up. if the head studs are in, the heads will be on tomorrow and I'll snap some more pics then. the primary oil pump has 4 stud bolts, correct? the stud bolt thread lengths are not equal. looking at my old pictures, it looks like the shorter length threaded end goes into the block, can anyone confirm? also, is there a washer/gasket between the pump and block for the lower stud bolt? theres gaskets between the other studs so figured a washer or orin may go there but I don't see it with my old parts... old pump: 20150308_200253_zpsmso37ung.jpg

I thnk you are correct. I also remember there are lots of threads on the pump side of the stud even when the pump is not removed yet. There's no washer on the lower right stud. Here's my photo.

Perfect. thx again. can't find one of the studs. dammit

case is buttoned up back together. new AOS's and pick up tube in the swirl pots: 20160402_220246_zps24mxrnne.jpg applied a bead of drei bond and bolted on the sump cover. that's a LNE magnetic drain plug. 20160402_225845_zps7ehb8adk.jpg new primary and secondary oil pumps, LNE Hex drive behind the pump: 20160402_220129_zpsjgmleol2.jpg and new timing chain guide rails on both banks, thanks Ahsai for the tips on the rails...that got me going in the right direction 20160402_220143_zpsrifi30jr.jpg 20160402_220158_zpsq0n5evol.jpg

Heads on this week, set timing, bolt on more parts....maybe I'll be driving this thing by the end of the month????

Every time I see this thread I get excited for what's new. Keep up the great work man!

Looks like you are really gaining on your engine rebuild. Hope you have it running by months end.

Great work and thanks for keeping us updated!

Looking good! I guess it's safe to erase the markers on the pistons now

20160408_202147_zpskzgywylu.jpg heads are on....but we had to stop as my "complete engine gasket" kit from porsche is missing gaskets....again. argh. 20160408_202158_zpshupeeeqn.jpg 20160408_202222_zps5dgallhp.jpg placed another pelican order last night. I do the waiting game again. got a nice package from Jake...this saves me a few hundred. really appreciated man! 20160409_075009_zpsfzxwfsnb.jpg

the non tensioned timing chain rail guide for 1 2 3 goes in after the head drops on. I installed all the rails before and had to remove that one to install one of the small chain rail box bolts inside of the head.

Have you modded this engine so it can use 10 coil packs?

You didn't know? LNE Big Displacement kits are now available!

Just read the entire thread start to finish, what a great build. The time spent and the pictures taken at each step are very awesome. Looking forward to seeing it go back in the car!

Any updates AWD?

waiting for parts to come in. hopefully next week. package has been on route for 2 weeks now....

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Can you offer any suggestions on how to get a complete gasket kit? Or what is missing from yours? Or what not to do? Thanks

don't forget the dowels! lol I got the complete engine gasket kit from pelican. there was some gaskets that I double ordered and I am glad I did because the OE gaskets for the oil and water pump were of much better quality. I got what I paid for though as I went with a cheaper kit. it didn't have the gaskets for spark plug holes between the valve lifter carrier and head surface. the part notes may have mentioned this.

Subscribing. Looks like you are doing a great job!

Dropped the cams, and tensioners in, and got the timing done on both banks. RMS was done with borrowed tool. Went to install the cam covers and it looks like the porsche manual is recommending drei bond beige or locktite black. Dont have those. Can anyone tell me if I am ok to use the dreibond i used to mate the engine cases? Long block is pretty much well done now, now I start adding the rest of the stuff. Its been 2 years since I disassembled this thing. Going to be a good test of my memory. I have about 300+pics of the engine tear down that I can reference also. My phone died so didn't get too many pictures, I'll grab more tonight. Soon!

Dreibond 1209 is all I use. Under no circumstance will I use the Lactate 5900 product. We all hate that stuff with a passion.

K, its in my notes from the online course that that is all you use, but I wasn't sure if we were just talking about the short block then. Thanks. Also, the cam plugs, any additional sealant required? The gasket that goes behind the crankshaft pulley, is there a special tool to install that like the RMS?

I use a VERY light smear of Dreibond on the cam plugs. I then let them sit for 5 minutes before install, so they'll get tacky.

Man....cannot get this FMS done. I need a special tool, anyone have a how to for a DIY? 20160505_212903_zpsrr3vlhsw.jpg

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You need my Faultless Front Seal install tool. It uses the crank pulley bolt to pull the seal into the case. It sets depth too. LN is manufacturing a few hundred of these as we speak, since I decided to let them sell them. I'll have to check and see where they stand with that. If it's going to be too long you can borrow mine. I don't personally have an M96 on my build schedule till the middle of June, so you could keep it a few days if necessary. Mine is the prototype from years ago, so it lacks the cool features, but I'll tell you how to use it. The factory never offered a tool for this, and I don't know of anyone else offering one either..

That would be great Jake. I will send you an email.

help! what is the part number for this part? PicsArt_05-09-10.58.58_zpsald9kcmq.jpg having a hard time finding it myself and the dealer isn't much help either

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It's 99610704751 Searching for Porsche parts while having breakfast...I think I have issues haha

Btw, it's a good idea to also replace #7 and #22 (4 of them on the ends of the two corrugated hoses) as well. http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=104-10

AOS going for $75.00 now? Anyone used this specific part? Feedback? Same part different box/brand?

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You forgot to mention #18. Arghhhh

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Saving $75 on an off brand AOS doesn't seem like much of a bargain.

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Maybe it will have a stronger diaphragm?

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I was thinking the opposite. If the OE is struggling with Porsche "quality control" how bad will the cheap version be. Truthfully, I think all of the options suck. Screw it... I'm selling my C2 and my house and buying a GT3!

Well a failed one cost me a new 4.0, so suck it up and get a motorsports one as long as the engine is out.

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The "off brands" are often the SAME EXACT PART in a different box/package, hence my question. I don't know whether you're comfortable paying double (or more) for merchandise because it's got a certain label on it, but generally speaking, I'm not. Now, if you've got even some anecdotal evidence as to why this particular AOS should not or should be used I'd love to hear it... If not, NEXT !

I don't know either way. If I knew it was the exact same one manufactured to the exact same specs with the same QA, then I would certainly buy it. I hate the fact that Porsche charges a ridiculous premium. Or if it were a part that had little recourse of failure, such as an ignition, then I would give it a try. But since it's an AOS, I'm less likely to gamble.

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Was yours the Raby with a 4yo AOS?

I installed a brand new oem AOS

BTW, I got the FMS on making my own tool with a 1 1/4" PVC cap cut in half with a hole cut for the crankshaft bolt to fit in and used it to push the seal in.

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^NICE!^ when you say "cut in half" do you mean the depth dimemsion? (so the cap is shallower than it was originally?)

yes, you need to do that so the bolt will catch thread.

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Yes it was, and we were about to change it out after the season. Missed it by that much...

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That's sucks! Sorry man.

Well, it was an opportunity for an upgrade. And as they say, that's racing.

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PM sent to avoid further hijacking.

Anytime for a upgrade is good...its only money

Need some help with these lines: not sure I've hooked all these up properly. anyone have good pictures of theirs? or stock diagram? 20160521_142436_zpsvibyrznf.jpg 20160521_142401_zpsmohn1ubw.jpg 20160521_142322_zpswmvqxr9r.jpg

Does this help any?

This pic may help too. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post11895506

thanks guys...will take a look this morning.

good luck

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thought we were ready for the exhaust then flywheel, clutch & trans when we noticed the lower power steering fluid reservoir was cracked at the seems (noticed it when we were installing the top fluid reservoir). so out it came and I wait for a new one.... is there any tricks to the exhaust? is there a side I should do 1st?

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do you have 1 or 2 canisters? I have 2.

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You mean the vacuum reservoir/canister? I only have one. Why do you have 2? What's the second one for?

