New window regulator..more noisy than before..

ok I just installed a new window regulator as my window started to creak badly when going up and down... problem is that the new regulator is in and it makes just as much noise, I'd say even more... did I break something installing it ? or is there a trick somewhere ? Before putting the window in, I moved the regulator 'unlaoded' up and down and it make a creak/crinch... noise already. I see in the box it comes with a warning about cleaning up guide and all or the regulator can be broken even at first use... I did not see any guide I could clean up so ... I wonder if I missed something.. i'll get back to it tomorrow but if someone has insider info, I am taker one more thing, anybody knows what kind of 'glue' I can use to put the moisture barrier back in place ? I am bummed that I had to remove it, it was still all nice and tight from the factory...

Is it an OEM part?

I bought the URO part :S.... I always had good luck with 'equivalent' parts, sometime better than factory..but on this one I wonder if I got a bad one ;( ...or if I did break something... I was as carefull can be to put it in, did not hear anything breaking or what not.

I bought a new old stock porsche regulator and had no problem. It doesn't make any noise. The only thing I would have done different is put some more grease on the cable and wheels. I used 3m weather strip glue for the styrofoam barrier.

I have moved the window up and down a couple of times and the cable grinding noise is gone. I am still not very excited about the fact that it was noisy in the first place but I figure I can do it again later if it fails.. about the glue used for the vapor membrane/barrier, I used a heat gun and the glue surprisingly get soft and sticky again with minor amount of heat, so I called it a day and it worked pretty good. I am really what kind of glue they use, I saw a bunch of suggestions online to use duck tape, double sided tape, spray glue, all sorts of things, but nothing coming close to the OEM glue, which seems like the best product for the job, very clean and still strong 15 years later ! Anwyays I will re-assemble tomorrow, I'll keep you posted if the initial grind noise was or was not a sign of bad part

Phil, Don't jump the gun buddy... I just changed my regulator out last month and this past week the window squeaked when raised and lowered. Mostly when going up. I thought the same thing... that being having to replace the regulator again, but I pinpointed the noise and the glass was moving against the rubber weather seals. May want to check before going through all the trouble.

I changed the fronts and rears in my Cab and adjusting the windows for perfect fit takes some time and patience... Make sure your window aligns properly with the seal at the back of the window or you will end up with separation or a clunking noise where closed door window makes impact to the car on a metal strip (at least on the Cabs). I spent some time this weekend tweaking mine... Regarding the sound/moisture membrane, it helps to be delicate when separating it for access. When I was done I just lined everything up carefully and put the door panel back on. Plenty sticky still left in the beads of adhesive material.

I need to do this job on my car, passenger side as well. The grinding sounds like the glass is cracking! Picked up a book and the procedure is way more in depth than I thought. What is the opinion on brand do go with? URO is generally best to avoid by ANY cost as from experiences with the Mercedes Benz vehicles...can only imagine the same with Porsche. I did however see something about the aftermarket being more reliable or 'added bearings' for reliability? I am new, what do I know... Chris

I used the Uro regulator - it's been fine since last April. It got plenty of use over the summer. The only caveat being, make sure you remove the 986 stop or it won't go all the way down.

Thanks Dporto, that's the type of feedback I like to learn about. While i did not study the book I have since the car is in storage for winter, I never knew about the 986 stop! Appreciate it. Chris

Ha! I learned the hard way, so if I can save someone the hassle I'm happy to do it!

the passenger window was a trial before I get to the 'more visible' driver door'. I really did not have to change the regulator, as the windows was simply loose from one of the clamp but I figured if I go through the trouble of opening the door I did not want to do it again as I see everybody has trouble with their regulator. I don't fee very good about the URO brand. I don't see why there should be any creaking on a brand new part.And they have label everywhere warning about not moving the part without installing it or clean guide and stuff or the part could fail ... seems sketchy, I would avoid them in the future. I still have another one for the driver door, I may return it and buy another brand. We'll see. Windows adjusting take a bit of time, but if you mark them like in the youtube Boxster video it fall pretty much spot on. dont forge to mark the lower anchor point as well. The nerve wrecking part is removing the door trim and the vapor barrier as anything can break quite easily. I mean all this is 15 years old plastic... I am amazed it ages so well.

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(Replying to Glossa's 1/18 post here, since there's more information in this thread.) BMW's have a LOT of window regulator problems, often due to the glass sticking to the rubber seals (especially if the windows are tinted or exposed to tree sap). The breakaway friction over-tensions the cable upon actuation, then the glass breaks free and jumps, which sends a pulse of slack cable through the system, often jumping the cable off of a pulley. Owners have had good luck improving performance and extending regulator life by lightly lubricating the glass seals with Honda Shin Etsu 08798-9013 silicone grease , which also works great on squeaky door and hatch seals. If the seals are dragging and creating noise on the 996, Shin Etsu would probably help here as well. Exactly right, thanks for letting folks know these regulators have both 986 and 996 stops.