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YOUR RESEARCHIMS Bearing Seal Removal Procedure Question
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Suggestion · Original poster
Unfortunately I won't be able to check the engine with my Durametric as it is a used 'donor' engine that I'm swapping in.
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Suggestion
I'd recommend watching the procedure outline video:
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Suggestion
You are basically going to be carrying out the procedure as if you were going to be changing the bearing, but being that the
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Hi All -
I've watched multiple videos and read tens of articles about the process of removing the IMSB seal. As you can imagine, between the variations in production years, number of chains, overkill processes and haphazard approaches there are multiple ways to do this. Thus, can anyone with answer the following with authority regarding a
2002 and later engine
?
- Do I need to lock both left and right cams? I thought I understood Jake saying in one video that you only need to lock the ones to the left of the bearing (Bank 2)
- Do both IMS chain tensioners need to be loosened or removed?
- Do I need to drain the oil prior to doing this to avoid oil pouring out of either the chain tensioners or the IMSB?
Thanks
I'd recommend watching the procedure outline video:
https://imsretrofit.com/ims-retrofit...dure-overview/
You are basically going to be carrying out the procedure as if you were going to be changing the bearing, but being that the
06-08 IMS bearing
(which I assume is what you have since you want to remove the grease seal), you don't actually remove the bearing (just the seal).
You do not need to lock both banks unless your cam timing is out (requires an extra tool which is sold for the 3-chain engines
here
), since the factory procedure only has you lock one (and the IMS Pro Tool Kit only comes with one 3-chain lock).
The only tensioner that does not need to be loosened or removed is the one under the a/c compressor, unless your cam timing is off, which will cause the IMS shaft to be pulled to one side, making it impossible to get the flange on without messing things up further. In that case, you need to fix the cam timing first, so I'd verify cam timing is ok with a Durametric before you start doing any work.
Yes, you need to drain the oil before you start this procedure. I'd just do an oil change at the same time.
Thank you Charles. This is exactly what I needed to go do this with confidence.
Unfortunately I won't be able to check the engine with my Durametric as it is a used 'donor' engine that I'm swapping in. It's only got 60K on it, and I did lock the first bank already without any issues so I'm hoping the other bank is good as well.
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