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glad I had my mechanic friend over last night...jeez. with his computer and manual, we got the vacuum lines done for both the vacuum system and the porsche PSE. but we broke a bolt on the muffler bracket so he brought the muffler home so he can weld a new stud in. and I'm still waiting for the power steering reservoir to arrive. but we're close....very close. finally some pics ... putting the engine on the bench to install RMS. 20160504_223855_zpsktxij4rv.jpg 20160504_223847_zpskkyc1pgq.jpg LNE thermostat 20160505_215615_zpsghbw4ail.jpg custom FMS tool, ha 20160507_092432_zpsosppwxio.jpg bolting on accessories 20160509_192414_zpsdzlbauuf.jpg New AOS 20160513_114646_zpspuckdgpk.jpg coolant lines on block 20160513_114714_zpsz5gyehb9.jpg 20160513_114725_zpsgxupdxlk.jpg 20160513_114658_zps6rogy0kq.jpg 20160523_221322_zpssl8cdacc.jpg new Sachs clutch and release bearing. thanks to No Limits auto parts in Ottawa. $1000 for something the dealer wanted $3000. 20160524_221946_zpsozasikvf.jpg 20160524_222727_zpspvwrnq1k.jpg 20160524_225254_zpshcof0jel.jpg 20160524_225222_zpsioejfime.jpg

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Looking good! Like your FMS tool

In the home stretch!!! You even have your Febreze ready. LOL.

Bumping to the top, AWDGuy talk to us.. Is the 4 liter alive yet?!

Not yet, dealer called 15 minutes ago to say my parts are in, I'm hoping I get some free time Sunday to work on it.

20160605_145644_zps4pijiyhh.jpg

Wow! Did you ever think you'd make it back to this point? Not too far to go now!

I'm just surprised I didn't break or needed a new part this go around. every time I go to work on it, we notice a part that is broken or not up to par to go back in and we get stuck playing the waiting game. Took us 2 hours, 3 guys, 3 jacks to get the motor and trans in. Now...I removed that condenser with engine in, but its a major PITA to get back in. Anyone have a secret for that? Also, anyone have a GOOD pic of the underbody coolant lines going to the coolant lines along the bottom of the block? I'm pretty sure I connected those properly, but I would like to confirm that...

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When I was putting my 3.4 back in I don't recall having any issue fitting the AC condenser back in its place. With the motor out I hung it over the side under a rag. Any chance the lines are twisted and with the motor in you don't have enough room to un-twist it? Have you thought to lower the motor enough to give you more room?

yes, I did the same thing but going back in isn't easy.

Maybe this photo will help. Quite difficult to mess up I think.

yes, thx again. looks like I got it but I'll double check later...

some swearing in this so watch the volume. Porsche 4.0 1st start - YouTube Ran it for 20 minutes at 2000rpm. I have a small coolant leak that will need to be addressed but otherwise it ran great. drained the oil and took some pics of the lne plug. I am using joe gibs driven break in oil. 20160609_195139_zpssbsqwvw0.jpg 20160609_195153_zpsznekco1b.jpg

Outstanding!! Great job. The drain plug looks about normal for 20 minutes of no load running. I look at mine the first time after 52 miles. Did you use Renold, or IWIS timing chains, lots of the material on the plug is coming from the chains at this point.

Can someone tell me the part # for this hose (rubber, not the hard lined one)? 2016-06-10_8-45-16_zpsdgyg0kg0.jpg Looking on auto atlanta, it looks like it is 99610622267 but it splits into 2 at one point in their pictures...mine doesn't do that.

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Thanks for all your help behind the scenes on this build Jake. From the advice, and the deals you gave me, everything you did is really appreciated. Please call me if you are in the Ottawa area. I owe you lunch and some beers. I went with IWIS chains with the link, believe these are the ones you suggested I use during the online class I took.

What a sweet sweet sound! When you get a chance, I'd love to see a recap on your thoughts of the entire process. Just a full brain dump of things that stuck out, lessons learned, costs, and if you thought the whole thing was worth it.

I dont want to tally up my receipts really. lol

Awesome!!! Great work AWDGuy.

At one point the hoses changed over from a one to one to a two to one. That's all I can help with. BTW......FANTASTIC JOB!!! I was sitting on the edge of my seat waiting for that thing to turn over.

Congrats!!!

I'm no help with the hose, but it's great to see the car up and running.

Great job and congrats! Nice to see a 1st start video. The engine sounds awesome!

Awesome video to watch first thing this morning. Congrats Can't wait until it's on the road and you can give your full thoughts!

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Maybe by the weekend. Going to get my temp plate sticker tomorrow, and hopefully get my emmissions testing done next week.

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Better pics here. Looks correct to me. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-porsche-parts/heater-hose/99610622267/

thanks again..I owe YOU several cases of beer. maybe I'll make a "thank you road trip" to the states. lol

Great stuff! Something to remember for a long, long time.

I'm gonna have to pay for a nice vacation to Chicago for Ahsai if I ever have to rebuild my engine.

Just make sure the damn RMS is replaced. Heard it's horrible experience to get it replaced under warranty. LOL

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Well if you subscribe to one of Jake's theories, the case itself can be oval'd to a certain degree meaning no matter how many times you replace it, you will still have a leak. Just like no matter if you replaced the IMS on the same token, your engine might still break down.

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every gasket and seal is brand new.

Well done !! Good to see someone with the ***** to take on s full build, hope it all goes well running her in!!

Wow, I am so impressed, I just read the entire thread now. (Fortuitous timing to get see how it all turned out at one reading) Funny how if you saw a car drive past you wouldn't think anything, but if you knew the effort and talent that went in to get it "back from the dead" it would give you pause and respect I hope you have many years of enjoyment with your unique Porsche!

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Any time and I'm glad to help! Hey. that's not a bad idea. A long road trip is a great way to break in that 4.0 beast! That sounds good! Hope you never need it though

Awesome video and great job! Car sounds like a beast!

Great job AWD!!!! I've been following since the beginning and it is just fantastic to see what you have accomplished!!!

Bah. was going too well. went for my 1st drive to break in the motor. stopped at the gas station to top up with gas. found some nice roads with hills and started doing uphill pulls in 2nd gear. 1st hill was great, car pulled really nice. shift to 3rd and it didn't feel right. it was tough to get in. shift back to 2 as I'm going down another hill and do another pull up the hill, these are 90kmhr road so I can't go all out in 3rd....car is pulling nice and as I go to shift to 3rd, it grinds, and won't go in at all. now I can't get it in any gear....ugh. pull over, 4 ways on, call caa. tow truck gets there 30 min later and gets it up on the flatbed. I can see from there, the bottom shifter cable is loose. not out of its bracket but maybe half way in. so I get it towed back to my place and put it up on the stands. install it better and slapped a zip tie around the bracket. while in the air, I got in and shifted the gears. seemed to work a lot better. as soon as I got it on the ground though, the car won't go in gear. wth?

You learn to always safety wire the gates that hold both shifter cables. I even do this on an IMS Retrofit job. You may have the trans between two gears now. Pop the cables from both, zero the shifter, and zero the two levers, then connect it all back.

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k. I'll give that a shot today...as soon as the power comes back on. it's always something with me....

If it's the tranny, time for some shorter gears?

checked the cables they look good. undid everything and reinstalled, same thing. rebleed the whole system, same thing. when the car is off, not running, I can move the car and forward like it's in neutral. I start the car and as soon as I release the clutch it lunges forward like it's in a high gear. pushed the clutch in and try taking off from 1st and you just smell burnt clutch.

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Wow, that is frustrating. Did you also remove the center console, disconnect the cables ( those spring loaded connectors) from the shifter and put the shifter in neutral with a shifter centering tool? Then put the transmission shift levers in neutral and reconnect the cables inside the car. I wonder if the cables are somehow routed differently so some adjustment is needed.

You probably installed the clutch disc backward... They can be confusing. Doesn't explain exactly what happened in the beginning, but thats certainly what it sounds like now. With the disc in backward it'll have these exact same symptoms. The pain from that mistake 15 years ago still lives with me today!

This is the correct side facing the front in case you need a photo.

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never heard of that. it's a single disc clutch, installed similar clutches on other cars, never heard of a right side for a OEM clutch. the porsche manual also never made mention of that. guess she's coming out. ..gotta love love learning. lol

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I started looking at this last night but I never touched the cable from the inside. never used a centering tool. all I did was popped off the cable at the transmission, unplugged a sensor and removed the shifter ****...

Yep, the disc is side specific. The hub isn't the same on both sides, one side is more offset and will contact the ID of the release assembly more than the other. You can pull the tranny to check it, and leave the engine in the car. No other problem makes sense that I can think of, other than this. The factory manual is a joke.

You guys think my transmission is fubard? These things are pretty tough I read. I am going to try and find a hoist to work form and get the car towed from there. I've been in the garage on my back for the last 7 nights....my neck is killing me.

The tranny is a tank. You didn't do anything to grenade it, either. Thats why I am guessing clutch related issues. I'd take a few days off from it, you'll make a mistake much easier if you push too hard.

Yeah, you're right Jake, My wife needs her husband and the kids need their dad back. I've been obsessive about this.

I learned a long time ago to step away along the way. I'll typically kill myself when assembling an engine, but I stop 3 times along the way and do something else. Last week I was kicking *** on the 996TT I am building now, but I then found myself needing break, so I jumped on the tractor, and cut the grass... All day long. I'll get back on it this week and get to my next goal, ring gaps, piston install, and water jacket install. If I'm lucky I'll get the cylinders fitted, too.... But then I'll break away from it, and do something else. When I'm finished, I take 3-4 days off to think about things, before installing the engine. Its easy to wear yourself thin.

AWD, my photo shows what Jake explained. If you look closely, the "spokes" of the disc are not flat, they are curved. I took that pic to remind myself.

man....I think I would have seen that. maybe not. we will see when it gets dropped.

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But why it didn't give you problem immediately upon driving? I can't explain why your shifter cable has shifted either. What a head scratcher.

yeah, exactly. I have a video of me leaving the driveway for the 1st tome in 2 years. Smooth as silk. I am just hoping I didnt break anything that will cost me a new trans...

You indicated you bled the clutch slave cylinder? Did you do this manually or with a pressure/suction bleeder? Can you have someone verify the clutch cylinder moving consistently when you press the clutch and that there are no leaks?

Did all that also. My old man came by last night and we used the mitivac7300 to bleed everything...

another thing I wanted to mention is that the car can be pushed, like it's in neutral, when it's on the ground...

trans is done. apparently there was no oil in it. I never drained it but I guess with it sitting there for 2 years. costly mistake on my behalf. feel like a complete idiot right now.

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Oh man.....my heart just sank reading this. You sure it's toast? Think about used http://www.ebay.com/itm/2002-2003-20...-/151713215007 It's only money

Sorry to hear, that's pretty rough. Hopefully it can be repaired or someone has a spare around.

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Wow... Bummer!!! Especially after being so careful with the engine rebuild... Don't beat yourself up too bad over it - even the best make mistakes. All this being said, please don't tell me you brought the Tranny to "Dennis the Menace" for the diagnosis...

Uggh! Well the finish line just got a few steps further away. But you've kicked *** this far so no need to let up now. A rebuild is more expensive but it would be cool to have one shifting like new. Looks like lots of used trannies available though for quite a bit less. If you do ship it off, I hear they fit perfectly in a large igloo cooler. Just wrap it up for protection and drop it in.

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You gotta summon KK now.

we added oil. car runs and I got it up to 3rd gear in the shops parking lot. shifted really nice. noises are going away but there's still some noise. this shop (not a porsche shop) doesn't want me to drive the car home (which is less than a km away) .

Don't feel bad.. I have forgotten to service a transaxle in a customer's car and it seized on the test drive when he was with me! But, I was 14 years old :-)

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Oh man! Sorry to hear that. Hope you can reaurrect it somehow.

drove 20kms on it tonight. 3rd gear wHines but stops after 5000rpm. every other gear works fine. everything shifts fine, 1 2 3 hold while accelerating hard. Going to do a couple of flushes and see how that goes. no check engine lights yet either, if this keeps up, I should be able to get my emission testing done soon.

That's cool! Sounds a lot better than what was feared.

So, once again the first thing the "tranny shop" tells you is..."The tranny's toast", but in fact, it turns out after refilling with oil, it actually seems to work fairly well - maybe not perfect (yet), but MUCH better than toast Glad it's working out this way

This is not a tranny shop. They are a shop that specializes in Subarus. I trust this mechanic 100%, I've known him since I was 15, he just doesn't see many Porsches. he's still insisting I don't drive the car. he's going to be shaking his head at me when I go see him this morning.

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Ah, ok - misunderstood... Hopefully he learns from this experience! Obviously, there could be some irreversible damage in there still - I just think there are too many shops that are quick to write off engines and tranny's (and whatever else) as unfixable... Who knows, maybe he got burned previously for trying to fix something he shouldn't have.

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Why doesn't he want you driving it? Risking more damage prior to suggested rebuild?

Specialists hate to see things fail, or be in worse condition than they have to be if they do have to come apart. I am in the same boat, if an engine has symptoms of mechanical failure, is noisy, or if it had been ran low on oil, I'd also recommend parking it. You might be okay if you change the gear oil several times to flush the debris out of it... With each change you should see the debris levels dropping. If this doesn't happen, then you'll be tearing it apart.

talked to him this morning and he said "maybe you got lucky, keep flushing it" he's still recommending I save up for a new trans.... what oil do you guys use? if I can squeeze out the summer and park it in the fall, that would be perfect. use the winter to swap trans

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If this truly is the case, can we expect a shirtless pic of you like Kalash and KK with a beer in your hands?

Yeah, no.

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I seem to recall when our transmission was being rebuilt that my mechanic pointed out a magnet at the bottom of the housing to catch debris. I also seem to recall that there was no way to clean it without opening it up. Am I misremembering? If I am remembering correctly, wouldn't that keep the metal from being flushed out entirely? And couldn't that leave you open to future issues (debris gets jarred loose at some point or the magnet is "full" and new debris is free to do it's worst)?

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That is correct. The magnet is next to the drain hole inside the transmission. Toward the rear of the car if memory serves. If not, toward the front then. Use your pinky to feel if there's any debris there. Best oil is Porsche tranny oil, about $30/L from Sunset and you need 2.7L.

I use Mobile 1 Delvac 75W-90. GT3 cars use it and it is only $42 per gallon at Suncoast.

The Delvac is a popular one but I remember seeing reviews saying difficulty getting in 1st/2nd in cold weather so I didn't recommend that to AWD since he's in Canada. I could be wrong so maybe more research is needed. Also the GT3 uses steel synchros and we use brass.

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The cold weather issues and longevity is the key for a regular car IMO, hence my agreement with the Porsche fluid, although pricey, being the best choice. If your car only see's warm climates and this is going to be a regular track car where you plan on changing out the tranny fluid often, then there are quite a few other suitable alternatives. Just make sure to compare MSDS specs for shear, flashpoint, viscosity at both the lower 40deg c and 100deg C. Personally I like to do it once and have it working like it should.

How often should you change the tranny fluid if you are tracking one?

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Boy, that's a trick question. Until all the additives are depleted or you start crunching your synchro's? Don't think there's one solid answer for that one and a lot of different philosophies to it. T

I have three quarts of the Porsche fluid sitting on my desk, waiting for me to get some jack stands that actually fit the car. Did lots of research, and the consensus across multiple porsche related forums is to use the oem fluid. Having to flush it out every couple hundred miles is going to be expensive though. Wonder if you could filter the stuff and reuse it a few times?

... by the way, the first result on amazon for "porsche jack pad" is a hockey puck.

got codes p0171, p0174 & p0507 tonight on my drive. came on as soon as it stopped and idled high. and of course my durametric now decides it doesn't want to connect to the car so I had to pull those codes using a generic scanner. I checked for vacuum leaks, thought I found the culprit. one of the intake manifold connections was loose. so i tightened that and cleared the codes. tried starting it but it started and died right away. did that another 2 times and it finally started but it's rough. must still be a leak somewhere.

You may want to do the e-gas re-calibration. Key ON engine OFF for 1 minute without touching the gas pedal. Then turn key to OFF, wait 10s and you're done.

I also unplugged and plugged in the MAF sensor, & the purge valve...not sure if that would cause it to take a while to start after.

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ok, I'll give that a shot tomorrow.

On the MAF,,, I have had idle problems since I got my '99 C2 6-speed. replaced idle air control valve, nothing... throttle position sensor, nothing... cleaned throttle body, nothing... checked for vacuum leaks endlessly, nothing... replaced oil filler cap, nothing... etc., etc. pulled the MAF and shot it with cleaner. I did this last because it was just replace by PO 3 months prior to me purchasing. Nothing... Finally after months of annoying idle bouncing all over the place I came to read a post about when cleaning the MAF that you use nearly an entire bottle of MAF cleaner. Theses are big aerosol bottles by the way and seemed like over kill. So I hit it with 1/3 of a bottle let it dry, another 1/3 of the bottle and let dry, then another which finished off the bottle. Problem solved....idle as smooth as silk for over a month now...

That's great information. You may want to move it to its own thread so it's not buried so deep in this one. That way it will be searchable by those in need.

I started it this morning and let it idle for 15 min. idle isn't high anymore, & it didn't throw the codes again. I'll go for a drive later on and see.

Might have had some extra fuel in there from the vacuum leak.

done a little over 100kms now, I see codes p0171 and p0174 are pending, but no check engine light. car is idling fine, motor is still sounding great. Will keep driving and see if this will go into ready mode for my emission testing. that's the ticket at this point. also went over to my buddies and used his hoist to triple check everything. I drained the transmission and the oil looked ok, had a silver tinge to it. ran a magnet through it and it picked up...nothing. ran my finger in the hole to feel for debris and couldnt feel anything. put some amsoil in there and will do another flush and put the OE stuff in it in another 100km. No leaks that I can see either. also took a pic of the car. that was nice. lol 20160620_193144_zps0w73t9nk.jpg

It looks great! Good to hear the tranny seems to be fine and hope the pending codes won't develope into hard codes.

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any suggestions on what to check if they do?

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Ontario?

onterrible

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lol me too. Where?

Ottawa East

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The usual suspects for air leak such as the intake plenum, intake hose and all those big hose clamps. Do you have Durametric? If the codes develop, you will have to do more in-depth checking with Durametric.

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I do but it crapped out on me and keeps giving me errors communicating messages. I'll have to write to their support line...

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Check fuse B1 and pin 16 of the OBDII port and make sure it has +12v with key ON engine OFF.

all those same codes popped up again and I've yet to get the durametric working again.

and i see some other codes pending also...these are new p0300, p0301, p0304 I thought there was some slight stumble going on while cruising around 3k rpm. I really need to get my durametric working

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So they are all misfire codes of some flavor. I don't know much about the ECU on these cars does it take some time to relearn for the larger engine bore and various mods?

I'm thinking because the MIL was triggered by the 1st ones i had (p0171 p0174) that i am still looking at a vacuum leak somewhere.

You need at least an OBDII scanner that can read sensor values in real-time to track the following: - Coolant temp - MAF - Short term fuel trim (RKAT in Durametric) - Long term fuel trim (FRA in Durametric) - Voltage of all 4 O2 sensors

FYI, I had to restore my laptop to factory default Windows load and reinstall Durametric software to get it working again. You might try it on another machine if you have something you can drag out there.

My garage found the leak. Unfortunately he is recommending I drop the engine to fix it. I'm not sure that's necessary. He is spraying around where the intake manifold meets the block and the car's idle drops as soon as brake clean is sprayed in that area.

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Get VirtualBox (free) and run Windows in a VM specifically for Durametric. Much less hassle when something happens as you don't have to blow away your personal stuff. Also means that whatever you do to the desktop OS is much less likely to screw with the Dura install

Good idea. I'm using a spare Surface II pro that needed to be wiped anyway but it makes sense to have 996 VM for the collection of outdated tools I'm amassing.

I see some hows tos for removing drivers side intake manifold to get to the AOS, can this be done on the passenger side?

AWD; A couple of years ago, I believe Perryinva had a thread to replace the O-rings under the oil exchanger where he had to remove the right intake (pass. side) to do this. I searched but so far ... pas de chance!

when we spray brake clean on bank 2 intake manifold runner, the idle drops right away. my leak os somewhere at the front. going to look at it next week. no time right now.

I know on the left side, you want to lower the engine almost to the crossbar, drain the coolant so you can get the hoses out of the way, remove the intake manifold bolts, and THEN take off the plenums. This is out of order from the DIY but I found it much easier. Not sure how much will apply to the right side though.

Ive put 300km's on the engine now. A mixture of easy and somewhat hard driving. Car pulls really nice. 2nd gear is just a riot. Speeds get too high in the other gears for the public roads. I need to get over to Calabogie asap. I havent lost a drop of oil. Which is really nice. I would of had to add a 1/4L in 300km's of driving when I had scored cylinders. The following issues are no longer present. I suspect because I am using new sensors, and the heads are cleaned up now and not full of oily gunk from the scored cylinders: -Hard start when engine is warm/hot -Big hesitation/misfire on take off (cold engine only) Now to replace the headlight switch so i can have some high beams, and get that window fixed - again. I added some Porsche tire valve stem caps. Do you know how long Ive been waiting to do dumb mods like that? LOL

Congrats AWD!!!! What an accomplishment!

That's is amazing. Thanks for the update. A huge achievement on your part!

Nice work, did your count your bolts? This guy didn't.

Excellent work and congrats! Glad to hear it's running strong! Looks like the DME is happy. Just wondering how the it adapts in terms of fuel trims (RKAT and FRA or STFT/LTFT)? Are those close to 0?

Congrats. Glad all your work is paying off.

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I havent monitored anything yet. If my alcoholic neighbor could put down the beer and drive my car so i can log that and check it out, that would be great. Maybe tonight...lol

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Ouch, what happened?

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Please tell me that the photo's are distorted and that the piston isn't really THAT OVAL !!!

and today I passed my emissions testing 20160711_171540_zps7gqwbagh.jpg

I think its the angle of the pic. The guy was changing the oil filler tube and dropped the bolt in the intake.

bah. spoke too soon. p0300 and misfire on cyl 1 & 4 now. is this mechanical or should I still be looking at vacuum? what should I log on torque?

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Its adapting, clear it and roll on.

sounds.....too easy? lol there is a really slight hesitation while slowly rolling on the throttle and that only happens once in a while. other wise it is idling consistently at 750 rpm. raises a hundred or so with AC on....

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That's interesting as I think normally it should idle at around 700rpm.

I'll look again tonight

Picked up a new MAF also at lunch time so I will throw that in at the same time.

Well done it's good to see some success !!

Excellent job. I commend your courage and abilities! This initiative, coupled to the great success of my enthusiast level classes has proven that the DIY world of building these engines demands some emphasis from a parts and support perspective. You will all appreciate what the future holds.

I'm so happy to see this thread end up with you enjoying the car. Annnnnd I gotta ask . . . sound clip when you get a chance.

Yes, lots of people asking for sounds clips...here and my local crew. They are coming Installed new MAF based on Jakes suggestion. Cleared codes and went out for a 20 minute drive on the hwy and back. Didnt notice any hestitation yet, so I am hoping the new MAF fixed my problem.

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I paid closer attention to the torque values this time. It hovers around 680- and 730 on torque, the needle doesnt look like it moves on the dash though.... I also logged some fuel trims but have no clue what I should be seeing or if I logged the right ones. I just slected a bunch of Short and Long term fuel trm values that was available in the list. What would you log? What values should I be seeing on a healthy setup?

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I would log: - rpm: should around 680-700 rpm - STFT: will swing a few % positive or negative at idle - LTFT: usually it's a few % positive - MAF: should read ~ 4-5g/s on a 3.6 at idle (engine fully warmed). Not sure what it will read on a 4.0L. My guess is it's a little over 4g/s - Precat O2 sensor voltage (O2 voltage bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1): swings between 0.3 to 0.7v about every once a second on at idle. - Postcat O2 sensor voltage (O2 voltage bank 1 sensor 2 and bank 2 sensor 2): more or less stays at ~0.7v at idle (engine fully warmed up)

^thanks. I'll do some logging next time I drive. took jake's suggestion and changed out the MAF for a new one. put on about 60km last night. lots of that on the hwy on cruise control to try and reproduce the misfire. nothing. fingers crossed. oh and while staring at her in the garage last night I see this thing hanging from my rear view. there's a light in it. ....what is it? 20160713_212331_zpsopiv7bux.jpg

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Glad to hear this :-)

yes Jake, it is. I'll hopefully be able to go for another hwy run tonight and put on another 60km on it. approaching my 1st real oil change interval!! here's another angle of that wire and light. 20160712_231218_zps2lgjm00b.jpg where does it go???

Did PO have it for radar detector by chance?

I doubt it, thats illegal here in Canada. rain sensor?

You mean: "... that is illegal here in ... Ontario!" It is legal in British Columbia, but not necessarily held in high regard by the Mounted ones!

So how are things AWD? All good I presume!! Final close out of the project? Lessons learned?

Havent really driven it that much to be able to give you guys an idea. Pulls strong, hasnt flipped any CEL's lately, motor sounds great. I will hopefully have more for you soon, including more videos of this thing accelarating or something.... There is a track day coming up and Calabogie also...

WOW want a great thread. Congrats on your build, time investment and courage to see it through. Makes me wonder what I could have (or had someone else do) to my 996. They are fun cars. Your first start up video was great. I even gave a little cheer for you. Post another one when you can. Inspirational!

Probably not the video you guys wanted to see at this point but I was going through some old files and found my vids I took of Cold start up and idle when it HAD scored cylinders. The smoke on start up isn't that bad the time I recorded but its still significant. It would smoke a lot more than that sometimes. And the smoke was white, then it would be blue the next time. And other times it would NOT smoke at all. You can really hear the ticking/knocking at the end when I put the camera underneath, but I try to capture all the symptoms. Blackened out tailpipe from he scored bank....smoke on start up.....heavy oil consumption (you can see it coming out the tailpipes - ffs, lol), and the knocking. And as you'll see....idles perfect....no check engine lights. Porsche C4S Scored Cylinders - YouTube

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That's a classic scored cylinder example.. It hits all the marks. People will learn from this one.

Great read!

What kind of oil consumption were you seeing? Sorry if this has been covered - it's a long thread!

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+1 ... thanks to AWD for taking the time to detail the work, and taking the photos. Pretty great effort on his part, and kudos to everyone who helped out along the way.

Great thread! Thanks for posting! Mike

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2nd sentence on the 1st page

I saved the "first start" video for after I read the whole thread.... Just finished, and went back to pg 18 and watched your video. I was yelling with you and gave a fist pump in the air. Hats off to you! Mucho Respecto... Massive congratulation!

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Yeah that would have been a good place to check

ARGH. How come every time I want to go to the track, something comes up... As I pulled into work parking lot today, check engine comes on. Friggin P0171 again. This is after a good 1000km's since the new MAF went in... Idle's great, pulls strong, doesn't seem like there's an issue. Now....the O2 Sensors at some point were spliced, I'm not even convinced they are the ones for the car. Looks like they were spliced to make fit or someone had a AF gauge on it....but for an NA car, I don't know why someone would do that. I'm not seeing any symptoms of a vacuum leak. I'm leaning to faulty O2 sensor. Guess i can grab a can of propane and check for leaks at the track....

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Don't track the car with that code. Fuel trim will be all jacked up and you'll create bigger issues. These engines are very susceptible to issues created by enrichment during break in and the period just after break in. Figure out that problem before track time. Also, spliced O2s are a huge no-no, as the lead is a crucial part of how the sensor works. That could have been a leading contributor to your failure the first time around.

will do jake. all this fresh xp6 oil going to waste I'm going to order some o2 sensors then and get on that.

Looking at pelican, they have a universal Bosch sensor. This one looks like it has to be spliced to be installed...but the splicing would happen near the plug? Maybe that's what I have on the car now?

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Possible. Btw, amazon has the best deals for Bosch direct fit O2 sensors. Just look up the bosch numbers on boschautoparts.com

A lot of guys use Bosch universal sensors as they're able to get it for less because it doesn't have the specific connector on it, even though the sensor itself might be the same. Does it say Bosch imprinted on the sensor body?

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my parts guy is telling to stay away from bosh as they have gone downhill recently. what do you guys think?

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In what way? specifics? Last time I checked O2 sensor technology hasn't changed much and Bosch still had the same factories/processes/materials.

...cannot go downhill in a relative short period of time. There might be an explanation for that, there are tons and tons of couterfeit parts out there coming from China but mainly from South Korea. It's a $600 billion "industry" and growing. Problem is that the counterfeit products today have been designed to look like almost perfect replicas of the genuine product, so people don't know a counterfeit when they see one. From my personal experience Porsche/ BMW/ MB original parts made by Bosch are of a better quality and last longer compared w/ their Bosch branded equivalents. Always been. My advice to you is to buy parts from a Porsche dealer. It's more expensive, I know, but there is no other way.

I reset it and have put another 250km on it. hasn't come back yet.

Code still hasn't returned, did 20 minutes at Calabogie Motorsports Long track. car is incredible around the track. 1 thing I noticed was battery light flickering while bombing down the front straights. Last night....took the car to the gym and it started making funny noises. I decided to turn around to go back home and something let go in the engine. Battery light stayed on this time and I started smelling rubber....good thing I was only 30 seconds away from my house. As im driving back, i loose power steering, and volts below 13. Pretty sure my belt is gone. Get home, open trunk, wow....the power steering pulley is gone. Not there. nada. The belt is wrapped around everything in the engine bay and frayed to hell. Cleaned all that up and got underneath....oh, Hi there steering pump pulley. It was just laying on the exhaust pipes. 4 days for those 3 bolts to come in. yay. cars are fun.

Glad to hear the engine is still running strong. Sorry for all the other headaches. It would be great to see some track video! Really just some good pulls down the straights.

Good news is that it isn't a BMW interference engine. Otherwise all your hard work would have been for naught but blown timing and bent valves Guessing the flickering charge light was the early sign though my first guess would have been a bad voltage regulator or stator.

Voltage regulator and cables were done about 100km after buying the car.

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Going through some crap now with girlfriend's Beetle's coilovers for the past few weeks. Thinking the same thing. He lost an accessory belt, not timing.

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Definitely sounds like that pulley was making the belt lose tension for a period of time. It's your likely cause of the electrical issue.

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I was being facetious. I know full well that the M96 uses the internal chains for timing. BMW which I mentioned, on the other hand, went through a period where the timing and accessories were driven off a belt that originally had a ridiculously long service interval and when the belt snapped it through your timing off which caused the pistons to strike your valves and result in a big mess. The point being that AWDguy didn't spend a bunch of time/money/pain doing all this amazing work just to have to redo a bunch of it. While annoying and I'm sure incredibly frustrating, this is pretty minor all things considered.

yes, this is minor. annoyed I can't drive car for 4 days because of 3 simple bolts though.

You may want to check and replace your idler/tensioner pulleys. I had the exact same thing happend on my BMW and my tensior pulley gave out allowing the belt to slip off and do the same kind of damage. It took out my radiator end tank, dented the hood from underneath, shattered my radiator shroud and belt got tangled all over the place.

went camping with the car...got some weird looks and a comment but more thumbs up than anything. on the way back it threw a CEL. thought for sure it was the lean condition one coming back. nope...p0136 and p0159. bank 1& 2, sensor 2 problems. replaced em both....now I wait for more codes? lol. hope not.

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That thing seems to be nickel and diming you to death.

seems? lol

...and I still need to get the headlight switch done, & sway bar end links.

new rear o2's in and p0171 is back.

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insurance paid up? Bag of Doritos under the dash.

2002 C4S 4.0 For Sale. 30k US.

Letting it beat ya?

Oh damn. Not how I expected this to end Please tell us this is a troll

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I hate to see your baby sent away. Isn't there a pro in Ontario that can help you sort this out? Keltech seems to have experience with 4.0 conversions.

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Say it ain't so!

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I was beat the day I bought a car with scored cylinders. I am being advised to not drive the car at all until I fix this issue. it will be hard to sell like that but buyer will get full disclosure. as of now, the car smokes on initial start up. has since the 1st week. smokes for about 3-5 seconds then goes away. slight hesitation at 3k rpm and this p0171. I am told it could be broken rings, AOS, injectors...wtf knows until I drop the engine and throw more parts at it. durametric won't connect. communication error. torque works fine. the car has been nothing but a headache and kicking years off my life in terms of stress. I shouldn't let a car do that to me but I am a car guy, I love them and it really bothers me when 1 in my fleet is down. I can't say I havent tried. but enough is enough. I gotta draw a line at some point.

Oh man, sorry to hear that. I can imagine after what you've been through. Maybe it's top end related like a bad valve guide? Did you try any leak down/compression tests?

No, that was another suggestion....to do leak down and compression tests. maybe the new owner will have the energy to do that.

That sucks. GLWS

Dang, sorry to hear that your story ends like this and hopefully the new owner's story begins and we can follow it here.

AWD: So sorry to hear you've reached your limit, but I understand. Two years and more hours than any of us realize can become overwhelming. Your thread has been incredibly informative and interesting. I too, like others have said, watched for new posts from you on this project. You should be proud of what you accomplished. Surely not the end you wanted or expected but more than many/most of us would have ever done. As BB King sang: "The thrill is gone...". Thanks to your efforts that made me more familiar with what is inside my engine and the realization that it is a work of art. Wish you well and peace with your decision.

yeah, its a ****ty end but I learned a ton of stuff. It isn't all lost. I'm pretty much not afraid of anything when it comes to car mechanics now. Just did the spark plugs, intake gaskets, PCV valve on my Lexus in record time. Before building this motor, I would have sent a job like that to the mechanics. I think someone will get a great car here once they figure out this p0171 issue and smoke on start up thing. I've just ran out of patience (and money)

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I feel ya that completely sucks, and these things aren't appreciating at all so any $ your throwing at it will not come back. Best of luck with where ever the road takes you.

Sorry for your luck man. My prediction is that it will sit on the market for quite awhile, you won't be able get the price you want on it, time will heal the pain and replenish the funds, and then you will say F it, dive back in, and find out it was something simple.

I actually have quite a bit of interest. someone wanted to come look at it tonight but it's the wife and I's anniversary so they are coming tomorrow. another is coming Saturday. it will get put away in the garage for winter soon anyways as I'm not going to put winters on it due to the existing issues but will still be available for showings.

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got a link to the listing?

I hope I'm wrong(as I frequently am) and that it all works out for you.

price here is CDN - http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/ottawa/2002-porsche-911-4-0/1206763027?utm_source=com.google.android.apps.docs&utm_medium=social&utm _campaign=socialbuttons&utm_content=app_android going to clean it up this weekend while I make a spot for it in the garage. probably give her a stage 1 polish to remove the swirl marks and make the paint pop. once I get that done and take more pics, it will go on trader.ca also.

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Good luck with the sale. I have mine currently listed as well in the Toronto area but there are lots here. I can't even get an offer at 33.5k listed. I hope your way is better than the gta. Looking to move back to a cts-v

yours a turbo?

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C4s almost identical car to yours.

The car is at a local Porsche guru to figure out this p0171 code I have. He called this morning and told me that the car actually has 5 codes. All the same codes I've been dealing with in this thread. Codes I thought I had figured out. Quick recap of what I had: after 1st tank of gas, codes came up for misfires on cyl 1, 3 and 4. Jake suggested I replace the MAF and look for vacuum lines. So I did. Replaced MAF, found a couple of areas where a bolt needed tightening on the intake manifold. cleared codes. About a gas tank and half later, the car throws a code for running lean on bank 1 (p0171) I clear it and hope it goes away for good. Go camping with the car, do another 600-700km of hwy driving and CEL comes on again. This time it says the rear O2's are done. replace those with Porsche OE ones, clear codes and move on. Do another 500km, and the CEL comes on again. This time its the running lean bank 1 again (p0171) is it possible the misfire and o2 codes are just old codes still hanging around and thats why he sees them? I only spoke to him for 5 minutes. Gave him the rundown of what I did with the car....he was asking about what I did for coils and O2's and explained that they are new. said he just plugged it in and that's it this morning, said he was going to get i on the hoist later today and hopefully be able to get me more info. I'm getting quite a bit of interest from buyers but its crickets after i explain what Im going through right now....so it would be nice to not have to explain that to a potential buyer. Id rather sell ti go-to-go.

What you need are fuel trim values, both long and short term, and fuel trim adaptive values. These are everything to diagnosis. Old codes can be a problem, BUT O2 sensors also die when an engine loses cylinders, as the oil consumption fouls them. After any oil/ coolant intermix, or heavy oil consumption, O2 sensors must be questioned. I often replace them as a default. I would also question injector fuel atomization, and again, fuel trim will help pin point this. The 0171 code can also be a spin off from a weak MAF sensor. What the MAF sensor value at idle, fully warmed up? After an engine is built a DME Handover is required, or at least a hard reset of the DME, old codes won't live through that. The tech can see what hour the code was first thrown, and the most recent occurrence, as long as he has the proper tool. This tells the story. You do have an enrichment issue, and or/ a dying cat... Why? The codes are not always for a specific part, but rather they are showing a problem upstream that only that one sensor can see. Once it goes out of range the code is triggered. I see more MAF sensor issues lead to O2 codes, than O2 problems. That damn computer doesn't know more than the tech, as long as he engages his brain, and considers everything.

After rebuilding, I wasn't losing oil. never went down pass 1 bar. I replaced the MAF with a brand new one once you told me to do that after the 1st set of misfires. Those were misfires I could feel while driving...once I put in a new MAF and fixed the leaks I couldn't feel those misfires at all. Shortly after that i got the O2 codes. My rear O2 sensors were in brutal shape, if you remember, I mentioned they were spliced to hell. I really should have replaced them, the MAF and the injectors from the getgo. lesson learned. Anyways, this shop came recommended form my local race club and from a few in the rennlist canada forums. Saw a 911/996 in his hsop last night when I dropped off the car, along with some Audi's. Hopefully he can use his fancy gizmos and point me int he right direction. Was nice to take the car out though last night. if it wasnt for that code, you'd never know there was issues. drives really nice.

I wonder if you could smoke test the intake to see if there are any vac leaks. Soft failing fuel pump? eh, that would probably give you lean codes on both banks. How secure are you on your cam timing? (sorry didn't read every post)

P0171 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 � Above Limit Diagnosis Conditions � Oxygen sensing system active � Time elapsed after engine start-up: 250 to 350 seconds (USA) � Time elapsed after engine start-up: 302 to 402 seconds (RoW) � Engine temperature greater than 60 �C Possible fault cause - Incorrect signal from MAF sensor - Intake air system leaking - Fuel pressure too low - Volume supply of fuel pump too low - Fuel injectors fouled - PCV valve leaks - Cap of oil filler neck not closed correctly or seal is damaged 1 Close cap of oil filler neck properly or replace the seal 2 Check signal from MAF sensor. - Connect special tool 9637. - Measure voltage at pin III/23 and ground - Switch on the ignition. 0.9 to 1.1 V. Replace MAF sensor - Start the engine. Approx. 1.4 V 3 Check exhaust system for leaks 4 Check for air leaks in intake air system 5 Check PCV valve for leaks 6 Check fuel pressure 7 Check volume supply of fuel pump 8 Fuel injectors fouled u If preceding Check Points were negative, the fuel injectors may be fouled - Clean fuel injectors (ultrasonic cleaning device) or replace them

I'm going to guess the mechanic has access to all that info as he's a porsche guy. Really wish my durametric would connect to my ecu. Interesting about exhaust leaks. My PSE exhaust system is in some serious need of TLC (or replacement) and if I was going to be keeping the car, it would be the #1 thing to do after the headlight switch. jake mentioned fuel injectors to me, bought some but haven't installed them.

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The info was meant to be fyi so you are armed with more relevant info. If your mechanic doesn't know these already, you need to run from the shop

Oh yeah, sorry - this info is appreciated. Really is. Was just saying that if this guy is as good as everyone says he is, then he's already looking at that list.

trust me, if anything, I know what to listen to when talking to mechanics. I've already had to explain a few things to garages who thought they knew how these cars worked. Sometimes it was a heated discussion and it quickly ends once I ask them how many M96 engines they've built. And yeah, it feels freggin great asking that question. lol

No worries, man. I think it's a tricky situation when you have to convey some info they don't know in a non offending manner. Sounds like youve found a great mechanic/shop though so far.

Btw, is your MAF by Bosch with the correct p/n? Also are your re-cat sensors new and from Bosch? Sorry if I missed it. It's a shame you've come this far only to be defeated by some (apparantly) air/fuel mixture issue.

everything is Bosch. Yes, correct part #'s. the new MAF made the car drive so much better, I really doubt this is a MAF issue. Everyone keeps telling me I need to tune it. Except Charles and Jake. and that's who I am listening too. Plus there's still the VERY slight hesitation when cruising in certain conditions. Why I am leaning this is still a vac leak issue.

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That's why you really need to check the idle fuel trims RKAT on each bank using Durametric. It will tell you a lot. If you see a huge imbalance between the two banks, then it's unlikely the MAF but rather something bank specific. e.g., left intake manifold gasket leak.

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yes, i believe i am in good hands. My racer/lapping buddies all recommended him. And apparently his best advise is don't buy a Porsche for a race car, so he must know them right? LOL

garage found 2 pretty significant vac leaks. one is fixed with a couple bolts and a $21 ypipe from porsche. the other is at the back on the intake manifold. going to get a quote for that and see what to do from there...

That's great news!

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This is good news. If you are happy with the results, can you tell us who you took it to? Also: I am dying to know what you think the crank/wheel HP of your setup is. I would love to 4.0 my car...turn it into a kind of 996 GTS.

Great news! Makes a lot of sense with the lean code. ​​​​​​

I was afraid you might have some trouble selling it while still throwing code. Bummer So what are the chances that once these things get resolved that you go ahead and hang on to it since the headaches will be resolved?

So hopefully the repairs will take care of the codes. Why sell it after it is good to go? Enjoy the fruits of your labor!

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Good luck getting it sorted & sold in good health! One of these days I gotta read this whole thread, lots of value here

20161110_071133_zpsgn32jyev.jpg

Wow! I wonder how that "O ring" got so damaged?...How much did the diagnosis/fix cost you? How did they find the leak, smoke, carb cleaner, etc...? Glad you got it sorted

instalation error on my part. not sure how I messed it up because I was trying to be very careful with those gaskets. the garage is Metric Auto in Ottawa. they smoke tested the engine and found the leaks that way. was about 4-5 hours labor total.

That's great news!! Looks like it's burnt? Did they find anything more than what you mentioned in post #465 and have you got the car back yet?

yes, this peice was leaking also and had to be replaced.

And I drove it home from the garage last night. There's no more hesitation at all while cruising along...only about 55km's since everything was fixed. its supposed to be nice this weekend, so I will try and get more miles on it this weekend.

Congrats. Hopefully you'll get a good problem free drive out of it this weekend and it will start to make it all worthwhile.

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I also had this piece leaking. The o-ring inside that funnel just dried up and turned into plastic. The whole piece needed to be replaced as the o-ring is not available separately. Really glad to hear you got it sorted!!

I think we need a sticky "List of small plastic parts and gaskets you should replace to avoid a ****ty experience"

"I think we need a sticky "List of small plastic parts and gaskets you should replace to avoid a ****ty experience"" ^^^And O-ring sizes/thicknesses for replacements... Seems silly that we can't just replace an o-ring, no? Do we really believe that Porsche had a custom part made for this purpose? Especially on a car that they were looking for economical (cost cutting) ways to produce...

I hope this is the end of your frustrations and ends with you having a huge smile on your face and keeping the car... This thread (and your efforts in general) = EPIC!

All these little things, equal big things. A new engine can die, or at least consume oil if things like this are present, and go without being addressed. Things like this add fuel trim, and fuel is solvent that cylinders and rings don't need to see. I am dealing with a situation similar to this now, with a shop that overlooked several things and they have an engine that is consuming more oil than they believe that it should. Its very easy to blame mechanicals, but if an engine is rich it will have all sorts of issues. I have seen a bad gas cap, bad evap, and bad purge valve all take out an engine in the past. I've even seen intake manifolds crack at the seams, and only leak when the engine is hot. That one wiped out a cylinder before it was ever found. The most common issue today is bad injectors, that not even a professional cleaning will address thoroughly. A shop in Vancouver installed a replacement engine into a customer's car after the original engine lost a cylinder. They did nothing to the injectors, and within a few hundred miles the new engine had high oil consumption. They consulted with me, and I put the puzzle together quickly, based on my own experiences. I asked for fuel trim data, and it was clear that the engine was rich in both long and short term fuel trim on bank 2. Then I asked them what cylinder failed on the old engine, and you guessed it, #5! I told the shop to change the oil back to a conventional (to give the rings a change to seal again) then clean the MAF, and replace the injectors with new ones. Further, I told them to top it off with a heavy dose of sea foam injector cleaner for a few tanks of fuel. They had the old injectors checked, and all of them were questionable, but #5 was hanging open, and had 2/3 of the volume it was supposed to have. Problem found, and a fuel injector cost the car owner a 20K engine.... This is happening more than ever before, and I believe its responsible (at least partially) for the majority of cylinder failures that we see today. These types of issues can even create low crankcase vacuum numbers (because rings aren't sealing due to excess enrichment), and that can appear to be the symptoms of a failing AOS unit. MAF and O2 codes often come from this, too, but not always (because upstream issues will throw downstream codes) and the list goes on and on. Its really simple- No intake, or crankcase leaks are acceptable. A component can leak air before it will leak oil. This means that cracked AOS vent tubes, and oil fillers won't be found, since they often suck air, but won't leak oil. If they are present the engine will always default to a rich condition, which will add excess fuel to the cylinder(s) and then you can stand by for a mechanical issue.

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this is 100% instalation error. my fault. I used all brand new gaskets on this build. but yeah...that other peice. I would have never known!

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I recently supplied the guys at www.rndeuroparts.com with all of the spreadsheets that I have for gaskets and etc for each engine designation. They plan to make O ring and seal kits from these that are based on what is needed, not what the dealer gasket set provides, which is generally too much of what you don't need, and not enough of what you do need.

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as much as I enjoyed driving it home yesterday, it wasn't enough to convince me not to sell it. it's still for sale - now without a CEL.

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​​​​​​ yes, true. I threw out half the gaskets that came with the pelican kit.

the garage also wants me to drain some oil out as it is overfilled right now and they think it's the reason for smoke on cold start up. said it looks like I am anywhere between 0.5 and 1L over filled. I'll do that tonight.

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how much oil consumption is normal? I would imagine it isn't much if any

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I think we have a winner!

car sell?

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unless his Ottawa market is far different that Toronto I think the price is too high. His ad came up a time or two in my searches. In Toronto absolute top buck in the spring for an nice c4s would be around 33k

even a nice c4s at 33k still has a long list of issues that could pop up. My engine modifications address most known failures modes and would be asking an additional 6k if you were to compare to a 33k model. if you ask me, that's a pretty sweet deal. If someone else wants to do this, they are looking at $20k+ the price of the car. I'm in over $45k here....not looking to make money but get some of it back. the car isn't sold, it's sitting in my garage. where I found a small puddle of coolant yesterday when sweeping around it....judging by the location on the floor, looks like its coming from where the coolant reservoir sits. another new part going in for the potential new owner...lol. Another afternoon in the garage taking apart something on that car. I'm in no hurry to sell. I still love driving this girl. And who knows....maybe in the spring she will give me 1 problem free season and I may consider keeping it. all I want is a nice handling & looking coupe to take to the track 3 or 4 times a year and bring my kids around town and wife on dates. it hasn't been able to do any of that without an issue coming up. I don't mind the odd repair but she's been relentless. Not having much luck with it and it's frustrating. well....I never had any luck with cars. I just traded in my 10 year old, 250 000km problem free lexus for a warrantied 2015 legacy after my wife said she wanted something newer before the lexus started to breakdown. 2015 car wouldn't start on the 1st coldest day of the year. Needed new ignition relays. good thing it has warranty! ugh. know what probably started? my 10 year old lexus. lMao.

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And those of that understand it know the value of what you've done. The problem, unfortunately, is that you have to find the combination of someone that understands/appreciates what you've done AND has the extra money over an otherwise "good enough" car. Sounds like you have the right basic attitude though where you'd like to sell, but its not the end of the world if it doesn't. Hopefully when the weather warms you two can get some much needed bonding time to make it all worthwhile

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exactly. and so far, the interest has been shown by porsche enthusiasts judging by their questions. most stop communicating after I tell them I rebuilt the motor at home, in my garage though. lol

I don't think this will be as much of an issue after a year or two and you get 6-10km on it.

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Dyno sheets might give some confidence in the rebuild.

gotten a few PM's and been asked how my car has been doing. I've done about 4000km's since the rebuild and things are going well. there's still somethings I need to fix such as the headlight switch, some noisy sway bar links, the sloppy shifter, replace trans mount, and the guibo, and the slow start when hot issue (pretty sure it's that y cable) but otherwise there has been 0 codes since fixing the vacuum leaks. The car was smoking on cold start up last year but I'm positive that was due to me overwhelming the AOS at Calabogie. I've been driving it like a decent human being for the pass 1500km or so and have had about 2 dozen cold starts with 0 smoke! Performed a single stage polish and sealed with opti gloss coat. Looks a lot better than before but she could probably use a wet sand for a show car finish. I'm hoping I can get some vids this weekend. and everything is for sale for the right price. before someone asks

See how important injectors can be to the success of a new engine? Told ya so!

I didn't change the injectors though. All I did was run a few cans of seafoam through it (as you recommended). Maybe the seafoam cleared them up??? I dont know. The new ones are still sitting in their packaging on my work bench.

Man, I feel for you. I agree with slakker, if you can get a problem free year, it probably will sell much easier. You may also just preemptively get a thorough PPI to give prospective owners some comfort. If you put it on BAT, you open yourself up to year round selling. Good luck.

Good to hear AWDguy, some well-deserved mileage! GL going forward with it. It sounds like a really fun car.

I doubt this car would move in the GTA especially how it's priced. Maybe the Ottawa valley is different for them. I think its going to be a tough sale myself or at the very least a big loss. I must say out of all the vehicles I have ever owned the potential buyers of a Porsche sure seem to know or think they know a lot more than the average guy looking for a car. To be honest I had never ever heard of a pre purchase inspection on a vehicle until I looked into buying a Porsche. I've done many on airplanes when acquiring them but never a car / truck / boat / toy etc...

There will be no $$ loss in the sale. I'm firm on price. If it doesn't move, I keep it. Really simple.

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It is. I find any excuse to go out and drive it. The more I drive it and the more days go by that I dont get CEL's, the more confident I am in the build. Blew up my fathers snowmobile 2 weeks ago, so I have another motor to build. At least this one will only costs me about $1000 in parts. lol

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Speak to us about the Seafoam... What? Why? How?

jake was thinking my injectors were getting lazy so recommended I put some cans of seafoam in the gas tank. I actually use seafoam In all my machines. I swear by it for cleaning gummed up carbs. I haven't had to clean my sleds carbs in over 4 years and that used to be a yearly thing for me. I use it in my cars and van, sleds, dirtbikes, snowblower, lawnmower...and now the porsche. I've used the version you spray into the intake while engine is running and the one you pour in the gas tank. I've only poured it in the gas tank for the porsche though.

Good to hear your engine continuous to run well. Seems quite strong correlation between aggressive driving and smoking.

yes, I certainly think there is. if I continue to track the car, I'll probably move to a motorsports AOS

Oil centered on the dipstick?

closer to the full dot than the middle. digital guage shows 2-3 bars missing. depends how long I let it sit. The garage that fixed my vac leaks did say that I had overfilled the oil. That surely doesnt help.

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What sled? I'm an avid snowmobiler! Put around 10,000 km on average on a winter!

10k? lol. Thats some serious mileage. I'm happy to put 2500km in a year. I leave my driveway and hit the trails after work and go out for an hour or 2....I might do 1, maybe 2 big trips a year. I don't have anything special. A 97 Yammy VMAX XT, and the one I blew up was my fathers, a 04 Yammy Venture 700. Thats what I am fixing right now. blew out a needle bearing on the middle rod. That was 20km into the 1 of my yearly trips for 2017. Only took my old mans sled because it has mirrors and we were on Quebec trails (you need mirrors when on their trails) for that trip.

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I've read that the dot is overfilled. The line at top is full or the line at bottom of stick is low. Jake says let it sit a minimum of 24 hours before checking oil(on stick) for full drain back.

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i can check the digital gauge 45 minutes after parking the car....its 2 bars from the BOTTOM. Check the next morning, it will be 4 bars from the TOP. Check that evening and it be 2 bars down from the top. I check the dipstick at the same time....same thing. Like clockwork. Im not obsessed or anything.

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Nice! Yes I run between New Liskard and Quebec all winter. Mostly Ville Marie and around Rouyn. We make a few trips to LASarre and Val d'Or as well. I buy new each season otherwise the km make it worthless to keep more than a year. I did keep a 2012 skidoo 1200 4 stroke, after 2 seasons it had 23,000 km on it. Never skipped a beat and changed next to no parts.

I just read your entire thread from beginning to end... what a story and really amazed by your work and efforts. You deserve some quality time with your car, more than anybody I know! Btw another good Porsche shop in Ottawa is RJ Motors... IMO. Cheers

Dead center on the stick was recommended by Jake and it works great. Pulling almost 1.5g with full slicks I never get any smoke with a regular AOS. I also follow the 24 hour rule, or at least overnight. You can check the oil on mine on the dipstick after sitting, start the car and shut it off, check again and get a lower reading. That's why I don't bother taking oil to the track unless it will be there overnight.

"Im not obsessed or anything." Totally understandable after your ordeal. The good part is that the obsession seems to have paid off!